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post #1 of 14 Old 01-01-2013, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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The definitive Boost your Beta Thread

BE SURE TO CHECK LOCAL LAWS BEFORE CHOOSING TO EMPLOY ANY OF THE FOLLOWING ADVICE, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DECISIONS YOU MAKE AND AM ONLY HERE TO OFFER INFORMATION WHICH SHOULD MAKE BUILDING EASIER.

After a lot of exploring through this section of the forum I have asked the Moderators to allow for some revamping which may clear up some questions. Prior to this thread there was one which had a list of available turbo kits for the Beta engine, however about 90% of the information no longer pertinent in that many of the companies were out of business or provided questionable customer service.

I am going to lay out as much information as possible to make everyone's lives easier when planning a turbo build and commencing with a project. The previous thread available here in the F/I section was very out of date and reaching anyone who started the thread was impossible so feel free to contact me with any i4 turbo questions and I will be happy to try and answer it. This thread is designed to get you headed down the right path and cover your basic questions, as you get further into your project there will be other minor things you discover of course.


There will always be costs which you may forget about while planning a build and will either delay your project for a few weeks or steal cash from your wallet right away so be prepared for a few of the following.

Gaskets - Never reuse! The amount of work you will be doing doesnt need to increase because you thought a few dollars could be saved on that pesky gasket.
Head Gasket - This should be a given no to reuse so figure about $50 for it as well
Head Bolts - About $60 per set...if you reuse these they will torque different than if new and not quite work properly. At that point you will need a new set of bolts anyhow and perhaps head gasket at the same time.
Bearings - Replacing internals? Yep a brand new set of bearings will be required even if they have no visible damage.
Machining - Ugh! If you are replacing your pistons then send your block to be honed and inspected. I paid $500 for the basic work to be done (cylinder bore, steel blast the block, hot tank both block and head, parallel deck the block, resurface head and micropolish the crankshaft.) TRUST me you dont want to tear your entire engine apart again because you didnt ensure the block or head was true. Might also need your flywheel resurfaced.
Fluids - All the ones you drained out have to go back in...so dont try and be cheap with things like transmission fluid or engine oil. Do your install when you need a regular oil change anyhow, and prepare to use synthetic from now on.
Belts - This would be a perfect time to replace those belts that might be wearing out.
Timing belt kit and water pump - This is the perfect time to take care of this kind of maintenance. Should run you about $100
Seals - Not the cute furry kind but the ones that hold oil in, for instance axle seals. They are about $10 each and might possibly tear if you're not careful...while the axles are out be sure to replace the C-clips on the end of each...they lock your axles into the differential, might want them to be in good shape! Did the crankshaft come out of the engine? New rear main seal and front case seal kits will be needed.

Kspec sells rebuild kits that come with a lot of the things you could need but there is always something else, we are trying to mitigate that by making lists!

Very important things to consider before embarking:

- Will you have access to a 2nd vehicle while your Tiburon is down for extended periods of time? This is inevitable trust me.
- Do you have the proper tools and knowledge to install the kit yourself, diagnose both mechanical and electrical problems, and space to adequately work on your Paperweight?
- Is your current lifestyle going to allow for many hours away from friends and or family while you bust up your knuckles taking care of the above issues?
- Do you have a trusted mechanic to do the install if you are not capable?

If you answered yes to the above prerequisites, then proceed to the next step of planning:

- What amount of power are you looking to make? This will weigh entirely on how much money you will be spending on parts to both achieve and support this goal.
- Will you have any local distributors to bring parts in within a 24-48hr time frame? Not required but immensely helpful.

When planning your build you can pick 2 of the following 3 adjectives to describe the finished product;

CHEAP, FAST,RELIABLE

Check out the i/4 engine bay thread for layout ideas while you are contemplating the build.

Do it once, do it right. Plan what you are going to do and piece together your kit.


Basic REQUIREMENTS:
Turbo
Manifold
Downpipe
Exhaust
Fuel management
Fuel injectors
Fuel delivery system (5th injector or added fuel rail)
External MAP sensor
Intercooler
Charge piping
Blow off valve
Wideband o2 sensor kit
Boost/vac gauge
Oil feed hose and restrictor
Oil drain hose (tap oil pan or block)
Coolant feed kit (if required by turbo)
Upgraded clutch (Std Trans)
Upgraded oil cooler (Auto Trans)
Stiffer engine mounts (solid or polyurethane)
Colder heat range spark plugs (I use BKR7)

Optional :
Exhaust gas temperature gauge
Oil pressure gauge
Catch can
External wastegate
Manual boost controller
Limited slip differential (LSD)
Low compression pistons
Connecting rods
Valvetrain components
Cams
Porting
Large bore throttle body
Return fuel system conversion (03+ have returnless system)
Fuel pump
Brakes

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post #2 of 14 Old 01-01-2013, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Re: The definitive Boost your Beta Thread

Turbo:
Remember this is just a single piece of your build, it requires a lot of consideration when planning and should be purchased with your power goals in mind. However don’t base your entire build around the used turbo that you found a great deal on…spend the money and get a brand new turbo that will come with a warranty. Some people have success with knock off China built turbos but seem to be hit and miss, there are reputable companies such as Garrett, Precision, HKS…which offer a wide price range.

There are many considerations when choosing your ‘piece de resistance’ and they will effect how the car drives and how fast boost is built. Some turbos are oil lubricated and cooled while some are water cooled, some are have internal wastegates while some require external wastegating, ball bearing turbos generally spool faster yet cannot be rebuilt and are more expensive than a journal bearing turbo which can be rebuit if required…all these things will affect your manifold decision and ultimately how things are set up in the engine bay.



If you haven't read "Maximum Boost" by now then take a few seconds to learn about some turbo characteristics by CLICKING HERE

When deciding on a turbo it would be a good skill to know how to read and plot on a compressor map and what sort of effect turbine housings will have exhaust flow. Dont be one of those people to toss around terms like '.50 trim' or '360 thrust bearing' and not have any idea what they really mean.

Manifolds:

Log:
Can either be cast or made of steel piping, a cast iron manifold will obviously be the strongest and longest lasting which is why the majority of OEM turbo vehicles have them. They are strong and cost effective to produce however don’t have super model looks. A log style manifold will be made of steel piping and is generally strong however the exhaust flow is not optimal since all the exhaust gasses dump into the same area.

Treadstone Performance cast manifold. This turbo is fitted with an internal wastegate actuator, the metal rod is attached to a door inside the turbine housing outlet which allows exhaust to escape.


Jattus Log Style manifold.


Tubular:
These are generally nice to look at allow the exhaust gas time to develop as they travel towards the turbine housing. As with everything looks can be deceiving and not all pieces will perform the same. I have used an OBX manifold and it needed to be strengthened by a good welder, the welds and pipe mating was not good from the factory, I now use a Maintec manifold which has held up to a lot of abuse and holds up much better than the OBX.

OBX Manifold. This is a center mount design and places the turbo between 2nd and 3rd exhaust ports, also requires a turbo oil drain to be placed in the oil pan.


OBX fit to head.


Maintec manifold. Places the turbo centered between 3rd and 4th exhaust ports, this one is also made for an external wastegate.


Downpipe:
Should be custom made to fit your specific application, however some “kits” will come with one which will be very close to where the factory manifold bolted up. The downpipe will be the new home for o2 sensors so be sure to have adequate room to install them based on the installation instructions for each kit.

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Re: The definitive Boost your Beta Thread

Exhaust:
For a boosted engine nothing below 2.5” is recommended. There are many companies which offer cat back systems but don’t forget about the factory mid section which houses the flex pipe and cat converter. If you don’t have this made as well your system will have lots of back pressure which is not helpful for boosted engines.
There are many types available and can all be found here on the forum.

Fuel Management:
This is where a lot of attention should be dedicated, there are two different styles which will give you varying amounts of control, piggyback and standalong
A piggyback controller will allow you to retain the factory ECU settings and control fuel only while in boost with the use an external MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. There many different piggyback options such as but not limited to the AEM FIC, SMT6, SMT TF-10. If this does not offer you enough control then perhaps stepping up to a complete standalone system is the best choice.
A standalone ECU gives you 100% control over your engine sensors and eliminates the factory ECU. Doing this will also take away OBD function and also not work for auto transmissions, that part of the factory ECU must remain intact to control the shifting. This type ECU is not for everyone but some good companies to consider are Haltech and Megasquirt.
As mentioned at the top of this thread be sure to check local and state laws before deciding what type of management is best for your build.

Click this link for an ECU pinout and wire description from a 2006 Tiburon. This is MAF based however a MAP based engine will have the same wires going to the same place, the only real difference is the addition of VVT.

Fuel Injectors:
Deciding on fuel injectors is very important based on power goals and type of fuel to be used. Here is a link to a calculator which can assist in choosing flow for your injectors.
http://witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php

Fuel Delivery System:
This is how the added fuel for boost is going to reach your engine. If you choose to use a piggyback then an added 5th injector (typically very large) is going to be installed just before the throttle body and will enter the intake manifold to be distributed to each cylinder. A dual fuel rail is the most common method and gives better fuel delivery than the 5th injector. Using this method will add another injector per cylinder and they will be controlled by the fuel controller as well.

Here is the Jattus dual fuel rail system.



External MAP Sensor:
The Hyundai ECU was not designed to read anything higher than atmospheric pressure and therefor is not able to tell your Fuel Management when boost is being produced, you will need an external MAP sensor to send voltage based on pressure when you begin to boost. A GM 3-Bar External MAP Sensor will be sufficient in this matter, they can be found on eBay however there are many “GM Style” units available for cheaper than others due to them being knock off units. This is a link to DIY Autotune and they unit will work for ANY fuel controller that accepts a 0-5v input.



http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...sor-p-161.html

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Re: The definitive Boost your Beta Thread

Intercooler/piping/couplers/clamps:
Another important part of the build and will directly affect how quickly boost reaches your engine. An intercooler and piping that is too large for your turbo will increase “lag” while one that is too small will not allow the hot air leaving the turbo to be sufficiently cooled. Universal kits can be purchased on eBay and will require you to fit them to your engine bay, this is always the best way to avoid “pre made turbo kit” errors by a builder. Silicone couplers are the best to avoid swelling under heavy boost which occurs with rubber couplers and the best way to hold a coupler in place is with T-Bolt clamps. Most intercooler and piping kits come with both of these and are the best bang for the buck.
An intercooler that is 28” wide from edge of the inlet and outlet will be as wide as the radiator, universal kits should may include some 90deg couplers to get your pipes around the radiator. Here is how my piping gets routed using the 28” intercooler.


Blow Off Valve:
Not just for a cool sound but also serves to prolong the life of your turbo by releasing boost pressure from the system when you close the throttle while under boost, either during gear shift or accidental foot movement. Not all are created equal and vary by design, push and pull style exist, some use a large internal plunger or diaphragm to hold pressure when the throttle is open. Many options are available from Tial, Turbosmart, HKS, Greddy, Blitz, Synapse, TurboXS.


Wideband o2 sensor:
This is an essential to monitor AFR (air:fuel ratio) and a few options are available depending on what you are looking for. All kits do the same basic job but some offer more additional features than others, the safety of your build relies on the accuracy of fuel delivery and being able to determine that is in the hands of a single gauge, do your homework. Some examples.

AEM UEGO


NGK AFX


Innovate LC-1


Boost/Vac Gauge:
Only way to monitor how much pressure is entering your engine and just as important as the wideband gauge. Electric and mechanical gauges are the options. Mechanical requires a signal hose to be hooked into the rear of the gauge while its electronic counterpart gets its signal from an external solenoid which has a signal hose going to it. Many options out there but by this stage in your planning you will have already stumbled upon many you like

Oil and water lines:
Your turbo will be spinning at a very very alarming rate and needs both lubrication and cooling to keep it alive. As I mentioned above there are some differences between turbos and have different cooling and lubrication needs. When ordering a new turbo most distributors can direct you to what the individual requirements are for any turbo, a ball bearing turbo will generally benefit from one while a journal bearing may not require it depending on the oil pressure at the source. Turbos are either oil cooled or water cooled and will require plumbing as such, water cooled turbos require engine coolant to be fed into the turbo in order to reduce the heat created. This style turbo does not require as long of a cool down period as an oil cooled turbo. Oil drain from the turbo is gravity assisted and must be free flowing without any low spots.

Clutch (std trans):
Is the piece that holds engine power and transfers it to the transmission, without this you will not be able to play with your new build. Once slipping occurs it will not stop due to glazing of the mating surfaces. Here is a little video that will illustrate exactly how clutches work

This is what the term 'glazing' describes...here the reflection of the watch on the clutch surface.



Here is what a good and bad clutch look like. Not sure what vehicle its from but you can see the bluish hot spots on the clutch friction surface and the glazing on the disc itself.



Oil Cooler (auto trans):
Automatic transmissions work via oil pressure and like everything else under the hood of your Tiburon, it wasn’t designed to handle the power a turbo setup will create. To make it a little more accepting of the added abuse an external oil cooler can be installed to help pull the heat away, there is one built into the OEM radiator but again is only designed to handle the heat its intended for. Another video showing how torque converters work

Engine Mounts:
These little gems are VERY important when adding more torque and power, your engine will rock back and forth during hard shifts and launches and this can do more damage than you could think. I will use my car again as an example because its first hand experience, I have a billet mount in the front of the engine and a poly in the rear. Stiffer mounts will cause some vibration when idling but driving will be just as quiet as stock.

This video was taken while at the track for exactly this reason. To show what a motor does hiding under the hood.


Colder Spark Plugs:
When running boost combustion chamber temperatures rise very quickly and can cause the exposed metal tip of the spark plug to heat up more than intended which can cause detonation. If you try to use colder range plugs on a stock motor they will foul because they aren't being heated up enough, but as mentioned when you hit boost they will get the abuse they crave.

The OEM spark plugs are heat range 5, I personally use a NGK BKR7ES-11...but not everyone is like me so here is a conversion chart.





Lastly, how to see what your plugs are trying to tell you.


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Re: The definitive Boost your Beta Thread

Now if you’ve made it this far then I suppose you’re really considering tossing some boost at the very capable Beta engine sitting under the hood of your Tiburon. To this point ive supplied you with a good amount of information but there is ALWAYS one step further when it comes to this game, so if you’re pocket book can take the abuse so can the following parts.


Additional Gauges:
A variety of gauges are available so you can monitor what is happening at all times. Not two people will want the same gauges but you have options for just about everything. I personally recommend EGT to monitor exhaust temperatures and an oil pressure gauge, all this depends on the changes you are willing to make to the existing systems within the car.

Oil Catch Can:
All motors are going to create some type of oil vapor which is to be recirculated through the intake system however these vapors tend to gunk up the inside of your intake manifold and eventually get into the combustion chamber. The instant you begin to drive in boost there is going to an excess of crankcase pressure which will cause extra vapors and often very not nice liquids to infect the rest of your motor and the only way to combat this effect is to install a catch can.

What does a catch can do? Well it is a dumping ground for these vapors/oils/crud to accumulate instead of wandering around your nice shiny turbo build. As we've discussed up to this point there are parts of the Beta N/A setup that will not withstand boost and the factory PCV valve is definitely one of them, so it has to go.

This is my engine bay...which is by NO MEANS gospel when it comes to this topic but here is what I did.



- Took this style catch can and drilled a 3rd hole opposite to the 2 it already has, tapped it and installed another fitting. Clean out the inside of the catch can and stuff if about 3/4 of steel wool, this will help eliminate vapors. Now drill a hole in the top and install another fitting that a small breather filter can be secured to. (if you reference the above photo you will see my can has 3 hoses attached to it) The breather filter will help the can breathe when the turbo starts to really spin instead of sucking out every little bit of oil that plashes around the valve cover.



- Remove the threaded PCV valve from the valve cover, its the black one and I believe a 14mm wrench will do the trick.
- Install a straight brass barbed fitting.
- Run a hose from the fitting and the other nipple in the valve cover to the two original ports on the catch can
- Finally run a 3rd hose from the new fitting to the intake pipe which is your on the turbo inlet. You can't attach this hose to the intake manifold or you will lose precious boost out of the breather filter, and if you decide to not install the filter while running it to the manifold you would pressurize the crankcase...therefore defeating the purpose of all this work.

The breather filter can go wherever you want as long as it wont spill out the gunk you are trying to catch, but be careful the engine side hoses arent too close to the one going to the turbo inlet. It may suck in the vapors and oil and deposit them in your turbo and charge piping.

BE SURE THERE ARE NO LOW SPOTS IN THE HOSES COMING FROM THE VALVE COVER OR OIL WILL POOL AND YOUR CATCH CAN WILL NOT BE EFFECTIVE!!!

Manual (adjustable) Boost Controller:
Simple way to add boost pressure to your system without replacing the internal actuator or adding springs to the external wastegate. A spring and ball combo are adjustable bleed off some boost entering the body making the turbo push harder to reach the wastegate set pressure. 12psi from turbo -> into boost controller with 2psi leak -> 10psi out to wastegate

Here is a Turbosmart boost controller. Regardless of the manufacturer they will all do the same thing, you can make your own with a few small parts from Home Depot if you want to search the DIY but naturally people are drawn to shiny things.


If you dont believe me that they all do the same thing here is a cross section of what you will find on the inside of one.


External Wastegate:
This is not a requirement because a lot of turbos come with a very compact internal actuator which can be manipulated easily with the above mentioned boost controller. Compact is nice but they provide only a small port to bleed of exhaust pressure, the external wastegate has larger plungers and higher spring holding capacity than their tiny brothers. Tial, HKS Turbonetics and Turbosmart are known and trusted names however EMusa makes knock off valves which work as well, sizes vary from a 38mm to 44mm valve.

Turbosmart external gate.


Tial external gate (water cooled version)


Internal actuator.


LSD:
Take it from me the factory differential is not designed to handle extended amounts of power, it will do the job but in the end always has the potential to go KA-BOOM. Quaife and KAAZ make drop in units which replace the factory differential. I know for the Quaife unit you will require a Mitsubishi speedo gear, it is pictured on the Quaife in the picture.

Factory diff after unfortunate demise, at this point a whole new transmission was required.


Quaife option.


Rods and Pistons:
I will say that Hyundai did make a good set of internals and with a good tune can handle power up to 300whp with a safe tune, however the risk of KA-BOOM is always there when you go above and beyond their designed call of duty. A cost effective set of 1.8L rods and pistons are available, they lower compression to 7.8:1 and will take lots of boost however off boost driving power will be affected slightly. Pauter makes a very nice set of rods for the Beta motor, while there are a few options available for forged low compression pistons such as Wiseco and CP. They are made in 82mm 82.5mm and 83mm sizes. Machining will be required for pistons over 82mm.

Pauter rod and CP piston beside 2.0 Hyundai rod and piston.


Pauter Rod information card to help cut down your search time.

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Re: The definitive Boost your Beta Thread


There are members who make over 500whp with stock camshafts small amounts of port smoothing and stiffer valve springs, but some people like myself like to spend money in places where it isn’t needed which is why im coming back to be the voice of reason for people looking to do some purchasing. Ferrea makes good valvetrain components including valves (both Std and +1mm oversize), springs, seats, retainers and locks. Brian Crower does have springs available and is also a very reputable shop where some members have sent their cams to be reground.


Here is the info from Brian Crower for the valve springs;

O.D./I.D. Outer: 1.090"/.780"
Installed Height: 1.550"
Rate: 289lbs
Part #68190
Type: single
Damper" No
Free Length: 1.820"
Wire Diameter: .160"

Trust me, save your hard earned money and don’t bother with anything except valve springs and perhaps a set of regrinds if you are looking to completely customize your cylinder head.

Porting:
Imagine air being forced into the large end of a traffic cone, though the air is moving slow it will speed up as it gets further into the narrow end. This is the same principle you want to achieve when porting for boost and unless you have exhausted all other mods this is not advised, port matching and transition point smoothing is however a good thing to do and can be done with your intake manifold and throttle body at home.

BBTB (big bore throttle body)
There has been a lot of discussion about whether this is a worth while upgrade and some N/A dyno results show gains of a mere 2whp, it will however help with throttle response due to a larger volume of air entering the engine with less throttle. Keeping that in mind it may make your throttle response a little unpredictable unless you are able to tune that out with your Fuel Tuner. This is another upgrade that can wait until your build is making lots of power and it becomes a choke point, in the meantime simply removing your stock TB and polishing the inside will help along with smoothing the transition point into the manifold.

Return style fuel system:
In order to adjust your fuel pressure you will have to modify the OEM fuel system, I am going to outline what has to happen. While you are installing your new fuel pump it is best to do this if you intend to shoot for any power over 350whp. While you have the fuel pump assembly out of the tank and taken apart there will be a little grey pressure regulator that needs to be bypassed by plugging the little black hose coming out of it…this is used to bleed off any extra pressure. However you cap it is up to you but make sure its held very tight.
Here is the regulator and black bleed hose.



Here is a link to a Walbro 255lph pump install for a 2.7 V6, the process is the same except for the fact the i4 has an in-tank regulator.
Pump Replacement courtesy of r100s

At this point you will require an adjustable FPR (fuel pressure regulator) with a gauge attached to it so you can monitor the pressure and make necessary changes. There is a fuel damper in the end of the fuel rail that needs to come out and be replaced with a threaded fitting, you connect your fuel hose to that and then to your regulator. You can see the modification I did here in this picture. There is a line coming from the bottom of the regulator which travels back to the pump assembly and dumps extra fuel back into the tank…this return hose is doing the job of the one you plugged back in the pump assembly earlier.



How you decide to plumb the return line back into the tank is up to you but it has to be deep enough to prevent fuel spilling out and on to the ground. This is what I did. The black piece on the left is an external fuel filter which is attached to the feed line headed to the engine bay, the braided hose on the right is the return line and it is secured to a -6an bulkhead fitting.



Brakes:
Up to this point I've talked about parts that need to be upgraded to support extra power and have left this tidbit until the very end, this shouldn't take away from its importance however. All the power in the world is nice but if you are not able to stop once you get going its a major hazard. Brake pads and rotors will need to be inspected and changed out for better material if required, I suggest piecing together a kit with some of Hyundai's interchangeable parts from other vehicles...or purchase the 12" BBK from Kspec.

Stainless steel brake lines to replace the soft rubber ones is always a good idea to keep extra pressure going to the brakes and not swelling hoses.

Here is the stock Tiburon brake setup beside the 12" BBK

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Re: The definitive Boost your Beta Thread

So.

With all this information in your back pocket I can only urge you to study and know it, I am on my 3rd turbo setup and boosting is still relatively new to me, but tough economic times made people say YOLO and boost everything. I started back in 2006 when some complete bolt on kits were still available because making your own wasn't so user friendly, they never quite met my expectation so now I believe in piecing together your own kit, its not difficult when you know what to go looking for.

However if you decide that sourcing a few components is not for you then open Google and search for 'Jattus' you can find pre made kits, I dont know of another site offering complete kits any longer.

Visit Amazon and purchase "Maximum Boost" By Corky Bell. This is the most in depth turbo read you can find and will give you the insight to the 'why' and 'how' of building a turbo system.

I am by no means an expert in this field but I am learning every single day and only find it fair to share my findings with you.

Best of luck

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post #8 of 14 Old 01-03-2013, 07:49 AM
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Re: The definitive Boost your Beta Thread

What did you do with EGR (is there any on beta?) and did you add a Catch Can?

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post #9 of 14 Old 01-03-2013, 11:59 AM
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Re: The definitive Boost your Beta Thread

There's no EGR on the V6 nor the beta II...


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post #10 of 14 Old 01-06-2013, 01:28 PM
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Re: The definitive Boost your Beta Thread

this is great info you've collected, but i got a little question, is a FPR really needed and if so how easy is it to sort out the return fuel line?
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post #11 of 14 Old 01-06-2013, 02:03 PM
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Re: The definitive Boost your Beta Thread

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this is great info you've collected, but i got a little question, is a FPR really needed and if so how easy is it to sort out the return fuel line?
This depends on your power goals and your setup. Many people get away with an upgrade to a 190 lph fuel pump and stock FPR. Personally I have the 190lph pump with dual fuel rail setup with 4 X 440cc additional injectors and that'll provide fuelling for more than I'm willing to push the stock internals or stock automatic transmission with external trans cooler.

Tibolution budget build list: Evo tubular Turbo Manifold, Evo TD05 16G turbo, Evo Aftermarket 2.5" Down Pipe, Evo FMIC, Evo PCV, Perfect Power TF10 tuner, Custom single 3" exhaust from downpipe back, Jattus Dual Fuel rail kit and turbo oil line kit, Ford 440cc green top secondary injectors, GM 3 bar MAP sensor, Godspeed Racing HKS style BOV, ebay boost/vacuum manifold, B&M transmission cooler with fan and automatic temperature switch for auto tranny cooling
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post #12 of 14 Old 01-14-2013, 02:06 AM
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Re: The definitive Boost your Beta Thread

Excelent work!!! and very important information.

Is important say that Evolution header + turbo can be used in a beta 2 engine.

I have a tiburon turbo and next week I will install a megasquirt 3 what can you tell me about this? Recommendations?

Thanks!!

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post #13 of 14 Old 01-14-2013, 08:19 AM
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Re: The definitive Boost your Beta Thread

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Excelent work!!! and very important information.

Is important say that Evolution header + turbo can be used in a beta 2 engine.

I have a tiburon turbo and next week I will install a megasquirt 3 what can you tell me about this? Recommendations?

Thanks!!
The Mitsubishi Evo Exhaust manifold can be used but it needs modification, which many are not able to do and just want a straight bolt up with no worries.

Tibolution budget build list: Evo tubular Turbo Manifold, Evo TD05 16G turbo, Evo Aftermarket 2.5" Down Pipe, Evo FMIC, Evo PCV, Perfect Power TF10 tuner, Custom single 3" exhaust from downpipe back, Jattus Dual Fuel rail kit and turbo oil line kit, Ford 440cc green top secondary injectors, GM 3 bar MAP sensor, Godspeed Racing HKS style BOV, ebay boost/vacuum manifold, B&M transmission cooler with fan and automatic temperature switch for auto tranny cooling
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post #14 of 14 Old 01-16-2013, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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Re: The definitive Boost your Beta Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonnmad View Post
Excelent work!!! and very important information.

Is important say that Evolution header + turbo can be used in a beta 2 engine.

I have a tiburon turbo and next week I will install a megasquirt 3 what can you tell me about this? Recommendations?

Thanks!!
If you are going to install the MS3 then be sure to get the MS3X expansion card, it will give endless potential and keep you from building circuits to run various little add ons.

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