I am sure this topic has been brought up before on the old site, but i haven't seen it here. So which oil does everyone choose to use? What is the factory oil? I am going to give my tib its first oil change this weekend when it hits 1000 miles. Also what filter should i use??

good question. ive been wanting to do my own oil changes so it would be nice to know what kind of oil is best.

I've been using Amsoil 10w30 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter, with the hyundai oil filter since about 16,000 miles. 57,000 miles now and still running great!

I just bought 12quarts of 10w30 royal purple oil off of ebay for 65 bucks.

I just bought 12quarts of 10w30 royal purple oil off of ebay for 65 bucks.

that sounds like some pretty expensive oil....

Royal purple is good stuff. I have been using AMsoil 10w30 but from what I have been reading it appears it is not a true synthetic. I think the only true synthetic is the 20w50 in Amsoil. I really don't like the idea of using that heavy of a weight so I may be switching to royal purple.

Royal Purple is pretty expensive, but it's good stuff. I always ran AMSOIL 10w-30 with a Hyundai filter in my Tib. If you know someone that's a preferred customer with an AMSOIL dealer you can get a case for around $60 I paid $58.95 for that last case I bought.

that sounds like some pretty expensive oil....
You get what you pay for.

AMSOIL 10W30. Hyundai OEM oil filter. No problems. Don't expect any either. Drained oil still looks clean when I change the oil.

Where can I get hyundai oil filters?

Hmmm, lemme think, at your dealer!

mobile one full syn 10w30 and oem filter

Mobile 1 10w30 with new oil filter (can't remember the brand).

Royal purple is good stuff. I have been using AMsoil 10w30 but from what I have been reading it appears it is not a true synthetic. I think the only true synthetic is the 20w50 in Amsoil. I really don't like the idea of using that heavy of a weight so I may be switching to royal purple.

The only AMSOIL that is not a TRUE synthetic is the XL-7500 series.

All the others (standard and Series 2000/Series 3000 etc) is full synthetic. Standard has a 15,000 mile drain interval, Series 2000 has a 25,000 mile drain interval, and the XL-7500 has a...you guessed it, 7500 mile drain interval.

Myself, I'm using the Series 2000 0w-30 with a filter change at 6000 km (about 4500 miles) and a complete change at 12000 km (about 9000 miles)

It isn't cheap, but like Solo2 said...you get what you pay for. Time and time again, in many 3rd party tests, nothing has outperformed AMSOIL Series 2000

Hmm... Dont know where you got the "not true synthetic" comment from. I spoke with the techs at AMSOIL and they said they use the same oil for the xl-7500 as the 2000 series and regular synthetic oils. It is just the additives that make t different.

Originally quoted from Studandthensome on the old message forum


Amsoil XL-7500 is a synthetic group III product. Up until recently, these oils were not even classified as synthetic.


Lubricants based on Group III base oils are expected to see the fastest growth through 2006, driven primarily by cost as these basestocks can provide similar performance properties at less cost than other synthetic bases.


The Info Shop

The basestock is the main lubricating part of the oil.
basestock + additives = a bottle of motor oil


In 1999, the National Advertising Division of the Council of Better Business Bureaus ruled in Mobil Oil’s challenge that Castrol’s “advertisements inaccurately represented that the current formulation of Syntec is synthetic”. Mobil’s position was “true synthetics had to be formulated from small molecules subject to a chemical reaction, not built from natural petroleum”. Castrol uses a “hydroprocessed mineral oil” (a Group III base stock) as the base stock in their Castrol Syntec. Previously, synthetic oil was accepted to mean the base stock was not conventional petroleum oil, regardless of refining process. This ruling changed all that.

Pecuniary, Inc.


It was this ruling by a moron that caused group III oils, that are in fact highly refined conventional oils, to be classified as synthetic. Also, notice who made the ruling, an advertising council. These idiots don't specialize in petrolium or lubrication. They are in essence allowing special conventional to be "advertised" as synthetic. So, you are right and wrong. You are right that it is classified as a synthetic, but you are wrong because it is not a synthesized base stock. Lies, all lies. I don't blame you. You only know what they tell you.


DESPITE WHAT ANYONE SAYS, AMSOIL XL-7500 IS A CONVENTIONAL BASED OIL.

I've been using Mobil 1, but just ordered 5 quarts of Amsoil 10w30. I'm going to pick up a couple OEM filters and change to Amsoil in the next few weeks. Hopefully it will preserve the longevity of my engine a little longer! I might end up having to keep this car for quite a while. The good news is, if I got a little long on the oil changes (like 6 to 8k miles), I'll only have to change my oil twice a year. Living close to work kicks ass.

and the XL-7500 has a...you guessed it, 7500 mile drain interval.
wow thats awesome, and worth the extra money. so instead of every 3000 miles, will i really be able to go 7500 without an oil change? would that xl7500 or the 10w30 purple be a better investment?

Whatevers on sale... usualy quaker state, because its $1.29 a quart.

Seriously - your not going to feel any noticable difference wth oil that costs over $5 a quart - thats just foolish.

Oil is oil - it all has to meet strict standards and even if it only met, and not exceeded those standards, it would still be very good oil and not "harm" your car. And most oils - penzoil, valvoline, quaker state, mobil - far exceed those standards.

Using insanely expensive oils is just that - insane. You are NOT goint to notice a performance increase, and your car will NOT last significantly longer.

I have been changing oil in my mom's 96 lumina since the day she bought it - always used the cheapest oil I can find. The car is cruisin today the same as the day it was made - and its at 275k miles!

Now if you were a hardcore racer and had your car only for the purpose of racing and it wasnt your daily driver, then synthetics would be a good idea. But outrageous oil is not needed for a car that is not stressed and "worked" enough to need it.

Unless you are building a rocket launcher or you're retarded, you shouldnt be buying oil that is any more than $3 a quart - and last I heard, the tib isn't capable of leaving planetary orbit.

Joshuwa,

Using good oil is NOT about performance. It's about maintenance. It's about what won't break down if you have to go a little longer before you change the oil. It's about giving the 3000k recommended oil change interval the bird!

Better oil DOES mean less wear. Although, the BEST policy, REGARDLESS of what you use, is a REGULAR maintenance schedule. Take care of it, and it will take care of you.

Very true.

It just bothers me sometimes when people thing they will get huge gains or any gains at all for that matter by spending more money on oil.

Its not like the engine asks the oil..."psst...hey...how much did he pay for you?" and then the engine basis its performance on whatever the answer is..

If im not mistaken - dosnt the hyundai manual say to change the oil every 7500 miles??

I change mine every 3000 - 7500 seems a little much for normal oil.

I believe the manual says every 3750 with conventional oil.

I like Red Line oil.
http://www.redlineoil.com/

I use 10w 30 for engine

MT-90 for tranny

Also use Red Lines water wetter and their fuel additive.

Great stuff, I love it and it loves my baby :) It's spendy though. Even more expensive than Royal Purple

In general though, i would say that Red Line, Royal Purple and Amsoil are probrably the best synthetics you can get. I'm sure there are others sold elswhere in the world that are just as good too.

<----------Question: My dealer gives me free oil changes for life.....what oil do they use?

More than likely, the cheapest stuff they can get.
If they were giving them to you "free" for life, you can't expect them to use anything expensive, or it would end up costing them FAR too much money to be able to afford it.

Remember...the dealers primary objective is to MAKE MONEY...they can't do that by giving away high end products.

<----------Question: My dealer gives me free oil changes for life.....what oil do they use?

More than likely they get oil in bulk ( in big huge barrells), and alot of the time its mixed, like half 5w30 and half 10w30, but is usually the same brand. And more than likely its just valvoline, quakerstate, penzoil, etc. good old fashioned "dino" oil.

More than likely they get oil in bulk ( in big huge barrells), and alot of the time its mixed, like half 5w30 and half 10w30, but is usually the same brand. And more than likely its just valvoline, quakerstate, penzoil, etc. good old fashioned "dino" oil.

so is this bad?

yeah my dealer told me for 10W30, they usually use quakerstate :p

Using insanely expensive oils is just that - insane. You are NOT goint to notice a performance increase, and your car will NOT last significantly longer.

That's not completely true man. Better synthetics have better flow and breakdown characteristics. They are also much more slippery than conventionals.

Better flow will get to engine components quicker on cold start up, it won't break down as quickly under heat, and it won't put the drag on an engine that normal conventional oils can at times, which creates less internal heat.

The result, lees cold start up wear, less wear from breakdown, slightly more power to the wheels because there isn't as much drag, and a slightly cooler running engine. Almost anybody that switches to a synthetic will tell you that the car runs a bit smoother at idle, these things are the reason for that.

Oil isn't just oil.

<----------Question: My dealer gives me free oil changes for life.....what oil do they use?

oh **** that's awesome, if I were you I would get an oil change every week. haha..

Whatevers on sale... usualy quaker state, because its $1.29 a quart.

Seriously - your not going to feel any noticable difference wth oil that costs over $5 a quart - thats just foolish.

Oil is oil - it all has to meet strict standards and even if it only met, and not exceeded those standards, it would still be very good oil and not "harm" your car. And most oils - penzoil, valvoline, quaker state, mobil - far exceed those standards.

Using insanely expensive oils is just that - insane. You are NOT goint to notice a performance increase, and your car will NOT last significantly longer.

I have been changing oil in my mom's 96 lumina since the day she bought it - always used the cheapest oil I can find. The car is cruisin today the same as the day it was made - and its at 275k miles!

Now if you were a hardcore racer and had your car only for the purpose of racing and it wasnt your daily driver, then synthetics would be a good idea. But outrageous oil is not needed for a car that is not stressed and "worked" enough to need it.

Unless you are building a rocket launcher or you're retarded, you shouldnt be buying oil that is any more than $3 a quart - and last I heard, the tib isn't capable of leaving planetary orbit.
You sound like some of my idiot friends that drive piles of crap and make fun of me for spending a lil more on oil then they do. Some people just don't get it.

oh **** that's awesome, if I were you I would get an oil change every week. haha..

lol, they only change it via scheduled matinance...but i was thinking about synthetics....i want whats best for my car

You sound like some of my idiot friends that drive piles of crap and make fun of me for spending a lil more on oil then they do. Some people just don't get it.


I get it , but what everyone has to think to themselves is how long do i plan on keeping this car.
I started out using mobil1 and was planning on using royal purple cause i was planning on keeping my Tib for a while. (7-10 years).

To be perfectly honest with you i'm ready to get rid of it now if i wouldnt take a loss (for as much $$ i put into it.) But i know for a fact that in one or two more years i'll get rid of it. So why even bother with good oil. I buy walmart special now. TECH 2000 baby. $8 a case (24)
I change it every 4000 mile. How much you want to bet that my engine will last 2 more years fine with this oil.(i have 14000 miles on it now) I have no doubt that even if i beat the crap out of it. it will be fine. if not well thats what warrenty is for. Just keep you recipts

So if you want to keep your car for 2-3 years just use reg oil.
your wasting $$ if you dont

If you plan on keeping the car for the long run, use some good stuff. It is better.

the dealership i work at uses castrol 20W50 for all the cars we work on. and the intervals are 7,500 mi

I use Mobil 1 synthetic and NAPA gold oil filters. I also keep record of mileage of every oil change, that way when I do sell my car, i can show when and what type of oil was used for each change. If you are selling your vehicle privately, That will help your resale value. If they ask what you used all the time adn you say royal purple, and they say, do you ahve reciepts and stuff? and you say, no, but I have these cheap wal-mart sale oil reciepts, but i swear, i used royal purple... you get the picture. Use good oil, get good results all around, not just longevity. Some oils cause more build up and some work better for flowing through turbos, etc.

I am also on the Royal Purple bandwagon... LOL

I've been using it since 10k & I now have 35k on the car...

I change the oil every 5000-6000 miles & the oil still looks just as good as when I first put it in...

Monkman...Good choice on filters...

Napa Gold filters are a top of the line filter made by WIX...

Joshwa... Pennzoil & Quaker State are 2 of the WORST oils to put in your car...

All of your Pennsylvania crude oils have a very high parafin ( wax ) content to them...

After extended years of running them, you will have more sludge in your engine than you will using ANY of the other brands...

I used to work in parts houses for years...I've seen things that you wouldn't believe....

I meant sludge when I said buildup...

Would it be recommended that I upgrade to a better oil than modil 1 10w30 fully synthetic when I go turbo? I have not really researched what kind of oil would be best for a TD04h turbo.

Thanks for the props on filter choice. A very good friend of mine has a dad who is an ASE master certified automotive tech and master diesel and is a rotary guru, and he said that if i wanted the best filter (or at least a very good one) use a wix. I then proceeded to admit my ignornace and ask, where do i get a wix filter? and he told me that Napa Gold filters are made by them. I say they are worth the extra 2 dollars!

I meant sludge when I said buildup...

Would it be recommended that I upgrade to a better oil than modil 1 10w30 fully synthetic when I go turbo? I have not really researched what kind of oil would be best for a TD04h turbo.

Thanks for the props on filter choice. A very good friend of mine has a dad who is an ASE master certified automotive tech and master diesel and is a rotary guru, and he said that if i wanted the best filter (or at least a very good one) use a wix. I then proceeded to admit my ignornace and ask, where do i get a wix filter? and he told me that Napa Gold filters are made by them. I say they are worth the extra 2 dollars!


I second that filter choice...good stuff...stay away from FRAM...if you running dino juice and get your changes every 3k your fine...if you running syn then you have the luxuryy of extended drains and the comfort of knowing you have a wider range of temperatures where your car wont spaz...but a lot of these temps are extreme although this year places in canada got downright frigid i heard...i can definitely see the benefits of using some syn when it's -30 out...that's my take on oil

So if you want to keep your car for 2-3 years just use reg oil.
your wasting $$ if you dont

If you plan on keeping the car for the long run, use some good stuff. It is better.


Like I said in my post before - I always use quaker state whenever I change the oil in any of our cars (my tib, my moms lumina).

The lumina is nearly 10 years old, 276,000 miles, and still runs like a champ.

No engine problems EVER. If you know what your doing and maintain all the apsects of the vehicle, you dont need to use $5 per quart oil.

Thats proof enough for me.

And Solo - I dont drive a pile of crap, nor am I an idiot, thank you very much. I use the oil I do because there is no point in using something else. Putting expensive oil in your car does not turn it into some baddass ride.

A car running for 10 years and running just fine at 276,000 miles is a long time for a car and thats very high millage - so dont tell me quaker state is only good if you plan on having the car 3 or so years. Even my grama's 89 Chevy 1500 is at close to 300,000 miles and guess what - quaker state oil.

a word of advice for those of you using 5 weight or lower oil

it's a bad idea. I have had a lifter collapse and lose presusre because the oil is too thin. i was using redline 5w30 oil and i had alifter collapse 3 times. I switched back to mobil1 10w30 and it hasnt happened since. Also i noticed a b it of oil getting burned with the lighter weights. our rings arent close enough to the cylinder walls to keep rom having blowby with lightweight oils. 10w30 is the way to go.

a word of advice for those of you using 5 weight or lower oil

it's a bad idea. I have had a lifter collapse and lose presusre because the oil is too thin. i was using redline 5w30 oil and i had alifter collapse 3 times. I switched back to mobil1 10w30 and it hasnt happened since. Also i noticed a b it of oil getting burned with the lighter weights. our rings arent close enough to the cylinder walls to keep rom having blowby with lightweight oils. 10w30 is the way to go.

It depends entirely on your location.

Here in Canada where it frequently hits -30 in the winter, if you run a 10w, you might as well just lock up the car for half the winter. Further south where it barely ever goes below freezing, it's fine.

Besides, a 5w30 is NO thinner than a 10w30. The difference is that it flows easier in cold weather. However, a 10w30 IS thinner than a 10w40 which is thinner than a 20w50 etc...the first number has NO bearing on how thick/thin the oils is, it just determines it's cold weather flow characteristics. In a sense a 5w30 will be thinner than a 10w30 in COLD weather (well below freezing). Anything above freezing and they will be the same.

heres what oil is

5w30 is 5 weight oil with the viscosity strength of 30 weight. so it IS actually a lighter oil. It just is as strong as a normal 30 weight oil.

10w30 is 10 weight a HEAVIER oil with the viscosity strength of a 30 weight.

Ok well if 10w30 will make your motor lock up in cold weather then i guess you could sue hyundai for mislabeling the specifications.

Another thing to think about AMSOIL is the additives.

Esp. for turbocharged engines the oil prevents airation and foaming which can lead to oil starvation.

Interesting information about the XL7500 do you have a link rather then just a passage? I called the tech deparment again and they claim that it is the same oil used as any of there other synthetics this one just has less additives ( keeping the cost cheaper as well)

Andrew

Joshuwa,

Like we've mentioned, using premium oil is not about turning your car into some sort of high performance machine. It's about maintenance, not performance gains.

Yes, your mom's lumina may run fine at that mileage if it's been REGULARLY MAINTAINED. In instances like that, changing the oil regularly is more important than what you put in it. If the vehicle is maintained regularly, great. It should last on the cheap oil.

You want to put the cheapest **** in your nice car, that's your prerogative. From the research I've done, I've found that premium oils like Amsoil and Royal Purple perform better than regular $1.89 oils you get on special. They last longer, and reduce wear better. They won't give you +20HP, but they will help reduce the wear on your engine significantly over long periods. Reduced friction over time will also increase your fuel economy. Premium synthetics also allow you to go longer between changes. If I can go 6-10k miles before changing, and the oil costs 2x as much as what I would normally use, well, I didn't spend much more, now did I?

It's all personal choice. What you want to feed your ride. If you want to give it the cheap stuff, then my advice is RELIGIOUSLY CHANGE YOUR OIL EVERY 3000 MILES. NO IFs ANDs OR BUTs.

Like I said in my post before - I always use quaker state whenever I change the oil in any of our cars (my tib, my moms lumina).

The lumina is nearly 10 years old, 276,000 miles, and still runs like a champ.

No engine problems EVER. If you know what your doing and maintain all the apsects of the vehicle, you dont need to use $5 per quart oil.

Thats proof enough for me.

And Solo - I dont drive a pile of crap, nor am I an idiot, thank you very much. I use the oil I do because there is no point in using something else. Putting expensive oil in your car does not turn it into some baddass ride.

A car running for 10 years and running just fine at 276,000 miles is a long time for a car and thats very high millage - so dont tell me quaker state is only good if you plan on having the car 3 or so years. Even my grama's 89 Chevy 1500 is at close to 300,000 miles and guess what - quaker state oil.

Dylan, I guess I somewhat worded it wrong.

Anyways, the important fact is that once the engine is at normal operating tempuratures, a 5w30 and 10w30 will be the same. Only when it is cold will the 5w30 be "thinner" than the 10w30, which will only have a beneficial effect in colder tempuratures. But both oils will be equally "thin" at full operating tempuratures.

I just can't see how the weight of the oil can cause the problem you mentioned. A lack of oil pressure do to underfilled or "frothed" oil due to overfilled crankcase I can see, but not the weight of an oil. If that were the case, there would be a whole lot of people with that problem, as 5w30 and 0w30 are VERY common oils to run year round.

I do know that if you run a turbo, you need something that will resist cooking in the turbo, cuz those *****es get HOT. When I had my Saab 900 Turbo, if I had kept it, I was going to do some mods on it. One thing my father found was an electric pump system that cycles oil through the turbo after you shut off the engine.

A good synthetic would be great for a turbo'd car

heres what oil is

Ok well if 10w30 will make your motor lock up in cold weather then i guess you could sue hyundai for mislabeling the specifications.

In response to this, in the owners manual, page 6-3 if it gets below -23 degrees C (-9 degrees F) to use 5w30. About 2 to 3 months out of the year, it is below -20 degrees C.
It's not that it will make the motor lock up, it's that the oil will be so thick that it will have alot of dificulty starting, and if and when it does, it will take a good minute for oil to be distributed throughout the engine cause major wear.
Hyundai did not mislabel anything...

[QUOTE=EvilDylan]heres what oil is

5w30 is 5 weight oil with the viscosity strength of 30 weight. so it IS actually a lighter oil. It just is as strong as a normal 30 weight oil.

10w30 is 10 weight a HEAVIER oil with the viscosity strength of a 30 weight.
QUOTE]

Both numbers indicate the viscosity of the oil ("weight" is somewhat of a misnomer) and have nothing to do with the "strength". The "w" stands for winter. A 5w30 oil will have the same viscosity as a 5 weight oil when the 5weight is cold, and the same viscosity as a 30 weight oil when the 30 weight is hot.

I use Mobil 1 because it's only about $4/qt at Wal-Mart and have had excellent results in all my cars. I change it every 7500 miles as recommended by Hyundai because my driving falls into the "normal driving" category. Most people drive in what Hyundai describes as extreme conditions, which would make the recommended interval much shorter. If I had to change every 3000 miles I probably wouldn't use synthetic.

This is some interesting reading (its long). Good info on oil.
http://mr2.com/TEXT/synth_oil.txt

When I first bought the car I checked the oil that night under a street light and no kidding the oil in there was so clean is was like water, not even a golden brown.

Anyway since then I have been using Castrol 5W30 and just what ever filter is availiable (usually Fram, Quaker State) Gonna try some synthetic eventually, but not sure about $40 for an oil change.

That was a great article, my eyes hurt now, but a great article none-the-less. I now want to install a bypass filter...lol

good article...Synthetic is definitely the way to go and as for the NAPA gold it is by far the best filter. We run them in all of our equipment and it makes a big difference. Also something for you guys really trying to build fast cars. You might want to consider a remote mounted filter. It allows for more storage of oil in the system as well as keeping tempatures cooler. I think I will eventually do it to my car.

I'm not sure what transmission oil is used, but I just get my oil changed at the dealership for $22 every 3000 miles.

They use Kendall GT-1 Full Synthetic.

Every oil change too, whenever I get close to empty I'll use a bottle of fuel injector cleaner as well. I'm sure some believe that's snake oil... Whatever...

NGK Copper sparkplugs for tune-ups...

I don't change my own oil, because my dealership also tops off all liquids, does a quick general inspection and cleans my windshield. Not to mention they have a 42" plasma TV and really nice leather chairs and food in their waiting room :biggrin:

Gotta love having your Hyundai dealership as part of a Lexus/Toyota dealership :)

$22 for an oil change with synthetic is a great deal.

I do my own, just because. I use Mobil 1 synthetic 10w30 in summer, 5w30 in winter. Both oil and filter every 3000-4000. Oil is about $30 for a 6 quart case, so it costs me about $25 in materials.

My dealer wants $55 for synthetic oil change.. is this about normal? can anyone else post prices they're getting quoted at their dealer.. I goto the Irvine Auto Center : Tuttle Click Hyundai.. Normally $24/oil change(cuz they give me coupons everytime I come in)

My dealer wants $55 for synthetic oil change.. is this about normal? can anyone else post prices they're getting quoted at their dealer.. I goto the Irvine Auto Center : Tuttle Click Hyundai.. Normally $24/oil change(cuz they give me coupons everytime I come in)

They're trying to screw you. I just had mine done at a dealer in this area a few weeks ago. I supplied the oil (Mobil 1 10W30), they did the labor and supplied the filter. The total cost to me was $37 ($25 for the oil, $12 for labor and filter).

hmm.. maybe I'll do that on my next oil change..

What size Napa Gold Fuel Filter is needed for the tiburon? I'm too lazy to check the manual.

damn i finally changed my own oil for once and it was easy as hell plus it was kinda fun!..im glad ill never spending 30 bucks at super lube again. Is there anything else good to do while your under there other than change oil and oil filter? (i used valvoline 10w30 synthetic and a napa oil filter) i just used valv. because im waiting on my royal purple :3_bier:

here is all the oil info you need to know...after reading the pdf I feel like an oil expert ;.)

http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12898

...Talk about reviving dead threads, sheesh.

But yeah, I run AMSOIL Series 2000 0w30 and plan to change the filter every 6k miles. I'll change the oil when it starts looking dirty, but I'm guessing that'll be more around 18k miles, as this is the good ole 35k drain oil.

Anyway, yay for AMSOIL.

My owner's manual says replace engine oil at 7,500 miles or one year ...which means to me that 7500 miles is only one of two requirements... so I will replace oil whichever comes first !!!...this is NOT rocket science !!!... . :3_saai: