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post #1 of 104 Old 04-27-2008, 02:00 AM Thread Starter
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Proper PCV Configuration?

OK. Time to give all you F/I guys something to ponder over...

I've been doing little more this rainy Saturday than thinking cars, and I ended up getting onto the whole PCV and catch can system kick. Actually, somebody brought a related issue up in the N/A forum, it got me to thinking about both my current and soon to be new setups (not to mention, my low compression issue), and 6 hours later... LOL!!

So I did a little reading. Did a little research. Did a little illustration. And am posting a little thread.

Let's start off with the illustration (so we all know what the hell I'm talking about).





Alright. Diagram "A"; a positive displacement blower setup (as I wanted us ALL to be included). This is currently the "recommended" PCV and/or catch can setup for most of us boosted guys. However, after doing the little bit of "reading" and "research", I found a few "drawbacks" to this setup configuration. First - the entire PCV system is now entirely dependent upon the crankcase pressures pushing themselves out (under both idle and boost) as there is no vacuum acting on the system. As such...

IDLE: All air is metered. Rear valve cover is under crankcase vacuum... possibly drawing in fresh ventilation air (and potentially some recirculated fuel and/or oil vapors). PCV has been removed and crankcase pressure is being pushed out into the environment as it increases. Idle ventilation suffers slightly due to a lack of manifold vacuum.

BOOST: All air is metered. Boost pressures do not affect crankcase pressure due to the manifold connection to the crankcase being eliminated. Crankcase pressure ventilation is still pushed out into the environment as it increases. There is still no vacuum acting on the system.

While this is "adequate" for the most boosted engines... so is a drag tube in some people's opinions. However, neither of these options are considered by most as an optimal one since there is never a positive vacuum placed on the crankcase. Keep in mind this is important for several reasons, including (but not limited to) increased ventilation, better ring seating, and minimal HP differences.

However, there is also a great deal of debate about what is the "optimal" setup, so I decided rather than going with the general consensus, I would sit down and attempt to analyze our particular engine to see what I could come with. Diagrams "B", "C", and "D" are what I came up with...

On to Diagram "B"; a draw-thru turbo and/or centrifugal blower setup.

In this diagram, I have "re-installed" the PCV valve into the front valve cover, utilized an inline one-way check valve between it and the upper manifold, relocated the crankcase breather hose pre-blower (and post-MAF), and placed a catch can (which helps to catch the oil vapors) inline. Here's what happens...

IDLE: All air is metered. Rear valve cover is under crankcase vacuum, drawing in fresh ventilation air from before the turbo and/or blower. PCV is present and manifold vacuum is aiding in proper crankcase ventilation via the PCV. Slight risk of minimal fuel and/or oil vapors entering the intake charge, but no contamination of the environment.

BOOST: All air is metered. Boost pressures do not affect crankcase pressure due to the one-way check valve being placed between the manifold and PCV. Since the boost pressures are keeping the check valve closed, crankcase ventilation cannot be vented through the front valve cover, and must be totally vented through the rear one. However, the vacuum produced by the blower helps to suck the increased pressures out of the crankcase. The majority of the fuel and/or oil vapors are caught by the catch can, and the rest are recycled into the intake charge instead of the environment.

My only concern with this setup is whether or not the nipple on the rear valve cover is actually large enough to vent all the crankcase pressures out of a single outlet. It could be modified and enlarged, of course... but I'm trying to also keep things as simple as they are effective. As such, I kept looking for another option.

That option is Diagrams "C" and "D".

Both of these diagrams illustrate the exact same PCV system on both F/I setup types... which is what I currently believe to be the MOST effective PCV setup possible (both at a very reasonable cost and with a simple installation).

IDLE: All air is metered. Rear valve cover is under crankcase vacuum, drawing in fresh ventilation air from before the turbo and/or blower. PCV is present and manifold vacuum is aiding in proper crankcase ventilation via the PCV. Very little risk of fuel and/or oil vapors entering the intake charge with a "proper" catch can inline, and no contamination whatsoever of the environment at the same time.

BOOST: All air is metered. Boost pressures do not affect crankcase pressure due to the one-way check valve being placed between the manifold and PCV. The vacuum produced by the blower helps to suck the increased pressures out of the crankcase, but at the same time, practically all the fuel and/or oil vapors being vented from the valve cover are caught with the "proper" catch can, and whatever may be left are recycled into the intake charge instead of the environment.

So the next question is... what is a "proper" catch can? Obviously, you can see from the diagrams that it is chambered to basically combine 2 catch cans into one (2 separate catch cans being the key to this system), but it goes a bit deeper than that. Anyway - I found one that would be IDEAL... and believe it or not, it's quite a bit different from some of the over-advertised (and poorly designed) "vented overflow tanks" quite a few of you guys have purchased from various vendors.

Now I'm not trying to say anyone is doing it technically "wrong" (even though at this point I seriously believe that you've been "misguided" - LOL), for as I said before... your current setups seem to be "adequate". I'm simply offering what I personally consider (and intend to prove) to be a better option than anything else currently available for the ventilation system on these cars.

Now... let's see who's interested.


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post #2 of 104 Old 04-27-2008, 04:08 AM
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

Nice info. I've seen it done from the passenger side too though. By closing the driver side one, and adding a T in between valve covers.


link to the "proper" one you found?


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post #3 of 104 Old 04-27-2008, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

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Originally Posted by Zaion View Post
Nice info.
Possibly... but unfortunately, still flawed (after looking over it again this morning). But I'll get to that in a moment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaion View Post
I've seen it done from the passenger side too though. By closing the driver side one, and adding a T in between valve covers.
Well here's another couple of edited diagrams; one showing (hopefully) what you're describing, as well as my own single revision to both the "C" and "D" setups above. I didn't bother with doing a diagram for each setup as they are basically the same other than the location of the MAF.

I did, however, add airflow markers for both idle (green) and boost (red) to all of them (including the original) to help everyone understand what's going on.





OK. I'm guessing (best as I can tell) that Diagram "E" is what you were describing. But if it's not... explain further and I'll fix it. If it is, however, there's still the exact same drawbacks as with Diagram "A". You don't have any manifold vacuum acting on the system under idle or boost, aiding in ventilation and ring seating... not to mention where is the fresh air that is necessary to help circulate and ventilate the blowby A/F vapors at idle coming from?

In fact, this may actually be a worse setup than "A", for at least in that one you have two separate lines; one running to each valve cover. As such, one could possibly draw in air to the rear valve cover while the other vents it from the front (that is, as long as there is no conflict at the rather small air filter... which would then cause the vapors being vented by the front cover to be drawn back in by the rear one).

In Diagram "E", however, there is absolutely NO way for fresh air to be drawn in, as you have T'd both lines into one... and it's physically impossible for air to flow in both directions in the single tube at the same time.

Anyway - on to Diagram "F".

After further analyzing "C" and "D", I realized that with either of those setups, you would still be running into the same primary problem as you would with Diagram "B"... which is that under boost, the manifold pressures would keep the single one-way check valve closed, thus keeping the PCV side from venting the crankcase pressures. Basically, the pressures trying to go in opposite directions would conflict at the check valve, and everything would still have to be vented from the rear valve cover.

So I added another check valve, and a couple of T's. Here's what happens now...

IDLE: All air is metered. Rear valve cover is under crankcase vacuum, drawing in fresh ventilation air from before the turbo and/or blower. This is the path of least resistance, as check valve #2 is keeping the manifold vacuum from drawing fresh air in from before the blower and down that line. PCV is present and manifold vacuum is aiding in proper crankcase ventilation at idle via the PCV. Tthe manifold vacuum which is keeping check valve #2 closed also keeps the PCV ventilation going back to the manifold instead of back into the intake charge (not that this would be a major problem, as the A/F and oil vapors have been removed). Very little risk of fuel and/or oil vapors entering the intake charge with a "proper" catch can inline. No contamination of the environment whatsoever.

BOOST: All air is metered. Boost pressures do not affect crankcase pressure due to the one-way check valve being placed between the manifold and PCV vent line. The vacuum produced by the blower helps to suck the increased pressures out of the crankcase and into the intake charge from both the PCV line AND the rear valve cover in this scenario, rather than it being vented into the environment. This is fine considering practically all the fuel and/or oil vapors being vented from the valve cover are caught with the "proper" catch can.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaion View Post
link to the "proper" one you found?
I'll consider disclosing that publicly once I see if anyone is actually interested in the info I'm putting in the time to figure out and post up about (just to help the community). And quite honestly... they seem to be few and far between at this point (seeing as though you're the only one who has posted thus far - LOL)!!

No use helping those who don't want to help themselves, right?


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post #4 of 104 Old 04-27-2008, 04:39 PM
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

well, what if you instead of a T (diagram E) you intercept it?

Rear Valve Cover -> Catch Can -> Front Valve Cover,

I really wish i could say with 100% certainty how they do it down here, but I havnt seen the setup in a while...

And what about those that have the MAF after the blower? Would its still be the same? If been thinking of making mine draw-thru though. But once again, nice info since I'm installing one soon


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post #5 of 104 Old 04-27-2008, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaion View Post
well, what if you instead of a T (diagram E) you intercept it?

Rear Valve Cover -> Catch Can -> Front Valve Cover,

I really wish i could say with 100% certainty how they do it down here, but I havnt seen the setup in a while...

And what about those that have the MAF after the blower? Would its still be the same? If been thinking of making mine draw-thru though. But once again, nice info since I'm installing one soon
Having the MAF blow-thru wouldn't matter, as long as the main ventilation line in Diagram "F" hooks into the intake piping anywhere after the MAF like it did in diagram "C" (same as it was in the stock configuration) while all the T's and check valves stay in the same location same as they are in "F".

And the problem with the "intercept" method (with a check valve inline, of course, or else you'll be blowing boost back into the crankcase) is while you are adding manifold vacuum back to the PCV system to keep thing normal under manifold vacuum at idle, there's no additional catch can on the rear valve cover. As such, if crankcase pressure gets so high that the PCV valve won't flow as much ventilation as is necessary, you'll end up blowing A/F and oil vapors out the rear cover (which is common) into either the intake charge or the environment (depending on how it's set up... and without that "proper" catch can). You'd also be running into the conflict where the PCV side couldn't vent under boost (with the check valve in place) as in "B", "C", and "D"..

Now as for the the actual setup that the majority of people are currently running, all I know if what has been "recommended" by a select few... and that is basically removing the PCV and venting both stock valve covers to atmosphere (in various configurations). But IMHO... this is far from the best way for several reasons (as discussed above)...

But you know what? All of this also got me to thinking about the original SDS setup, and the lean ST fuel trim tuning issues we were originally having under closed-loop (which I originally thought were solely because of a shotty manufactured BPV). However, all this being considered - it's quite possible that some of the issues were due to the fact that running the crankcase breather hose to the end of the air filter while blow-thru (as was "recommended") was actually creating a vacuum leak in itself by allowing unmetered air into the crankcase (and eventually the engine).

It just goes to show what happens when thing aren't FULLY thought out before doing them (which, admittedly, I'm guilty of as well at times).


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post #6 of 104 Old 04-28-2008, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

Man. 120 views... and 4 replies (two of those being my own).

Doesn't ANYONE else have anything to add, ask, comment, or constructively argue?


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post #7 of 104 Old 04-30-2008, 03:31 AM
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

Is the vented catch can better for a S/C setup than a non-vented?
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post #8 of 104 Old 04-30-2008, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

Simple answer - no.

The reason for this is that with a vented (to atmosphere) catch can, you're eliminating the vacuum from the system... which helps to draw out the crankcase fumes and aid in ventilation. In fact, some people actually use electric vacuum pumps to reintroduce this vacuum into the system after going F/I, and there are even more advanced (and better) setups that actually cost thousands of dollars.

The setup above basically does the same thing... as well as it can be done with simple, affordable setup, that is


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post #9 of 104 Old 04-30-2008, 07:53 AM
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dzignr_tastz View Post
Simple answer - no.

The reason for this is that with a vented (to atmosphere) catch can, you're eliminating the vacuum from the system... which helps to draw out the crankcase fumes and aid in ventilation. In fact, some people actually use electric vacuum pumps to reintroduce this vacuum into the system after going F/I, and there are even more advanced (and better) setups that actually cost thousands of dollars.

The setup above basically does the same thing... as well as it can be done with simple, affordable setup, that is
SO mas opposed to the cambered catch can, we could hook up an electric vacuum pump to the spot where the filter would normally be and have it pump out to atmosphere?

Wouldnt the vacuum pump need to be speed-controlled in relation to the RPM?

I mean, you wouldnt want a full strong vacuum at idle would you?

Im really trying to understand this, your diagrams are a great help. To put it bluntly: what are the drawbacks to having a non-vacuumed vented catch can? I know you mentioned ring seating....could you elaborate on the negative impacts the "standard" vented system would have on your engine.

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post #10 of 104 Old 04-30-2008, 12:19 PM
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

Hi there, I just wanted to know if pumping fumes from the motor into the atmosphere would cause your gas milage to go down? I only ask this because it seems like all cars are design for the crankcase fumes to be recycle into the combustion chamber. Is this just for emmissions control or does it help with the gas milage?
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post #11 of 104 Old 04-30-2008, 12:24 PM
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

I want to do a custom turbo setup in the near future. Do believe having too much of a vacuum in the crankcase can cause damage or sputtering from 5-10lbs of boost.

Because honestly I rather recycle the fumes instead of letting it go in the atmosphere.
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post #12 of 104 Old 04-30-2008, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

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Originally Posted by Spitzer View Post
SO mas opposed to the cambered catch can, we could hook up an electric vacuum pump to the spot where the filter would normally be and have it pump out to atmosphere?

Wouldnt the vacuum pump need to be speed-controlled in relation to the RPM?

I mean, you wouldnt want a full strong vacuum at idle would you?

Im really trying to understand this, your diagrams are a great help. To put it bluntly: what are the drawbacks to having a non-vacuumed vented catch can? I know you mentioned ring seating....could you elaborate on the negative impacts the "standard" vented system would have on your engine.
You could... but wiring up an electric vacuum pump and making it RPM dependent would probably be more difficult (and expensive) than this... so why bother?

And you're right. Ideally, you would want to have slight vacuum at idle and have it increase as boost (and blowby... and crankcase pressure) increases - to a max of probably about 15 in. With the stock system, this is controlled solely by the IM vacuum acting on the PCV... and as vacuum decreases with throttle, the PCV opens more and allows more crankcase pressure to flow by it. However, while this is fine for N/A engines, you still lose the vacuum (from the IM) as you you near WOT and atmospheric... so it's still not perfect.

In the setup above, the PCV still controls the vacuum range of manifold pressure (just as stock), but as the turbo and/or blower increase in RPM, it actually creates more vacuum by sucking more air by the vent tube (the Bernoulli effect). And considering the vacuum helps vent the crankcase pressure more quickly, there are several positive effects (rather than discussing the negatives).

First, less crankcase pressure restores wasted HP that is lost compressing and pushing out the crankcase pressures when vacuum is not present (as by venting to atmosphere). Additionally, less crankcase pressure keeps the rings from "fluttering", and better ring sealing means better fuel economy (due to less less blowby) as well as lower emissions and once again... more HP.

Now of course this is a more eco-friendly solution than venting to atmosphere, but at the same time it is also more engine-friendly, as the catch cans eliminate practically all of the oil vapors before the air re-enters the air charge (which can increase the chance of detonation). And theoretically, I suppose it could also increase fuel economy a bit more if the some of the A/F vapors (which are thinner than oil vapors) are recirculated back into the engine.

Just a few things to consider...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Norubit7 View Post
Hi there, I just wanted to know if pumping fumes from the motor into the atmosphere would cause your gas milage to go down? I only ask this because it seems like all cars are design for the crankcase fumes to be recycle into the combustion chamber. Is this just for emmissions control or does it help with the gas milage?
Well this is primarily for emissions control, but and as I stated above... the recirculation of oil vapors in addition to the A/F vapors can actually hurt performance and increase the chances of detonation. However, with the catch cans eliminating practically all the oil vapors in the setup above, this is no longer an issue.

And if I had to guess on your other questions, I'd say yes... it could lower fuel economy, for the absence of vacuum under boost conditions coupled with increased crankcase pressures can cause more blowby than normal. This would result in more of your A/F charge being spent into the crankcase.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Norubit7 View Post
I want to do a custom turbo setup in the near future. Do believe having too much of a vacuum in the crankcase can cause damage or sputtering from 5-10lbs of boost.

Because honestly I rather recycle the fumes instead of letting it go in the atmosphere.
Considering in this setup the PCV still controls idle vacuum and your boost vacuum only increases in relation to the airflow pulled through the turbo... I wouldn't worry a whole lot about too much vacuum.

And yeah - while I not an avid eco-freak, I agree that if there is an "as-good" (or better) solution available versus venting to atmosphere, for about the same price of a couple bucks more... I'll take it and feel good about "doing my part".


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post #13 of 104 Old 05-01-2008, 02:15 PM
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

thank you for sticking this. This has a bunch of good diagrams

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post #14 of 104 Old 05-01-2008, 02:28 PM
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

This bit confised me:
Quote:
Now of course this is a more eco-friendly solution than venting to atmosphere, but at the same time it is also more engine-friendly, as the catch cans eliminate practically all of the oil vapors before the air re-enters the air charge (which can increase the chance of detonation). And theoretically, I suppose it could also increase fuel economy a bit more if the some of the A/F vapors (which are thinner than oil vapors) are recirculated back into the engine.

Just a few things to consider...
So having less oil in the blow-by (and therefore less oil entering the combustion chamber) INCREASES the chance to detonation?? or if the oil entered the combustion chamber it would increase the risk.

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post #15 of 104 Old 05-01-2008, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

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Originally Posted by Spitzer View Post
This bit confised me:

Quote:
Originally Posted by dzignr_tastz View Post
Now of course this is a more eco-friendly solution than venting to atmosphere, but at the same time it is also more engine-friendly, as the catch cans eliminate practically all of the oil vapors before the air re-enters the air charge (which can increase the chance of detonation). And theoretically, I suppose it could also increase fuel economy a bit more if the some of the A/F vapors (which are thinner than oil vapors) are recirculated back into the engine.

Just a few things to consider...
So having less oil in the blow-by (and therefore less oil entering the combustion chamber) INCREASES the chance to detonation?? or if the oil entered the combustion chamber it would increase the risk.
Sorry. This should fix it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dzignr_tastz View Post
Now of course this is a more eco-friendly solution than venting to atmosphere, but at the same time it is also more engine-friendly, as the catch cans eliminate practically all of the oil vapors (which can increase the chance of detonation) before the air re-enters the air charge.
Hopefully, that rearrangement clarifies things. Basically, oil entering the combustion chamber (regardless of how it gets there) increases the risk of detonation by weakening the A/F mixture.

This can primarily happen one of two ways (in an otherwise mechanically sound engine with a F/I setup). First (and the one I was talking about) is from oil vapors from the crankcase being vented back into the intake charge... in which case an "oveflow reservoir" venting to atmosphere would be better than a sealed "overflow reservoir" recirculating back to the IM. This is because while a sealed "overflow reservoir" may catch some of those vapors... since they are in fact VAPORS (and not liquid), some of them will simply circulate around inside the can and be pushed right on out the outlet port and into the engine.

However, with a "proper" baffled catch can (such as the one pictured below... which is what I'm suggesting for the setup we're discussing), it is designed in such a way that practically all of the oil is removed from the crankcase vapors and kept in the can (by causing it to condense) before the cleaned air recirculates back into the IM and/or intake charge.



The second scenario is oil making it's way past the rings into the cylinder (which in reality, is the opposite of blowby... but happens due to the same reason). Blowby is compression and A/F charge going OUT, while the detonation would be caused by oil coming IN... but both are caused by the rings failing to seal properly. Some of this problem can be caused by high crankcase pressures pushing on the underside of the rings and breaking the seal... but adding vacuum back to the system will help to eliminate this potential issue.


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post #16 of 104 Old 05-05-2008, 09:47 AM
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

Thanks for the information. I appreciate the response.
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

i have a question then, i thought all catch cans were created equal LOL. so mine has two "dump" inlets at the top and is just a canister. and there is a place at the bottom with a plug but its all sealed, so is that what i want?

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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

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Originally Posted by faus03 View Post
i have a question then, i thought all catch cans were created equal LOL. so mine has two "dump" inlets at the top and is just a canister. and there is a place at the bottom with a plug but its all sealed, so is that what i want?
I was thinking the same thing. Someone mentioned in a thread that putting steel wool inside the can would help.
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post #19 of 104 Old 05-09-2008, 09:29 AM
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

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Originally Posted by chinoyboi14 View Post
I was thinking the same thing. Someone mentioned in a thread that putting steel wool inside the can would help.
help with what?

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post #20 of 104 Old 05-10-2008, 05:50 AM
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

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Originally Posted by faus03 View Post
help with what?
Help with condensing the vapors in the can.

Does anyone know what the size of the OEM PCV is?
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post #21 of 104 Old 05-10-2008, 10:30 AM
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dzignr_tastz View Post
Sorry. This should fix it...



Hopefully, that rearrangement clarifies things. Basically, oil entering the combustion chamber (regardless of how it gets there) increases the risk of detonation by weakening the A/F mixture.

This can primarily happen one of two ways (in an otherwise mechanically sound engine with a F/I setup). First (and the one I was talking about) is from oil vapors from the crankcase being vented back into the intake charge... in which case an "oveflow reservoir" venting to atmosphere would be better than a sealed "overflow reservoir" recirculating back to the IM. This is because while a sealed "overflow reservoir" may catch some of those vapors... since they are in fact VAPORS (and not liquid), some of them will simply circulate around inside the can and be pushed right on out the outlet port and into the engine.

However, with a "proper" baffled catch can (such as the one pictured below... which is what I'm suggesting for the setup we're discussing), it is designed in such a way that practically all of the oil is removed from the crankcase vapors and kept in the can (by causing it to condense) before the cleaned air recirculates back into the IM and/or intake charge.



The second scenario is oil making it's way past the rings into the cylinder (which in reality, is the opposite of blowby... but happens due to the same reason). Blowby is compression and A/F charge going OUT, while the detonation would be caused by oil coming IN... but both are caused by the rings failing to seal properly. Some of this problem can be caused by high crankcase pressures pushing on the underside of the rings and breaking the seal... but adding vacuum back to the system will help to eliminate this potential issue.

Great. Now where the heck do I find a baffled catch can? lol

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what you hit your running lights. your dash goes on your radio window colors. clock.
Thanks for the diagnosis....lol. wtf?

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post #22 of 104 Old 05-10-2008, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

Quote:
Originally Posted by faus03 View Post
i have a question then, i thought all catch cans were created equal LOL. so mine has two "dump" inlets at the top and is just a canister. and there is a place at the bottom with a plug but its all sealed, so is that what i want?
A short while ago, I thought the very same thing. Little did I know... LOL!!

As for whether or not it's what you want... only you can decide that. I'm just trying to help educate everyone a bit more by passing along the info I've learned. But I will say it's not what I would want (at this point).

Quote:
Originally Posted by chinoyboi14 View Post
I was thinking the same thing. Someone mentioned in a thread that putting steel wool inside the can would help.
I imagine that would help to some extent.

However, while this could be an option for a vented catch can... it would be somewhat difficult to get steel wool into a sealed catch can. Also, you'd still be allowing some vapors to "pass-thru" unless you could fill it to the point where the steel wool would be directly intercepting all of the incoming air.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spitzer View Post
Great. Now where the heck do I find a baffled catch can? lol
Ahhh... the real question!!

Don't worry. I'll be compiling a complete list for of what you would need for this setup (including the exact, dual-chambered can pictured above) and where to get it in due time. As for right now, I'm still curious if anyone sees any potential problems with the layout and design of the system, or if someone might have any suggestions or improvements?

Basically... some real feedback?


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post #23 of 104 Old 05-10-2008, 02:53 PM
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

so this is going to be like a dzignr catch can setup GB? lol


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post #24 of 104 Old 05-10-2008, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

Nah. I'm not looking to make a profit, and don't feel like the headache of a GB - LOL!!

Like I said - I'm realistically looking for some real feedback. I haven't actually tried this myself as of yet (as my engine - and car - is still in pieces), but am simply trying to figure the BEST way to do things when I do put it ALL back together.

Now is this the BEST way? I'm really not sure... but it's the BEST I've been able to come up with on my own thus far. The catch can I found seems to be of a better design than most I've seen up to this point (considering the basis behind the operation of one), and I feel it's a better option than any others I've read about (and broken down to the basics) thus far... but other than that, I'm still working as I go.

Hell - I found a flaw in my first stab at it myself!! Anyone else want to find one? I suppose there could be more...

Anyway - also keep in mind that none of this has been tested (as of yet). And while it sounds ideal to me, other than a few people have asked a question here and there, very few have really taken the time to try and help me analyze the situation. Is this ACTUALLY a better way to do things, or not?

So I guess until I feel 100% comfortable that very question has been sufficiently answered (beyond the shadow of a doubt in MY mind), I don't want to go making anything more than "suggestions" to a bunch of people here. After all - I don't want to be responsible for blowing up anyone else's engine than my own (not that I think this would, either way... but still). And when I reach that point (either by getting some real feedback or by testing it myself)... I'll divulge all the necessary info for anyone that wants to do this themselves to be able to.


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post #25 of 104 Old 05-10-2008, 04:36 PM
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Re: Proper PCV Configuration?

I was reading a corvette forum and they are using manifold vaccum as well. Alot of them are installing cheap see threw fuel filters that they change every month or when it gets dirty. Of course the have catch cans but somewhere inbetween the manifold and catch can is a fuel filter. Hope this helps and Im thinking of doing this to see if my car idles a little better.
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