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post #1 of 16 Old 02-11-2017, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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Tib stalled itself out. wont start now.

2005 Hyundai Tiburon GT 2.7 164K miles

ive searched google and the forums to find an answer, I am at a loss now.

car started for 3 seconds then shut off. turn the key and just makes a clunk sound.

now trying to rule things out.

new battery (other was low and not taking a charge)
new used starter (old one started smoking, this one did too, solenoids are clicking)
all instruments and dash lights/headlights/stereo work fine with key on accessory
when trying to start the headlights don't dim they go completely out.
tried bump start in 2nd gear at around 25 mph, wheels just lock up into a skid
tested the ignition relay and fuel pump relay both checked out.

what do you guys thing this could be?
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post #2 of 16 Old 02-11-2017, 09:42 PM
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Re: Tib stalled itself out. wont start now.

Welcome to NT.

How long have you owned the car?
Other than listed work, what else has been worked on recently?

Sounds like a bad connection, first guess is the ground braid from the UIM (Upper Intake Manifold) to the firewall. This is a main ground, must be on a clean surface, especially on the UIM. If it's bad, you melt the small gage wire from the coil packs.

Wifes car: 2004 Tib GT, 2.7L, 5MT, 193K miles, medium blue, basically stock.
My car: 1998 Legacy GT wagon, 2.5L, 5MT, 176K miles, "Quicksilver", not stock and not slow...
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post #3 of 16 Old 02-12-2017, 07:55 AM
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Re: Tib stalled itself out. wont start now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by trussell99 View Post
2005 Hyundai Tiburon GT 2.7 164K miles

ive searched google and the forums to find an answer, I am at a loss now.

car started for 3 seconds then shut off. turn the key and just makes a clunk sound.

now trying to rule things out.

new battery (other was low and not taking a charge)
new used starter (old one started smoking, this one did too, solenoids are clicking)
all instruments and dash lights/headlights/stereo work fine with key on accessory
when trying to start the headlights don't dim they go completely out.
tried bump start in 2nd gear at around 25 mph, wheels just lock up into a skid
tested the ignition relay and fuel pump relay both checked out.

what do you guys thing this could be?

When was the last time it had a timing belt?

Sounds to me like your engine is locked up. If i was in your position, i would be pulling the timing belt cover off to see if the belt is still intact.

Your starter(s) may be smoking because its simply unable to turn the engine...
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post #4 of 16 Old 02-12-2017, 11:11 AM
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Re: Tib stalled itself out. wont start now.

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Originally Posted by Dangle View Post
When was the last time it had a timing belt?

Sounds to me like your engine is locked up. If i was in your position, i would be pulling the timing belt cover off to see if the belt is still intact.

Your starter(s) may be smoking because its simply unable to turn the engine...
Yeh, could be, OP could get a socket and ratchet/breaker bar on the crank pulley, try CW, if that is too tight, try 1/2 turn or less CCW, see if it moves.

If it the timing belt, hopefully nothing is bent (valves) since it was just starting, not cruising down the highway.

There is a good DIY on replacing a Tib TB, both the I4 and V6.

Wifes car: 2004 Tib GT, 2.7L, 5MT, 193K miles, medium blue, basically stock.
My car: 1998 Legacy GT wagon, 2.5L, 5MT, 176K miles, "Quicksilver", not stock and not slow...
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post #5 of 16 Old 02-12-2017, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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It's my gf car, and her dad's before her so I know 3 years of the maintence from myself doing it. I assume that her dad kept up on maintenance but he ran all of his vehicles pretty hard.

I'm 98% sure there has been no work done to the car besides the basics and a clutch change at around 155K. The timing belt hasn't ever been replaced. I'll be checking that next for sure. Thanks for the input everyone I will let you all know.
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post #6 of 16 Old 02-12-2017, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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Also, I did but a ratchet on the crank pulls and tried to rotate it clockwise. I couldn't budge it at all. I did not try a breaker bar though. People keep telling me my engine is seized.
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post #7 of 16 Old 02-12-2017, 05:02 PM
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Cool Re: Tib stalled itself out. won't CRANK now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by trussell99 View Post
Also, I did put a ratchet on the crank bolt and tried to rotate it clockwise. I couldn't budge it at all. I did not try a breaker bar though. People keep telling me my engine is seized.
If it Is a 1/2" drive ratchet, that should be enough to turn the engine.
Did you try no more than about 1/2 turn CCW? Yes, that's backward, just don't turn too far. If it moves then, go back CW.

If it has oil in it and was not grossly overheated, I doubt it's seized. More likely a broken timing belt and a valve is against a piston.

You can also pull the upper TB cover and have someone watch the cam gear while you turn the crank bolt.

I find removing the front passengers wheel and using a long (3') extension makes my life easier on the crank bolt.

PS, what do other people know about "seized", we're on the Internet, we MUST be correct!
LOL..........

Wifes car: 2004 Tib GT, 2.7L, 5MT, 193K miles, medium blue, basically stock.
My car: 1998 Legacy GT wagon, 2.5L, 5MT, 176K miles, "Quicksilver", not stock and not slow...
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Last edited by Charlie-III; 02-12-2017 at 05:05 PM.
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post #8 of 16 Old 02-13-2017, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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So for an update, it was the timing belt.
Around the crank pulley some of the belt teeth had been ripped off. I also found what seemed to look like a a few gasket seal pieces caught between the belt and the cogs. I'll have pics below. The long piece is the "gasket" the small ones are ripped off belt teeth I believe.

Also for turning the engine with a ratchet, it moved 1/3 rotation CCW, and a little ways past 1/3 rotation back CW then stopped and I couldn't budge it anymore.
Valve against a piston like you guys said maybe? Is there a way to tell without a major tear down?
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post #9 of 16 Old 02-14-2017, 12:34 AM
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Re: Tib stalled itself out. wont start now.

Not really, you need the heads off. While it's possible to move cams and leak down test cylinders, you are likely to still have to pull heads.

Decision time, work with this engine or get a used one.

Wifes car: 2004 Tib GT, 2.7L, 5MT, 193K miles, medium blue, basically stock.
My car: 1998 Legacy GT wagon, 2.5L, 5MT, 176K miles, "Quicksilver", not stock and not slow...
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post #10 of 16 Old 02-14-2017, 06:29 AM
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Re: Tib stalled itself out. wont start now.

I think it's no more interesting to work on this engine.

It's definitely your timing belt that caused the engine stall.
The G6BA-Delta engine is an Interference engine, to be clear, if your timing belt rip or break, you have 99% of chance that the piston hit the valves and bent them.

Consider if you want to repair it, the price of all gaskets (Head Gasket, Cover Gasket) Valves (better to change all the valves), Lifters (better to change all the lifters), Timing belt Kit with Water pump.
You can buy an used engine for cheaper than all those parts.

And, the timing belt may not be the main cause, maybe your engine is seized, and the timing belt just ripped of because the cranckshaft was not able to turn correctly.
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post #11 of 16 Old 02-15-2017, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Well aside from purchasing the engine, anyone know around how much a shop would charge to hook up the engine? Or a very detailed DIY video perhaps? I've been looking for some but most just talk about install problems.
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Re: Tib stalled itself out. wont start now.

engine cost depends where you live. engines go for around $400 for 100k around me, use car-part to find out for you.

If you're going to swap engines, might as well do timing and clutch to the new engine since there will never be an easier time to get to them.

When you buy a car on the very edge of being salvage
2004 Tiburon GT WN | minor performance mods(
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Re: Tib stalled itself out. wont start now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by trussell99 View Post
Well aside from purchasing the engine, anyone know around how much a shop would charge to hook up the engine? Or a very detailed DIY video perhaps? I've been looking for some but most just talk about install problems.
For a such rebuild engine, it will cost the price of a new engine.
A new engine (fully new, and complete with cylinder head and covers), ready to be mounted and oiled, cost about 1400$

You can check it out on MOBIS website TO BUY IT NEW:

NEW ENGINE GAS L6BA (G6BA) EURO-3-4 ASSY-SUB SET HYUNDAI 2015 MNR- ITEM: New engine gas L6BA EURO-3-4 assy-sub set *from M- L6BA 01-07- MOBIS

Or search on ebay and breakyards to find one used with a good mileage
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post #14 of 16 Old 03-19-2017, 03:42 PM
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Re: Tib stalled itself out. wont start now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by trussell99 View Post
2005 Hyundai Tiburon GT 2.7 164K miles

ive searched google and the forums to find an answer, I am at a loss now.

car started for 3 seconds then shut off. turn the key and just makes a clunk sound.

now trying to rule things out.

new battery (other was low and not taking a charge)
new used starter (old one started smoking, this one did too, solenoids are clicking)
all instruments and dash lights/headlights/stereo work fine with key on accessory
when trying to start the headlights don't dim they go completely out.
tried bump start in 2nd gear at around 25 mph, wheels just lock up into a skid
tested the ignition relay and fuel pump relay both checked out.

what do you guys thing this could be?

Sorry, I dropped the ball on following up on this one. I know this is now a month old but, good ole charlie kept you going with sound advice.

IMO, you crossed the point of no return with the text i put in red (see above quote). Meaning, the cost of repairing this engine is probably going to exceed replacing it.

The G6BA 2.7 Delta is very popular, and any salvage yard without one is more than likely a smaller outfit. As mentioned by The_Evenger, car-part is your friend.

If i was in your position, i would assess the over all condition of the vehicle before proceeding. If the rest of the car is as neglected as it sounds, you might want to cut your losses and sell off her valuables to keep the rest of the tibs on the road. Then sell whats left for scrap weight.

On the flip side, you mention it had a clutch put in around 10k miles ago. Not only does that mean someone thought it was worth saving, that's less money needed for the transplant.

Swap the flywheel and clutch disk over. Then replace the pressure plate and throw out bearing, as these two are married (or curse the world while performing the divorce) in order to get a donor engine mounted back in.

The rest is lots of small hidden expenses, and most importantly time. Just because your not an ASE mechanic, your time is still worth something. And even if your not getting paid, the knowledge you gain is worth more than said mechanics flat rate.

There is a write up for about every process on here, and plenty of good folks to help you out if you get stuck!
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post #15 of 16 Old 03-19-2017, 04:04 PM
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Cool Re: Tib stalled itself out. wont start now.

I will hazard a guess that most of us on this forum are NOT ASE certified, I know I'm not.

I've been sorta wrenching on cars for close to 50 years, serious wrenching for 40 years along with a solid manufacturing maintenance background in multiple disciplines.

I can also guess pretty well.......

Wifes car: 2004 Tib GT, 2.7L, 5MT, 193K miles, medium blue, basically stock.
My car: 1998 Legacy GT wagon, 2.5L, 5MT, 176K miles, "Quicksilver", not stock and not slow...
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Re: Tib stalled itself out. wont start now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
I will hazard a guess that most of us on this forum are NOT ASE certified, I know I'm not.

I've been sorta wrenching on cars for close to 50 years, serious wrenching for 40 years along with a solid manufacturing maintenance background in multiple disciplines.

I can also guess pretty well.......
I am not ASE certified myself, but I do have many GM and Ford certifications (I have full dealer level access to both). Those came a couple decades after wrenching on everything from a very young age. You know, back before YouTube lol.

Speaking of lack of resources;
Here is my impression of R&Ring an engine according to Chilton/ Hayes
1. Disconnect battery, neg side first.
2. Drain coolant
3. Unplug wiring
4. Remove engine
5. Installation is reverse and removal

*always use jack stands as cars are heavy
**do no attempt to lick both battery terminals as this may cause death
***gasoline is flammable. Do not use kerosene lanterns to illuminate engine compartment
****Ethylene glycol is toxic, but sweet to the taste. Do not leave unattended around animals or infants

Oppps, got off topic. Anyway, i appreciate the time you dedicate to helping out.

And if your manufacturing background includes machining, water jets or custom fab, you will have to PM me some time
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