Coutesy of OZTuscani

Tools Needed:

Pliers
Ratchet
10mm Socket
12mm Socket
Rags and/or disposable cup

This DIY assumes you have already removed the Throttle Body (which I covered in a different DIY). This will cover everything you need to do to install a Stage 1, 2, 3, etc.. Intake Manifold This DIY (Upper Intake portion) can also apply to anyone just replacing the plugs or wires!

UPPER INTAKE MANIFOLD REMOVAL

Remove the 2 – 10mm bolts from the throttle cable brackets, the 2 – 10mm bolts from the hose brackets, & 10mm bolt from the ground strap connected to the firewall.



Using pliers compress the clamp and remove the vacuum line (#1) and then remove the fuel line (prepare for some fuel to spill) (#2). Remove the Grey hose with Red stripe from the Intake (may need to pry loose) (#3), Disconnect wiring harness) (#4).



Now go around to the rear of the intake, using pliers remove the brake booster vacuum hose. Remove the 3 – 10mm bolts holding the throttle linkage brackets to the rear of the intake. The Blue wires in my pic are from my ground wire kit (you may not have these).



Next, disconnect the wiring harness by pressing in the retainer ring and pulling. Now that the throttle bracket is loose you can leave it hang or remove the wire loom clips from it so you can get it out of the way (recommended). There are 3 plastic tabs poking through the bracket (only 2 shown in pic), just pinch them with pliers and push them back through the holes. Now you can swing the throttle cable assembly up under the windshield wiper. It takes a little bit of work, but makes the next part easier!



Now you need to remove the 3 – 12mm bolts from the bracket on the rear of the intake. You can see 1 of the bolts in the photo, another in the middle, and 1 on the other end. You will have to do some of this by feel as you cannot easily see them.



Now you can remove the remaining 5 bolts and 2 nuts (all 12mm) connecting the upper and lower intake.



You should now be able to lift the intake directly up and off the engine. Remove and inspect the gasket & replace if needed. If you are replacing the intake, make sure you have removed any fittings which may not come with your new one! At this point I recommend covering up the open holes so you cannot drop anything into them.



LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD REMOVAL

First we need to remove the fuel injector rails. Start by removing the 2 - 10mm nuts from the hose and bracket on the right end of the front rail. Pull the hose and bracket away from the rail (watch for spilling fuel).



Next, disconnect the grey wire harnesses from all 6 injectors. Now remove the 4 – 12mm bolts holding the fuel rail to the lower intake. CAREFULLY lift the fuel rails up off the lower intake. The injectors are just held in by o-rings so they pop right out. Set the rail assembly aside somewhere well protected (covered would not be a bad idea either), until you are ready to reinstall.


Now all that’s left is to remove the 8 – 12mm nuts and lock-washers holding the lower intake on. Be careful not to drop anything into the injector holes!



If you are not ready to reinstall the intake immediately, you may want to consider covering the port openings in the heads. You do not want to drop anything down there!



REINSTALLATION - LOWER INTAKE

Before we begin, remove any tape or other coverings you may have used to protect the open head ports. Next make sure your gaskets are installed (these gaskets can be reused since they are steel). Now set the lower intake down onto the studs (IMPORTANT! It is possible to install the lower intake backwards, so make sure it goes on the same way it came off) and install the 8 – 12mm nuts and lock-washers holding the lower intake on. Be careful not to drop anything into the injector holes! Factory torque specs these bolts is 14-15lb.ft.

Now CAREFULLY install the fuel rails onto the lower intake, making sure the injectors are all seated. Next, reinstall the 4 – 12mm bolts holding the fuel rails to the lower intake (the 2 - front rail holes also hold the brackets for the injector wiring, make sure they are in place before tightening). Factory torque specs on these bolts is 7-11 lb.ft.
Finally, reconnect the grey wire harnesses to all 6 injectors.



Now we need to reinstall the 2 - 10mm nuts with the fuel hose and bracket on the right end of the front rail. Once that is done the lower intake install is compete!



REINSTALLATION - UPPER INTAKE

First, be sure to reinstall any fittings you may have removed from your upper intake.

Now we are ready to install the upper intake, first make sure the gasket is in place (this is a steel reusable on as well). Now place the upper intake on to the lower intake and reinstall the 5 bolts and 2 nuts (all 12mm) connecting the upper and lower intake. Factory torque specs on these are 11-14 lb.ft.

Next reinstall the 3 – 12mm bolts that attack the black bracket to the rear of the intake. You can see 1 of the bolts in the photo, another in the middle, and 1 on the other end. You will have to do some of this by feel as you cannot easily see them.
The attached intake should look like this:



Now we go to the throttle bracket assembly. If you removed any of the 3 wire loom clips from the bracket, be sure to reattach them. Now reinstall the 3 – 10mm bolts holding the throttle linkage brackets to the rear of the intake (#1). Now you can reconnect the wiring harness to the back of the intake (#2). Lastly, using pliers reinstall the brake booster vacuum hose (#3).



Now go around to the driver’s side of the intake. Several things need to be reconnected here: Using pliers reinstall the vacuum line (#1), reinstall the fuel line (#2). Reinstall the Grey hose with Red stripe to the Intake (#3). Finally, reconnect injector wiring harness) (#4).



Now all you need to do is reinstall the 2 – 10mm bolts from the throttle cable brackets, the 2 – 10mm bolts from the hose brackets, & 10mm bolt from the ground strap connected to the firewall. Finished product should look like this!



Now you can proceed to my Throttle Body DIY if you need to reattach it.

Enjoy
-Ryloth

hey i need a ? answered, i bought a stage III upper only off a member on here, does the stage III come with gaskets? b/c if the holes are ported lager, why would i reuse the stock one that have holes the size of the stock holes,
do you get my question?? basically do i need to call up TC and buy his gaskets or is the stock on alright>

Nice DIY. I may need this in the future. Great Job!

You can reuse the stock IM gasket over and over again. It is a triple layer metal gasket. That means that you have a hard metal (upper IM), to soft metal to soft metal to soft metal, to hard metal (lower IM) seal. The soft metal of the gasket can be squeezed over and over again until it fatigues (probably about the 100th or more time that your squeeze it.) With the stock specs, the gasket is slightly larger than the IM runner areas. TC ports the intake runners to match the stock IM gasket cross-sections. In other words, the stock IM gasket is a perfect match to TC's porting, or vice-versa.

Just resuse the stock gasket with any of TC's ported intake manifolds, and you'll be fine. Torque the bolts down to Hyundai specs which you will find at www. hmaservice.com.

this helps with getting to the good grounding spots on the engin. Nology to HKS grounding got to love it

Well I must say, this DIY sure helps out. Finally got a Stage I Lower IM yesterday and installed it today and this DIY definatly helped. Everything was pretty much straight forward, but having this DIY bumped up the confidence level.

Can someone Help Me please I have a stage IV IM what about the replacement of the hoses to the rear of the IM does it matter where they go

I think your talking about the IAT sensor, not sure though. I know the Stage IVs a missing something when you install them, I would call TC at NGM.

what stage is the IM in the pics?

Its the Stage III Intake Manifold from NGM.

I was just curious if you have to remove the lower intake if you were installing cams?

no, you don't.

here:

http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1765

Hey man, thanks a lot for all the help with the great details for the manifold swap.

I'm going to be putting in my new wires and upper intake this weekend, so this is going to help out a lot, thanks for the info.

Sorry to dig up an old post, but the hose that has the red stripe fell off of where ever it was connected to on my IM...I know the pics where the top of the hose is supposed to go....what about the bottom? Where in the heck does it go? I can't seem to tell.

Thanks

oem fuel pressure regulator

I dunno where that is :S...help?

the rear fuel rail. its a weird ovalish looking metal color thing attached to a black fuel hose on the other side

nice, anyone who tries to do these its really easy. also clean engine bay must be a new car. lol

I finally got around to change my spark plugs and this job really sucked....my fingers are all beat up and i stripped 2 bolts (2 outta 3 from the back of the manifold) and it took me 7 friggin hours to do this....but it was a good experience and I saved $200....


oh by the way how much slack do the throttle cables supposed to have? after I put everything back together I noticed that the cables have a little bit of slack is that ok?

Just wanted to say THANKS for this DIY. I changed my plugs yesterday and having this printed out and in front of me was priceless.

this definately helped me when i replaced my plugs and wires. Thanks!

used this today just wanted to say very help full and thanks

Well, i just did a tune-up... and when i start my car, the RPMs go up to 3K. this means that my gasket is Leaking, so its better to replace the gasket to be safe.

I'm have a problem after i changed the spark plugs and changed the intake manifold i replaced the gasket and also the throttle body gasket. torqued all bolts to OEM spec and when i start it up it makes a sequel as if air is leaking....... what do you guys think? has anyone had this problem? i searched and couldn't find anything......