I installed my Neo where the clock and fog light switch was. I seen someone else do it on here and it came out really nice. To get the cutout perfect I took the plastic piece to work and milled it out.. I also installed my new JVC KDNX5000 in-dash that took FOREVER since it is slightly bigger then a single din. The multi-gauges had to be trimmed down to the bare minimum and remounted to get it all to fit. Well worth it, DVD, navigation, and 40G hard-drive, sweet. Here is the before and after.
Some people wanted to know how I did the Neo install into the center fascia. Here is what I did.
1. Make a template of the Neo on paper by tracing around it.
2. With the paper template mark the cutout of the neo with a pencil on the fascia.
3. Now the hard part, milling out the fascia. I did this at my work because they had a hand operated mill I could use. You could probably take it to a machine shop to do for fairly cheap.
4. Get a small sheet of aluminum sheet metal and cut out a rectangle the size of the neo but a little longer left and write for the mounting screws.
5. Notch a cutout for the cable to come through.
6. Get some quick curing 2 part epoxy for plastic, 4 plastic threaded studs, and 8 nuts.
7. Drill 4 holes for the studs. Try to have it so the studs go into a square hole so the epoxy doesn't run everywhere.
8. Atach the 4 studs to the sheet metal
9. Use some good 3M double sided tape and attach the Neo to the sheet metal.
10. Adjust the height of each stud until the Neo is flush on the front of the fascia. It doesn't have to be perfect yet.
11. Mix up some 2 part epoxy and fill in the rectangle holes the studs are in.
12. Let dry.
13. Adjust the Neo to be flush and tighten the nuts. With the plastic studs it will not take much. Could probably use metal studs if you want.
14. Then plan a day of agony wiring the thing to the ECU!!! LOL
Bye bye Neooooo.... hello AEM F/IC-6. I had problems with the AFR going extremely lean when taking off slowly or getting on the gas slightly. It only lasted for a second or two but isn't good. It sometimes caused the car to almost die. The Neo just doesn't have the options needed to tune a turbo correctly, at least I'm hoping that's the problem. I'm thinking the Neo's low throttle settings at -47% to get my long term fuel trims to 0 could partially be to blame. Since the Neo modifies the MAF signal to compensate for my bigger injectors, the ECU also modifies other thing, like timing. The FIC modifies the individual injector pulse widths instead of the MAF signal to compensate for larger injectors. Much better. The FIC also can retard timing, adjust fuel based on other settings like MAP readings, and can modify the signals coming from 2 of the stock narrow band O2 sensors to whatever you want. Waaayyyy better than the neo.
The install is still going on. I'm hoping to have it done by the weekend. Here are some pics of the progress.
Wire Mess - Just finished cutting, soldering, and heat shrinking all of the connections...25 to be exact. LOL
Cleaned up the wire routing
ECU connected. Notice I cut the plastic piece that goes across for the glove box. Makes connecting the ECU tons easier.
Soldering wires to the ECU
I thought I would show the "proper" way to make the connections to the ECU. I'll show how I intercepted one of the fuel injector wires. Tapping into a wire is simular only you don't cut the wire in half, instead you just strip the insulation back about half an inch.
Cut the wire in half about 2 to 3 inches from the connector then strip the wires about half an inch.
Twist the two wires your connecting together. Having a good mechanical joint is very important. This also makes soldering easier since you don't need to try and hold the wires together as you solder.
Hold the soldering iron on the twisted wires and add solder a little at a time. Make sure to leave the soldering iron on the wires the whole time. If the insulation quickly starts to melt then the iron is way to hot. The solder you use should contain flux in it. The smoke you see when you add solder is the flux burning off. The flux is what helps the solder flow and make a good connection. Once the solder burns off, which only takes a couple of seconds, then the solder will not flow very well. So if you add a little bit of solder at a time then you will always have fresh flux going into the joint. Here is what a good solder joint should look like, nice and shiny. If it white in color then it is a bad solder joint due to not having enough flux.
I recommend using heat shrink tubing to insulate the solder joints, especially in cramped spaces like the ECU. Just make sure you put the heat shrink tubing on before you solder the wires together. You can use the a heat gun, lighter, or soldering iron to shrink it. Electrical tape will also work but is hard to do in tight places.
Repeat steps 2-4 for the other wire and you done.
Running the Vacuum Line
I decided to run the vacuum line to the FIC's MAP sensor about the same way I ran the rest of my wires from the engine bay to inside the car. I did take a short cut along the firewall.
First step was removing the driver's side fender.
I then drilled a couple of holes on the inside fender near the firewall. Right before the tubing goes into the fender I switched from my red 1/4 tubing to the smaller black tubing that came with the FIC. But I put about a 1" piece of red tubing over the black to help insulate it where it is touching the metal.
I then ran the smaller black tubing out of the inside fender and into the inside of the car. I used a small piece of 3/8" fuel line to insulate it where it goes through the inside fender. I used a grommet for the hole I drilled going into the inside of the car. You can see it next to the large grommet that is for all of the wires.
Once inside the car I switched back to my red tubing for going to the FIC.
Mounting the FIC
There isn't much room behind the glove box to mount anything. My solution was to cut out the metal piece that looks to be used for bracing.
Once gone the FIC fit in its place nicely. I was lazy so I just used some white wire I had laying around to secure it to the car.