OK, here we go. By popular demand, a DIY for removing the trim pieces in your interior and the painting tips I used.
First things first, Removal!
A screw driver is ALL you need to get these pieces apart. A smaller, thinner flat head screwdriver works great!
We'll start here with the door handle. Get your flathead in the small gap on the front side of the door handle. You'll see it if you look in front of the handle. The gap is bigger than the dividing line of the 2 pieces. Place it in, twist and pull a little, you'll see it start to seperate. Dont be affraid to get forcefull, you'll have to! Work your way down as it pulls apart. Once you feel like its loose enough, place your flathead in the starting spot and PULL! PULL HARD! -POP!!!-
To remove the trim behind the door lever, you'll see the screw there in the open AND there is a screw behind the handle. Once you pop off the handle, the 2nd screw will be exposed. Take those 2 out, and the trim can now be removed.
Now, for the window control panel plates. Take your flathead, and place it under the piece in the middle. There are 3 large tabs keeping this part in place, 2 on the front side, one on the back. Just pry up a little (be careful not to gouge your door) working the screwdriver top to bottom, it will pop off once you clear the tabs. As you seperate it from the door, youll be able to see the tabs. EASY!
Now, for the round vents ONTOP of the dash, this was simple. There are 2 tabs (a big one and a small one) holding this down. The tabs are aprox. at 5 and 11 oclock. Just get your flat head under the vent in any location where there is NO tab, and lift. They pop right off.
For the center fascia, no tools are needed. Just pop open the ash tray, get your fingers underneath the fascia, and pull. Again, just tabs all around this piece are holding it on.
If youre interested in doing the trim where your dome light and sunglass slot is, start with the 2 screws you see when you open the sunglass door. Next you'll need to get the plastic part off where the light is.
Now, to get your shifter trim piece off (THIS IS FOR MANUAL TRANS ONLY) remove the shift nob and the spring underneath it. Once you get those off, simply grab hold, and pull up. Just tabs holding this on as well. Now, if you have the Auto-Trans, use JackMcNasty's AutoBoot DIY. Here's the thread. http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8369
For the round AC vents, here is what you do...
-Take out the center console and disconnect all the wires.
-Remove the radio.
-The left vent has three screws, one on the left, one on the right and one on the bottom.
-The right vent only has two, one on each side.
-Take out the vents once unscrewed.
-Unclip the vent rings from the vent, there should be four clips on the vent.
-Take off rings, clip on new rings.
-Put everything back together.
Or, you can just cut them off. If you don't plan on using them again, you can hack them! Get yourself one of those really short screw drivers and that will help you along easier!
If you want to paint the gauge bezel, here's what you need to do. Under the topside of the gauge bezel, youll see 2 screws, take those out. When those are out, grab hold and pull down and out at the same time. It will be tuff to pull, but it will come off. Its only held in there by a few tabs and some insulation. Piece of cake!
Now that you have all of your pieces off, wash them with warm soap and water. NOTHING ABRASIVE!
Now, for the painting tips, here is what I used. Dupli-Color Primer, Paint, AND Clear Coat. If you want to use the same color I did, here are the numbers. Look on the UPC lable...
DS FM 226 SILVER (M)
0 26916 1226 1
Its a 5oz can of Dupli-Color Auto Spray.
OK, Several LIGHT coats of a good filler primer. Here's why. You dont really notice scratches and gouges on your black trim. Trust me, as soon as you lighten it up, every little crinkle, ding, or hack is noticable. The filler primer will help fix this. You may need to sand A LITTLE to fill in or reduce a scratch. The filler primer helps that to be accomplished with better results. Allow 10-15 between coats then a good 30 min before you paint especially if you did any touch up.
Now same thing with the paint. Several LIGHT coats of paint, almost like a dusting. You dont want paint to pool up in your corners. Again, 10-15 between coats. Now you want to let the paint sit for about an hour before you clear coat.
Clear coat is a little different. The first app should be very light, getting a little heavier with each application. Clear coat to me is the key! This is going to make your work shine and also provide protection. I did lots and lots of clear coat on all my pieces. This to me is the most important. And Wa-Laaa! There you'll have it!
Now, what I did for the door handles is a very patient tape job. It took me about 20-30 min for each handle. Lay a long piece of tape along the long dividing line of the handle allowing it to overlap into the smooth part just a little. Then I took a real thin screw driver and pressed the overlapping tape into the crack. Get it all in there. If it looks like its a little sloppy, it WILL be sloppy when you pull the tape. Also, its a good idea to put at least two layers of tape on so it wont leak through, you know, just incase you get a little TOO heavy with the spray. Finally, dont pull the tape until it is good and dry!
If you have any questions, feel free to ask! ENJOY PEOPLE! GOOD LUCK!
First things first, Removal!
A screw driver is ALL you need to get these pieces apart. A smaller, thinner flat head screwdriver works great!
We'll start here with the door handle. Get your flathead in the small gap on the front side of the door handle. You'll see it if you look in front of the handle. The gap is bigger than the dividing line of the 2 pieces. Place it in, twist and pull a little, you'll see it start to seperate. Dont be affraid to get forcefull, you'll have to! Work your way down as it pulls apart. Once you feel like its loose enough, place your flathead in the starting spot and PULL! PULL HARD! -POP!!!-
To remove the trim behind the door lever, you'll see the screw there in the open AND there is a screw behind the handle. Once you pop off the handle, the 2nd screw will be exposed. Take those 2 out, and the trim can now be removed.
Now, for the window control panel plates. Take your flathead, and place it under the piece in the middle. There are 3 large tabs keeping this part in place, 2 on the front side, one on the back. Just pry up a little (be careful not to gouge your door) working the screwdriver top to bottom, it will pop off once you clear the tabs. As you seperate it from the door, youll be able to see the tabs. EASY!
Now, for the round vents ONTOP of the dash, this was simple. There are 2 tabs (a big one and a small one) holding this down. The tabs are aprox. at 5 and 11 oclock. Just get your flat head under the vent in any location where there is NO tab, and lift. They pop right off.
For the center fascia, no tools are needed. Just pop open the ash tray, get your fingers underneath the fascia, and pull. Again, just tabs all around this piece are holding it on.
If youre interested in doing the trim where your dome light and sunglass slot is, start with the 2 screws you see when you open the sunglass door. Next you'll need to get the plastic part off where the light is.
Now, to get your shifter trim piece off (THIS IS FOR MANUAL TRANS ONLY) remove the shift nob and the spring underneath it. Once you get those off, simply grab hold, and pull up. Just tabs holding this on as well. Now, if you have the Auto-Trans, use JackMcNasty's AutoBoot DIY. Here's the thread. http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8369
For the round AC vents, here is what you do...
-Take out the center console and disconnect all the wires.
-Remove the radio.
-The left vent has three screws, one on the left, one on the right and one on the bottom.
-The right vent only has two, one on each side.
-Take out the vents once unscrewed.
-Unclip the vent rings from the vent, there should be four clips on the vent.
-Take off rings, clip on new rings.
-Put everything back together.
Or, you can just cut them off. If you don't plan on using them again, you can hack them! Get yourself one of those really short screw drivers and that will help you along easier!
If you want to paint the gauge bezel, here's what you need to do. Under the topside of the gauge bezel, youll see 2 screws, take those out. When those are out, grab hold and pull down and out at the same time. It will be tuff to pull, but it will come off. Its only held in there by a few tabs and some insulation. Piece of cake!
Now that you have all of your pieces off, wash them with warm soap and water. NOTHING ABRASIVE!
Now, for the painting tips, here is what I used. Dupli-Color Primer, Paint, AND Clear Coat. If you want to use the same color I did, here are the numbers. Look on the UPC lable...
DS FM 226 SILVER (M)
0 26916 1226 1
Its a 5oz can of Dupli-Color Auto Spray.
OK, Several LIGHT coats of a good filler primer. Here's why. You dont really notice scratches and gouges on your black trim. Trust me, as soon as you lighten it up, every little crinkle, ding, or hack is noticable. The filler primer will help fix this. You may need to sand A LITTLE to fill in or reduce a scratch. The filler primer helps that to be accomplished with better results. Allow 10-15 between coats then a good 30 min before you paint especially if you did any touch up.
Now same thing with the paint. Several LIGHT coats of paint, almost like a dusting. You dont want paint to pool up in your corners. Again, 10-15 between coats. Now you want to let the paint sit for about an hour before you clear coat.
Clear coat is a little different. The first app should be very light, getting a little heavier with each application. Clear coat to me is the key! This is going to make your work shine and also provide protection. I did lots and lots of clear coat on all my pieces. This to me is the most important. And Wa-Laaa! There you'll have it!
Now, what I did for the door handles is a very patient tape job. It took me about 20-30 min for each handle. Lay a long piece of tape along the long dividing line of the handle allowing it to overlap into the smooth part just a little. Then I took a real thin screw driver and pressed the overlapping tape into the crack. Get it all in there. If it looks like its a little sloppy, it WILL be sloppy when you pull the tape. Also, its a good idea to put at least two layers of tape on so it wont leak through, you know, just incase you get a little TOO heavy with the spray. Finally, dont pull the tape until it is good and dry!
If you have any questions, feel free to ask! ENJOY PEOPLE! GOOD LUCK!