Slave Cylinder Valve Removal for Total Noobs by arkarsk
2003 Hyundia Tiburon I4
ORIGINAL GUIDE BY ADROCK
This DIY can be done on any manual transmission 03-08 tib
Step 1
Open your hood. Look at your air filter housing. The little white reservoir with the black cap in the top right of the picture is the clutch master cylinder, which is where you'll need to add brake fluid later.
Step 2
Remove air filter cover and element. This is first accomplished by loosening a clamping screw slightly above the air box housing.
Note that your filter element should not be showing when the cover is on as mine is in the picture, I just threw it back together when I realized I was going to take pictures.
Step 3
Remove the bottom air filter housing. This is accomplished by removing three screws as shown below.
After they are removed and out of the way, simply wiggle the housing out of its area and set it aside with the rest of the stuff you've removed.
Step 4
Now we are in clear view of the slave cylinder and have easy access to it. Your first task is to remove the centering bolt. You can do this by removing the pin from beneath the bolt (a pin is threaded through the hole beneath it to keep it from falling out). Simply pull on the pin and it should come out.
Here is what the bolt and pin look like once removed.
Step 5
With the centering bolt removed, we now have to remove or loosen several others.
First in line is the 10mm bleeder screw bolt labeled as "1" in the picture. Use a 10mm wrench to
LOOSEN the bolt. Just get it a bit loose, if you get it too loose brake fluid will escape which would be annoying at this point.
Second in line is the Banjo Bolt. Again, you must only
LOOSEN this bolt for now. Don't remove it completely. The bolt is 12mm. I used a socket wrench with a 2" extension to loosen it (pictured below).
Third, and lastly Remove the two 12mm bolts holding the slave cylinder in place.
Step 6
Now grab a container and put some newspaper around where you'll be working to avoid spills. Place the now free slave cylinder in your container and remove the banjo bolt. This would be very hard to do if you hadn't loosened it before hand. Expect some fluid to leak out once removed.
The green arrows are pointing to two copper washers. Don't lose those and remember where they go, as without those in place the whole thing will leak.
Step 7
Pat yourself on the back. With the banjo bolt removed, the pesky spring and plate should have fallen out fairly easily if you put the cylinder at a downward angle. Circled below is what should have fallen out.
Step 8
Put everything back together except the whole airbox/filter apparatus. Do not tighten the bleeder screw yet.
Step 9
With the slave cylinder back in place, it's time to bleed your clutch. Buy some DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid. Fill the clutch master cylinder with brake fluid if it isn't already. You should follow the steps below untill you are confident that there are no more air bubbles left in the lines. Spend the time and do this right folks.
With the bleeder screw slightly tightened, have someone get in the car and depress the clutch fully. While this person has the clutch pushed in, loosen the bleeder screw and let fluid/bubbles come out. Tighten the screw again once the brake fluid stops flowing, and ask your partner to release the clutch pedal. Rinse and repeat. It took us about 10-15 clutch depressions untill I was satisfied with the results. I wanted to get rid of most or all of the old dirty fluid. Make sure you keep topping up your clutch master cylinder with brake fluid, or else you'll have to start over.
Note, this works best with a clear tube going to the bleeder, it's much easier to see bubbles/dirty fluid and you can more easily direct the path of the liquid and avoid a mess.
Step 10
Make sure the banjo bolt is on pretty much as tight as you can get it. Fully tight the bleeder screw. Double check that you've put everything around the slave cylinder back together and then put your air box/filter back together.
bleeding clutch
-- Get someone to help you
-- Make sure the clutch master cylinder is full of fluid and has the cap on it.
-- Have the other person get in the car and push the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there.
-- SLOWLY open the bleeder screw. If you open it too fast brake fluid will come flying out and go everywhere. There should be air pockets comiong out of the bleeder. When it looks like the pressure is slowing down close the valve.
-- The person inside the car will have to reach down and lift up the clutch pedal each time.
Keep doing this until no more bubbles or air are coming out of the bleeder. Ocne they stop the peadl should feel normal and come back up on it's own like normal. Check to make sure there is still enough fluid in the mastr and you are ready to go.
--
FAQ's
Can anyone explain what the spring and valve do and the effects after they're removed (besides the obvious better clutch engagement)?
Will the slave cylinder become damaged over time from these missing items?
1. The valve and spring are there to cusion the engagement and disengagement of the clutch. For people that are never going to drive the car hard it works fine and usually creates a smoother engagement.
Think of this also. Between full engage and full disengage the clutch is slipping. The valve and spring lengthen this amount of time to make the shift smoother for the everyday driver, but when you drive it hard this extra slipping heats up the clutch big time and it's possible for it to cause premature failure. I think this valve is one of the factors of the clutches slipping and buring up in the cars of people that drive them hard.
With the valve and spring gone you have more precise control of the clutch with the pedal.
2. This will not damage the slave cylinder at all.
Quote:
Should I go ahead with this removal even though my clutch was recently replaced
Yea, go ahead and do it.
Hope this helps!
arkarsk
If they find it. 
(I drove it around the apartment complex a few times, seemed ok, though it feels a little light...might just be my imagination) 
Linear Mode
