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post #1 of 13 Old 03-13-2017, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Chasing P1166

So I'm about two weeks overdue for my NYS inspection and I'm having a heck of a time getting rid of a CEL for P1166 "Manufacturer Control". I've searched through a few threads here that have helped quite a bit and prompted me to replace my MAF sensor since I've never done so, but the code is back again. Here's what I've replaced recently ~

- New NTK primary O2 installed Feb/2016 to pass last years insp. which readied up and passed perfectly.
- New NTK secondary O2 installed last week
- New Walker universal catalytic converter installed last week
- MAF replaced yesterday
- IAC valve cleaned with brake clean/iso alcohol and Qtips yesterday, replaced gasket. (forgot to test it while it was removed, oops)

The O2s and MAF were done per previous suggestions on this topic but unfortunately did not work for me. This code seems more related to fuel/air but I have no issues with driveability besides the following; I'm thinking one of these will be my next approach:

When approaching a red light/stop sign I'll press my clutch, rpm will drop down to 500-600 rpm, shake a bit and rise up to 750ish which is my normal idle rpm. The "surge" happens about 75% of the time when slowing to a stop, but it never stalls. Just hangs there for a second or two. It's easy to notice with my engine mounts as it gives a unique vibration. (the CEL does not show immediately after this happening, it always pops up randomly while I'm cruising)

My car has run cold for almost the entire Winter, I've assumed it was due to my CAI + Winter temps + short drive, but I'm starting to second guess. I run my car for about 5 minutes before even walking out to it, and at that point the temp needle has not moved at all. It will get half way to temp after maybe 10-15 minutes of driving, which is how long my commute takes, so it doesn't always reach operating temp within my drive to work/home. Compared to my gf and roommate's cars this seems a little off.

What seems more likely to be the issue? Maybe something else altogether? I never really thought about a faulty thermostat causing a CEL, but I guess it could certainly be possible? And I'm not even sure what's causing the RPM drops. Thanks for the help.


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post #2 of 13 Old 03-13-2017, 11:59 AM
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Re: Chasing P1166

I don't see the CAI affecting coolant warmup time, open/partially open thermostat is a different matter.
Running cold coolant for a long time may be pissing off the ECU. Maybe try cardboard in front of part of the radiator? This will limit cooling, speeding up temp rise. Try 1/2 or more of the front surface.

What are your LTFT's? Depending on where you look, P1166 can be AFR's, pushing limits of trims or O2 heater circuit.
Most places lean towards replacing the sensor, but yours is about a year old.

Does your CAI go all the way to the TB? If not, do you still have the stock accordion elbow?

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post #3 of 13 Old 03-13-2017, 12:52 PM
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Re: Chasing P1166

Do your brakes work fine all the time? Reason I ask is it could be a crack or split in the brake booster line or even a failed check valve or leaky booster itself.

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post #4 of 13 Old 03-13-2017, 02:38 PM
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Re: Chasing P1166

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MAF replaced yesterday
OEM? Aftermarket? Used/new?
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post #5 of 13 Old 03-13-2017, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Chasing P1166

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Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
I don't see the CAI affecting coolant warmup time, open/partially open thermostat is a different matter.
Running cold coolant for a long time may be pissing off the ECU. Maybe try cardboard in front of part of the radiator? This will limit cooling, speeding up temp rise. Try 1/2 or more of the front surface.

What are your LTFT's? Depending on where you look, P1166 can be AFR's, pushing limits of trims or O2 heater circuit.
Most places lean towards replacing the sensor, but yours is about a year old.

Does your CAI go all the way to the TB? If not, do you still have the stock accordion elbow?
Thanks for the thoughts Charlie. While reading your reply I remembered why the thought of my CAI effecting it came to mind - some time about a year ago there was a period of time when I lived near a highway onramp that I accessed daily, so my car would be about half warmed up when I reached it. Sometimes I would give it a few "spirited shifts" to get up to highway speed and I could literally watch my engine temp gauge go from half warm to literally drop back down the the "cold" pin as I was romping my way onto the highway. Then it would raise quickly to where it was as I continued driving normally. That happened a few separate times. So it got me thinking that maybe the increased air through my intake was cooling my engine to some extreme. Now it seems more likely that my thermostat was probably falling on it's face.

Not sure on the LTFTs, I'm only using a very basic scanner to get my CEL code. I'll try your tests and go from there, if I change the thermostat and coolant temp sensor with no results I'll point toward that primary O2...

PS, my intake is all aluminum piping, it does not have the accordion-like piece.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmdicks View Post
Do your brakes work fine all the time? Reason I ask is it could be a crack or split in the brake booster line or even a failed check valve or leaky booster itself.
Yes they do... it worries me that you ask! Lol. I just finished up a pretty in-depth brake job actually, rotors and pads front and rear, both rear brake lines, and fresh brake fluid of course. The CEL existed before the brake job, but I will take a look over the brake booster and surrounding brake system, can't hurt to check. Thanks for the idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by h8isgr8 View Post
OEM? Aftermarket? Used/new?
It's an OEM "Siemens". Bought from Auto 7 through Rockauto, came in a blue Hyundai box and looks 100% identical to my OEM that came off. Unfortunately it's $110 that I didn't need to spend


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post #6 of 13 Old 03-13-2017, 03:34 PM
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Re: Chasing P1166

I would get the coolant temp thing sorted out before trying anything else.
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post #7 of 13 Old 03-20-2017, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Chasing P1166

Quick update today, I spent the weekend updating my cooling system. I did my thermostat and gasket, coolant temp sensor, radiator cap, both radiator hoses, new coolant and cleaned everything I touched real well. After reconnecting my battery I started it up after to "warm up" and bleed the cooling system. It warmed up to temp perfectly, I shut down and topped off, restarted to check again. About half way warmed up the second time my CEL came back before I even left my garage. I did rev and hold it to around 2,000 for a period of time to speed up the warming process after it warmed up itself a bit, but besides that it sat in neutral and idled.

Of course that was very disappointing to see. I came in and ordered a new primary O2 sensor from Auto 7 / Rockauto as my next replacement. I got thinking and I'm wondering if the NTK O2 sensors I bought last year with my exhaust overhaul did not work so well. Luckily they worked fine at the time, readied up perfectly and I passed my inspection. But shortly after that my Magnaflow catalytic converter self destructed, and I'm starting to wonder if my primary O2 lasted just long enough to pass my inspection but then failed and caused an AFR that would destroy my catalytic converter and secondary O2. I can't prove that but just a thought. I had researched and found that NTK makes the OEM sensors but now second-guessing that, but I have had great luck with Auto 7 providing OEM parts so I'll take a look at what comes in to confirm or deny that.

If the primary O2 sensor doesn't work... I'm gonna replace my IAC and TPS sensors, then look towards the fuel system since I've not done anything fuel related on my Tib. Other suggestions welcome!


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post #8 of 13 Old 03-20-2017, 11:55 AM
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Re: Chasing P1166

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I had researched and found that NTK makes the OEM sensors but now second-guessing that, but I have had great luck with Auto 7 providing OEM parts so I'll take a look at what comes in to confirm or deny that.
I just replaced my B2S1 last fall with an OEM sensor. The body of the sensor was marked NTK, so they're definitely an OEM supplier. It's possible you got a bad sensor or it was damaged somehow.

If you get a new TPS, get this one...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's why...

A better TPS?
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post #9 of 13 Old 03-20-2017, 03:40 PM
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While most of the Auto7 parts are repackaged OEM, some have reported receiving Bosch oxygen sensor as Auto7 which of course didn't work very well. For a piece of mind get OEM one from eBay/Amazon for a similar price. Cnsmotor and FourgreenAuto are the seller.
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post #10 of 13 Old 03-20-2017, 04:28 PM
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Re: Chasing P1166

I agree with aveenav, I personally received a Bosch sensor from Auto7 and it only caused problems. steer clear of Auto7 for o2 sensors.
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post #11 of 13 Old 03-22-2017, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Chasing P1166

Quote:
Originally Posted by h8isgr8 View Post
I just replaced my B2S1 last fall with an OEM sensor. The body of the sensor was marked NTK, so they're definitely an OEM supplier. It's possible you got a bad sensor or it was damaged somehow.

If you get a new TPS, get this one...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's why...

A better TPS?
Hmmm ok good to know about NTK, I thought I had done enough confirming research so good to hear. You got me excited about the TPS, since I like experimenting with parts too especially when they're cheap. Unfortunately I have the i4 and looked on Rockauto to compare part numbers, the i4 calls for a #3517022600 while the V6 calls for #3517037100 which does cross back to your "FFF" number. Cool find though nonetheless!

Quote:
Originally Posted by aveenav View Post
While most of the Auto7 parts are repackaged OEM, some have reported receiving Bosch oxygen sensor as Auto7 which of course didn't work very well. For a piece of mind get OEM one from eBay/Amazon for a similar price. Cnsmotor and FourgreenAuto are the seller.
Quote:
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I agree with aveenav, I personally received a Bosch sensor from Auto7 and it only caused problems. steer clear of Auto7 for o2 sensors.
Well dang, that's unfortunate to hear. It will be here Friday so I'll see and update with what came. During my research for exhaust stuff I read many, many times that Bosch sensors are a no-go. If it comes as a Bosch sensor I wont even waste my time installing it, it'll go right back to RA. Thanks for the heads up, maybe my head will want to explode slightly less now when I see it's a Bosch but I'm expecting it

I've had good luck with FourGreen on Amazon so I'll check them out for O2s, or get another NTK from RA. Depends what happens Friday!


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post #12 of 13 Old 03-22-2017, 11:05 AM
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Re: Chasing P1166

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You got me excited about the TPS, since I like experimenting with parts too especially when they're cheap. Unfortunately I have the i4 and looked on Rockauto to compare part numbers, the i4 calls for a #3517022600 while the V6 calls for #3517037100 which does cross back to your "FFF" number. Cool find though nonetheless!
Sorry about that; forgot you have an i4.
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post #13 of 13 Old 03-22-2017, 04:03 PM
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Re: Chasing P1166

Read my post in your member's profile thread. I bet its your problem..

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