Join Date: Mar 2008
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
||LinkBack||Thread Tools||Search this Thread||Display Modes|
3x accessory belts (alternator, power steering, air conditioner)Tools:
Waterpump + gasket (if you're going to be in there, you might as well)
You can buy OEM replacement part sets with all these (except for the coolant / sealant) for about $200 through SFR (http://kdmstuff.com/shop/step1.php?number=549) or Ebay (seller: kapastore).
Note: These kits will include 3 round gaskets, which you won't use. To replace the top gaskets you have to remove the head, and to replace the bottom gasket you have to remove the oil pan and oil pump... and you would need new gaskets/sealants for each. You will not be able to pluck it out from the outside.
10,12,14, 17mm sockets, a socket wrench, and (a) extension bar(s).
14, 17, 23mm sockets (14 has to be a deep socket, the others you can get away with shallow sockets) and breaker bar / impact wrench
Funnel / bucket
Lug wrench (stocker works fine)
Scissor jack (stock jack is fine) or jackstand
Floor jack (you might be able to avoid this one, but it makes it much easier. I'd go buy one if I were you. $50 tops at harbor freight.)
Wooden block - 4" of 2x4, 2x6, whatever floats your boat.
6" gear puller You can't avoid this one. $30 @ pepboys, I'm sure it's less expensive elsewhere.
Razorblade / wirewheel.
Phillips head screw driver
http://www.hmaservice.com account - It's free, I stole all my pictures from it, and there's a ton of information in the "shop" section.
Move your car outside. You're going to have to drain the radiator and you'll spill some extra when you pull the pump out, so it's much easier to do all this outside.Disassembly
Loosen Crankshaft Bolt
This is what hmaservice pictures look like. Usually they’re simple to understand, but every now and again...
Remove the lower liner behind the wheel, held by two 10mm bolts in the top that screw in upwards. At this point, you need to decide what you're doing with bolts. Leave them in the pieces you take off, reattach them where they came out of, just don't throw them all in a pile.
Now, back to the engine bay! We want to remove all the belts, and make some room for ourselves. If you want to work in a different order than this guide, feel free. The order used is only a suggestion to keep parts out of your way. If you have the engine cover, you'll probably have to remove that too, go ahead and do that now.
This is the crankshaft. If you've been following along you'll recognize the oilpan, and this should all make sense.
Pull out your 23mm socket and breaker bar, and put it on the crankshaft, and wedge it against the frame rail so that it cannot turn in a clockwise direction. Take a clock out there if you need to, if you get it wrong you're going to bash the f*ck out of something.
Now go pull the plug wires. Yeah, again. I don't care if you did it five minutes ago, just check anyways.
Crank the engine. Just briefly. I told you it was scary, but it's magic. The bolt should be loose. Don't take it off yet, but make sure you could take it off if you needed to.
Now is as good a time as any to drain the radiator. This is why the tool list has pliers/crescent wrench. There will be a plug on the bottom of the radiator, on my aftermarket radiator it was near the drivers-side end. Open it up, shove a bucket under, piece of cake.
Here's your power steering pump. There's even an arrow showing you the first bolt to remove.
If the engine were out of the car, you probably wouldn't need to remove this, but there's very little room to work on this side of the engine, so we're going to.
Loosen the top bolt that connects to the the slot so you can slide it, pivot it back toward the engine, and remove the belt from the pulley. Now remove the pivot bolt so the pump is just hanging out. We'll come back to this. I put the bolt back in the pump so I didn't lose it.
I'm not re-explaining what this is. It's against the edge of the engine bay.
Go over to the power steering fluid reservoir (follow the hoses). Undo the screw on top, pry/shimmy it out of the bracket, and let it rest wherever it wants. You can remove the mounting bracket too if you want. Depends how much room you need.
Head back to the power steering pump and undo the screw it is hanging from the rest of the way. Move the pump and the reservoir out of the way. I placed the pump on top of the engine, and the reservoir I hooked on the oil dipstick over the headers.
Here is the motor mount. Hmaservice even started the disassembly for us!
Continuing with our tear-down, you'll notice the motor mount beneath where the power steering lines ran. I pity the fool who doesn't have a 14mm deep socket. I actually saved time by driving to the hardware store and buying one instead of attempting to use the other wrenches I had.
17mm nut on top of the motor mount, 2 14mm nuts and a 14mm bolt across the bridge on the engine, and another at the end of the piece of metal that heads back towards the firewall.
The mount won't come out yet though, since it's still holding up the engine. Get the floor jack and the wooden block. The wooden block prevents the floor jack from denting your oil pan, which will deprive your engine of oil, which is a bad thing. Put the block on the jack, and the jack under the oil pan. This will let you raise the entire engine until it is loose enough that the engine mount will slide right off, as will the flat metal piece beneath it. Again, I recommend putting the bolts/nuts back on so they don't wander.
You can now jack the engine up and down. Don't worry about harming it (as long as you don't lose the wooden block), the other engine mounts will keep it from going anywhere it shouldn't. Certain tasks will be simpler with the engine higher or lower, so feel free to move it at your discretion.
The motor mount will still be in the way though. You don't need to remove it, but you probably want to. There are three 14mm bolts (front, back, and side). I found it was easier to move the abs module, and then unbolt it. The abs module is held in by three more bolts (two low, one high), but you will need to loosen the lines running to it (don't disconnect them! If you drain it, it dies). The lines are bolted to the engine bay wall by brackets, one beneath the power steering resevoir bracket, and another near the strut tower.
Again, Hmaservice is pointing out the important bolts. Thanks!
Now we need to remove the alternator and AC belts. To remove the alternator belt, loosen the bolt on the top of the alternator bracket, allowing the alternator to slide back towards the engine block.Upper Timing Belt Cover
The process for the AC belt is similar, only more painful. The easiest way to see what were going to do is by lowering the engine and looking in the wheel well. We need to loosen the tensioning pulley, and we do that by loosening the adjustment bolt behind it. You'll know it's the right one because you'll be able to feel threads on it. Hmaservice doesn't have a picture of it, but it is to the side of and behind the engine, and the one pulley we haven't touched yet that isn't the A/C compressor. You'll have to turn this a lot, but eventually you'll be able to pop the belt off.
Align Timing Marks
You can see why we moved the power steering lines
Four 10mm bolts. Super-easy, and your first look at the beast we've come to slay.
Why yes, I am basing this entirely off of the Hyundai guide.
Crank the engine (clockwise as always) so that the little hole on the camshaft gear is at the top, and lines up with the red dot behind it.
Except they have their pictures in 5 different places.
Now we do the same for the bottom. And by do the same, I mean make sure that the mark on the pulley lines up with the T on the little bump-out.
To remove the lower timing belt cover you have to remove three pulleys (from two places). First we have the water pump pulleys. These are the two different-sized pulleys bolted together. I used two 10mm wrenches so I could keep the pulley from spinning while unbolting it. Four 10mm screws, keep them with the pulleys.Water Pump
Lower the engine and remove the lower crank pulley. This is why you bought the gear puller. Remove the 23mm bolt (that you loosened earlier, or you have an impact-wrench for), attach the gear puller, and twist the shaft on it. Mine was designed for a 5/8" socket wrench. The gear-puller will grip the pulley tightly and drawing it off at the same time. Try not to rotate the crankshaft while using the gear puller.
You won't have anywhere near this much room to work, but the idea is the same.
Now, we can finally take off the lower timing belt cover. 5 bolts and it comes right off. Make sure not to lose the gasket inside the edge.
This image doesn't show the bolts, but it should be enough for you to get the idea.
We have finally come to the point where we can do what we came here to do! Because water and oil are both bad for the timing belt, we'll replace the water pump first. First step, remove the timing belt idler pulley. 14mm socket, it’s the round, lowered and centered pulley on the timing belt, and it overlaps the waterpump.
Now we need to remove the top alternator bracket, and then the rest of the 5 bolts holding the water pump to the block. It's going to start to leak, and that's OK.
There's one last bolt that needs to be undone, and it’s the closest bolt on the bottom of the mounting block for the motor mount. (The motor-mount mount mounting bolt). The water pump should pop off now! Water/coolant will dribble down the side of your block. Not a problem, but it's best if you rinse this off.
Using your wire-wheel or razor blade, remove what remains of the gasket. This will take a while, but be thorough and try to get all of the gasket and gasket-glue off. Think of your time as an investment in not spraying coolant all over the timing belt, which would mean you'd be back in here redoing everything.
Inspect the new coolant pump, make sure there's no flashing or paper stuck to the blades. Finally, parts are going on and not off the car! If you have some (and it's better if you do), apply gasket sealant to both sides of the new water pump gasket. Affix the gasket to the block and then the new water pump. Bolt the pump back to the block, remembering to include the alternator support bracket. If you want the torques: 20 ft-lbs. In general, they are the one thing hmaservice is really good at, so you should check there since I'm lazy. The most forgettable bolt goes back on now too, the Motor-mount mount mounting bolt.
A-Crankshaft gear (sprocket). B-Idler pulley. C-Camshaft gear. D-Tensioning pulley.
Reinstall the idler pulley (temporarily), so that the belt is properly tight. The guys on elantraXD have a good trick for this next task: mark the old belt and the teeth on the gears with a sharpie. I colored one tooth on the gear and two teeth on the belt, along with a line across the back of the belt. (If you mark the belt before removing the idler pulley to access the waterpump, you can skip this reinstall/re-remove.)
Now remove the idler pulley, the tensioning pulley (it's offset brother to the other side), and slide the belt off of the gears. Line up the "direction of travel" arrows and transfer the new markings from the old belt to the new belt, making sure that the same number of teeth are between the marks. Now stomp on the old belt and swear at it. You'll feel better, I promise.
At this point it is a good idea to dry the lower gear, since you probably poured water all over it, and this is bad for the timing belt. It will slide off, and since it is a keyed shaft, it will slide back on again in exactly the same orientation. If you want to double-check the alignment, the factory marked (not sharpie marked) tooth will line up with the indent in the block.
Which I didn't realize until I started to write this guide.
Slide the new belt on, making sure the arrows are facing clockwise, and making sure your markings match up on both gears.
Install the new pulleys where the old ones were. First the idler pulley, and second the tensioning pulley. Tension can be set by using an Allen wrench to hold the pulley in a rotated position while tightening the main bolt. The angle will be similar to the previously set angle, but not necessarily the same. By the numbers: You want to lock down the tensioner to the block with 35-40 foot-pounds, and you want the belt to be tight enough that it flexes 1/8" to 1/4" when you pull on it with 5 pounds of force.
Double check that everything is still aligned. I hit the word limit, so see the "timing correction" section.
Also, make sure that you didn't spin the crankshaft a full rotation while not rotating the camshaft. Because this is an "interference" type engine, this could result in the piston contacting the valves (which will destroy both, and probably the rest of the engine as well). The engine doesn't want to spin on you though, so unless you turned one of the shafts you will be ok.
Take a moment to examine your bolts. If any are shiny, that means they go inside the timing belt cover, and should be reinstalled now (so you don't have to repeat this process.) Nothing? Not even the motor-mount/water pump bolt? Ok, we're good to go.Timing Correction
The lower timing belt cover, then the crankshaft pulley. Remember this is keyed and will only reattach at a certain angle. If you do not have an impact wrench you will have to hold the shaft steady to screw in the bolt. The manual removes the head to hold the camshaft with a wrench, but I wedged a large screwdriver between the camshaft sprocket and the block. Not ideal, but be gently forceful and nothing will be damaged (don't beat on it).
Now comes the upper timing belt cover and the belts. The power steering and AC belts have to go on first. The power steering belt will be the thinner belt. The AC and alternator belts look very similar, however one will be almost imperceptibly shorter than the other. The shorter belt is the air conditioner belt. You'll have to loosen the tensioner that's back behind everything, and then tighten it for like 5 minutes straight.
Reattach the water pump pulleys, and reattach the power steering pump. Tension the power steering pump by prying it away from the block with a 2x2/breaker bar/pipe while tightening the top bolt in its slot.
Route the alternator belt around the crankshaft, alternator, and the water pump, and tension the belt by adjusting the long bolt on the top of the alternator.
Replace the plug in the radiator and refill it. Assuming no leaves fell into the bucket, you can reuse the same coolant. It's easy enough to replace it though, so there's no good reason to reuse, but it's your choice. You'll need to add more than you had before as well, to replace the coolant lost from pump-spillage.
Finally it's time to reinstall the plug wires and test the car. The moment of truth. You did refill your radiator, right? If it makes bad noises or idles terribly you'll need to check the alignment and tension of the timing belt. If it squeals, tighten your belts, especially your alternator belt. Turn it off, then back on again. If it throws a CEL, check the alignment. If it works, no CELs, you're awesome!
Check the belt tension now that it's run some. You'll probably need to tighten the AC belt even more. Once the belts are sorted, attach the upper timing belt cover, the motor mount base, the motor mount plate, the motor mount itself (adjusting the engine jack as needed), the abs system and power steering reservoir (if loosened), the decorative engine cover (if applicable) the wheel well cover, and the wheel.
Pull the jacks, top off your coolant (as the level dropped when you started the car) and you're done! You can now pay a mechanic to do this 75,000 miles from now, safe in the knowledge that you could do it, you're just letting him this time.
If you need to adjust the timing after putting everything back together, remove the upper timing belt cover/wheel/wheel liner. You can use the hole in the camshaft gear and the marking on the crankshaft pulley to check your timing. If it is off, use your sharpie to mark a camshaft tooth, the belt at that tooth, and the belt where that tooth should be. Loosen the tensioner, remove the camshaft sprocket, rotate it to line up the new mark with the tooth, and loosely bolt it back on. Crank the lower pulley a short distance forward or backward so that the key lines up on the camshaft, tighten the camshaft bolt, and tighten the tensioner.
Rotate the crankshaft an two entire revolutions, so the camshaft gear hole is at the top again, and check the timing. Repeat as needed, remembering to set the tension and rotate the crankshaft fully each time, otherwise the markings will be meaningless due to the location of the slack in the belt.
First of all, thanks for this guide!
Secondly, I'm having a bit of an issue. I replaced everything following what you've said. I marked the timing belt, made sure both gears were perfectly inline with their marks (the dimple behind the hole in the cam and the dimple in the crank with the dent in the engine). I made sure these were inline even after I tightened the tensioner.
Then I start the car and it idles at 1.5k rpm after peaking at 3k. Then hit the gas a couple times and it will begin fluctuating between 1.5k rpm and 2.5k rpm every few seconds. I reset the computer, still the problem there. I'm getting a check engine light as well. I assumed this was a timing issue, so I redid everything and I'm still getting the issue.
Is there any way I can rotate the crank and cam to make sure everything is perfectly in sync? Not really sure if it's possible that despite being in line on the gears that they give you timing issues, although I assume I'd get more severe problems. Would it be wise to re-mark the timing belt and shift it by one tooth to see if that gets me a better result? Although the potential to be off by two teeth is probably an awful idea...
Extremely lost at this point - any help would be amazing.
|"timing belt", 2.0l|
|Thread Tools||Search this Thread|