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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Starting a project on a tib I just acquired with 111k miles.

Stuff already done:

New battery
New timing belt
New rad
New water pump
Etc new cooling system
[email protected] air filter ( in box have bad exp with CAI and short ram in past)

Future stuff I already bought pending install:

Ebay headers
Ebay catback ( basically borla replicas)

Future plans:
Chase206 ECU reflash
Upper and lower IM aftermarket
Weight reduction (not taking the spare or jack out just general weight reduction not one of THOSE guys)
Pearl body paint (exterior is very best up luckily no dents just rust and wear and tear)
Elantra rotors for weight reduction
Lightweight rims

Will post pictures of the poor girl after work she has no make up right now but will be great soon

I always was a fan of how tibs looked on nfsug2 I always chose it as my car.

I know "gts" tibs don't exist that's just what I will dub her

Wheel Tire Car Automotive parking light Land vehicle

Wheel Tire Car Automotive parking light Land vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What issues have you had with short ram intake?
Overheating, granted that was in a 1998 Altima with a bad head gasket but it just seems like the few cars I've put aftermarket air intakes on end up being a headache. I may cave who knows I'm for sure taking off that resonator as I hear mixed opinions on if it helps air intake or not just seems like 5 pounds on the engine with no purpose.
 

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Absolutely ditch the resonator. And I've never had issues with intakes on any of the 3 Tibs I've owned.

Looks like you're on the right track with other maintenance issues.
 

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2006 Hyundai Tiburon SE
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Nothing wrong with a CAI... but an SRI is just sucking up hot air from the engine bay so it's a useless mod. The OEM air box has a snorkel that goes into the fender area and does a better job than an SRI does. Also an SRI is likely to cause too much turbulence on the MAF if you don't have around 6" or more of pipe between the filter and the MAF sensor. Most people throw a filter on the end of the MAF and call it an SRI. That will cause the ECU problems picking up on the airflow accurately and throw off your AFRs.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nothing wrong with a CAI... but an SRI is just sucking up hot air from the engine bay so it's a useless mod. The OEM air box has a snorkel that goes into the fender area and does a better job than an SRI does. Also an SRI is likely to cause too much turbulence on the MAF if you don't have around 6" or more of pipe between the filter and the MAF sensor. Most people throw a filter on the end of the MAF and call it an SRI. That will cause the ECU problems picking up on the airflow accurately and throw off your AFRs.
Thanks for the replies!

With that info I'll probably add a cai on the list remove the resonator keep the hose so it's actually sucking cold air.

Have either of you tried the Elantra rotors? On the mod thread he said it will shorten stopping distance but it will be fine if you aren't driving crazy.

The 20x8=160 static weight which will save some HP at the wheels which id really like
 

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I have not done that brake mode. Infact I'm going bigger to the xg350 brake swap because I want better braking power. The Elantra brake swap was intended for the drag strip.
 
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How much weight are you talking with the rotors? I bet it's not even noticeable. More people go the other route of bigger brakes like the XG350s at least for the front. My car already had those done when I bought it.

And yes a cold air intake does have its benefits. On my current car I have a full length cold air but also added an Injen hydro shield just to lessen any potential for hydrolocking from sucking up water. If you want to keep the filter in the engine bay then the Injen SRI is the only way to go. Any shorter and it's just a hot air intake like Chase mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
How much weight are you talking with the rotors? I bet it's not even noticeable. More people go the other route of bigger brakes like the XG350s at least for the front. My car already had those done when I bought it.

And yes a cold air intake does have its benefits. On my current car I have a full length cold air but also added an Injen hydro shield just to lessen any potential for hydrolocking from sucking up water. If you want to keep the filter in the engine bay then the Injen SRI is the only way to go. Any shorter and it's just a hot air intake like Chase mentioned.
Eh 160 pounds in theory (rotational weight x8=static) basically one less person in the car. Chase is saying it was meant for the drag strip so I'll be looking at lightweight rims like I said with the spare and jack I'm not gonna be one of those guys if the stopping distance was slightly shorter that would be okay but drag strip only sounds sketchy.

Right on, usually CAI or SRI were the first mods I'd do because eaze this time around I'm looking to check all the other boxes first. Probably because I kinda have a "build all the HP I can then make it sound powerful", mentality.

Same with aesthetics as well this body needs a paint job and some love but once again I've always "pimped" out my cars before doing anything to make them worthy of it.

Added pics of the beater atm in op
 

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I expected worse from what you said of the paint. My 07 was a lot worse than that when I got it. Now she's pretty though after a full-body vinyl wrap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I expected worse from what you said of the paint. My 07 was a lot worse than that when I got it. Now she's pretty though after a full-body vinyl wrap.
Oh those pictures are flattering tbh there are deep key scratches up and down the sides that have started to rust. Probably only visible to someone that walks right up on the car.

Prior owner got their car keyed badly, also I've heard of the gas caps losing color fast but the spoiler is turning this dark weird discolor is that standard as well?
 

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Oh those pictures are flattering tbh there are deep key scratches up and down the sides that have started to rust. Probably only visible to someone that walks right up on the car.

Prior owner got their car keyed badly, also I've heard of the gas caps losing color fast but the spoiler is turning this dark weird discolor is that standard as well?
Not unheard of. All the plastic parts tend to do that--gas cap, gills, spoiler, door handles, sometimes even the bumper covers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So just a general question here what is everyone doing for IMs these days just having the stocks customized? I searched the standard sites and just found completely stock IMs from either tibs or Santa fes doesn't seem to be any prefabbed stuff anymore.

Also thoughts on throttle bodies? Found a few good high flow ones but unless I missed it I never see them on anyone's mod lists. I'm expecting that to be another (maybe 1-2 HP gain at the wheels) like the IMs but just getting everything mapped out atm.
 

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The aftermarket is DEAD. There was only ever 2 aftermarket intakes that were produced in large and that was the NGM and Imotoria intakes. And there were really only a handful of aftermarket TBs available.

You've got 4 basic options for the upper intake:

1) Find an ultra rare NGM stage 4 and bolt on and go.
2) Port your OEM to "stage 3" which is about 40mm.
3) Send off your OEM to be ported and have a custom plenum welded to it.
4) Mu 2.7L intake swap. Requires upper, lower, fuel rails, custom flange welded for TB, custom IAT sensor and some kind of RPM based actuator to open/close the flaps in that intake. Something like a VTEC controller could be used to actuate the flaps. Or a custom tuned 2009 Sportage ECU with the 2 extra outputs for the variable intake it came with on the Delta 2.7L.

You've got 3 basic options for the TBs:

1) Find an ultra rare NGM 70mm big bore TB or one of the Tiger lilly 60mm TBs.
2) Send your OEM off to be bored to 58mm by maxbore.com
3) Adapt another TB to your intake and workout how you're going to adapt the OEM TPS to that new TB.


So what I've down while N/A is I ported my upper and lower intakes. The intakes can be ported from about 36mm per runner to 40mm per runner which is a good size upgrade. I reshaped the inside of my 55mm TB and polished the inside to help flow easier but kept the same 55mm throttle plate size for now. The throttle body upgrades don't do much unless you are twisting your motor all the way out to 8K RPM and need that extra oomph. Some of the Tiburon veterans ran dyno comparisons of the OEM 55mm TB against the 60mm TBs at the time and there was little to no difference.

Just for fun I bought a Mu 2.7L intake and a 75mm Porsche TB to adapt to my N/A motor. I managed to get a 2009 Sportage ECU working on the Tiburon that would, in theory, add the two RPM based outputs needed to actuate the variable intake runners. Obviously the 75mm TB is probably useless but the diameter matches the plenum side with the old TB flange cut off so it would be as efficient as can be. I haven't completed this project yet and I may pass it up because I'm about to bolt on that Alpine stage 2 kit I just acquired. Here are some pics of the Mu 2.7L intake:

http://instagr.am/p/CL8TqsDju0D/ http://instagr.am/p/CMF23oCjqvo/ http://instagr.am/p/CZFxsw4Ow7B/
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I see thanks for the info, I was just going to do a basic port and polish clean up some imperfections, also clean off 111k miles of build up. Engine enamel paint em blue and throw em back on.

I don't trust myself enough to widen the manifolds so the next best option is to clean and polish what is there and grit down some of the imperfections which I'm sure I'll find.

Apparently I found a billet TB that says it fits the tib 67 on eBay. I'm always sketchy on eBay stuff however. If you search it's easy to find and there are a ton of them.
 

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Talking about one of these?
Rectangle Font Parallel Circle Number



Those universal "billet" throttle bodies never fit right and you have to adapt the TPS to fit the body of it anyway. The bolt patterns do not match up. There is a couple of guys that successfully used those universal throttle bodies like SelfMadeDIY on Youtube with some fabrication. So it is possible with some ingenuity.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Talking about one of these?
View attachment 137899


Those universal "billet" throttle bodies never fit right and you have to adapt the TPS to fit the body of it anyway. The bolt patterns do not match up. There is a couple of guys that successfully used those universal throttle bodies like SelfMadeDIY on Youtube with some fabrication. So it is possible with some ingenuity.
Figured as much thanks for the info would of been a waste of 70 bucks lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So on the subject of weight reduction what have people found? There is a thread but it mostly just lists weight of stuff. As previously mentioned spare and jack are off the table. Same with backseat however useless it may be I have a daughter.

Anything that will make the inside look silly as well.

I've found some lighter weight rims, a hood that's a bit lighter. Headers will take some weight off due to the manifold being cast with precats inside vs stainless with no cats. Would imagine cb exhaust will weigh around the same. Bore'd IMs should be a touch lighter but after that drawing blanks.
 

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Not much else available these days. CF hoods are much lighter than stock, and there used to be a CF hatch option but I'm pretty sure that's dead now. People have been known to delete the A/C to save weight, that becomes a hassle vs benefit argument. You could delete the spoiler but it's plastic and doesn't weigh much anyway.

So yeah, if you're not into ditching the spare and tools, seats, or gutting the interior there's not much else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So done some research I'll be able to ditch about 300 pounds with seats, hood, rims (rotation mass converted), resonator box delete, etc.

The etc will be a ton of work for low amounts of weight basically converting bolts from steel to aluminum, doing stuff like that.

Received the exhaust today it's one of those god snow eBay ones that seem to have good reviews for the price. Having a buddy throw those, the headers, and some IMs on next paycheck.

I decided to get some junk yard IMs and work on em, some important things are connected to the IMs that I don't feel comfortable messing with.

I am comfortable with a Dremel however so the loophole is buy the parts port and polish and have the guy throw on.
 
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