O2 sensor and bank response questions - New Tiburon Forum : Hyundai Tiburon Forums
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 03-18-2017, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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O2 sensor and bank response questions

When I first bought my 05 Tibby 2.0 the check engine light came on after 2 days. I had unplugged the battery to do some pulling of a ton of wiring left by the previous owner so it reset the light and I got no codes on my scanner. Almost 2 weeks go by with no check engine light and then boom today it comes back on. I run my scanner and get 3 codes. my scanner doesnt give me the codes it just gives me the description, there might be a place to see it but I just got the scanner so I havent messed with it much.

The codes I get are
"O2 Sensor Circuit"
"Slow Response Bank 1"
"Sensor 1"

I looked around on here and seen some people with exhaust leaks and holes in the flex pipe and such. While sometimes I can smell a little exhaust fumes when starting the car, I can't see a leak anywhere.. I have noticed that this 2.0 does seem to idle a lot lower than my old '06 2.7 did. It idles around 600rpm, but it stays extremely steady with no bouncing at all. I usually just leave the air on since it jumps up about another 150-200rpm and idles a little better at stops.

Just wondering if any of you guys might have any suggestions before I replace the O2 sensor. Thanks!!
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post #2 of 11 Old 03-18-2017, 04:02 PM
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Re: O2 sensor and bank response questions

Get the front of the car up (ramps?), start it, have a helper block off the tailpipe (rag, heavy gloves, etc.), you get underneath and listen for/feel for exhaust leaks.
Yes, the exhaust gets hot, but the blocked tailpipe makes leaks more noticeable. Fits as needed.

As to your scanner, never saw one that only gave descriptions, I have seen a lot that only give codes.

Wifes car: 2004 Tib GT, 2.7L, 5MT, 188K miles, medium blue, basically stock.
My car: 1998 Legacy GT wagon, 2.5L, 5MT, 176K miles, "Quicksilver", not stock and not slow...
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post #3 of 11 Old 03-18-2017, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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Re: O2 sensor and bank response questions

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Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
Get the front of the car up (ramps?), start it, have a helper block off the tailpipe (rag, heavy gloves, etc.), you get underneath and listen for/feel for exhaust leaks.
Yes, the exhaust gets hot, but the blocked tailpipe makes leaks more noticeable. Fits as needed.

As to your scanner, never saw one that only gave descriptions, I have seen a lot that only give codes.
I will definitely try that and see what happens, I have some ramps. I ran the scanner again and realized I was just too stuck on looking at the description to see the code that was twice the font size. Dreaded P0133 code I see a lot of posts on here about. Seen a few with easy fixes such as just a new OEM O2 sensor to a flex pipe fixing it. Seen some where they did both of those plus more and still didn't fix it. I never had this problem with my '06 SE! Just wish I realized how deep the water on that road was before I realized these sharks don't swim lol!

I took these pics from my scanner if anyone knows if anything here looks off or if it helps anyone identify the problem.
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post #4 of 11 Old 03-18-2017, 04:42 PM
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Re: O2 sensor and bank response questions

I was battling a slow response code for my tib for months. I couldn't find anything wrong, ran good, etc. etc. What ended up fixing it for me was simply putting dielectric grease in the connector, it's been several months later and it's still working fine with no codes.

bear in mind, I also have a clogged/melted/something wrong with the cat on the same bank that the code was popping up on.

It's worth a shot before replacing any parts. If you do decide to replace the o2 sensor at some point (in my experience it's usually isn't the problem) make sure to go with NTK, tibs don't seem like non-oem sensors that much.

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post #5 of 11 Old 03-18-2017, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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Re: O2 sensor and bank response questions

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Originally Posted by The_Evenger View Post
I was battling a slow response code for my tib for months. I couldn't find anything wrong, ran good, etc. etc. What ended up fixing it for me was simply putting dielectric grease in the connector, it's been several months later and it's still working fine with no codes.

bear in mind, I also have a clogged/melted/something wrong with the cat on the same bank that the code was popping up on.

It's worth a shot before replacing any parts. If you do decide to replace the o2 sensor at some point (in my experience it's usually isn't the problem) make sure to go with NTK, tibs don't seem like non-oem sensors that much.
If it worked for you I might as well give that a shot first! Can't be too upset if a $1 and some change fix don't work lol.

I seen on ebay I could get an OEM O2 sensor in a pretty Hyundai box straight from South Korea for $60.. NTK will work too?? I found one from them on ebay for $45. They definitely look different thought. The wiring connector is the same but on the other end just where all the holes are placed on the top of it. I'll attach pics so you can see what I mean. the NTK one has the holes placed all around the cylinder on the end while the Hyundai OEM one has them all on the end of that cylinder.
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post #6 of 11 Old 03-18-2017, 05:44 PM
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Re: O2 sensor and bank response questions

You are looking at "freeze frame data", basically what the car/engine were doing at the time it tripped the code.

You should be able to see active codes as well as pending codes. Pending means the ECU saw something but not bad enough/enough times to trip the CEL.

You may also be able to watch realtime data as well, that is a nice feature.

As to O2 sensors, keep in mind there are upstream (bank x, sensor 1) and downstream (bank x, sensor 2) sensors. They ARE different.

Upstreams may have different part numbers due to wire harness length although the actual sensor may be the same, same for downstream.

BTW, what scanner is that? Looks like an Autel, my son has a 300(?) and I have a ms310 plus a newer one. My sons does not do realtime.

Wifes car: 2004 Tib GT, 2.7L, 5MT, 188K miles, medium blue, basically stock.
My car: 1998 Legacy GT wagon, 2.5L, 5MT, 176K miles, "Quicksilver", not stock and not slow...
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Last edited by Charlie-III; 03-18-2017 at 05:58 PM.
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post #7 of 11 Old 03-18-2017, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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Re: O2 sensor and bank response questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
You are looking at "freeze frame data", basically what the car/engine were doing at the time it tripped the code.

You should be able to see active codes as well as pending codes. Pending means the ECU saw something but not bad enough/enough times to trip the CEL.

You may also be able to watch realtime data as well, that is a nice feature.

As to O2 sensors, keep in mind there are upstream (bank x, sensor 1) and downstream (bank x, sensor 2) sensors. They ARE different.

Upstreams may have different part numbers due to wire harness length although the actual sensor may be the same, same for downstream.

BTW, what scanner is that? Looks like an Autel, my son has a 300(?) and I have a ms310 plus a newer one. My sons does not do realtime.
Both of those I posted were for the upstream according to the ebay ads. And they both have the same wire connector and the downstream ones I seen looked like a different connector.

The scanner is just a cheap $20 Hyper Tough brand I picked up at walmart cause I got tired of running to the auto parts store or waiting to go into work lol.
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post #8 of 11 Old 03-18-2017, 06:50 PM
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Re: O2 sensor and bank response questions

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Originally Posted by iBrokeDown View Post
I seen on ebay I could get an OEM O2 sensor in a pretty Hyundai box straight from South Korea for $60.. NTK will work too?? I found one from them on ebay for $45. They definitely look different thought.
The NTK/NGK should work fine. Your ebay-fu is weak...

Genuine Oxygen Sensor O2 near Manifold Tucson SportageTiburon 2.0L [3921023710] | eBay

New NGK/NTK Oxygen Sensor 25606 For Hyundai & Kia 2003-2009 | eBay
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post #9 of 11 Old 03-19-2017, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Re: O2 sensor and bank response questions

Bahaha!! Very much appreciated. And that OEM one from FourGreen will ship a whole lot quicker than one from Korea! If that don't fix the light I'm just waiting until I can hopefully find another SE and get rid of this 4 banger. I miss my 6-speed
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post #10 of 11 Old 03-20-2017, 09:20 AM
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Re: O2 sensor and bank response questions

Poor response in the precat sensor can be a bad connection or a pre cat exhaust leak. Take the heat shield off and see if you see any cracks in the top of the exhaust manifold or any black soot stains on the underside of the shield. How many miles on the Tib?

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post #11 of 11 Old 03-20-2017, 10:21 AM
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Re: O2 sensor and bank response questions

The sensors don't last forever. I had to replace the upstream sensor on our 05 Elantra at around 120k.
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