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My very first turbo build!

7K views 90 replies 9 participants last post by  dmdicks 
#1 ·
Hello everyone,

I've owned my 03 tibby for about 2 years now and i love the car. I've been skulking around the forum since the first day i got it. About a year ago i decided i wanted to boost my baby. I've always wanted a turbocharged car since i could drive and now i am actually in a position where i can start my first turbo build. The car is mostly stock right now and the only thing that I've done at the moment is a SRI and a custom 2.5" exhaust. I decided to go with a custom build instead of a pre-made kit because i can make it around my goals and just the satisfaction of a custom build. I've been picking up parts for my build for the last few months and am constantly trying to acquire more every chance i get. My power goal in the absolute end game is about 275-325 whp but plan on starting at around 3-5 psi until i can make sure everything is working the way it should for a while. I figured that this would be the perfect place to ask questions and get advice on my build as i go along.

At the moment i have:
Used Stock Evo 8 turbo
Stock Evo 8 manifold
Megan Evo 8 manifold
Megan Evo 8 downpipe
Stock Evo 8 BOV

Things i still need:
Aem fic6
Some form of injectors
All intercooler goodies
Guages (boost,afr,oil pressure)
Turbosmart IWG-75 for choosing low boost to start
Clutch (even though my sister put another stock one in while i was out of town last month and she was using it)
Forged pistons

There's a bunch of smaller things i didn't list that ill get but this is all the major stuff in my eyes that i need. I'm also probably going to do an engine rebuild once i get forged pistons and clutch just to have my engine at its best before i put the turbo in or at the same time but id rather break everything in before i go F/I since i don't think i could help myself once its in there. Finding this stuff at a reasonable price is pretty tough and I've started putting in a little extra time at work so i can get the more expensive things if i can't find them anywhere else like on this forum. One thing i know for sure is that i want to have a professional install my FIC because i'm not good with wiring and that seems to be a common problem most people have when going F/I wiring it themselves. If anyone has some of the stuff i'm missing feel free to send me a pm with a price.

But before i move any farther there is a problem my car has had for a while and its getting on my nerves and needs to go away. There is a rapid tapping between 2000-3200 rpm that happens at light throttle. It is the worst in 2nd gear and goes away for the most part in 4th and 5th. My thought was it sounds like its coming from the valves so i was thinking a lack of oil pressure so this weekend when i get home i'm putting in a genuine Hyundai oil filter(don't know what my sister had put on the car while i was gone), new valve cover gasket, and naturally a oil change to see if this will solve the problem. Anyone have ideas of what it could be?

Ill keep posting updates of whats happening and of any parts i come across
Thanks for reading me and for any help/advice anyone can give :)
 
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#4 ·
For your noise, post a video, but most of the time on the 2L, it's just the camshaft lifters that ticking. As you're rebuilding your engine, you'll have to check the clearance and put some new shims to be in the Hyundai specifications.
Check my boost thread. You're doing the same way and same goal than me except that my setup isn't an Evo one.
 
#6 ·
How many miles on your Tib? When was last timing belt change? Make sure its not a FRAM filter on there because those are GARBAGE! Did the noise just start happening after the oil change?

You've got a good start so far, only things I would add is solid motor mounts of some sort and for your power goal your going to need to run a 3" exhaust. Over 300whp a 2.5" will cause too much back pressure.
 
#7 ·
Actually I came into possession of a dsm 3 inch turbo back like a week after I had my custom one made. The muffler is pretty ginormous so I figured I could use it on another build or sell it since I'm not sure it would fit. Glad I didnt now.

Also completely forgot about motor mounts thanks for reminding me haha

My tib has around 129k and im not to sure if/when the timing belt was changed. I have all the belts I was going to put on if I had time this weekend so if I do then I might as well do the timing belt along with then.
 
#8 ·
The noise has existed for a while now. At least 4 months minimum. My sister took it to a grease monkey for an oil change when she noticed it hit 3000 on the trip odometer and got all the fluids flushed and.filled so im not to sure what filters they use. I would guess.a.crappy one. That was about 2 months ago.
 
#9 ·
It will for sure be a crappy filter from 'The Monkey'. Hate that place lol.

Your engine is officially a ticking time bomb! Get the Timing belt, timing pullies, and water pump replaced ASAP. Make sure your engine is 100% healthy BEFORE you even try to throw boost into the mix.

Like was mentioned the tic could be excessive cam lobe to tappet clearance, but you would have to pull the cam cover off and have all the tools like a feeler gauge and a repair manual to measure them. Hopefully its just ****** oil and oil filter. Does your oil idiot light flash or anything after start up?
 
#10 ·
The only thing the oil light does on start up is it stays on for a couple of seconds then goes away. I didnt.think that it was a bad thing.

So now im defiantly going to make time to change all my belts and all that this saturday. Ive changed the timing chain on my honda nighthawk and GSXR before but never done a car so its a little intimidating but im sure if I take my time and label everything I can do it.
 
#11 ·
Timing belt, read up in the DIY for your engine, pretty much covers everything you need to know. Peeps have added info/thoughts over time to make the original DIY even better.

Rod/main bearing noise vs. cam clearance....... rod and bearing noise are more of a "hard hit"/knock (which in bad cases can trip a "knock CEL") vs. cam clearance/sticking valve which is more of a "tick". Classic tick in a Tib (due to wrong oil filter) usually lasts the first few seconds on startup until HLA's pump up.

Since you indicate the noise was BEFORE the last oil change, get a better handle on the noise and when it happens. Also check your oil level, low level/thin oil may create noise at higher revs. Rod/bearing noise is more load (high) or warm/thin oil or low oil pressure. Do you have an oil pressure gauge?
 
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#13 ·
Ah............ right you are.....
 
#15 ·
I would stick to what the manual calls for, especially as the miles buildup.
 
#17 ·
Well I got my all 4 belts done, water pump, and oil filter on. It was a pain in the arse but I got it done. The amount of room to work is laughable. Some places you could barely fit a finger much less tools but after 10ish hours it was done. Nothing more nerve racking than starting.the engine.after that.

But after all that I can say that the car feels a lot smoother. I can't remember the last time it felt this good. The only bad.thing is that tapping.sounds still exists but it's much much quieter now. Still hear it but across less rpm range and it's not as loud as it was.before.

Think my next step is to inspect the valves and make such everything looks good.

Where are you in CO? I live in Centennial.
I live in Littleton off of santa fe and hampden :D
 
#19 ·
We totally should do a Colorado tibby meet. I remember seeing a thread about Colorado tibd a while back. Don't know how many of them still have theirs.

Yea I put a wood block and a jack under the oil pan to jack it up and down. Don't think I could have done it without it.
 
#20 ·
So i found a short block with 15k miles on it and it has 82.5mm cp forged pistons in it. It's gonna be about $800 for the short block and shipping. What are your guys opinion on this? Think it is worth the money to get it ? Anything I should ask the guy? Just don't want to over pay or get ripped off.

Also in the event I do get it what will it be like driving with low compression before I get the turbo on? I know I'll lose some power, will that just a disaster to drive with for a while and should I get the aem fic before putting it in so I can time it and not hurt anything?

Sorry for all the questions just want to do it right the first time and not blow anything up.
 
#21 ·
by short block do you just mean the engine block that contains the crank, stock rods, and forged pistons?

Does it have anything else like the oil pump and pan? Do you know what other specs it has like bearing size and type?

Also what is the compression ratio of the pistons? if its below 9.1:1 then yeah the already suggish beta engine will be a turd without forced air, but it should be driveable.

Just note that anything its missing will either have to be bought or transfered from your current engine.

FYI...CP pistons by themselves are about 600-700 bucks so provided the block was built correctly its not a bad deal.
 
#22 ·
Yea i think the compression ratop is like 8.8 around there he said. It does come with the pistons, stock rods, and crank. I asked what else it came with and am waiting for a reply. It ran on an auto turbo tib at 287whp I beleive. Before I even swap everything I want to get a clutch so I can get that all done without having to pull it twice. Now I'm thinking I should just throw everything on the short block and put it all in at once after I pull it and transfer everything. We shall see what happens. I'm pretry excited getting everything together and in order.

Anyone recommend a clutch for my power goal. Not looking to spend a strong bucks but be able to handle max 350 (probably closer to 300) and be able to dump it around 2500rpm without ruining it?
 
#23 ·
You'll have to pay to play as far as clutches go. When you say a max of 350 that bhp or whp? There's a BIG difference although most clutches are rated at flywheel torque capacity. At 2500 rpm you won't really be in any sort of boost so most Stage 3 & 4 clutches from Spec and Clutchmasters should hold that just fine.

Be sure to stick with name brands as generic clutches will grenade on you. Trust me on that one! Also stay away from Southbend/DXD Racing clutches. Those are just garbage!

How many miles on the short block? If you do buy it be sure to have it professionally inspected to make sure everything is within spec.
 
#25 ·
It's been a while but I've slowly been acquiring parts for my build. Since my last post I've gotten an AEM FIC 6, 630cc Evo X injectors, Turbosmart dual stage boost controller, a short block with cp pistons a 28x7x2.5 intercooler,and a AEM vacuum/boost gauge.*

All that's really left is a clutch, Turbosmart iwg75, charge piping, oil/water lines and something to hold all the gauges. I also plan on getting a oil pressure gauge a little later on and forged pistons if any come up for sale.* But hopefully I'll start putting everything together in the next 2-3 months.

But i did have a couple questions before I go on and get anything else.
1.For anyone running an evo setup do you know what charge pipes I'll need to hook everything up?
*2.I'm planning on getting my oil from the top corner of the engine with a 4an line and back to the top of the oil pan with a 10an line. But I'm not sure what all fittings,adapters, and restrictor I'll need.
3.I'm struggling to figure out the coolant lines. I was thinking of T-ing into the hose that warms the throttle body but I'm not sure if it would provide adequate cooling. Also have no clue where I would run the return.
 
#26 ·
So in the 1st paragraph you say you have a short block with CP pistons but then you say "and forged pistons if any come up for sale." Which is it lol?

Using the throttle body hoses is fine for coolant, not the best but fine.

For charge piping nobody makes a kit so you'll have to either fab something up yourself of take it somewhere to have it done. Same goes for the downpipe.
 
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