I was under the impression that the stock V6 GT had 172 HP, but in some dyno's I see that it only has ~140 HP.... What is the actual stock HP?

stock whp is around 140 stock horsepower at the crank is 171

Anyone know a good place in Dallas area to get a dyno done for a good price?

I do....pm me about it

Yeah, 140WHP is about right. After installing my AEM cai, I was up to 156.2, and 164 tourque. I haven't dynoed it with my exhaust yet.

that's bull**** why doesn't hyundai just tell the true hp readings....but bought mine when they first came out...and it was supposedly 181hp....then they changed it too 170....now its really 140.....i thought the base model was?

it jus gets worse
****

140.2whp 171crank

ANY car you buy is like that. ALL manufacturers list the CRANK ratings, not the power to the wheels.

if you got it when they said it had 180hp at the crank....you should have gotten some kind of compensation, i know a guy he got like a 600 or 700 dollar credit because they over stated it....and yes, all hp ratings that manufacturers list are crank hp....the whp is anywhere from 20 to 40 less than that depending on gearing ratios and such....

in Europe (Germany, Austria, France...)

it's 167 PS for the 2.7 V6 stock model which is equivalent to 164.72 hp...sorry :-\

(the new 2.0 I4 with CVVT has 143 PS which is equivalent to 141.04 hp....not bad)

that's bull**** why doesn't hyundai just tell the true hp readings....but bought mine when they first came out...and it was supposedly 181hp....then they changed it too 170....now its really 140.....i thought the base model was?You cant mix crank hp and whp numbers ANY car you buy is like that. ALL manufacturers list the CRANK ratings, not the power to the wheels.

One of my tuner mags had a 10 car comparison with the Tib placing 7th. They had the crank hp at 170 and the whp at 148(for the six speed). The Nissan Sentra-R 6th had 175crank and put out 145 at the wheel.
I can't remember the mag but here are the cars they tested.
10.Civic SI
9.
8.Jette GT
7.Tiburon GT
6.Sentra-R
5.
4.
3.
2.MINI S
1.Dodge SRT
Can't remember some of the placings, I think there was a Focus SVT and a Protege in there.

if you take 15% from 175 that is what most of us have on the dyno and if you take 15% from 180 its 153 whp so it's not that big of a diff.

Don't worry Blue the estimated quarter mile is still right, which means the car is still just as fast as stated....

Besides....most people are ignorant to the details and you could just about blurt out any number and they would believe you. If someone asks I just give them the crank HP....makes it sound better....I mean come on most people wouldn't understand the loss at the wheels vs. at the crank unless you stood there and schooled them....even then I speculate whether or not they would grasp the concept.

If anything it should just make you want to go out and get some more goodies!

-Scott

13-15% is about right for driveline loss of power. I dynod with just a CAI on my 6spd V6 and had 164 hp and 181 in torque. E-mail if you wana see the pull

Does anyone know if there is an exact calculation for loss of power to the wheels or is it just an estimation because of the drivetrain ? obviously you lose more power if ur AWD but does it matter the materials or setup used for a FWD or RWD ? < confused

It's a rule of thumb. Drivetrain loss will vary with the drivetrain being turned by the motor. Frontwheel drive loses less than rear wheel drive, which loses less than AWD or 4WD. Auto trannies lose more than manual trannies. The only way to get an exact calculation would be to dyno each and every combo available at the wheels and then have an exact crank HP/torque measurement at the crank. And even that may vary from car to car, in reality.

That's why we use a "rule of thumb". And the rule of thumb will vary, depending on tranny and axle/differential/wheels driven.

Somebody on here used to have a pretty accurate calculation, but also comes down to the car, dyno used, temp, and location...I have seen dyno numbers ranging from low as 140 upto 153 WHP..REMEMBER 140-153 is dyno wheel horse power, how much power your planting to the ground..The car is still rated at CRANK HP 170 for 03 and I heard the 04 got a 2hp bump at the crank due to compression change. I have seen the mighty RSX-S putting down 154 upto 160 whp.. which honestly is not alot considering that the RSX-S has 200hp at the crank..So don't feel bad guys like everyone says, manufacturers list CRANK HP not WHEEL HP...big differences.. 8)

is there any type of calculation you can do to convert crank hp to whp?

Magister, see Sleasy's post. There is no absolute, hard and fast calculation. It varies based on a lot of different factors. But GENERALLY, you get about 15% less HP at the wheels than at the crank.

is there any type of calculation you can do to convert crank hp to whp?

Not really, as EVERY car will be different.

Everything between the flywheel and tires will affect the amount of drivetrain loss. Weight of clutch, axles, wheels, tires and everything else in between.

A calculation that may work everytime for one make of car will ONLY work for that make of car.

It's just a relatively common assumption that between 12%-18% of the power at the crank is lost in the drivetrain on a FWD car.

Yeah, 140WHP is about right. After installing my AEM cai, I was up to 156.2, and 164 tourque. I haven't dynoed it with my exhaust yet.

wow! I did not know that a CAI added so much hp... You gained 16 whp just by adding an intake? That is interesting... I think I am missing something here because that is a lot of hp just from an intake...

There is agroup buy going on right now for the Injen (sp?) CAI. $199.00. Buy one, install it, and grab your ass...........

Does a CAI violate the warranty at all? Also, do you get a decrease in gas mileage? Why are some intakes so much cheaper than others?

It shouldn't void your warranty. Depends on your dealer. If they balk at it, take it to another dealer. I've had a CAI on for over a year with no warranty hassles. The cheaper ones are probably just as good as the more expensive "name brand" types. Installation is not too tough. The toughest part is getting the OEM plastic tubing and resonator boxes out of the car. Installing the new CAI is a cinch. You will love it after the install. The Tib V6 just "wakes up" and the VRROOOM is really nice.

. The Tib V6 just "wakes up" and the VRROOOM is really nice.

So, it'll sound that much better even without replacing the stock exhaust? Also, what about gas mileage?

So, it'll sound that much better even without replacing the stock exhaust? Also, what about gas mileage?

It will sound better after 3k rpms. About gas mileage, its supposed to help, but you'll probably have a lead foot after the install, so you won't notice it.

Sorry for being a retard, but something like this would probably work just as well as a >$200 AEM CAI?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2457192376&category=38634

Maybe not. The longer tube is the one that fits down into the fender well are behind the front bumper. The tubing on this one has an enlarged part where the filter hooks to it. The rest of the tubing....away from the enlarged end is smaller diameter. The idea is to have all the tubing be maximum fittable diameter and consistent in diameter throughout the length of the entire tube. Look at some the name brand CAI and you will see the difference.

However for the price of this one, you cannot go too far wrong. You may give up 2-3 HP and have a little tougher install. That is how I see it.

I guess that would make sense, to avoid any turbulence in the air flow. This one's price is so tempting though...I'll think about it again this summer. Alittle short on funds after my recent purchase of stock 17s. Thank you both for the help.

Actually, upon second glance, there's a whole thread concerning this very intake just below mine:

http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=548

i had 152 whp when i dynoed mine stock.