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So done some research I'll be able to ditch about 300 pounds with seats, hood, rims (rotation mass converted), resonator box delete, etc.

The etc will be a ton of work for low amounts of weight basically converting bolts from steel to aluminum, doing stuff like that.

Received the exhaust today it's one of those god snow eBay ones that seem to have good reviews for the price. Having a buddy throw those, the headers, and some IMs on next paycheck.

I decided to get some junk yard IMs and work on em, some important things are connected to the IMs that I don't feel comfortable messing with.

I am comfortable with a Dremel however so the loophole is buy the parts port and polish and have the guy throw on.
There's a guy in the Facebook groups named TeeJay Ouk that does port work. He doesn't do a full stage 4 lower and stage 3 upper but he cleans up the casting marks and gives it smothish finish that still maintains a good boundary layer for airflow. He only charges $350 for labor and return shipping. You have to provide the manifolds though. He's only taking 5 port jobs at the moment so message him quick to lock in a spot.
 
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You can always dump 40 lbs by switching your lead battery to a lithium battery


I run these in all my stuff now, even the ATVs. Just waiting on the battery in the tib to die before I do that one too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
You can always dump 40 lbs by switching your lead battery to a lithium battery

www.antigravitybattery.com

I run these in all my stuff now, even the ATVs. Just waiting on the battery in the tib to die before I do that one too.
Thank you for the heads up chase!

Also falcon that domain is dead sadly dunno if you knew but I didn't really think of the battery good point!
 

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I think he meant:

 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I think he meant:

Well I can see what people mean once I'm spending 600 bucks on a battery to cut 40 pounds probably were better off to go f/I lmao
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Not really any different than buying a carbon hood either when you think about it. Price and weight are similar.
Nah I agree only extra plus about the hood is it looks cool I guess. Does get extra air under the hood as well which arguments could be made about small performance gains that way.

Same arguments could be made for the battery minus weight, good quality electricity, does also look more aesthetic than the pos battery I have under the hood rn.
 

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Same arguments could be made for the battery minus weight, good quality electricity, does also look more aesthetic than the pos battery I have under the hood rn.
Its actually way more powerful, and lasts longer. One of my atvs has one in it for 3 years now. Still cranks over like i hooked a full size car battery up, its crazy. The AGM batteries I was using in it I was having to replace about every year at $120 ea. The antigravity cost about $250. Its paid for itself now.

On top of that, they have an immense amount of tech in it. The battery has self protection for grounding out, or crossing the terminals. They also have a drain protection like if you have a parasitic draw, or listen to your radio a bunch with the car off. The battery disconnects at low voltage to stop the draw, you push a button, and you can then start your car again. They call it self jump start or something.

The price tag is tough to swallow sometimes, but i dont fool around with lead stuff anymore. Totally worth it in my eyes now. I use their HD jump pack for work and its amazing what it actually gets cranked up. My only complaint on the jump pack is it wont sustain a running vehicle due to the self protections cutting voltage after a few seconds.

We use a JNC jump box for moving vehicles with dead, or no battery in the chassis. The battery in that box is going bad too (8 years old), so i plan to convert it with one of their small lithium batteries. Its the way of the future boys...
 

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Short Ram intakes are useless.
if you want to keep the filter in the engine bay then the Injen SRI is the only way to go. Any shorter and it's just a hot air intake like Chase mentioned.
You're talking about the one with the filter between the battery and fuse box? Yes, better, but that's still within the bay and will experience heat
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Anyways back to OP,
You said the catback is basically Borla?? I'm intrigued lol. I am a fan of Borla and have 2 unused sets in my garage right now one of which is getting installed on my 2.0L.

Also you said you're "not one of those guys" when it comes to weight reduction but you're swapping out your brakes to the Elantras for that??????? I understand not taking out the backseat because you have a daughter, but replacing all the bolts to aluminum and porting out millimeters of material from a manifold will yield NO substantial weight loss.
Here's my recommendations for weight loss: lighter wheels. Your 16" weigh 26lbs while the 17" wheels that came on later model GT are 22lbs. The aftermarket 17" I have now weigh 15.8 and the difference is noticeable...almost concerning in a way. BC Coilovers are also substantially lighter than the strut/shock assembly, but don't go out buying cheapass suspension like Racelands as they'll often perform worse than OEM (stiffness =/= grip). You can ditch the windshield washer reservoir for like 10lb and the stock IM bracket (located behind the manifold up against the firewall held in by 3 bolts) which will save you 1lb if that. But I recommend this moreso for the ease of future maintenance.
 
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Short Ram intakes are useless.


You're talking about the one with the filter between the battery and fuse box? Yes, better, but that's still within the bay and will experience heat
__
Anyways back to OP,
You said the catback is basically Borla?? I'm intrigued lol. I am a fan of Borla and have 2 unused sets in my garage right now one of which is getting installed on my 2.0L.

Also you said you're "not one of those guys" when it comes to weight reduction but you're swapping out your brakes to the Elantras for that??????? I understand not taking out the backseat because you have a daughter, but replacing all the bolts to aluminum and porting out millimeters of material from a manifold will yield NO substantial weight loss.
Here's my recommendations for weight loss: lighter wheels. Your 16" weigh 26lbs while the 17" wheels that came on later model GT are 22lbs. The aftermarket 17" I have now weigh 15.8 and the difference is noticeable...almost concerning in a way. BC Coilovers are also substantially lighter than the strut/shock assembly, but don't go out buying cheapass suspension like Racelands as they'll often perform worse than OEM (stiffness =/= grip). You can ditch the windshield washer reservoir for like 10lb and the stock IM bracket (located behind the manifold up against the firewall held in by 3 bolts) which will save you 1lb if that. But I recommend this moreso for the ease of future maintenance.
The Elantra rotors idea is out, once I heard it was just for drag that idea was down just haven't edited yet.

This far I :

Took resonator off which weighed 7 lbs total yes I scaled it all I only kept the one plastic hose down to fender.

I took out the rear sub and casing I'm just gonna get good front speakers. That was 21 pounds.

I took the engine cover off didn't weigh that but it was like maybe 3-4 pounds.

Haven't had a ton of time been real busy working but yeah that's the progress this far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Well here's before and after of manifold I bought used off a broken 41k tib. Polishing tool broke half way through the process so couldn't do much for the runners cleaned everything up and sanded down the weld bubbles inside I think the after is great compared to before.

Plant Wood Flooring Rectangle Grass

Table Product Drinkware Wood Countertop


It put the before picture second for some reason lol
 

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Looks great! If you used the high temp ceramic paint you can wait 24 hours or more after spraying them then bake them in the oven at 250F for 30 minutes to cure the paint. Let it cool slowly in the oven until you can touch it by hand. I've had really good results pre-baking the high temp ceramic paints before mounting them in the engine bay. The paint is rock solid and doesn't chip easily.
 
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Nice paint. Need to get my NGM ones done too. Want to do candy red but everyone does that lol
 
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Those eyelids make it look like it has rd2 headlights kinda cool. I gotta update the op but the girl isn't a huge fan of the pearl paint I was thinking more maybe like apple green like the supra from fatf1.

I'm starting to not like the pearl myself tbh a few Nissan cubes of all cars started popping up in town with THAT specific color and it kinda ruined it for me lmao
 

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The RD2 has very similar headlights to the GK once you remove the bumper.
 
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
So getting headers and exhaust installed next weekend. But before that I'll be going to the Dyno. I'd like to see a true stock baseline as all I've done performance wise is remove the resonator. I'll also have the intake heat wrapped and k&n inside the air box.

Then next plan will be a Dyno with ported tb, ported IMs ( I have someone to make em both a bit wider). And the reflashed ECU hopefully done by chase.

So it will be:

Stock dyno

Header/exhaust/intake Dyno

Ported IM, TB, ECU Dyno

?????? Dyno

Maybe by then I'll get cams done, a few others just keeping it simple right now
 
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