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post #1 of 218 Old 02-11-2009, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

'G'-Rage

Here is the turbo build journal for my 2006 6-Speed V6. At first I just wanted to share some pics of the progress and how I went about doing my custom setup. Once I was done, it basically turned into a DIY. I'm by no means an expert and some of the things I did might not be the best way. I researched, and researched, and researched for months and I'm still learning. So before anyone decides to go F/I they need to do the same. Hopefully this journal will help everyone out and maybe speed up the learning process. It took me about 2 months to complete, but I only worked on it during the weekends. Parts total so far...$5,124.04.














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2006 V6 6-speed Turbo @ 6psi
Garrett Turbo, Custom 3" Exhaust, SSA Headers, Tial Wastegate and BOV, Treadstone Intercooler, Zeitronix Wideband, AEM FIC, Fidanza Flywheel, ClutchMasters Stage 3 Clutch
Zefiro Rhonda Bumpers, GT Tech Type2 Sideskirts, Tenzo Passion-5 Rims, Eibach Pro Springs

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post #2 of 218 Old 02-11-2009, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

Tools
I attempted to do all the custom intercooler and exhaust piping myself even though I've never welded before. There are different processes you can do to weld the piping. TIG would be the cleanest looking, but difficult to learn, hard to tack things in the car, and expensive. MIG is probably the best choice, easiest to learn but not the prettiest if your not that good. Welding steel is fairly easy, but aluminum.....what a pain in the $#&*%@. Feeding the soft wire through the 10' cord is almost impossible. I really needed to buy the $250 MIG welding gun with the wire feeder on it, but I just couldn't justify spending the money just for this project. And even when I could get the wire to feed the welds were not pretty. I ended up just tacking all the aluminum and had someone else TIG weld it for me. Another option would have been to just use silicon couplers everywhere and not weld anything. Here is a pic of the welder I'm using, it is a Hobart Handler 135.


What I needed for MIG welding:
1. Tri-Mix(90% helium / 7.5% argon / 2.5% CO2) shielding gas for stainless steel. $280 to rent the tank and $80 for the gas. You can get the $280 back if you return the tank.
2. .030" 308 or 309 stainless steel wire. $18 online for 2 lbs. Needed 2 rolls to do the entire exhaust. I read 309 wire is for 409 stainless steel and 308 wire is for 304 stainless steel.
3. 100% Argon shielding gas for the aluminum. I bought a small 20CF empty tank online for $70 then exchanged it at my local welding supply store for $17. Not the best way to do it. Probably should have just rented a tank for that as well.
4. .030" 4043 aluminum wire. $13 online for 2 lbs.
5. 75% Argon / 25% CO2 shielding gas for mild steel. Once again, I bought a small 20CF empty tank online for $70 then exchanged it at my local welding supply store for $17.
6. .030" mild steel wire. $6 online for 2 lbs.
7. Auto-darkening Helmet. $120 locally. Well worth the money.

And here are some other necessities, a hand grinder, and miter saw with a metal cutting disk. That miter saw makes cutting the pipe sooooo easy. I also bought a step drill bit which cuts holes very well, expensive but well worth it.




Battery Relocation
I just got the cheap kit from Summit and it seems to be working out good. I ran the power wire through the big drivers side grommet behind the driver's side wheel well, along the side of the car under the carpet, under the drivers seat, up under the back seats, across to the passengers side, then out the cover for the car jack. The wire was just barely long enough.


Here are some pics of how I connected to the original battery post. I think I just bolted on my own terminal block that I bought from Lowes.




Gauges
I went with the 3 pod pillar from Glow Shift and it looks nice. I have an ProSport oil pressure gauge, ProSport boost gauge and a Zeitronix wideband/boost/EGR gauge.


I found that the Prosport gauges didn't adjust its color correctly when I turned the lights on and off. When connected the way they say to, it will change from white to amber when the head lights are turned on, but get stuck on amber when the lights are turned off. It turns out the gauges need a 12V signal to turn on white and a separate 12V signal to turn on Amber. All the Tib has is 12V when the lights are on and 0V when the lights are off. So I made a circuit with a transistor to create 12V when the lights are at 0V. I don't know why I made a vid of them working but I did.
Video: Gauges In Action




Zeitronix Controller
The Zeitronix is stuffed behind the pop-off panel in the dash next to the drivers side door.




Oil Pressure Sensor
I wasn't impressed with the oil filter sandwich plate I got from Prosport. Only about half of the rubber seal actually makes contact with the engine. And after only having it on for about 1000 miles, The nut that holds the plate on was loose. It hasn't leaked but I'm sure it would have eventually if I didn't catch the nut being loose. And the wire connections are just screw terminals so they are exposed to the elements which isn't good.


The first time I tested it out, I thought the pressure sensor was broken because the pressure was pegged, over 100psi. Turns out that tibs just have really high pressure when they are cold. Once it was good and warmed up it falls down to around 35psi at idle.


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2006 V6 6-speed Turbo @ 6psi
Garrett Turbo, Custom 3" Exhaust, SSA Headers, Tial Wastegate and BOV, Treadstone Intercooler, Zeitronix Wideband, AEM FIC, Fidanza Flywheel, ClutchMasters Stage 3 Clutch
Zefiro Rhonda Bumpers, GT Tech Type2 Sideskirts, Tenzo Passion-5 Rims, Eibach Pro Springs

Last edited by MotoX244; 05-21-2009 at 07:27 PM.
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post #3 of 218 Old 02-11-2009, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

Fuel Tuner
I installed my Neo where the clock and fog light switch was. I seen someone else do it on here and it came out really nice. To get the cutout perfect I took the plastic piece to work and milled it out.. I also installed my new JVC KDNX5000 in-dash that took FOREVER since it is slightly bigger then a single din. The multi-gauges had to be trimmed down to the bare minimum and remounted to get it all to fit. Well worth it, DVD, navigation, and 40G hard-drive, sweet. Here is the before and after.


Some people wanted to know how I did the Neo install into the center fascia. Here is what I did.
1. Make a template of the Neo on paper by tracing around it.
2. With the paper template mark the cutout of the neo with a pencil on the fascia.
3. Now the hard part, milling out the fascia. I did this at my work because they had a hand operated mill I could use. You could probably take it to a machine shop to do for fairly cheap.
4. Get a small sheet of aluminum sheet metal and cut out a rectangle the size of the neo but a little longer left and write for the mounting screws.
5. Notch a cutout for the cable to come through.
6. Get some quick curing 2 part epoxy for plastic, 4 plastic threaded studs, and 8 nuts.
7. Drill 4 holes for the studs. Try to have it so the studs go into a square hole so the epoxy doesn't run everywhere.
8. Atach the 4 studs to the sheet metal
9. Use some good 3M double sided tape and attach the Neo to the sheet metal.
10. Adjust the height of each stud until the Neo is flush on the front of the fascia. It doesn't have to be perfect yet.
11. Mix up some 2 part epoxy and fill in the rectangle holes the studs are in.
12. Let dry.
13. Adjust the Neo to be flush and tighten the nuts. With the plastic studs it will not take much. Could probably use metal studs if you want.
14. Then plan a day of agony wiring the thing to the ECU!!! LOL



Bye bye Neooooo.... hello AEM F/IC-6. I had problems with the AFR going extremely lean when taking off slowly or getting on the gas slightly. It only lasted for a second or two but isn't good. It sometimes caused the car to almost die. The Neo just doesn't have the options needed to tune a turbo correctly, at least I'm hoping that's the problem. I'm thinking the Neo's low throttle settings at -47% to get my long term fuel trims to 0 could partially be to blame. Since the Neo modifies the MAF signal to compensate for my bigger injectors, the ECU also modifies other thing, like timing. The FIC modifies the individual injector pulse widths instead of the MAF signal to compensate for larger injectors. Much better. The FIC also can retard timing, adjust fuel based on other settings like MAP readings, and can modify the signals coming from 2 of the stock narrow band O2 sensors to whatever you want. Waaayyyy better than the neo.

The install is still going on. I'm hoping to have it done by the weekend. Here are some pics of the progress.

Wire Mess - Just finished cutting, soldering, and heat shrinking all of the connections...25 to be exact. LOL


Cleaned up the wire routing


ECU connected. Notice I cut the plastic piece that goes across for the glove box. Makes connecting the ECU tons easier.


ECU mounted.




Soldering wires to the ECU
I thought I would show the "proper" way to make the connections to the ECU. I'll show how I intercepted one of the fuel injector wires. Tapping into a wire is simular only you don't cut the wire in half, instead you just strip the insulation back about half an inch.

1. Cut the wire in half about 2 to 3 inches from the connector then strip the wires about half an inch.


2. Twist the two wires your connecting together. Having a good mechanical joint is very important. This also makes soldering easier since you don't need to try and hold the wires together as you solder.


3. Hold the soldering iron on the twisted wires and add solder a little at a time. Make sure to leave the soldering iron on the wires the whole time. If the insulation quickly starts to melt then the iron is way to hot. The solder you use should contain flux in it. The smoke you see when you add solder is the flux burning off. The flux is what helps the solder flow and make a good connection. Once the solder burns off, which only takes a couple of seconds, then the solder will not flow very well. So if you add a little bit of solder at a time then you will always have fresh flux going into the joint. Here is what a good solder joint should look like, nice and shiny. If it white in color then it is a bad solder joint due to not having enough flux.


4. I recommend using heat shrink tubing to insulate the solder joints, especially in cramped spaces like the ECU. Just make sure you put the heat shrink tubing on before you solder the wires together. You can use the a heat gun, lighter, or soldering iron to shrink it. Electrical tape will also work but is hard to do in tight places.


5. Repeat steps 2-4 for the other wire and you done.



Running the Vacuum Line
I decided to run the vacuum line to the FIC's MAP sensor about the same way I ran the rest of my wires from the engine bay to inside the car. I did take a short cut along the firewall.

First step was removing the driver's side fender.


I then drilled a couple of holes on the inside fender near the firewall. Right before the tubing goes into the fender I switched from my red 1/4 tubing to the smaller black tubing that came with the FIC. But I put about a 1" piece of red tubing over the black to help insulate it where it is touching the metal.


I then ran the smaller black tubing out of the inside fender and into the inside of the car. I used a small piece of 3/8" fuel line to insulate it where it goes through the inside fender. I used a grommet for the hole I drilled going into the inside of the car. You can see it next to the large grommet that is for all of the wires.


Once inside the car I switched back to my red tubing for going to the FIC.



Mounting the FIC
There isn't much room behind the glove box to mount anything. My solution was to cut out the metal piece that looks to be used for bracing.


Once gone the FIC fit in its place nicely. I was lazy so I just used some white wire I had laying around to secure it to the car.


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2006 V6 6-speed Turbo @ 6psi
Garrett Turbo, Custom 3" Exhaust, SSA Headers, Tial Wastegate and BOV, Treadstone Intercooler, Zeitronix Wideband, AEM FIC, Fidanza Flywheel, ClutchMasters Stage 3 Clutch
Zefiro Rhonda Bumpers, GT Tech Type2 Sideskirts, Tenzo Passion-5 Rims, Eibach Pro Springs

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post #4 of 218 Old 02-11-2009, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
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Making Room
With the battery and the air filter gone there is plenty of room for the turbo.


One thing I noticed that was in the way was the stupid power cable for the fuse box. So I took the fusebox cover off, unbolted the cable, rebent the end of the cable, then had it come out the side instead of the bottom. Helped completely clear the area for the turbo. You'll also notice the battery connection is just cable tied to the chassis. I'll probably get some heavy duty cable ties for it eventually, but it is out of the way.


Another small change I made was I rerouted the cables going in front of the side motor mount. Might not have needed done but I did it anyway.


To make room for the up-pipe I rerouted one of the wire looms around the radiator hose then cable tied it to the fan with a bunch of other cables. Now there is tons of room for it.


I've seen some people run the down-pipe down the back of the engine and at first I didn't think it would work, especially with 3" pipe. So I started looking at all the stuff that was in the way and how I could move it so it will fit. It looked possible so I thought I would at least give it a try. The first things I moved was the 5/8" ID radiator hose going from the water pump to the back of the engine. I think it is going to the heater core, but I'm not sure. I then went to Advance Auto Parts and they let me go back to pick out a 5/8" ID radiator hose with a sharp 90 degree bend and a 90 degree elbow. Once connected it freed up a lot of room.


The next thing that needed moved was a big wire loom with like 10 cables coming out of it. It is the cables you see above the radiator hose in the previous pic. I had to disconnect all of them and reroute it over cables for the gear shifter. There is also a plastic 90 degree housing on it that needed removed. You can see all the shiny electrical tape covering the bare wires. It had to be removed so it would bend the way I wanted. Then I also trimmed back a plastic housing that was pushing the wire loom down next to the frame so I could get some more length from it.


So here is a pic of everything out of the way. There isn't much room, but hopefully it will work. (note: the 90 degree radiator hose is removed in this pic)




Mounting the Turbo
Here is a pic of the way I decide to mount the turbo. It is kind of at a 45 degree angle splitting the difference between the bend for the compressor intake and the turbine discharge. It would have been nicer to mount it farther back but then there wouldn't be enough room for the piping coming from the intercooler to the intake manifold.


I was going back and forth on whether to mount the turbo to the engine or the chassis. I finally decided on going with the engine so I didn't have to worry about the engine rocking back and hitting the down-pipe.

The first bracket I made went from the transmission to the turbine's inlet flange. The material I used for the brackets was 3/16" thick and 3/4" wide mild steel from Menards. At least I think that was the size. It is fairly solid stuff but could still be bent in a vice with a big hammer and without being heated up.


The second bracket went from the water pump to another bolt on the turbine's Inlet flange. This helped keep the turbo from falling over.


The final bracket I made went straight up from a motor mount bolt to the oil drain flange. After that, the turbo was solid.




Air Filter Piping
The first pipe I tried to make was the 3" aluminum pipe between the air filter and turbo. Good one to learn on since you wouldn't see the weld and it only had one weld to do. That is when I realized I might not be able to do aluminum myself. The weld was so globed on that I decided to grind it down. Very ugly. Hopefully it holds but I don't think it penetrated very well. The pipe on the turbo is a 90 degree bend and the pipe on the air filter is a 45. Fits fairly good. The only thing I did to the chassis was open the hole that was already there by about a half inch.

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Mounting The Intercooler
The intercooler I went with was one many have used, the TR6 from Treadstone. It has a 22"x6"x3.5" core, 2.5" dia. in/out, and is rated for 600CFM. The first thing that had to be done was remove half of the bracket that holds the hood to make room for it. Then I bent and welded in a 3/16" x 1-1/4" piece of mild steel that ran next to the radiator to support it. Feels very solid.


Next was mounting it. I drilled and tapped 2 bolt holes in each end of the intercooler. Then I bent a bracket for each side that goes to existing bolts in the frame.


I mounted the intercooler like this because the 2.5" piping fits perfectly in the groove against the frame so I didn't have to cut on my Zefiro Rhonda bumper. I did have to have to grind on the ends of the bumper so the pipe could start bending around as soon as possible.




Intercooler Piping (Hot Side)
Here are some pics of the pipes tacked. I acutally got them back today from the machine shop that welded them and they look really really nice. Way better than I could have done.




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2006 V6 6-speed Turbo @ 6psi
Garrett Turbo, Custom 3" Exhaust, SSA Headers, Tial Wastegate and BOV, Treadstone Intercooler, Zeitronix Wideband, AEM FIC, Fidanza Flywheel, ClutchMasters Stage 3 Clutch
Zefiro Rhonda Bumpers, GT Tech Type2 Sideskirts, Tenzo Passion-5 Rims, Eibach Pro Springs

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Intercooler Piping (Cold Side)
Here is the hole I had to cut with a 2-3/4" metal hole saw.


I also had to cut the bumper and where the bumper mounts back a bit.


The first pic is my first attempt at the pipe that comes out of the intercooler. I didn't like it so I broke the tachs and redid it. I'm glad I did because it turned out much better.


For the pipe that goes to the intake I decided to move the fuse box up a little so I had more room. I just made some little brackets to hold it up higher without hitting the hood.


And here is a bunch of pics of that pipe done.




Blow Off Valve
A pic of me cutting the hole ouf for the flange and some pics with it installed. Also have a close up of the welds from a local machine shop that look really nice! I couldn't have even come close to that doing it that good.


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2006 V6 6-speed Turbo @ 6psi
Garrett Turbo, Custom 3" Exhaust, SSA Headers, Tial Wastegate and BOV, Treadstone Intercooler, Zeitronix Wideband, AEM FIC, Fidanza Flywheel, ClutchMasters Stage 3 Clutch
Zefiro Rhonda Bumpers, GT Tech Type2 Sideskirts, Tenzo Passion-5 Rims, Eibach Pro Springs

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Intercooler Piping Completed
Here's a bunch of pics with all the intercooler piping welded and installed.




Front Bumper
Here is what it looks like with the front bumper completed. I thought about painting the exposed intercooler pipes flat black, but due to overwhelming popularity, they will remain the way they are.


And here is how I mounted the wire mesh. It is attached with general purpose 2 part epoxy, the kind that cures in like 5 minutes. Cut the mesh to the right size leaving about an inch extra all around. Might need to be more depending on the type of mesh you get. Put the mesh on the bumper bending the edges around it. Then mix up some of the epoxy and put little blobs on it about every 4 inches or so. I had mine on for about 10K miles with no problems. The dried epoxy is the blob in the middle of the pic. It is hard to tell from the pic but it is covering the mesh slightly.




Headers
I got the Import Shark headers and I was kind of disappointed because Mike said they were based off the DC Headers...WRONG. They are just cheap SSA knock offs. Had the usual problems other people had, the plastic alternator cover needed trimmed back and one of the flanges was hitting the oil pan. Then when I went to put the oxygen sensors in, one was hitting the starter cover really bad. Here's a pic of them.


Let me tell you, when people said the install was hard, they meant it!!!! I had so many cuts on my hand it was ridicules and my hands were super soar the next couple of days. I only have 10,000 miles on my car and those bolts were sooo tight. The first bolt I tried taking off I mistakenly used a 12 point socket and it instantly stripped. Luckily it got it off when I switched to a 6 point. So make sure you use 6 point sockets!!! I installed mine without removing the intake manifold. It might be a little easier with it off, but with the right extensions you can get to the top header bolts from the top of the car with it still on.

Getting the AC compressor out of the way isn't hard if you know how to get to the hidden bolt. Just get all of the cables out of the way and use the box end of a 12mm wrench. Once it is loose you can just move it a couple of inches out of the way. No need to disconnect any of the lines discharging it.


To get the oxygen sensor in underneath the starter I had to dent the heat shield quite a bit. Just take a hammer and large screw driver and hit it until it fits.


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2006 V6 6-speed Turbo @ 6psi
Garrett Turbo, Custom 3" Exhaust, SSA Headers, Tial Wastegate and BOV, Treadstone Intercooler, Zeitronix Wideband, AEM FIC, Fidanza Flywheel, ClutchMasters Stage 3 Clutch
Zefiro Rhonda Bumpers, GT Tech Type2 Sideskirts, Tenzo Passion-5 Rims, Eibach Pro Springs

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Down-Pipe
When I first started this I thought it would take forever but it really wasn't that bad. Just about all of my guesses on where to make the cuts came out good and it transitions really nice. I started from the turbo and worked my way down. I have about a 1/2" gap between the pipe and a couple of wires, which should be good enough after I wrap it with some heat wrap. Here it is from the top tacked together.


And here it is coming out the bottom. If you look closely, I also welded on a tab so I can bolt the pipe to the motor mount.


And here it is out of of the car. It is made from three 45 degree bends and one 90 degree bend at the bottom.




Up-Pipe
The up-pipe has turned out to be the hardest thing to do because I decided to make the Y myself. It turned out good but took a lot of time. The bend coming out of the front header is a little sharper than I wanted but at least I don't have to worry about it hitting the ground. It only sticks out about a 1/4" below the frame. The headers have 2-1/4" flanges so I used 2-1/4" pipe from them to the Y with a 2-1/2" out.


I also cut the flanges off the headers and moved them as far back as possible. I did it on the front header so the bend on the Y wouldn't be as short. I did this on the back header because it was hitting the upper and lower oil pan. I also tilted that one a little away from the oil pans. This is a pic right after I cut one of them. I then ground out all of the pipe in the flange, then ground down the inside of the flange a little so it would slide back over the header. The flanges on the headers were a little smaller than 2-1/4" so after I ground them down it actually matched the flanges on the Y better.


Here are some pics of the completed y-pipe/up-pipe tacked together.


Starting from the turbo I used about a foot long straight piece, a 90 degree bend cut down to maybe a 75 degree bend, a small 45 degree bend cut down to around 20 degrees, y off to the front header with a 90 degree bend, and y off to the back header a straigh pipe, 4" flex pipe, then a 45 degree bend cut down to about a 20 degree bend. Here is the pipe out of the car tacked together.


Continued on page 4!!!


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2006 V6 6-speed Turbo @ 6psi
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post #9 of 218 Old 02-12-2009, 09:25 AM
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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

Whats your anticipated hp on this?


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post #10 of 218 Old 02-12-2009, 09:36 AM
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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

amazing!! good info

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post #11 of 218 Old 02-12-2009, 09:38 AM
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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

like how u did the intercooler pipe how its ran back around. one of the only few

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post #12 of 218 Old 02-12-2009, 10:54 AM
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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

Erm.... WOW!


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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

wish i would of stayed in welding class


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post #14 of 218 Old 02-12-2009, 01:30 PM
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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

that is pretty impressive, cant wait to see more pictures of the car


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post #15 of 218 Old 02-12-2009, 07:32 PM
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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

i know, be sure to post a video once you're finished too! =D


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post #16 of 218 Old 02-12-2009, 07:40 PM
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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

gorgeous build so far. And holy crap! I want to relocate my battery just for all that space it makes!!!


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post #17 of 218 Old 02-12-2009, 07:44 PM
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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

Awesome thread man and great pictures. You're doing a great job. Extremely detailed.

Alot of guys will appreciate your time and effort in this thread.

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post #18 of 218 Old 02-12-2009, 08:04 PM
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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

damn nice
diy project


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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

holy ****! props! that's a lot of good pics to look at, keep us updated!

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post #20 of 218 Old 02-13-2009, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tibbo03 View Post
Whats your anticipated hp on this?
My goal is 300HP with 8 pounds of boost.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tibber2.7 View Post
wish i would of stayed in welding class
Welding isn't bad as long as you have the right equipment. A decent MIG welder with the right gas and your good. An auto tinting helmet helps too. This is my first time welding, you just have to practice a little first to get the hang of it.


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post #21 of 218 Old 02-13-2009, 04:16 AM
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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

wow there is some serious modding going on with your car! Love it


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post #22 of 218 Old 02-13-2009, 01:33 PM
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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

very nice work so far
best of luck for happy vrom vrom


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post #23 of 218 Old 02-13-2009, 02:48 PM
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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

The build is looking great. Keep up the great work!


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post #24 of 218 Old 02-13-2009, 04:32 PM
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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

You're my hero !!!

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post #25 of 218 Old 02-13-2009, 07:10 PM
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Re: MotoX244's Turbo'd Ride

Damn man, kudo's to you for taking on such a massive project!

Can't wait to see her finished.

If you don't have anything good to say, don't say anything at all..... this site really tests my patience with that one.

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