This is the way I hooked mine up. Seemed to work pretty well.

The pic below.

1. This is a short one that goes from the NEG terminal(1) to the 10mm bolt that is used for the elbow from the stock airbox(2).

2. From the NEG terminal(2) to the bolt that holds on the the engine hoist bracket(3).

3. The wire from point 2 connects here. Then from here to the intake(4). There's also one from here that goes down to a bolt on the bottom of the tranny( I don't have a pic of that location, I'll try to find one ).

4. The wire from (3) connects here and goes to (5), the 10mm bolt on the pass side fender.

5. Last connection at the 10mm bolt.

I wanted to tag on another option for DIY ground wires. I ordered these parts today and I should be able to install it later this week. I'm basically trying to copy the Shark Racing Ground Wire Kit, but for a lot cheaper.

Here are the links to purchase the wires, distribution block, and ring terminals. Should be able to build the same kit for under $40 compared to Shark Racing's $85 and still look nice.

Distribution Block - 1x4gauge input, 4x8gauge output
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=265-800

4 and 8 gauge wire
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=100-196
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=100-174

4 and 8 gauge Ring Terminals
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...95-662&scqty=3
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=095-655

I'm kind of guessing on the ring terminal post size. you can see all the sizes here:
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage....10534&desc=ASC

I order a lot of parts from this company which is why all my parts are from them. If you can find them cheaper elsewhere, go for it. I'm already using one of their distribution blocks for my stereo system, so the two together should look good.

Heres the finished pics:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/547050/6

Well I started my grounding wire install last night, but 9:00 came around and that's time to go to the bar on Thursdays. So, I still have two more wires to run, one to the transmission and the other to the valve covers. Here's a pic of what it looks like so far. I mounted the distribution block on the firewall. I also went nuts and decided to use aluminum flex conduit to dress it up and keep it neat.

(1) This 4 gauge wire connects to the negative battery terminal
(2) This 8 gauge wire connects to the front of the engine block which you can see.
(3) Connects to the same screw that holds the grounding strap from the IM to the firewall.
(4) Runs from (3) to the strut

I also left the wire from the negative battery terminal in place for added grounding.

sadman813, where'd you get your ground wire kit from? That looks pretty pimp.

Everything is listed in my first post on this page, except the conduit which I got at Lowes for about $0.25 per foot. Also, I bought #10 size ring terminals which are too small, go for 1/4". I ended up using my dremel to enlarge them for use with existing bolts. And for anyone that thinks 8 gague is too small, keep in mind it's an addition to existing grounding(nothing replaced) and 8 gauge is good up to over 70 amps when using 4 feet or less.

Anyone have any better pics of the connection points please?

Sadman, in total how much 8ga wire would you say you used? I just bought 20 feet, which i'm hoping will give me some left overs.

I think i bought 20-25ft and lots left over.

Thanks for posting this, i have been looking for a cheap place to get these terminals for like 2 months. the cheapest i have found so far is $1 each and these are .50 cents

okay my question is why would you ground with 8awg wire it's not enough current. If you 4awg wire it would be alot better.

Like I said above, 8 gauge is good up to or over 70 amps when using 4 feet or less wire. The shorter the wire, the more current you can pull through it.

Hey, what about DIY Grounding kit for 2.0 4Cylinder Tiburon?
Are the locations pretty much the same with V6 like in the pictures?

hey for the i4 ppl, i installed my groundwire kit a few weeks ago, and im gonna b putting the pics up on my cardomain site, www.cardomain.com/id/jimedakid sometime this week, so just check it out sometime and the pics should b up there

Damn adrock, your install is confusing as hell. I've stared at it for half an hour now and still can't figure it out. I mean, the wrong numbers go to the wrong grouding points.

Sorry man, I wish I had taken pics of the install but the pic above was taken when we were stripping my friends Tib after it was wrecked. And I traded in my tib before Iremembered to take more detailed pics.

Not to sound like a retard...but what exactly do grounding wires do

it frees up the flow of power by disbersing the negative current in to more then one off-set alowing better over all proformance in the sterio sound and HP areas

So I am to assume that custom wires function much better than stock wires? Or do the Tibs come without grounding wires and you have to add them? Thanx for the info!

these wires seems like a big advantage for such an easy mod. it just seems that nobody really is positive of the connecting spots. where would be the best to connect these grounders

Don't expect a noticeable difference from ground wires. I think anyone who claims more power or smoother idling is only imagining it. They add a nice look and that's about it.

No not really, thats not it. They make the entire electrical system work much more smoothly. Imagine this, you have a stereo and amp. The amp needs to be grounded, but its not grounded properly - what happens.
what happens is you get road noise, static and a volt meter that jumps around. Its the same for the car - everything is electrical so why not make a stronger electrical current run through your car?

Oh and there have been cars (Acura RSX i think) that have pulled 7 h.p. out of a set of grounding wires. Thats what this craze is all about. Someone did it, got like 5 more h.p. and now everybody is doing it! So in reality your just stating your opinion which was probably made because your just to lazy to do it yourself!
Just my 2 cents!

I did do the mod. you should have read the entire thread. I even gave some instructions how to do it. Until someone takes a DMM and measures the resistances before and after installing ground wires I'm a skeptic. The stock grounding is aluminum wire which has almost the same resistivity as copper, and the gauge is a bit smaller, but over such short distances it should be negligible. Maybe those who got gains had aftermarket ignition parts which actually do need better grounding.

When I did my grounds I didn't notice any power difference but I did notice a big difference in the idle.

For those with larger audio systems it is worth while. It eliminates static at higher ranges and also helps idle run smoothly. As for this DIY. We should probably move the debate to another topic in the General Discussion forum. Instead of cluttering up the DIY.

still i have no answer....where would be the best grounding points whether or not it gives HP or not?