**Who needs this DIY?**
For those people who are having erratic problems with their turn-signals
--whether it be the left blinkers, right blinkers, or both.
you might experience that indicate a problem with the BCM turn-signal relay:
(1) When you use your right blinkers, the blinkers get stuck to the "On" position and doesn't blink.
(2) When you use your left blinkers, the blinkers get stuck to the "On" position and doesn't blink.
(3) When using your blinkers, your blinkers' clicking rate starts off normally then begins to blink faster and you've already tried installing new turn-signal light bulbs.
(4) Your blinker--left or right--blinks faster than the OEM rate. This can happen either all the time or sporadically.
(5) When you lock down your car with your keyless remote, the turn signal lights blink once then DON'T turn off but remains stuck on. This may occur every time or once in a while.
(6) The blinker's clicking sound level, on one side only or both sides, has become quieter than the OEM sound level.
**What you can do about this problem.**
(1) Go to the dealer/junkyard and buy a new BCM module. At the dealer, the price range seems to be between $750 to $1300. Buying a used BCM module from the junkyard, obviously, will be cheaper if you can find one in good condition. With a junkyard, though, it's a hit-or-miss.
When you install a BCM, you'll have to have the dealer reprogram your keyless remote/alarm to the new BCM. This service costs ~$50.00.
At my Hyundai dealer where I have a hook-up with the parts manager, I was quoted $540 flat for the BCM module. So if there is anyone who doesn't want to go through the trouble of doing the DIY but want to buy a brand-new BCM module for a good price, PM me/contact me and I'll hook you up.
(2) Do the DIY outlined below. It is a pain in the butt and it's really awkward taking out the BCM module, but it's well worth it since you save HUNDREDS of dollars.
**DIY Parts Needed**
(2) 10-mm socket & ratchet
(3) Pliers (optional. It will help to have a plier if you run into some stubborn connectors that won't come loose easily. I had to use the plier for one of the BCM connectors).
(4) If you decide to desolder the old relay yourself and solder in the new one, then you'll need a soldering iron and/or a desoldering iron, desoldering bulb and/or braid, and solder.
If you DON'T want to do the soldering work yourself, like me, then you can just take off the BCM module from your car and take it to a professional for the installation of the relay. In my case, I went to a local mom-and-pop TV/radio repair shop
and got the relay soldered on for only $10.00 flat. During one of my price-quote hunting sprees, I got a quote from a speaker shop and they wanted $75.00!! Rip-off!!
(5) Replacement BCM turn-signal relay. You can buy one from Mouser
electronics. It's only like ~$3.50. The item number is: NEC EP2-3N1ST. Here is a couple picture of the relay.
And here is the link to Mouser's site where you can order the replacement relay:
 Disconnect your negative battery terminal. 10-mm wrench is used.
 Pull out the plastic fuse cover.
 Remove the two screws that hold down the plastic cover underneath the steering wheel then pull off the cover.
With the cover off, it will look like this:
 Remove the three 10-mm bolts and one 10-mm nut that holds down the metal knee protection brace.
With knee brace off, it will look like this.
 Now, take off all six connectors on the front of the BCM box.
Once all off, it will look like this.
 Now, take off the 2 10-mm bolts and 1 screw that hold down the BCM box as indicated in the picture below.
 The BCM box is now loose but it won't come off yet because some connectors behind the BCM box is still holding on to it. To reach those connectors, you first slide out the BCM box by moving/maneuvering the BCM box around until you slide it off the two slots.
 Once you got the BCM box free from its slots and you have pulled it out, now you can get to removing the 6 connectors on the back of the BCM box.
 Once all the connectors on the front and back of the BCM box has been pulled out, the BCM box is now free from the car. The next step is to pull out all the fuses on the front of the BCM box as well as all the relays on the back of the BCM box.
Here are all the fuses that you need to take off on the front of the BCM box.
Here are all the relays that you need to take off on the backside of the BCM box.
 With all the fuses and relays pulled off the BCM box, you can now pry the lid open by undoing the clips that hold the BCM box together.
 Here is a picture of the BCM box open with the turn-signal relay marked for you. If you want to desolder out the relay yourself, then you'll have to pull out the PCB, turn it over, then desolder the joints behind the turn-signal relay. After that, you plug in the new replacement relay and solder the joints for a tight connection.
In my case, I decided to have a professional solder in my new replacement relay. He charged me $10.00 flat but I ended up giving him a $5.00 tip for a job well-done.
Here is a picture of my BCM PCB with the new relay installed.
 Now, you just have to put everything back in reverse order. Thankfully, putting the BCM box back in its place is much easier and less time-consuming than taking it out. At least, that was how it was for me as a couple of connectors on the BCM box were really, really stubborn and wouldn't pull out unless I used a plier and a large flat-tip screwdriver. My finger tips were KILLING me from pulling out all those connectors.
 With the BCM box, all of its connectors, knee brace, plastic trim, and fuse cover all neatly placed back, reconnect your negative battery terminal and start up your engine.
If this relay replacement fixed your turn-signal-related ailments, then AWESOME!! You just saved hundreds of dollars!!
If you're still having turn-signal-related problems, then you just might have to buy a BCM module.