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Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition)

DIY: 
39K views 62 replies 28 participants last post by  The_Evenger 
#1 · (Edited)
Welcome to the Complete & Definitive DIY Guide to Heated Seats Installation!

I’ve created this new DIY for a few reasons:
-- First, the existing DIY does not include steps or pics for the wiring setup. Wiring can be intimidating, and I can’t blame anyone for not wanting to attempt it without some familiarization.
-- Second, while its photos can be helpful, I believe they could be updated to include more detail (or to be cleaner).
-- Third, there has been a recent surge of folks (probably because it's winter) looking for help on this mod, myself included.

This DIY will consist of four posts:
Post #1: Removing the seats & fabric;
Post #2: Continued fabric removal, heated pad installation, and reassembly;
Post #3: Wiring up the seats for toasty goodness.
Post #4: Reinstallation & toasty goodness!

I know that pictures are worth 1000 words, so I’ve included as many as possible. I encourage you to read through the entire DIY before you begin, so you’ll know what to expect and will recognize what you see.

Since this one’s kind of lengthy and deals with electricity, I must throw in a disclaimer: I am about to show you the method I used to successfully install my heated seats. Perform this mod at your own risk. I recommend all electrical work be performed with the battery disconnected, and all appropriate personal protective equipment be used/worn when applicable. You, the modder, accept all responsibility and risks inherent with automotive modification.


Now that that’s out of the way, let’s begin!


  1. Disconnect the battery. Remember, your seats are equipped with airbags, so the less we confuse the computer about what’s connected (or not), the better.

  2. Remove the (4) 14-mm bolts holding the seat in place -- (2) in the front, and (2) in the rear. The (2) in the rear are under the square plastic covers, which will pop off with a flathead screwdriver.





  3. Rock the seat back in place, to access the wiring underneath. Collect your winnings (old receipts, loose change, etc.)



  4. Disconnect the (2) yellow wire harnesses. (Also, one additional white plug on the driver’s side.) One is simple, just push in the “catch tab”, and pull the plug. The other is more tricky (so I included some pics); pop it out of the black holder, then pull back on the large yellow casing. Then, pull the plugs apart.





  5. Remove/disconnect any remaining cable ties/attachments that would prevent you from removing the seat. Don’t be afraid to cut them off (if you can’t get them out); you can always zip-tie them back in later.



  6. The seat is now fully disconnected. Remove the seat from the car, and take it wherever you plan to work on the pad installation.

  7. If lumbar support is present, remove lumbar adjuster using Philips-head screwdriver.



  8. Remove seat rear hardcover, by first pulling it back at its top. Don’t be afraid to yank it hard – it’s held on by two tight metal clips. Once these clips are off, then rotate it open and pull it up, to disengage the hooks at the bottom.











    Now let's work on the upper cushion fabric:
  9. Disengage the clips/hooks holding the fabric tightly in place, at the back of the seat. Note, at two locations you’ll encounter hog rings; twist them open with pliers. You may want to remove these so you don’t lose them.







  10. Remove the headrest.

  11. Remove the headrest post sockets. Looking up from inside the seat, you’ll see the tips. Squeeze them tightly with pliers, and push/bump them out.





  12. Time to start removing the fabric from the upper seat! Rather than remove the lever mechanism which makes the seat fold forward, just peel all the fabric back towards the seat-folding lever. Don’t be afraid if you hear “tearing” sounds near the “lower back” section … it’s just the Velcro in seams! However, near the “upper back” section, you’ll encounter three hog rings. Open the rings, pull out the underwire, and flip the removed cloth over the shoulder with the seat-folding lever.







    General tip on hog rings: Here's a good system for hog ring removal/installation:
    1. Grab one side of the ring with your needle-nose pliers, and twist the pliers. This will create a gap in the ring ends.

    2. Then, simply turn the ring so the gap is parallel to the metal underwire, so you can pull the underwire through it. Leave the hog ring in place.

    3. During reinstallation, turn the ring again, pop the underwire in, then squeeze or twist the ring closed.


-- End of Post #1: Removing the seats & fabric --

-- Next, in Post #2: Continued fabric removal, heated pad installation, and reassembly --
 
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#2 · (Edited)
DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition), Part 2 of 4

-- Post #2: Continued fabric removal, heated pad installation, and reassembly --


Ok, back to seat cover removal … you've already got the fabric out of the way on the upper cushion, so let's move on to the lower cushion!

Unfortunately, I’ve just discovered I didn’t take any good photos of the bottom cushion's bottom... So, I’ll have to borrow two photos from the old DIY…


Removing the fabric from the lower cushion will be easiest if the cushion is loosened or completely removed. So,

13. Loosen and/or remove the (4) bolts under the bottom cushion to loosen/detach it.




14. Remove the fabric by unhooking the clips, pulling back two strips of Velcro, and doing battle with (9) more hog rings.






Now that the seat fabrics for both the top and bottom cushions are out of the way, it’s time to install the pads!

15. The pads have adhesive on one side, so simply peel the adhesive back and stick them on. Be sure to get the "bridge" pieces tucked deeply into the seams.








Once you’ve installed the heating pads, now it’s time for reassembly!

16. Connect the upper & lower pad wiring together with the blue wire connectors/plugs (which are already attached to the upper & lower pads). Ensure the white wire connector/plug is still accessible for later.


17. Reinstall the fabric for both the upper & lower cushions by reattaching the hog rings, pressing the Velcro seams together, and reattaching all the clips, pulling the fabric tight (don’t forget those two extra hog rings you removed).


18. Reinstall/retighten the bolts for the bottom cushion, if you removed/loosened them.


19. Reinstall the headrest posts & headrests.


20. Reinstall lumbar support handle (if present).


21. Now, repeat this entire seat removal / disassembly / pad-installation / reassembly process for the other seat. Helpful assistant optional:







-- End of Post #2: Continued fabric removal, heated pad installation, and reassembly --

-- Next, in Post #3: Wiring up the seats for toasty goodness --
 
#3 · (Edited)
DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition), Part 3 of 4

-- Post #3: Wiring up the seats for toasty goodness --


Now it’s time to attack the wiring.

Firstly, your kit should have come with (or you should have obtained) the two in-dash switches, which have six pins, like this:



Here is the breakdown of what these pins will do:
Pin 1: Power-in for red backlighting
Pin 2: Ground for red backlighting
Pin 3: Ground for green on/off light (when switch is “on”)
Pin 4: Not used
Pin 5: 12V power in
Pin 6: 12V power out to accessory (when switch is “on”)



In a nutshell, here's a sketch of what we're about to set up:



You don't need to be an expert to do this, and you don't need to solder anything -- so don't worry!


Your heated seat kit may have come with some sort of crazy wire harness to run from the switches, which might look like this:


Bottom line is, you don’t need anything like this. All you need are the two harnesses that plug into the switch pins. The harnesses I installed came without a wire at pin 4 (since it’s not used). If your harnesses have a wire here at pin 4, you can either cut it off or just don’t connect it to anything.

What you’ll need for wiring:
-- 18 gauge wire (your choice of colors; I bought red & black)
-- Twist caps (examples below)

-- Splices (example below)

-- Bullet connectors (examples below)

-- Wire strippers / crimpers
-- Pliers
-- Multimeter (recommended)


Anyway, back to the step-by-step :

22. Remove the center fascia in the dashboard by gripping it with your fingers from the bottom, and carefully pulling it out. The snaps will pop out, a few at a time, as you work your way from the bottom to the top.


23 Remove the two dummy switches on the right , simply by squeezing their upper & lower tabs, and pushing them out from behind.


24. Install the new switches, by simply pushing them in from the front.


25. Verify your battery is disconnected, or work with hot wiring at your own risk!


26. Cut a short new section of wire and strip one end. Strip the ends of both new harnesses’ wires for pin #1. Using a twist cap, join all (3) wire ends – pin #1 wire from L switch, pin #1 wire from R switch, and end of new wire. Splice the other end of the new wire into pin #1 wire from the foglight switch. You’ve now tapped into power for the backlighting.

27. Cut a short new section of wire and strip one end. Strip the ends of both new harnesses’ wires for pin #2. Using a twist cap, join all (3) wire ends – pin #2 wire from L switch, pin #2 wire from R switch, and end of new wire. Splice the other end of the new wire into pin #2 wire from the foglight switch. You’ve now tapped into the ground for the backlighting.
(NOTE: Tapping into the ground here – instead of making your own ground – will ensure the backlight dims properly using the dimmer switch.)
(NOTE 2: My harnesses came with pin #2 wired from R harness directly into L harness pin #2, and then one additional wire out from L harness. As such, I simply performed this step with the one harness wire instead of both)

28. Cut a new section of wire long enough to run from the harness wires to the cigarette lighter, and strip one end. Strip the ends of both new harnesses’ wires for pin #3. Using a twist cap, join all (3) wire ends – pin #3 wire from L switch, pin #3 wire from R switch, and end of new wire. Splice the other end of the new wire into the black ground wire at the cigarette lighter. You’ve now tapped into the ground for the on/off green light.




29. Cut a new section of wire long enough to run from the harness wires to the cigarette lighter, and strip one end. Strip the ends of both new harnesses’ wires for pin #5. Using a twist cap, join all (3) wire ends – pin #5 wire from L switch, pin #5 wire from R switch, and end of new wire. Splice the other end of the new wire into the blue power wire at the cigarette lighter. You’ve now tapped into power for your switch and seat pads.




30. Stop the bleeding gushing from your thumb wound that you mysteriously obtained while sticking your hands inside the dash.




Before wiring up pin #6, let’s do the wiring on the seat side:

31. Find the white harness on the end of the heating pad, (which is lost & lonely, looking for somewhere to plug in). Put it out of its misery, by cutting it off. You’ll note there are three wires here (on mine, two black, one yellow)
.



32. Unravel the electrical tape, and you’ll find where the black wires have been split from one. Cut these off just before the split, so now you have one black and one yellow wire .


33. Strip the ends of the yellow wire & black wire. Install a bullet connector tip on each one.


Now, let’s run some more new wiring, under the center console and seats. Here’s your chance to make it super-clean … Remove the center console as follows:

34. Remove the shift surround by unbuttoning the boot (near the top of the shifter), and then pulling up on the surround. Easiest place to pull is under the lip of the boot. Pull the surround off, by pulling it up & over the shifter.

35. Remove (3) screws from each side of the center console, as well as (2) screws under the shift surround.


(Ignore the seat in this pic, it's really not there.)




36. As you start to lift the console, pop the e-brake cover out from below or from the end.




37. Lift the entire center console up and out of the car!


Now that you have access under the console, let’s run some new wire!

Here are a few pics of what you're about to do:






38. Strip the end of your new power wire (whatever color you picked), and install a bullet connector tip on it – the opposite type that you installed on the power wire from the pad!


39. From the center console area, feed the new end under the carpet towards the seat area. Pull it through with enough slack to plug it in later.


40. Estimate/measure the amount of wire you’ll need to run it up the center console and behind the dashboard, to the switch. Cut it to this length and strip the end.


41. Strip the end of the applicable seat’s harness wire for pin #6. Using a twist cap, join this wire end with the new one you just ran. You’ve now established power to your pads for that switch, when the switch is on.


42. Ground wire time! Strip the end of your new ground wire (whatever color you picked), and install a bullet connector tip on it – the opposite type that you installed on the ground wire from the pad!


43. From the center console area, feed the new end under the carpet towards the seat area. Pull it through with enough slack to plug it in later.


44. Estimate/measure the amount of wire you’ll need to run it down the center console to the grounding location shown in the photo. Cut it to this length and strip the end.


45. Back the ground bolt off a few turns, wrap the stripped end of the ground wire under it, and tighten the bolt back down. Now you’re grounded!


46. Repeat the previous eight steps for the other seat. I recommend zip-tying the wires to the yellow airbag wire bundle, to keep everything clean & in place.


Now you’re all wired up … but before we reinstall the seats, let’s test our wiring job.

47. Plug the harnesses into their respective switches.

48. Verify your power & ground wire tips are not touching.

49. Reconnect the battery, and turn the key to accessory. Turn the parking lights on.

50. Verify the backlighting is on, and dims properly with the dimmer switch.

51. Verify the on/off light works, by turning the switch on.

52. Once the switch is on, connect your multimeter (on volts) between the power & ground wire tips. If power is flowing as it should, the multimeter should read around 12V.

53. If any of the above don’t work properly, then you’ll have to perform some troubleshooting. Check all your connections, splices, twist caps, etc. (Be sure to turn everything off and disconnect the battery if you’re going to handle anything.)

54. If the lights & power work properly, then now you’re in the home stretch!


-- End of Post #3: Wiring up the seats for toasty goodness --

-- Next in Post #4: Reinstallation & toasty goodness! --
 
#34 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition), Part 3 of 4

-- Post #3: Wiring up the seats for toasty goodness --

What you’ll need for wiring:
-- 18 gauge wire (your choice of colors; I bought red & black)
-- Twist caps (examples below)
Sigh... or you could use butt connectors with heat shrink, as should be done in automotive applications. :3_headsha sorry dude...
 
#4 · (Edited)
DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition), Part 4 of 4

-- Post #4: Reinstallation & toasty goodness! --



Time to reinstall everything!

55. Reinstall the center console with the (2) center screws and (6) side screws. Don’t forget the e-brake cover too!


56. Reinstall the shift surround by snapping it back into place.


57. Reinstall the center fascia by snapping it back into place.

58. Place the seat in the car, and reconnect all the yellow (& white, if driver’s side) harnesses. Also, connect your two new bullet connector sets for seat pad power & ground. Zip-tie anything into place that’s hanging around too loosely.




59. Reinstall the (4) bolts which hold the seat in place.

60. Reinstall the (2) caps which cover the rear (2) bolts.

61. Repeat for the other seat.

62. Reconnect the battery.

63. Turn the car on (either to accessory or started up), push the switch, wait a minute for it to warm up, and enjoy your sweet, sweet success of warm toasty goodness!!!

Also, enjoy the look of your completed switches!





To those who are reading this to get a feel for the work involved: Yes, there are many possibilities of work sequences when it comes to working each seat and/or cushion ... just like there are infinite possibilities of how to do the wiring. You don't have to follow my steps exactly. I'm just providing one setup that works.

To those who are reading this because you've just worked through it: CONGRATULATIONS! You've completed a long and difficult -- but extremely rewarding -- mod!



-- End of Post #4: Reinstallation & toasty goodness! --

-- End of DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition) --
 
#5 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition)

DIY complete, moderators ... ready for your "approval" and moving to the appropriate section!

lol ... this DIY took almost as long to write as it took to work!


Good luck everyone!
 
#6 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition)

very nice, too bad i can't get the switches for my 07. if i could the heated seats would have been in already
 
#7 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition)

very nice, too bad i can't get the switches for my 07. if i could the heated seats would have been in already
Don't they have little round switches by the shifter for the 07s?
 
#9 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition)

yay....u used SFRs kit right?
I bought the kit off someone else who'd had it but never installed it. I can only assume it was SFR's kit. As long as he's selling the authentic Hyundai / Mobis parts, then you should be good to go.
 
#11 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition)

he doesnt sell a kit..just the pads...hmm..
Does he sell the switches and thw switch wire harnesses? Really all you'd need are the pads, the switches, and two switch wire harnesses. The rest of the wiring is made by you!
 
#15 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition)

he sells the siwtches and pads..no harnesses that I know of..
Hmm. Well, definitely not a showstopper either. Your choices are to find some tips that can connect to the pins, or simply solder some wire to the pins themselves. (You can put bullet connectors on the end of the soldered wires too, if you wanted to have them be disconnectable...


kiick azZ DIY man! whoo. very nice..:3_winkthu
Thanks!


yes, that is where they are.so i would need the new switches and the new shifter surround where the switches go. nobody is selling them. i have asked kdmguy, kspec. i never get an answer.
Bummer! Well, you could always work up some kind of custom switch... I remember seeing all sorts of "james bond" style switches rigged up, if you search the forum...
 
#18 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition)

Would harnesses made for the foglight switch work for the heater switches? I'm thinking they would, but just to be sure. And then from there you could just plug the wires into the harness maybe?

Although, if I was to get two harnesses from a Hyundai dealer, they'd probably already have wires built into the harnesses right?
 
#21 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition)

holy f**k

someone that can actually take reasonable macro shots...


nice DIY lol
 
#22 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition)

Sweet DIY Stimpy. I didn't get near as you while doing this :D. Great work man. this will be very helpful.
 
#26 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition)

nice diy but i dont have fog lights either! :(
 
#27 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition)

Wow one day I hope to do wiring like you :D If you look behind the radio and under the seats, my wiring is a little messy and I can see someone working on the car being really confused...I guess this comes with experience huh.
 
#28 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition)

hey guys!

so my heated seats switches just came in, and id like to install them so they at least light up for now, as i dont have the heat pads yet. im using the switches to fill the void in the two blank spots on the drivers side. so how would i got about doing the wirring? since im not anywhere near the fog light switch. should i run all the wiring to the cigarette lighter? if one of u guys could make me a new wiring diagram for wiring them in next to the drivers door, that would be great!
 
#29 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition)

hey guys!

so my heated seats switches just came in, and id like to install them so they at least light up for now, as i dont have the heat pads yet. im using the switches to fill the void in the two blank spots on the drivers side. so how would i got about doing the wirring? since im not anywhere near the fog light switch. should i run all the wiring to the cigarette lighter? if one of u guys could make me a new wiring diagram for wiring them in next to the drivers door, that would be great!
have you tried to put them over there? do they even fit properly? might want to test that first.

if they do, you can probably splice the wires into the "dead switch" wiring that's already in place ... reference http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135929 for more details on those wires there.
 
#35 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition), Part 4 of 4

Stimpy2301;2863582... just like there are infinite possibilities of how to do the wiring. You don't have to follow my steps exactly. I'm just providing one setup that works.[/quote said:
Already covered....
 
#38 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition)

great DIY! ill be using this for sure!


off topic: what is that switch next to your foglight switch?
I was wondering the same thing.

I have heated seats, came with the car. They arent extremely warm or anything and take a while to even get there but that little added head sure is nice in the winter! great DIY!!
 
#41 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition)

Hey Just to summarize cause I gotta say im a bit confused..sry electrical newb.

I am going to need:

18 gauge wire (your choice of colors)
-- Twist caps (or the butt connectors with heat shrink)
Heating pads from SFR
dreamka4u has the pig tails for the switches
Heated Seat Switch Set - SFR

And then obviously tools....is that all correct and is that everything?
 
#43 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition)

Hey Just to summarize cause I gotta say im a bit confused..sry electrical newb.

I am going to need:

18 gauge wire (your choice of colors)
-- Twist caps (or the butt connectors with heat shrink)
Heating pads from SFR
dreamka4u has the pig tails for the switches
Heated Seat Switch Set - SFR

And then obviously tools....is that all correct and is that everything?

You're missing:
-- splices (for splicing into existing wires without having to cut them)
-- bullet connectors (to allow for a disconnect if the seats ever have to be removed)


where can i get a harness from for the switches? Do you have a picture of your switch hook up from the back?
By a harness, are you talking about for all the wires to plug into the back? The "pigtails" you mention are exactly that.

This picture is a nightmare (which is probably why I hadn't posted it originally) ... but hopefully it'll show you what you need. The fascia is pulled off and facing towards the left, so you can see where the back ends of the switches protrude, which have the harnesses plugged in.

Good luck ...

 
#47 ·
Re: DIY: Heated Seats (The Complete & Definitive Edition)

clarified some things for me, where can I get those harnesses? cant find the previously mentioned user.
I too am wondering about the harness. The aforementioned website is no longer active...

I poked around a pit, but was unable to find them either. I think I have one or two extra, but I've been saving them for another mod. Keep looking, or ask around!

Worst case, you've already got one, plugged into the back of the dead switch left of the steering wheel. You could go cut that one out (with the battery disconnected) and at least use that one...
 
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