2.0L Timing Belt Replacement.
Disclaimer: You don't want to do this. If it's your first time you should know that it will take ten hours of fiddly work, and that paying someone to do this means you don't have to worry about blowing something up when you drive your car. But you're stubborn and motivated and going to do it anyway, so let me help:
3x accessory belts (alternator, power steering, air conditioner)Tools:
Waterpump + gasket (if you're going to be in there, you might as well)
You can buy OEM replacement part sets with all these (except for the coolant / sealant) for about $200 through SFR (http://kdmstuff.com/shop/step1.php?number=549) or Ebay (seller: kapastore).
Note: These kits will include 3 round gaskets, which you won't use. To replace the top gaskets you have to remove the head, and to replace the bottom gasket you have to remove the oil pan and oil pump... and you would need new gaskets/sealants for each. You will not be able to pluck it out from the outside.
10,12,14, 17mm sockets, a socket wrench, and (a) extension bar(s).
14, 17, 23mm sockets (14 has to be a deep socket, the others you can get away with shallow sockets) and breaker bar / impact wrench
Funnel / bucket
Lug wrench (stocker works fine)
Scissor jack (stock jack is fine) or jackstand
Floor jack (you might be able to avoid this one, but it makes it much easier. I'd go buy one if I were you. $50 tops at harbor freight.)
Wooden block - 4" of 2x4, 2x6, whatever floats your boat.
6" gear puller You can't avoid this one. $30 @ pepboys, I'm sure it's less expensive elsewhere.
Razorblade / wirewheel.
Phillips head screw driver
http://www.hmaservice.com account - It's free, I stole all my pictures from it, and there's a ton of information in the "shop" section.
Move your car outside. You're going to have to drain the radiator and you'll spill some extra when you pull the pump out, so it's much easier to do all this outside.Disassembly
Pop the hood and pull the plug wires.
Raise the passenger side (right side) with the scissor jack (or jack/jackstand), and remove the wheel.
Loosen Crankshaft Bolt
This is what hmaservice pictures look like. Usually they’re simple to understand, but every now and again...
Remove the lower liner behind the wheel, held by two 10mm bolts in the top that screw in upwards. At this point, you need to decide what you're doing with bolts. Leave them in the pieces you take off, reattach them where they came out of, just don't throw them all in a pile.
If you have an impact wrench, I'm jealous. You can skip this step.
If you don't have an impact wrench, here comes one of the scary parts.
This is the crankshaft. If you've been following along you'll recognize the oilpan, and this should all make sense.
Pull out your 23mm socket and breaker bar, and put it on the crankshaft, and wedge it against the frame rail so that it cannot turn in a clockwise direction. Take a clock out there if you need to, if you get it wrong you're going to bash the f*ck out of something.
Now go pull the plug wires. Yeah, again. I don't care if you did it five minutes ago, just check anyways.
Crank the engine. Just briefly. I told you it was scary, but it's magic. The bolt should be loose. Don't take it off yet, but make sure you could take it off if you needed to.
Now, back to the engine bay! We want to remove all the belts, and make some room for ourselves. If you want to work in a different order than this guide, feel free. The order used is only a suggestion to keep parts out of your way. If you have the engine cover, you'll probably have to remove that too, go ahead and do that now.
Power Steering System
Here's your power steering pump. There's even an arrow showing you the first bolt to remove.
If the engine were out of the car, you probably wouldn't need to remove this, but there's very little room to work on this side of the engine, so we're going to.
Loosen the top bolt that connects to the the slot so you can slide it, pivot it back toward the engine, and remove the belt from the pulley. Now remove the pivot bolt so the pump is just hanging out. We'll come back to this. I put the bolt back in the pump so I didn't lose it.
I'm not re-explaining what this is. It's against the edge of the engine bay.
Go over to the power steering fluid reservoir (follow the hoses). Undo the screw on top, pry/shimmy it out of the bracket, and let it rest wherever it wants. You can remove the mounting bracket too if you want. Depends how much room you need.
Head back to the power steering pump and undo the screw it is hanging from the rest of the way. Move the pump and the reservoir out of the way. I placed the pump on top of the engine, and the reservoir I hooked on the oil dipstick over the headers.
Now is as good a time as any to drain the radiator. This is why the tool list has pliers/crescent wrench. There will be a plug on the bottom of the radiator, on my aftermarket radiator it was near the drivers-side end. Open it up, shove a bucket under, piece of cake.
Here is the motor mount. Hmaservice even started the disassembly for us!
Continuing with our tear-down, you'll notice the motor mount beneath where the power steering lines ran. I pity the fool who doesn't have a 14mm deep socket. I actually saved time by driving to the hardware store and buying one instead of attempting to use the other wrenches I had.
17mm nut on top of the motor mount, 2 14mm nuts and a 14mm bolt across the bridge on the engine, and another at the end of the piece of metal that heads back towards the firewall.
The mount won't come out yet though, since it's still holding up the engine. Get the floor jack and the wooden block. The wooden block prevents the floor jack from denting your oil pan, which will deprive your engine of oil, which is a bad thing. Put the block on the jack, and the jack under the oil pan. This will let you raise the entire engine until it is loose enough that the engine mount will slide right off, as will the flat metal piece beneath it. Again, I recommend putting the bolts/nuts back on so they don't wander.
You can now jack the engine up and down. Don't worry about harming it (as long as you don't lose the wooden block), the other engine mounts will keep it from going anywhere it shouldn't. Certain tasks will be simpler with the engine higher or lower, so feel free to move it at your discretion.
The motor mount will still be in the way though. You don't need to remove it, but you probably want to. There are three 14mm bolts (front, back, and side). I found it was easier to move the abs module, and then unbolt it. The abs module is held in by three more bolts (two low, one high), but you will need to loosen the lines running to it (don't disconnect them! If you drain it, it dies). The lines are bolted to the engine bay wall by brackets, one beneath the power steering resevoir bracket, and another near the strut tower.
Again, Hmaservice is pointing out the important bolts. Thanks!
Now we need to remove the alternator and AC belts. To remove the alternator belt, loosen the bolt on the top of the alternator bracket, allowing the alternator to slide back towards the engine block. Upper Timing Belt Cover
The process for the AC belt is similar, only more painful. The easiest way to see what were going to do is by lowering the engine and looking in the wheel well. We need to loosen the tensioning pulley, and we do that by loosening the adjustment bolt behind it. You'll know it's the right one because you'll be able to feel threads on it. Hmaservice doesn't have a picture of it, but it is to the side of and behind the engine, and the one pulley we haven't touched yet that isn't the A/C compressor. You'll have to turn this a lot, but eventually you'll be able to pop the belt off.
Align Timing Marks
You can see why we moved the power steering lines
Four 10mm bolts. Super-easy, and your first look at the beast we've come to slay.
Why yes, I am basing this entirely off of the Hyundai guide.
Crank the engine (clockwise as always) so that the little hole on the camshaft gear is at the top, and lines up with the red dot behind it.
Except they have their pictures in 5 different places.
Now we do the same for the bottom. And by do the same, I mean make sure that the mark on the pulley lines up with the T on the little bump-out.
Go: Alpine m62 @ 5psi strut/sway/room/lower bars, DTPs, koyo rad, LW fly, +clutch, xg350 bbk, 18x8+35
Show: Lambo's, CF Hatch/hood/trim, diffuser, tint, fenders, volt stabilizer, strobes, AE's, underglow, gilllglow, custom tails
Interior: Integrated radar/eeepc/cb, dynamat, 300w sub, marble & leather, glow, sills, door plates + 2nd handles, Starlight headliner, analog clock, passenger horn
In progress: fixing these.
Last edited by MindHacker; 10-27-2010 at 11:07 PM.