*** 2009-03-31. VIS Cyber carbon fiber hood. ***
After carrying the hood home safely from VIS HQ after mounting it on top of my roof, I got it installed on 4/1/09 with the help of a friend. I got a pretty good price on it since I was able to skip on the shipping. Lucky for me, VIS HQ is only about 17 miles away from my home.
I was initially very torn between the VIS Cyber hood versus the Seibon/Zefiro Chaos hood. In the end, I chose the VIS Cyber despite its higher price because I felt that it would flow better with my future G-Games Thunder front bumper and because less people have this hood.
To my friend's and my pleasant surprise, the VIS Cyber fit perfectly the first time without any modifications on our part--no playing with the hood latch or the rubber bumpers. I was even able to use BOTH of my hood shocks and the hood opens and closes gently. To close the hood, it takes the SAME amount of force as my OEM hood.
The only things that weren't provided with the hood were the tiny holes where the OEM window washer hose clips would snap into and the rubber bumper that pushes in the hood security pin in the engine bay. To solve the first "problem," I just used black electrical tape to hold down the window washer line. To solve the second "problem," I used some Home Depot padding to fabricate my own ghetto rubber bumper so that it would push in the hood security pin when I close the hood. Now my car's alarm system is fully functional again.
My product review of the VIS Cyber CF hood:
My DIY for installing a CF hood:
*** 2009-05-06. FL2 Gunmetal Interior Door Latches + Silver CF-Texture Door Panel Inserts. ***
Following Stimpy2301's excellent DIY, I got my door apart and installed my new door latches and door panel inserts. It was much easier than I thought initially to take the door apart. Unlike the DIY suggests, however, I did NOT peel off the plastic sheet from the door to install the door latches--I just pulled the plastic sheet up and down as necessary to make space for the door latches without ripping anything.
To access the door panel inserts, I had to pull off the yellow styrofoam piece and also pull back on the white fuzzy sheeting. I used a can of upholstery glue to stick the silver CF-texture panel insert on top of the OEM one. I only sprayed the edges of the panel inserts, however, so I can always take it off easily should I want to in the future. I let the glue dry for about a hour and a half before installing them back in the car. Well, here are the pictures.
*** 2009-05-14. G-Games Thunder front bumper. ***
Three weeks after sending my payment, I finally got the "okay" from Mike at Import Shark to come over and pick up my bumper at the JTR facility in the city of Walnut. There was no way I could fit the bumper inside my car due to the rear strut bar so I asked my GF to help me carry it in her Tibby. Surprisingly, it fit!! Well, here is a picture of the bumper with just the primer on.
*** 2009-05-21. Delrin Shifter Bushings ***
Another item purchased thanks to positive feedback from NT. Before, with my OEM rubber shifter bushings, I had difficulty shifting from 1st to 2nd, 5th to neutral, and neutral to reverse. After putting these in, my shifting has improved tremendously. The smaller pair just popped in perfectly and the bigger pair required some sanding down to make them fit. Worth the price, worth the installation hassle, and highly recommended!
My product review of the Delrin Shifter Bushings here:
__*** Delrin Cable Shifter Bushings (for manual transmission) ***__
*** 2009-06-13. G-Games Thunder Front Bumper ***
For a flat $300.00 job, I say they did a pretty good job. There were THREE issues, however. One
, there is a slight gap between the bumper and the bottom of the headlights. Two
, there is a slight mismatch between the driver's-side fender and the bumper. And three
, they broke off some chunks off my wheel guard plastic that is located underneath the car (the part that shield my CAI air filter).
I think issues one and two have more to do with the fitment of the G-Games Thunder bumper rather than the body shop. But issue #3, it was totally their fault for not being more careful.
Here are some pictures I took of my Tibby with the G-Games bumper on but WITHOUT my VIS Cyber CF hood installed (I had taken it off before dropping my car off at the shop because I was worried they might crack it).
Since it was getting too late on Saturday evening, I just re-installed my HID's. On Sunday morning (today), I put back my VIS Cyber CF hood and did some work on the Tibby with the help of my GF. In order to solve the problem of the gap between the bumper and the headlights, we cut a strip of rubber door weatherstrip from Home Depot and glued it on the bottom of my headlights.
With the help of my GF, we also taped on some rubber garage door bottom material to the underside of the G-Games to protect it from scratches/chips/cracks.
And here is how my Tibby looks now.
*** 2009-07-16. P0werAxel Dyno Tune & ECU Reflash ***
From what I gathered both here on NT and through reading some tuning books, it is recommended to get a dyno tune + a street tune after adding power adders to one's car. Although I'm not FI, I do have some NA bolt-on power adders--CAI, Megan Racing 4-1 Header, and the catback exhaust. So when an opportunity came up to have a Korean Hyundai tuner to work on my car to extract any remnant whp and torque, I decided to go for it.
The tuner is from a Korean company called P0werAxel and the guys that I worked with--Arvin and Ryan--were absolutely fabulous in their service and dedication to tuning my car. The process started with a street tune followed by a dyno tune at the famous md Automotive in Westminister, CA. The guys at md Automotive were very friendly and professional and a general pleasure to deal with.
Anyhow, on to the results. According to dyno graphs of a stock 2.0L, 5-spd Tiburon,
the stock whp is usually rated between 120whp and 124whp
. The stock torque is usually rated between 120 trq to 123 trq
My 2004 2.0L, 5-spd Tiburon, with NA mods of the Fujita F5 CAI, Megan Racing 4-1 Equal-Length Header, and the Injen SuperSES Exhaust system, had a baseline dyno
of: 141.41 whp & 144.41 trq.
After the P0werAxel street tune + dyno tune, my numbers increased to: 146.32 whp & 142.36 trq
So I gained about 5whp but lost a couple torque. The tuner explained to me that my torque numbers went down because in order to increase whp safely by controlling for knock and misfires, he had to change some variables that led to the torque falling down a little bit. Since I care more about the safe and consistent running of my car over raw increases in whp and torque, I had no problems with that.
In addition to gaining some extra power, the ECU reflash also raised my redline RPM from 6,500RPM to 7,200RPM. The top speed limit was raised from ~130MPH to 155MPH.
All in all, I'm happy with my results and I had a great experience with both P0werAxel and md Automotive!!
** EDIT **: The P0werAxel reflash was removed from my car after 2 months. There were just too many bugs with it. For one, shifting from first gear to second gear became VERY abrupt and jerky. In order to get back the smooth shift, I had to adjust my driving style by more aggressively pressing the gas pedal right before I shifted into second. This got annoying after a while since I'm using up more gas unnecessarily, I'm slipping my clutch more, and it makes me sound like a ricer boy who wants to "race" all the time from the stoplight.
Second, I kept on getting CEL codes. The first CEL code I got right after the reflash was P0605 (ECU ROM Error). Because the ECU tuning device is a KDM market one, it wasn't compatible with my USDM ECU. The tuner (Ryan) from P0werAxel, to his credit however, fixed that CEL code by reprogramming and reflashing my ECU again to make the software and hardware compatible.
3rd, I got another CEL code--P0501 (Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction). With this CEL code, however, P0werAxel wasn't able to fix it. Since the VSS and its data are important in the correct functioning of my engine, I asked P0werAxel to reflash my ECU back to stock.