DIY: 2.7L Spark Plug Replacement [Archive] - New Tiburon Forum : Hyundai Tiburon Forums

: DIY: 2.7L Spark Plug Replacement


caconman424
04-25-2010, 03:31 PM
This DIY was created by eclark53520. I am simply posting this in the DIY section so it is easy to find. Thank you eclark.

Tools Needed:
3/8" Ratchet
Extension(I recommend a 6 inch)
10mm Socket
12mm Socket
5/8" Spark Plug Socket

Recommended plugs for the 2.7L are Champion RC10YC4 and NGK PFR5N-11

Step 1: Remove plastic engine cover(Hint: Pop off the silver inserts and H sign to get to the bolts holding it on)

Step 2: Remove intake hose between MAF sensor and throttle body(Use steps 11-17 in this DIY for help if you are unsure on how to do this: http://newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150273 )

Step 3: Remove throttle body(DIY posted here: http://newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1761 )

Step 4: Remove upper intake manifold(DIY posted here: http://newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1760 )

Step 5: Measure and gap all your new plugs. I use a .044 gap I believe. Recommended gap is 0.039~0.043 in. or 1.0~1.1 mm

Step 6: Pull black boot off of spark plug and out of the plug well

Step 7: Use 5/8" plug socket, extension, and ratchet to remove the spark plug

Step 8: Apply anti-seize to the threads on the new spark plugs to prevent damage to the aluminum heads.

Step 9: Guide the new spark plug into the plug socket. Using the extension, lower the new plug into position, being careful not to damage the ceramic insulator. Use your hands NOT the ratchet to get the plug started in its threads. You do this because you don't want to cross thread it. If it doesn't go in relatively easy for the first few turns remove and try again.

Step 10: Use the ratchet to tighten the plug firmly. Do not over-tighten, as this can cause cause you to damage the threads in the cylinder head. Torque wrench specs are 18-21 ft/lbs.

Step 11: Apply dielectric grease to the plug wires to prevent any possible damage.

Step 12: Replace spark plug boot onto spark plug. Make sure it snaps into place and can't fall or pop off.


Note: It's recommended you replace your throttle body and intake manifold gaskets, but unless you notice any cracks, chips, damage, etc., you will be fine to reuse the ones you have.

Here is my contribution:
It is not necessary to completely remove the throttle body from the engine. Simply unbolt the two bolts and the two nuts that connect it to the manifold. The throttle body will just hang there after the manifold itself is removed.

GeneralDuke
04-28-2010, 08:56 AM
Revised, approved, and moved.

Thanks

Trinity83
05-11-2010, 01:45 PM
Awesome DIY! This is going to be my first time changing the plugs and wires on a car, ever. I not worried about it, seems simple, but time consuming. About how long should it take from start to finish? The local shop says it calls for over 6 hours of labor...That's why I am going to do it! :) Doesn't matter if it takes me days, I will save money...I was just curious what the average time scale was though. Thanks!

GeneralDuke
05-11-2010, 02:04 PM
Awesome DIY! This is going to be my first time changing the plugs and wires on a car, ever. I not worried about it, seems simple, but time consuming. About how long should it take from start to finish? The local shop says it calls for over 6 hours of labor...That's why I am going to do it! :) Doesn't matter if it takes me days, I will save money...I was just curious what the average time scale was though. Thanks!

Takes me an hour to an hour and a half. But I'll assume you haven't ever taken off your IM or TB. You should leave yourself a few hours to get it done. It's not a hard job at all.

caconman424
05-11-2010, 09:00 PM
Ya the only hard part is pulling off the intake manifold. Just a bunch of hard to reach bolts and nuts. Plus there is DIY all of this site for taking it off. everything else is cake

SharkBitten
05-11-2010, 09:28 PM
Ya the only hard part is pulling off the intake manifold. Just a bunch of hard to reach bolts and nuts. Plus there is DIY all of this site for taking it off. everything else is cake

Yup....and making sure everything is back together right and torqued down. lol...long story.

caconman424
05-11-2010, 09:40 PM
Yup....and making sure everything is back together right and torqued down. lol...long story.

ooh do tell. i have time :)

Trinity83
05-13-2010, 01:18 PM
Well, it took me an hour to get the intake off...I know that I'll be able to put it on in half the time since I know what I am doing now... :)

Trinity83
05-13-2010, 01:47 PM
Sooo...how in the world are we supposed to hand tighten the spark plugs all the way down the well? Also, I am using the 5/8 socket with the extension and I got the plugs loosened, but they won't come up...What's another way to get them up without damaging anything?

dlanes
05-13-2010, 01:53 PM
You should add that the thread for the spark plugs needs anti-seize so you don't ruin the aluminum heads and di electric grease so you don't ruin the plug wires.

Trinity83
05-13-2010, 02:04 PM
Hehe, just ignore me...I'm still a noob...Figured it all out. :)

caconman424
05-13-2010, 02:16 PM
did you use a spark plug socket?

Trinity83
05-13-2010, 04:34 PM
Yes, I did. My wrench was probably older than my father though...Once I changed it out to a newer one, it worked beautifully.

Doomsday Postcard
05-13-2010, 04:43 PM
You should add that the thread for the spark plugs needs anti-seize so you don't ruin the aluminum heads and di electric grease so you don't ruin the plug wires.


very good advice right there! i made the mistake of not doing that on my first car and i had to rip the plug wires off the next time and the contacts were stuck on the end of the spark plug!!! lol

peachferrari
05-13-2010, 05:30 PM
Nice--this will help when I get around to needing it.

Just a couple of things--definitely use anti-seize as stated above. You really don't want to have cylinder head problems down the road. I wasn't aware that di-electric grease was necessary, good tip.

A tip for getting the new ones started--you can go to a hardware store and buy some rubber tubing just big enough to grip the tip of the plug, then lower it down into the cylinder head using the tubing and get it started in the threads. That way there's no way to get enough torque on the plug to cross thread it. Although I've only done plugs on a 4-cyl and it might be a little more difficult to get the plug lined up since the V6 isn't vertical but on an angle.

Also, I really wouldn't recommend Champion plugs. My bro worked on small engines for several years and he always told me they were junk. Unless something has changed in the last couple of years I'd stick with the NGKs or another high-quality brand.

bulletguy
05-19-2010, 11:20 AM
Great DIY !!!
Boosted my confidence and knowledge 100X times

I referred this DIY to perform spark plug replacement and valve cover gasket replacement. It was a piece of cake, but screwed up badly at the end. I need your help in below mentioned problems.

1. I over tightened screws of valve cover gasket and broke two of them. . Right now there is no oil leaks. Is it fine to drive car with two screws off the valve cover?

2. What do I need to remove broker screws? Threads of screw are in lower portion of valve cover. What are the tools required to perform the fix.

3. I used Bosch iridium spark plug. After replacing spark plug, I can hear some ticking sound from engine. Is it the sound of spark? Or is it fuel injector making sound. I'm not sure if I had same sound in engine earlier. Any pointer in finding source of this sound will be helpful.

Thanks,
Bulletguy.

caconman424
05-19-2010, 12:12 PM
Idk much about repairing broken screws. I'd probably say maybe invest in getting a new Lower intake manifold. So in other words, replace the valve that the screws are in with a new one. You can find them on here for fairly cheap. Sorry to hear tho man :/

TibbyTurnedTuscani
05-19-2010, 12:14 PM
Bullet guy.... did you gap your plugs correctly? Did you make sure all the plug wires were back in the correct locations and all pushed on tightly?

As for the screws you broke, can you provide a pic so we can see it exactly?

heratik
05-19-2010, 12:30 PM
@bulletguy -- If you broke off a bolt that holds your valve covers, you will need to (carefully) drill the bolt out, possibly rethread, and stick another bolt in there. I would not advise leaving it as is...you will likely have a leak in a very short amount of time.

bulletguy
05-19-2010, 04:59 PM
Thanks for your reply.
The plugs I have are not gappable. It has fixed gap.
Bolts I broke are on two opposite ends. I drove almost 120 miles after the job, still no oil leaks. Here is description of screws I broke. (will try to post pic and video if I get some camera to do it)
* * *
* |*|
|*| * *
I'm going to use drill and screw extractor bit to take out screw this weekend. Fortunately I used anti sieze compound on screws, so I think it will be easy to remove it.

Regarding sound. It still persists. Here are few things I suspect.

1. While removing two coolant hose, I heard loud sound (preassure or vaccum) and some of greenish liquid (may be coolant and quantity around 2 tbsp) spilled out. Do I have to do anything with coolant vaccum/preassure after performing this job?
2. I was bit scared after breaking two screws. So I did not over tightened the spark plugs, but it was tightened enough that you need tools to take it out. I believe if spark plug is loose I'd hear loud noise and some smoke/fuel seeping out from spark plug bed. correct?
3. I found that the sound comes continuously and it is not increasing with accelerating, so probably its not related to engine.
4. I can hear sound more loud near fuel injector (near driver side) and less loud on passenger side.
5. While reassembling everything by mistake I changed wiring order of spark plugs and it misfired. Immediately after couple of tries I stopped engine and corrected the order. Can it have any impact on my current problem?
6. Can bosch platinium iridium fusion spark plugs be loud enough to be audible. boschautoparts. com/sparkplugs/Pages/PlatinumIrFusion.aspx

bulletguy
05-19-2010, 05:02 PM
----&---------&-----------&
&------------------------------|&|
---|&|---------&-----------&

|&| - broken bolt/screws

shark tales
05-19-2010, 05:15 PM
what are tq specs for the spark plugs.

bulletguy
05-19-2010, 06:40 PM
My car is Hyundai sonata 2003 V6 LX model.

Specification of sparkplug from autozone.com, from where I purchased it

Weight: 0.1 lbs
Thread Size: M14 x 1.25
Resistor: Yes
Center Electrode Core: Platinum and iridium
Insulator Type: Pyranit
Ground Electrode Material: Nickel-yttrium
Thread Reach: 0.750 in. (19.00 mm.)
Seat Type: Gasket

bulletguy
05-20-2010, 02:20 PM
Any help on the subject?
I was recommended these plugs by autozone.

bulletguy
05-24-2010, 02:55 PM
I removed that broken screw using drill and screw extractor. Because broken bolt had anti seize it was easy to remove it. In the process broke two drill bits :)

Sealed valve cover properly again with proper application of Gasket maker. Now cars runs more smooth and powerful. It either because of lousy job first time or the broken bolts, my car was not running with full power.

I got two new bolts from hyundai dealership at 50cents each. Those bolts are not available in autoparts store.

TibbyTurnedTuscani
05-24-2010, 04:22 PM
Glad to hear its all back up and running. :) I love how you said above though that the removal of the broken screws was easy, and then followed it up with "broke two drill bits getting them out".... hehe ;)

bulletguy
05-27-2010, 03:20 PM
Glad to hear its all back up and running. :) I love how you said above though that the removal of the broken screws was easy, and then followed it up with "broke two drill bits getting them out".... hehe ;)

I didn't want to discourage others to give it a try :)
But I enjoyed the process. Good result was byproduct :)
I've one more question. I don't have torque wrench and so not sure how well I torqued spark plugs and valve cover. But I tightened both of them to an extent that its not possible to tighten or remove it with one hand. Will it be fine???
What can be problem of over tightening spark plugs and valve cover. (especially spark plugs).

caconman424
05-27-2010, 10:38 PM
I didn't want to discourage others to give it a try :)
But I enjoyed the process. Good result was byproduct :)
I've one more question. I don't have torque wrench and so not sure how well I torqued spark plugs and valve cover. But I tightened both of them to an extent that its not possible to tighten or remove it with one hand. Will it be fine???
What can be problem of over tightening spark plugs and valve cover. (especially spark plugs).

i dont know the answer to this either. I just tightened them by hand and so far no troubles but idk down the line...

GeneralDuke
05-27-2010, 10:53 PM
18-21 ft/lbs

dwillarng
05-30-2010, 09:25 PM
Ok, I am not to mechanically inclined but I attempted to follow this DIY to change my plugs and wires. I thought I followed everything step by step but I have a problem. When I completed every thing and went to turn on my car it had trouble turning over. It will crank up for a second then stall. Also when i crank it their is a high pitched squeeling noise. I used NGK spark plugs and some higher grade wires, not factory. I did not change out the gaskests, they looked in good condition. Any ideas what i missed.

caconman424
05-30-2010, 10:53 PM
Ok, I am not to mechanically inclined but I attempted to follow this DIY to change my plugs and wires. I thought I followed everything step by step but I have a problem. When I completed every thing and went to turn on my car it had trouble turning over. It will crank up for a second then stall. Also when i crank it their is a high pitched squeeling noise. I used NGK spark plugs and some higher grade wires, not factory. I did not change out the gaskests, they looked in good condition. Any ideas what i missed.

Sounds like one of them is missing the fire

dwillarng
05-30-2010, 11:14 PM
would that have something to do with the firing order.

caconman424
05-30-2010, 11:41 PM
would that have something to do with the firing order.

Dont have one screwed in enough or correctly or one is damaged

dwillarng
05-31-2010, 02:13 PM
Dont have one screwed in enough or correctly or one is damaged

I went back and tightened them some more, and put back on the OEM wires, still have the same problem. I noticed when i tried to crank it this time their was a lot of exhaust smoke. It also sounded like it back fired.

Is their any way to check the plugs for damage?

herbtea
05-31-2010, 02:59 PM
Be sure the wires are fully connected to the plugs. Make sure none of the plugs are damaged. Be sure you have no vaccum leaks from the intake manifold. Lastly be sure you have the wires in the correct order.

dlanes
06-11-2010, 12:08 PM
You should add that the thread for the spark plugs needs anti-seize so you don't ruin the aluminum heads and di electric grease so you don't ruin the plug wires.

Do not skip this step...This needs to be added to DIY unless you like doing thread inserts or buying heads.

caconman424
06-11-2010, 04:03 PM
Do not skip this step...This needs to be added to DIY unless you like doing thread inserts or buying heads.

i cant edit the OP. Mod will have to

shark tales
06-11-2010, 04:27 PM
18-21 ft/lbs

thanks you!!

bulletguy
06-16-2010, 01:55 AM
18-21 ft/lbs

Car is running fine, but I observed following glitches.

1. After putting 1000 miles on it I feel that car is losing power on accelerating. I mean acceleration is not as powerful and responsive as it was earlier.
2. Mileage dropped drastically. It now gives only 20 mpg in city. It used to give me 25 earlier.
3. Car runs smooth as such, but there is some ticking noise at low rpm. Either its coming from rear cylinders or intake manifold.

Any help in diagnosing further will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Bulletguy.

Bluerd2
06-20-2010, 08:57 PM
Changed my spark plugs today.

Just changed the plugs, the wires looked fine to me.

It was my first time changing the plugs on this car. And I slightly underestimated it.
I didnt fully take off the throttle body, just enough so I could slide it out of the way.

The front bank plugs were very easy to change, but some how the plugs were in worse condition than the rears.

The back manifold bolts SUCKED to take off!
I used antiseize on the plugs and put everything back.

Some how I placed the Tb back on wrong and caused a big vacuum leak. Car turned over then died. After a brief panic I found the problem and fixed it.

All is good now. This thread helped alot.

THANKS!

CarlCarlson
06-28-2010, 10:22 PM
I just did plugs and wires with my buddy, took 2 hours with working in the dark... omg i'm amazed at the difference it makes

Blackmamba1628
06-30-2010, 06:52 PM
Thanks for this diy got mine done in less than 2 hours. only thing that was hard is the bolts on the back of the intake manifold. its a pain in the *** to get too!!! just an added tip it helps if u mark your plugs so you dont criss cross them.

mir
07-15-2010, 11:38 PM
First I want to say thanks for this DIY... made it an overall simple and straightforward process. Used NGM Iridium IX plugs and NGM wires and installed a new intake manifold gasket. Car runs great, definitely seems to be more responsive and pull harder. One question I have is about the ticking someone mentioned above. I also hear a slight ticking sound after the car warms up. I compared it to my bother's Tiburon, and his also seems to make some amount of ticking. I guess this is normal?

redtib06
07-18-2010, 02:09 AM
Sooo...how in the world are we supposed to hand tighten the spark plugs all the way down the well? Also, I am using the 5/8 socket with the extension and I got the plugs loosened, but they won't come up...What's another way to get them up without damaging anything?

For like $8 I got a 5/8 spark plug socket with strong magnet on it. It was a 3/8th drive and worked like a champ. I also had to use a 6" extension with angle/swivel action. With some of the anti-seize lube on the threads, each plug went in nice and smoothe.

Great DiY! Some of the pictures didn't look like my 2.7 setup for some reason, but got her done. Some of the 10mm and 12mm bolts on the back of the UPPER intake manifold were a PITA to get at. Be patient. *Hint* Helps if you have a nice assortment of socket extensions.

I ended up doing new wires and the baller status NGK Laser cut Platinum Iridium plugs. After 75k (I know ... I fail) my OEM plugs were pretty much flat and tipless. I think only 2 of them had 'somewhat' of a tip left. These plugs made a HUGE improvement. Can't say that the wires made a huge difference because I did both at the same time, but my throttle response seems worlds better and I can feel a pretty fair gain in power.

Thanks!

Mhockey9090
07-22-2010, 08:25 AM
Do i have to take off my upper and lower manifolds, throttle body and all that other stuff to change out spark plugs on a 2004 I4 ?

caconman424
07-22-2010, 10:24 AM
Do i have to take off my upper and lower manifolds, throttle body and all that other stuff to change out spark plugs on a 2004 I4 ?

I dont think you have a lower intake throttle body. Could be wrong tho. But to answer your question, no. i4 are very basic to change plugs on.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/berky325/P1000634.jpg

see the wires running on top of the engine? each one is connected to a plug. Make sense?

redtib06
07-23-2010, 01:16 AM
I dont think you have a lower intake throttle body. Could be wrong tho. But to answer your question, no. i4 are very basic to change plugs on.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/berky325/P1000634.jpg

see the wires running on top of the engine? each one is connected to a plug. Make sense?

For this reason alone, I almost wish I had an i4. I'm sure next time will go easier now that I've got some experience on my belt doing plugs on the v6, but removing intake, throttle body, and upper manifold sure was time consuming on my first run. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but it still took me about 3 hours and 5 beers.:3_lurk:

JP Sonata
07-27-2010, 09:27 PM
How do I unclip the sensor that is located to the left of the accelerator linkage on the upper rear intake manifold? There doesn't seem to be a push-pin as on the throttle body sensors. This is for an 03 2.7 Sonata.

bblackmoor
07-27-2010, 10:18 PM
How often do spark plugs need to be changed? Is it part of the regular dealer service?

BramptonTib
10-21-2010, 09:22 PM
Question regarding removal of the upper intake manifold. In the directions it indicates to remove the fuel line from the fuel pressure regulator. Then to remove the vacuum line (gray with red strip).

My question is do I really need to remove the fuel line? Or can just the gray w/ red strip vacuum line be removed from the manifold. Guess I'm just wondering if not removing the fuel line would cause a problem when removing the vacuum line. Just seems like an extra step if I'm just changing plugs and wires, and not touching the fuel rail.

caconman424
10-21-2010, 10:03 PM
Question regarding removal of the upper intake manifold. In the directions it indicates to remove the fuel line from the fuel pressure regulator. Then to remove the vacuum line (gray with red strip).

My question is do I really need to remove the fuel line? Or can just the gray w/ red strip vacuum line be removed from the manifold. Guess I'm just wondering if not removing the fuel line would cause a problem when removing the vacuum line. Just seems like an extra step if I'm just changing plugs and wires, and not touching the fuel rail.

fuel rail do not need to be touched. just the vacuum line to the fpr.

BramptonTib
11-17-2010, 02:16 PM
Related to removal of the Throttle Body. If just doing the spark plugs, I guess there are 2 options regarding the throttle body. Unbolt it from the Upper Intake Manifold and just let it hang (as suggested), or unhook everything connected to the throttle body, and just leave it bolted to the upper intake manifold and remove them both as one piece (or is that not possible).

If both are possible, just wondering which method people feel is easy. I'm thinking if the bolts connecting the TB to the IM are easy to remove, then probably just letting it hang is easiest, so you don't have to remove the coolant lines etc. But if the bolts are tough to remove, maybe just leaving it connected would be better, would also mean not having to touch the gasket between the 2.

caconman424
11-17-2010, 02:20 PM
Related to removal of the Throttle Body. If just doing the spark plugs, I guess there are 2 options regarding the throttle body. Unbolt it from the Upper Intake Manifold and just let it hang (as suggested), or unhook everything connected to the throttle body, and just leave it bolted to the upper intake manifold and remove them both as one piece (or is that not possible).

If both are possible, just wondering which method people feel is easy. I'm thinking if the bolts connecting the TB to the IM are easy to remove, then probably just letting it hang is easiest, so you don't have to remove the coolant lines etc. But if the bolts are tough to remove, maybe just leaving it connected would be better, would also mean not having to touch the gasket between the 2.

4 bolts and being gentle with a gasket vs unplugging sensors, coolant lines, ect.

I'd go with the bolts any day.

BramptonTib
11-17-2010, 05:02 PM
Thanks Canonman for the quick reply. I definitely agree, just wasn't sure if the bolt were tough to remove. So are the throttle cables really the only thing you needed to remove from the throttle body? Just to give easier access to the bolts at the back of the IM

caconman424
11-17-2010, 10:45 PM
Thanks Canonman for the quick reply. I definitely agree, just wasn't sure if the bolt were tough to remove. So are the throttle cables really the only thing you needed to remove from the throttle body? Just to give easier access to the bolts at the back of the IM

No problem. Just loosen the screws to the throttle cables on the bracket on the back of the IM. They come right off and no need to pull them off the throttle body

hamrhead
11-21-2010, 01:41 PM
piece of cake, im useing the nology hot wires with the nology silver plugs, works great !!!

mart88
04-28-2011, 03:57 PM
Thanks to this site i just changed my spark plugs myself, using bosch super 4 wanted to use NGK ones but Harford only had those.
Took me about 2hours i say with references with picture diagram from the site.
The plastic hoops (head gasket??) under the inlet manifold seem fine so placed back after changed the spark plugs.
I had some carburettor injector cleaner and sprayed in the inlet manifold and air intake to clean it.
After shrewing every bolts back, i started the car the inigition.

I test drive the car i can feel the better acceleration response and more power.
:3_shiny:

03blutibby
08-08-2011, 07:03 PM
How exactly do you gap your plugs? Sorry this is my first time doing this. Also, how would i replace the wires, because i am trying to replace both the plugs and wires at the same time. Is there another DIY for it?

caconman424
08-08-2011, 07:18 PM
How exactly do you gap your plugs? Sorry this is my first time doing this. Also, how would i replace the wires, because i am trying to replace both the plugs and wires at the same time. Is there another DIY for it?

You use a special tool. Look up spark plug gap tool in google and it will give you an idea how it looks and how to use it. The wires are plugged into the spark plug themselves. You can't access the sparkl plugs without removing the wires. Judging from your questions, I might recommend having a shop do it for you to avoid any mistakes.

03blutibby
08-09-2011, 03:59 AM
Oh okay thanks for your help man!

mattfd69
02-27-2012, 03:03 PM
Just completed this task as written and I have to extend my thanks to the original authors. I was quoted about $400 bucks to have this done and decided to DIMyself....couldn't be happier. I spent just over a hundred on materials (NGK Wires and NGK Laser Iridium Plugs). I had 113,500 miles on the original set of plugs and I can't even begin to describe what a difference this has made. Thanks again!:3_pimatyo

caconman424
02-27-2012, 09:41 PM
Just completed this task as written and I have to extend my thanks to the original authors. I was quoted about $400 bucks to have this done and decided to DIMyself....couldn't be happier. I spent just over a hundred on materials (NGK Wires and NGK Laser Iridium Plugs). I had 113,500 miles on the original set of plugs and I can't even begin to describe what a difference this has made. Thanks again!:3_pimatyo

Glad to help!

Mckenna04
03-22-2012, 08:28 PM
Been looking to change mine. Thank you.

colombianSeV6
06-14-2012, 03:28 PM
Hey guys I kinda need some help with my car. well to start it off, I have a 2007 v6 and i followed the instructions on how to remove throttle body and upper intake manifold, and the reason why was I wanted to remove my old spark plugs which I did. I even put it in to lbs per torque with my torque wrench. I left it at 21 lbs which is reasonable i believe. then I put everything back together the way it was, then once i turned my car on it turned on, but it turned off 5 seconds after, then I did it again to make sure and again it happen it also made this loud squeeze noise which I cant figure out where it came from. So anyone please help!

bblackmoor
06-14-2012, 03:46 PM
That's scary. Good luck.

colombianSeV6
06-14-2012, 05:47 PM
Anyone please help me as soon as possible

colombianSeV6
06-15-2012, 07:36 AM
Nvm. I got it.

bblackmoor
06-15-2012, 12:28 PM
Nvm. I got it.

How did you fix it?

SeanJ
06-16-2012, 10:46 PM
Thanks for the DIY! It helped a lot.

ps: make sure your throttle body gasket is in good condition or it will blow.... good experience though haha :P

GT Racer
08-16-2012, 06:56 PM
When should the wires be replaced, i know the spark plugs should be around 60k, should I just go ahead and do the wires at 60K as well,while im diggin around?

bblackmoor
08-16-2012, 07:08 PM
I would, but I'm like that.

svtspeed
10-01-2012, 10:49 AM
For the guys looking at this for the first time:
My thoughts after doing the job:

the DIY for removing the Intake manifold (IM) is good but also overkill for replacing the plugs/wires. Many things don't need to be removed. The IM just needs to be moved out of the way not completely removed.

1. leave the throttle body alone, it isn't necessary to remove. Just take the cable braket off of the intake manifold.
Then place a piece of 2x4 under the manifold to keep it away. To get to spark plug # 5 you will have to lift the manifold up for a short while. I never completely removed the manifold just kept moving it as I needed to.

2. make sure when reinstalling the throttle cable bracket, you leave some slack in the tb cable. if the cable is tight the engine will rev high all the time and inconsistantely. the small bracket bends easily so you might tighten up the cable without meaning to.

3. to get to the middle bolt holding the IM to the rear bracket you should remove the tb cable braket, the one that the wire harness is attached to. Now you can move the little bracket to the firewall and access to the middle bolt is easier. You can't see the bolt so feel for it.

4. replace the intake gasket, don't be cheap it's under 10 bucks

Use the DIY for removing the IM but use common sense to determine what you don't have to remove just to gain access to the plugs.

xgeniusx
03-06-2014, 09:16 PM
Just changed my plugs today, and I found out something that may or may not be useful. I didn't fully take off the UIM, just popped it off and tilted it enough to get a socket on the back 3 plugs. I'll list what I did below

first I unhooked my CAI from the throttle body
pulled out the 2 plugs to the TB
pulled off the hoses listed in the IM removal DIY link above (DO NOT pull the fuel hose, it's not needed)
unbolted the 4 main bolts holding the TB and pulled it off the IM and leaned it aside
Then unbolted the IM main bolts top, and back
then you can just lean the IM back towards thr windshield and replace the plugs. Seemed easier to me

Jam806
04-05-2014, 05:33 PM
Thanks for this DIY. Finally got around to changing my plugs and wires yesterday. It was pretty straightforward and easy. The old plugs I'm guessing were originals from 2005 with 125k miles on them. They look rough to say the least and the gap on them was 2x to 3x what they should have been. Would definitely explain the hesitation issues I've had for a while now.
Left the new NGK Iridium IXs gapped to .039 and installed NGK wires. Can most definitely feel an increase in power and throttle response.

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