Ok so after tons of PMs and questions i figured this would help out alot of folks. Tyler and other fitment gods feel free to chime in and add to my post.
The offset of a wheel is the distance from the hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel.
There are three types of offset:
1. Zero Offset: This means that the hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.
2. Positive Offset: The hub mounting surface is toward the front (face or wheel side) of the wheel.
3. Negative Offset: This means that the hub mounting surface is toward the back (or brake side) of the wheel’s centerline.
Tiburons come with the following wheel specs from factory.
5x114.3 lug pattern
17inch x 7inch wide wheel
67.1 wheel hub bore
Offset is important in order to clear and make wheels flush to fender. To make it clear, the combination of wheel width
is key to calculating how close to Fender or Shock the wheel will be.
Use this calc to preview your exact setup. calc; http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
. more detailed; http://www.rimsntires.com/rt_specs.jsp
With that being said in my experience and throughout the setups I have seen on our cars; there are many levels of "flush". It is all about what will work for you and your preference.
Aggressive documented setups:
7.5 wide ??offset
9 wide wheel 35 offset
8 wide wheel 15 offset
8 wide wheel 10 offset
9 wide 15 offset
9 wide 10 offset
9 wide wheel 25 offset
9.5 wide wheel 35 offset
All of these setups are about the same in (-/+ some mm) in fender flushness.
SO what does that mean? what those documented numbers mean are true and tried numbers to get better fitment. You can either go less aggressive or more aggressive. Again it is preference based.
So you will pick out a setup you like and pick out a wheel that has the closest offset to your goal.
If youre lucky and find a wheel with the perfect offset to achieve your goal then proceed to next step (Choosing Tires) .
If not SPACERS and wheel ADAPTERS are needed.
Spacers and Adapters
For the most part; Spacers come in 5-15mm variations. Adapters come in 10-30mm variations. Spacers are great if you need a 5mm clearance somewhere or just want a slight poke on the wheels. Any spacer larger than 5 mm needs extended lug bolts. It is not safe to run anything larger than 5mm on the factory studs.
Adapters are great for the aggressive poke of normally lower offset wheels. There are several types of adapters. I strongly recommend hub-centric adapters. This allows your wheels to remain centered on the hub.
Oem Tires: 215/45/17
Tires in general all have their own specifications(ie, speed rating, treadwear, ect.). When it comes to tires we can be here all day. For fitment purposes we will discuss sizing only.
ex. 225/40/18. 225 indicates width, 40 indicates side profile, 18 indicates wheel size.
Depending on your preferences you can choose several sizes to put on your wheels. In example if you have an 8 inch wide wheel you can put a 165 width tire (stretched) or a 235 width tire (chunky and bubbly).
It is up to the owner to do the calculations and figure out which look is possible and affordable. Tire Sizing Calculator; http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalcold.html
Most wanting a more aggressive fitment have alot of choices to make. to give you an idea of how some stretched setups will look like research sites like; http://www.tyrestretch.com/index.php
Tire Stretching is done primarily to gain some clearance in the fender. If you choose a really wide wheel and install a chunky tire more fender work will be required to make it fit and stop rubbing.
NEW TOOL TO HELP CALC TIRE STRETCHING
No matter what tire preferences you might have there is one guarantee with our cars; when it come to aggressive fitment, there is always fender rolling
involved. Even if you are not lowered, on dips and bumps you will encounter rubs with anything more aggressive than a 35 offset on an 8 wide wheel
. This is the baseline. Any specs that equals more aggressive than that on our cars will result in rubbing. Never fear, rolling your fenders can be done easily with patience and some funds. http://www.rollyourfender.com/instruction.html
will show you vaguely how it is done. For extreme setups, a "pull
" or fender lip cutting
will be required. http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/131382...esistance.html
So fenders are rolled, you are lowered, and you still rub. Well it most likely comes from your Plastic Fender Liners and/or Rear Bumper to Fender Bolt
. This is pretty self explanatory but here are some visual aids;
Not only is proper alignment important for good tire wear and handling, it can also gain you some needed clearance to put the stop or minimize your rubbing. Depending on suspension components you have installed you will have options as to what and how far your alignment capabilities are. The Tiburon does NOT have any factory camber adjustment. This can be adjusted through aftermarket camber bolts or rear trailing arms.
What you want to pay attention to is (in order) ride height
, then toe
. Ride height will change your camber, and changing your camber will affect your toe, and that will affect your overall alignment and steer ahead. So save time and money and setup in that order. Naturally you cant set toe or camber at home without an alignment rack. So lower the car, adjust camber to where it makes you happy and/or does not rub and then take it to get aligned and fine tune adjustments.
Its not as easy as buying crazy wheels and tires. There is huge amount of time invested in setting up and dialing in suspension and fine tuning fender work. Depending on how extreme the wheel setup will be, that will determine how much work you have ahead of you. Given that some of us have already done the hw and messed around with some setups you can use our experiences and numbers to calculate your own setups. In hopes that it will make the process a little bit easier.