and took it to autozone and they told me they couldn't test it because the tester for the 03 things didn't work... they were bigger than the connector under the dash in the car. i'm wondering where the diag. connector is located and if anyone has successfully had their car tested at autzone... also i am wanting to buy a bypass valve for my CAI is there a recommended store to get that from, and does anyone have a DIY on how to install it i was told you caint put it right on the MAF. thanks

also i put the CAI on aboot 3 to 4 days ago so i figured that is what is causing the CEL. would slush/snow/dirty wet roads contribute to dirtying the MAF and causing a CEL? i'm going to attempt to clean the MAF sensor and reset the ECU today or tomorrow, i was just wondering aboot the autozone and bypass valve thing

Did you reset the ECU when you installed the CAI? If not, do it.

Make sure you got the MAF in correctly. The arrows point toward the throttle body, not the filter.

I put my CAI on a couple weeks ago, and reset the ECU in the process. Not a single problem (and not a single regret, either!).

I talked to the service manager at my dealership today about the MAF. He said that the extra air flow through the MAF will throw the CEL on. I was wondering how you go about resetting the ECU? Is it a dealership thing or what?

Disconnect the battery for about a half ah hour so the power in ECU completely discharges....thus loosing its memmory. It will then adjust to the new environmental variables picked up by the MAF

Ok, the increase in air with not throw a CEL. There are plenty of people that have one and do not have a CEL, me being one of them. Reset the ECU and make sure the MAF is facing the right direction. I've taken my car into Autozone to get scanned and didn't have a problem. Have you taken your car into the dealership and had the OBDII recall done to it? That might be your problem if you havn't. If you havn't no shop except the Hyundai can scan your car.

Umm....the increase (or decrease) in air flow will certainly turn a check engine light on...hence the purpose of the MAF in the first place. Just because not everyone's comes on, doesn't mean thats not the cause.

Ok, the increase in air with not throw a CEL. There are plenty of people that have one and do not have a CEL, me being one of them. Reset the ECU and make sure the MAF is facing the right direction. I've taken my car into Autozone to get scanned and didn't have a problem. Have you taken your car into the dealership and had the OBDII recall done to it? That might be your problem if you havn't. If you havn't no shop except the Hyundai can scan your car.


what is the ODBII recall?

I've had my AEM CAI on since last November. I've not had any problems at all, never thrown a CEL. The tempratures here have varied from 70F to 15F

I would suggest checking your installation work. Make sure all the clamps are tight, the wire going to the MAF is not taught (there should be plenty of slack in it to allow it to move with the intake when the engine rocks) and that you have protected the Intake pipe going into the fender-well. I used a piece of silicone tubing, slit it along it's length and ran it around the edge of the new hole (you did make the hole bigger, no?) I used a hot glue gun to hold the tubing in place.

You also want to make sure it is pushed into the throttle body as close as you can get it. Otherwise you may have problems with the intake pipe hitting the brake booster line and cutting it from the inside out. I've not had any problems with the brake booster (knock on wood).

Hope this helps.

Pilot

The MAF will throw a CEL if you are running a s/c setup with enough boost. I think NextGen was having issues with it flowing way to much air than the MAF could handle

ok first of all to reset ecu,
-disconnect the negative battery lead,and let it sit for about 20 minutes or so.

2,the bypass valve i would just recommend going to your local auto store and purchasing a AEM bypass valave.it shouldnt take long to get,they might even have it in stock,but not likely.
3, Dont purchase a AEM intake,you can use the bypass valve from AEM for the injen intake. AEM will cause you so many damn problems,throwing cells, coming loose,and cutting your brake booster line.

ok first of all to reset ecu,
-disconnect the negative battery lead,and let it sit for about 20 minutes or so.

2,the bypass valve i would just recommend going to your local auto store and purchasing a AEM bypass valave.it shouldnt take long to get,they might even have it in stock,but not likely.
3, Dont purchase a AEM intake,you can use the bypass valve from AEM for the injen intake. AEM will cause you so many damn problems,throwing cells, coming loose,and cutting your brake booster line.
Dude, everyone needs to stop knocking the AEM unit. I think maybe one or two people who probably were incompetent to be installing even a simple CAI messed up, and messed up their brake booster. When installing stuff like an intake, you should always check to make sure that it isnt rubbing on anything.

As far as the CEL's, the Injen will do the same thing. I also don't know where you are coming up with this whole coming loose thing. AEM is just as respectable of a company, and from what I have seen on my AEM unit, it is high quality stuff.

I am just getting sick of everyone trashing a quality company that makes a nice unit for our cars. Don't be ripping on something you haven't tried.

Ummm, on resetting the ECU, just pull the two ECU fuses in the engine bay and then reinsert them. That way, the only power you're killing is to the ECU not your radio.

Concerning the AEM CAI, the brake booster vacuum line sits a bit high, push it down. The reducer coupler on the AEM is straight so it tends to push the first inlet pipe directly over the brake booster vacuum line (whereas on the Injen I think the reducer has a small bend to angle the inlet pipe away from the vacuum line). Also, push the first inlet pipe all the way into the reducer, this will give you a little more clearance. Another also, don't tighten anything until you have everything connected together. You should be able to adjust the angle of the inlet pipe so that you have at least 3/4" (I have about 1") clearance from the vacuum line. The real problem is not the vacuum line itself but the little metal nipple (yeah, I know, I said "nipple") sits a bit high and the motion of the inlet pipe bumping against the hose may cause the nipple to cut into the hose from the inside. I think some people here have actually cut the nipple down a bit (I haven't done this yet). So far, I don't have any wear marks on the vacuum hose, so I know the inlet pipe hasn't been bumping it (I think).

alright i'll work on this stuff either tonight or tomorrow before i go to the chicago autoshow... i caint wait for that... i hope it fixes it though... i followed the instructions when i did the install everything is together and there really isn't even any rubbing on the brake booster that i can tell right now...

so the hole the pipe goes through into the fender where the filter goes on... you padded that? is that to reduce rubbing or damaging the pipe? cause sometimes i THINK i hear some vibrations, but i know the hole is plenty big enough...

Im not trashing AEM,they do have alot of great products. And I know several people with the AEM CAI on there tibs,and they drive like grandma's,so they dont have to worry about it. I am ASE certified,so it's not like a big mess up. It's just alot easier going with the injen intake then AEM,but i would rather switch back to the AEM because it does have alot better sound to it then injen,at least on my vehicle. DEpending on knowledge,if you don't know to much about cars,i would just recommend AEM. if you do know your way around the car,then i would recommend AEM with some adjustments.

Some adjustments like what?

what i meant about adjustments is the fact that sometimes the AEM cai hits the brake booster line.you h ave to bend the tube,or cut the brake tube down some,or try and fix the cai so it doesnt hit that line.and you also have to make sure your MAF sensor has no tension on it,because when you hit the gas that could cause it to throw a cel

yeah pad around the new hole you made or you'll get a banging noise everytime the engine rocks.

Mine doesnt rub the brake line, or bang the hole when you rev the engine. I cwatched it while revving it in park

i went to the local hardware store and bought some of that sticky foam used to insulate doors and windows. and i stuck that around the hole that had to be cut for the intake pipe. because before i bolted the intake down it would bounce on that metal,and make a nasty sound.

a big problem i found with my cai. is somehow there was oil in side of there. like i took the tubes apart to do some cleaning and i found streaks of oil what looks like regular engine oil....scared the crap out of me, got alota stalls and cels but then after cleaning out the crap nada....i donno how the heck oil got in there but it did

a big problem i found with my cai. is somehow there was oil in side of there. like i took the tubes apart to do some cleaning and i found streaks of oil what looks like regular engine oil....scared the crap out of me, got alota stalls and cels but then after cleaning out the crap nada....i donno how the heck oil got in there but it did

perhaps the oil's from the filter cleaning kit. if you overspray filter oil too much, it'll cause some problems with MAF...in that case, you can use some q-tips to clean the sensor

I would assume that the oil is moreso from the crankcase ventilation (the hose that connects from the head to the CAI). As extra pressure builds up in the crankcase, that hose is there to vent the built up gases back into the combustion chamber. These gases can contain trace amounts of oil.
That's why I plugged the hole on my CAI and attached a breather filter to the head :)