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post #1 of 13 Old 05-16-2017, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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N00B from Michigan

Hey guys, been pulling info for a few weeks and decided to join the forum today.

I've wanted a Tibby for a few years, and I'm picky, so it took me until a few weeks ago to find the one I wanted for the price I was willing to pay (cheap).

I have a fleet of Hyundai's now. Started with a 2002 Accent GL 9 years ago, now has 290k+ on it and running strong. Then fell in love with the Sonata Hybrid and got a 2011 base model just over 3 years ago. My wife drives that now...

After my wife took the Sonata and I went back to the Accent - I got a bit more serious about my Tiburon pursuit. Again, I'm picky, and I wouldn't settle for anything other than EXACTLY what I wanted. A 2005/6 SE (because I wanted the 6 speed), and in the Orange Crush color. I finally found one that matched my wants, my price, and was in decent enough condition to make me drive 3 hours to Joliet IL to pick it up. What an eff'ed up dealership, but hey - I got what I wanted at the end of the deal...

2006 SE, 139k on the clock, VERY little rust (HUGE in the snow belt), un-adulterated (was bone stock when I bought it). Now has a cat-back. Have headers, but waiting to install them until this winter (this is my summer toy).

Summed up - I'm 36 and have 3 kids. I have this as my DD to have fun with. I'll mod it up on a budget (not cheap, but keeping myself from going apeshit). Within a couple years I expect, based on my history of going nuts with cars, this will be boosted, wide-bodied and not a dependable DD... Hopefully I restrain myself, but I doubt it (for example, I took an 88 Mustang 4-banger, machined and built it to 14:1 compression, added a turbo at progressive rate to 8psi and ran alcohol through it. For fun.)

Anyways, thanks for having me. I have a bunch of history with boost, alcohol and general engine knowledge if anyone needs a hand!


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post #2 of 13 Old 05-17-2017, 01:56 AM
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Re: N00B from Michigan

Welcome. How did you get your Accent to last more than 290,000 miles? Is it the original engine?
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post #3 of 13 Old 05-17-2017, 03:10 AM
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Re: N00B from Michigan

Don't forget your tib timing belt lol ����.. much needed for this car after 60k

NGM stage 3. NGM 460 injectors. DC headers. DC exhaust. AEM CAI. Sarona Body Kit.
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post #4 of 13 Old 05-17-2017, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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Re: N00B from Michigan

The Accent made it to 202k on the original engine and auto trans, then the trans puked. I found a donor car for $600 with a manual, and the engine had 62k on it, so I swapped the whole kit-n-kaboodle in and converted my car to a manual. The old engine still ran great though, I still have it as a backup (1.6L).

The timing belt was just replaced on the Tibby before I bought it, so we're good to go for a while now. Really everything on the Tibby is solid, no mechanical issues and the body is in pretty good condition.
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post #5 of 13 Old 05-17-2017, 09:38 AM
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Re: N00B from Michigan

Do you have proof that the timing belt was replaced? Don't forget other things like water pump, timing belt tensioner, and all the timing pulleys as well should've been done at the 120k mark.

Huffin E85 and lovin every minute of it!!

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post #6 of 13 Old 05-17-2017, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Re: N00B from Michigan

Dealer service logs and receipts. Went through a full 100k service (timing belt, coolant flush, plugs, wires, suspension service, etc etc). Previous owner kept VERY good records including a gas mileage log. Only one incident and it was a minor fender bender, previous owner rear-ended someone at low speed. Only needed to have the bumper cover replaced (have the receipt for that too lol).

All that said, I'll probably replace the engine next year anyway. Looking to buy another engine and make it as bullet-proof as possible. I know the bottom end of these 2.7's are the failure mode, so will be building some billet main caps and a stud girdle. Thinking about changing out the pistons to bump up the compression a little bit while I'm in there. Thinking even though I've built some custom turbo setups in the past, I don't think I want to spend that kind of coin on this one. Lots of work and money for a "toy" vehicle. And let's be honest - they're fun as they are and will never be a Corvette, so my mindset is to give it as much power as I can without going overboard and leave it dependable.


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post #7 of 13 Old 05-17-2017, 11:56 AM
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Re: N00B from Michigan

Oh nice! Good find then!

Meh on the engine rebuild. I've been running a boosted set up for a few years on a block I bought from a salvage yard that had 150k on it. Had perfect compression and still runs perfectly. Its all in the tune or tuner in this case me!!
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post #8 of 13 Old 05-17-2017, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Re: N00B from Michigan

I'm an engine guy, I enjoy building them up. I prefer the idea of upping the compression vs. the added expense of boosting. I'm not saying it will or won't be boosted at some point. Right now my answer would be no, but who knows. Either way I like the peace of mind from knowing my block can take whatever I throw at it. If I want to go nuts and try for over 300HP I want to know the mains can take it. From all I've read, that's a gamble on these engines. And billet caps and a girdle wouldn't be much. I'd rough them in my shop and I'd only need to pay for the align hone ($100). That little mod alone would make me more than comfortable with holding any power I could squeeze out of it. If I can make it 4-bolt mains, even better, just not sure what kind of real estate on the bottom of the block I have to work with.

If I do boost it, I'd probably go all out and go twin T25's with a stand alone EMS. Not that I've put any thought into it...


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post #9 of 13 Old 05-17-2017, 04:43 PM
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Re: N00B from Michigan

Do some reading up on the Delta V6. Its already girdled. The block itself is plenty strong. Early production versions had issues with sleeves dropping out of the block but Hyundai fixed that before it was ever dropped in a Tiburon chassis.

What kills these engines is in most cases a poor tune and not knowing the limits of a stock block. The rotating assembly is actually plenty strong and with the right ring gap I'm betting it would happily live at 400whp on E85.

People need to remember that these engines were made with very small ring gaps to help aid in emissions and efficiency. The pistons themselves are actually a pretty decent design with beefy ring lands. Problems arise when you throw too much heat at them and the rings close up and break the ring lands. People think meth injection is the answer but its just a band aid especially with how people implement it by using a single nozzle in the intake. Eventually one or more cylinders will not get the right amount and those cylinders will over heat and things break.

Lastly, lots of people come on here spouting how they are going to do massive power builds like a twin turbo setup without actually researching what it would cost to do that or if its even possible or even worth while. I hope your not one of those..otherwise you better have your flame retardant suit ready..
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Huffin E85 and lovin every minute of it!!

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post #10 of 13 Old 05-17-2017, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dmdicks View Post
Do some reading up on the Delta V6. Its already girdled. The block itself is plenty strong. Early production versions had issues with sleeves dropping out of the block but Hyundai fixed that before it was ever dropped in a Tiburon chassis.

What kills these engines is in most cases a poor tune and not knowing the limits of a stock block. The rotating assembly is actually plenty strong and with the right ring gap I'm betting it would happily live at 400whp on E85.

People need to remember that these engines were made with very small ring gaps to help aid in emissions and efficiency. The pistons themselves are actually a pretty decent design with beefy ring lands. Problems arise when you throw too much heat at them and the rings close up and break the ring lands. People think meth injection is the answer but its just a band aid especially with how people implement it by using a single nozzle in the intake. Eventually one or more cylinders will not get the right amount and those cylinders will over heat and things break.

Lastly, lots of people come on here spouting how they are going to do massive power builds like a twin turbo setup without actually researching what it would cost to do that or if its even possible or even worth while. I hope your not one of those..otherwise you better have your flame retardant suit ready..
LMAO - flame on! Nah, if you read back, I'm not all that gung-ho on what I plan to do with the Tibby. I certainly have no delusions of grandeur... Also, note I have done a few custom turbo setups in the past. I do know very well what the hurdles and cost are. I'm on the fence in regards to a turbo setup. I may do it, I may not. This isn't a car I depend on and it is out of service from October through March at the very least, so it wouldn't be a big deal for me to give it a go. But it's money... Money I'm not sure I want to spend on a car I paid $4300 for... Never know -see - on the fence.

Really though - read back. Not my first toy car. I can appreciate your line of thought though, I've seen what you describe. Trust me, that isn't me... I've built some pretty tough cars. This one won't come close to the fastest car I've built, but it will be fun (hell, it already is from the factory). I don't plan to go all-out either. Anything I do has to keep this car on the "daily driver" realm, so needing 100+ octane isn't going to work.

I have read - on this very forum - that the mains on these engines were weak and 300HP was pushing the limits. Maybe that was a bad 2-3 threads I read. I also saw on 1 thread here that the 2.7 was a STROKED version of the 2.5, obviously anyone that can read knows that is false, so maybe the "weak mains" common knowledge is actually an urban legend of sorts. I'll make my assessment when I tear the block apart. I am encouraged that you say the mains are girdled from the factory. No offense, but with all the apparent mis-information, I'll wait to tear down the replacement engine and assess for myself.

If you (or anyone reading) is in Michigan - my garage is always open to come have a beer and shoot the poop. Just PM me and I'll get the beer on ice and the drop light plugged in
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post #11 of 13 Old 05-17-2017, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Re: N00B from Michigan

I think I should be forth-coming and let it be known I am a former Mustang guy... I have owned 5 Mustangs. I bought the Tibby because I love the look and wanted something that wasn't as hum-drum common as a Mustang, Camaro, etc. Plus, Hyundai has earned my loyalty.

Fun fact - My first Mustang was a 25th Anniversary edition with a custom Esslinger built 2.5L turbo engine. I have always loved tapping power from small engines. As I get older, I know someone will always build the same car tougher than I will. This is why I set my OWN limits. My toy, my budget, your opinion always welcome. We might not agree, but that's OK.


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post #12 of 13 Old 05-18-2017, 09:12 AM
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Re: N00B from Michigan

Nice previous ride! Those SVO engines had tons of potential.

That 300hp number is a myth and was probably due to a poor tune or improper maint. Hell I'm probably close to 300whp myself on my ride that I drive as much as possible on the 160k plus motor with zero issues. Granted I know what I'm doing and I'm running a full standalone ECU, but its a 100% bonestock motor.

Huffin E85 and lovin every minute of it!!

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post #13 of 13 Old 05-19-2017, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Re: N00B from Michigan

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Nice previous ride! Those SVO engines had tons of potential.

That 300hp number is a myth and was probably due to a poor tune or improper maint. Hell I'm probably close to 300whp myself on my ride that I drive as much as possible on the 160k plus motor with zero issues. Granted I know what I'm doing and I'm running a full standalone ECU, but its a 100% bonestock motor.
That's encouraging to hear! I won't be anywhere near 300HP anytime soon, just I/E for now. The longer I own the car the more I think I will plan to replace the wear items first (bushings, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, etc), just to guarantee no issues and headaches. THEN work on go-fast goodies.


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