This DIY is for a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon GT V6 Six Speed
. The location of the drain and fill bolts may be different on your particular year model and manual transmission configuration.
According to Yoyo, NT's resident PR Tib expert; all the manual tranny gear oil change procedures are the same (V6 6 speed from 03-08 )
or (V6 5 speed from 03-08 )
. I will keep this updated with any further info that anyone contributes. I do know that in the 03's the location of the drain and fill bolts is slightly different, and I'll update the thread with pictures of an 03'.
Of course, this is NOT
meant for any auto transmissions out there! You guys have it easy when it comes to this one.
Okay, it's been a LONG tine since I contributed a DIY thread to NT, so I though this might clear up some confusion out there as to the procedure for changing out one's manual gear oil. I just hit 30k with the Tib and since Hyundai of Jacksonville can rarely do a job right on my car, I decided that they would not get the privilege of working on my car for this either. Hence, the DIY you see here.
3 quarts of your favorite tranny gear oil in GL4 and 75W specification.
I wanted to try Redline MT-90
so I ordered three quarts from JEGS online:
1 3/8 Drive Ratchet and 10mm "Hex" Socket
(or 2 and utilize 2 drive up ramps for the front end like I did - you will understand why you will want all four points up in the air shortly)
1 Hydraulic Floor Jack
1 Oil Drain Pan
3-4 Shop Rags
(Trust me, you'll need these)
1 Carpenter's leveler
(if you are overly obsessive at times like me).
1 Fluid Pump Apparatus
(such as this example below)
This is a very straightforward operation really. All you have to do is simply get all your supplies together and then find a level area (in my case, my garage) to work on the car.
This is what I did to get my car off the ground: I drove the car onto the drive up ramps and then MADE SURE the car was in first gear. VERY important.....remember, we have front wheel drive and you don't want that sucker slipping back down off of the ramps! Then just go to the rear of the car and using the floor jack, lift the back end of the car until it looks level with the front end. You can use the rear tow bar as a jack point. It should not hurt anything. I have done it many times thus far with no issues. Now, you CAN then put two jack stands under the car on both sides and remove the floor jack, but I choose not to do this in the interest of saving some time. Don't blame me if your jack fails and your car comes crashing down. You have been warned.
Do as I say, not as I did.....
At this point, make sure the car is level because it will affect where the tranny oil you are about to replace will be leveling off and filling up. You want it to indicate correctly when the trans case is full. Just use the carpenters level on the lower rocker panel and adjust if need be. Probably a bit too obsessive on my part, but hey, I don't like possibly tedious mistakes that would otherwise be avoided with a little forethought.
Now it's time to crawl under the car and get busy. Start by locating the drain and fill bolts for your particular model and year. The owners manual tries to show you, but I found mine to be vague at best. NT.com search button to the rescue!
Here's the location of mine from the direct front and drivers side wheel perspective, which is where you will find the transmission bell housing drivers side where the bolts reside, and if you simply look through the wheel well (as if the wheel was off of the car) you will see this:
Upper (Fill) and Lower (Drain) 10 mm hex bolts respectively
Another view of the lower drain bolt
Time to loosen and remove them - start with the upper one (fill plug bolt) and loosen it most of the way, but not all the way.
Then completely remove the lower one, but make sure your oil drain pan is underneath it first because some nice fairly dirty tranny oil will start issuing forth at a pretty rapid rate, especially once you go back and remove the upper drain plug completely.
Let 'er drain until all of the old fluid is out:
Out with the old stuff.......mine was fairly amber colored. You want it to be almost clear. I'd say every 30k is a good benchmark for changing it out, and I'm not even that hard on transmissions these days.
Time to put the good stuff in. Insert and tighten the bottom fill bolt and washer to torque specs first. I chose not to get a new washer because the old one looked fine, but it's personal preference really.
Set up the pump according to the directions that hopefully came with it. Mine was easy......connect two hoses, one to siphon and one to fill, and I was good to go.