Originally Posted by InspectorPoirot
Thank you dude, hopefully now with this work out the way and if it keeps going nicely I can get back to doing some more mods to make the car mine
It's a Valeo clutch and so far it's feeling very nice. Considering doing the slave cylinder restrictor valve removal, just wish the pics were still on that thread.
Hope you enjoy yourself! Yes the barbecue was fun I managed to get three good burgers despite it being not being a very hot bbq - and what with sunshine, trees and having my car parked on the grass a few feet away blaring out music I felt like it was something out of Forza Horizon. Is that sad? haha
Well I've done the delay valve mod myself and it's super easy to do. I give it a 2/10, it's just about as easy as changing the air filter in an OEM airbox. I found a picture on google of the slave cylinder, I'd have used one of my own and photoshopped the steps onto it but our firewall at work blocks imgur/photobucket/etc - so I have to use a picture that's already hosted somewhere.
Tiburon slave cylinder^
First some notes, this is a hydraulic system so once you open it you will lose brake fluid, probably most of it depending on whether or not you decide to find a way to plug the line while you work on the cylinder itself. It's just basic dot3 brake fluid, so I took the opportunity to drain mine out and replace with fresh fluid. You may want to stuff rugs/papertowels below the cylinder to protect the trans/surrounding area from being soaked in brake fluid (spilling some wont hurt much, but keep it away from rubber and ESPECIALLY paint!)
Next note is if you have the oem intake, you'll need to remove most of that to make the job easier. If you have a CAI/SRI no worries, you can work around it (sorry, I'm in advanced reply mode so can't see your mods right now)
Let me explain some things in the picture above - there's a small yellow "HEL" tag on the hydraulic clutch line, right behind that just barely visible is a "banjo" bolt at the very rear of the slave cylinder which mounts it. This is what the delay valve will come out of when this bolt is removed (the delay valve is a tiny spring with a small metal "crown" on the end, the assembly is about the size of a finger nail) The rest of the picture is self explanatory - a rod which connects to the clutch fork via a simple cotter pin, and two bolts that mount the slave cylinder to trans. Then a bleed valve sticking out on bottom right.
1- Crack open the banjo bolt just enough so that you can loosen it easily later, keep it tight enough to retain fluid for now.
2- Remove the cotter pin from the cylinder rod/clutch fork.
3- Loosen the 2 bolts mounting the cylinder, leave them tight enough to keep the cylinder in place for now.
4- Prepare for brake fluid leakage (quick note - a turkey baster makes it easy to remove fluid from the reservoir - less to spill out and make a mess, and if it's dirty it wont gunk up the system this way) then completely remove the banjo bolt. The hydraulic line should come right off.
5- Completely remove the 2 bolts mounting the cylinder.
6- You should now be able to pick the cylinder up to hold in your hand. Slowly push the rod inward, keep an eye out for the delay valve which will fall out through the hole where the banjo bolt was. I saved mine just in case, but trust me you'll never want to put it back in.
7- Re-assemble in reverse but don't hook the cotter pin back up to the rod/clutch fork yet, we'll need this undone for now. Mount the cylinder via 2 bolts, then attach the hydraulic line and banjo bolt. Now all you have left to do is bleed the system.
8- Open the bleed valve a tiny bit, fill the reservoir with new brake fluid, and allow the fluid to refill the hydraulic line as air is pushed out through the open bleed valve. This is called "gravity bleeding". Once you see fluid coming out of the valve close it up tight, we're done with that.
9- Since you didn't put the cotter pin back on the rod and clutch fork yet, we're gonna pump that slave cylinder rod in full, slow, strokes inward. Keep an eye on the clutch fluid reservoir (cap must be off for this process), you should see bubbles being pumped through the line into the reservoir. This is called "reverse bleeding" and only requires one person to do, and also much easier than the traditional --2 person job, 1 pump the clutch pedal, while the other opens and closes the bleed screw-- Pump that rod a few times just to make sure all of the air has been expelled through the system, and you should be good to go! Put that cotter pin back on and ensure all bolts are tight, take her for a nice ride with crisp and defined
It looks like a long process but should take you no longer than half an hour including the bleed process. And I wouldn't have take the time to write up the process if it wasn't 100% WORTH IT! You'll love the new clutch feel. Good luck and feel free to let me know if you have any questions!