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I've gathered as many cam specs as I could in one place and posted them here:


Currently only Colt, Crower and Crane will do regrinds. Pross/LAP3 don't sell HiCams anymore but if you're lucky you may be able to find someone selling a used set from the Korean market places. The HiCams are probably the best you can buy because they start out as billet blanks rather than regrinds to the best of my knowledge.

Another performance bit you may find a 1-2hp out of is a bored throttle body. For the price it's not bad from maxbore.com especially with the trimmed shaft. A 58mm throttlebody with the add-on service trimming the shaft to 5mm has a cross sectional area that is 28.6% larger than the OEM 55mm with 10mm shaft. I don't know if that means 28.6% more airflow but every little bit can help.

A few months back I ran some numbers on various TB bore sizes and shaft sizes to show the increase in cross sectional area. A half shaft is removing one half of the shaft. The throttle plate is 1.5mm thick so the centerline of the plate divides that thickness in half to 0.75mm that you can't trim with a half shaft. Even with a half shaft you have a maximum of 5.75mm thickness. Maxbore will trim both sides of the shaft down to 5mm thickness combined.

Rectangle Slope Font Line Parallel
 
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I've gathered as many cam specs as I could in one place and posted them here:


Currently only Colt, Crower and Crane will do regrinds. Pross/LAP3 don't sell HiCams anymore but if you're lucky you may be able to find someone selling a used set from the Korean market places. The HiCams are probably the best you can buy because they start out as billet blanks rather than regrinds to the best of my knowledge.

Another performance bit you may find a 1-2hp out of is a bored throttle body. For the price it's not bad from maxbore.com especially with the trimmed shaft. A 58mm throttlebody with the add-on service trimming the shaft to 5mm has a cross sectional area that is 28.6% larger than the OEM 55mm with 10mm shaft. I don't know if that means 28.6% more airflow but every little bit can help.

A few months back I ran some numbers on various TB bore sizes and shaft sizes to show the increase in cross sectional area. A half shaft is removing one half of the shaft. The throttle plate is 1.5mm thick so the centerline of the plate divides that thickness in half to 0.75mm that you can't trim with a half shaft. Even with a half shaft you have a maximum of 5.75mm thickness. Maxbore will trim both sides of the shaft down to 5mm thickness combined.

View attachment 138032
What are your thoughts on spacers? I actually found a site with a few aftermarket parts (thank god) tiger racing they have a IM spacer. Apparently dynod on the stock tib auto went from 140 who to 147.

If so that could be a much cheaper alt to paying someone to increase the runners I was quoted nearly 300 for upper and lower 4mm increase and Dyno on that usually was like what 5hp max vs a 85 dollar spacer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
I just thought though dynos can be influenced if the first run stock was a cold run and the spacer run was a 2nd or 3rd run.

I've seen cars gain a few hp after warmed up so the actual hp gain from spacer was 3-4 probably but still that's close to what you get from upgraded runners if I'm not mistaken
 

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Dat pepto tib tho.....

So, im running an intake spacer, and a throttle body spacer. Mainly to block some of the heat transfer, as i dont think the spacing has much to do with it. Running a factory airbox with K&N filter. Disconnected the coolant lines from the throttle body and looped it back. All it does is generate heat in the throttle body for cold climate locations. Fresh NGK ix plugs and wires. Light weight fidanza aluminum flywheel, LSD and solid aluminum mounts.

Not too many power adders, and I have not dyno'd it. However, I can tell you it stays side by side with a 2014 FR-S as if they were identical cars..... so its at least as slow as that.
 

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7HP is alot. I think that's a bit of a stretch. The spacers work great but not 7HP great lol. I ran a spacer on my intake and throttle body with the TB coolant bypass mod. I have an AEM CAI with a high flow K&N filter down behind the fog light. My headers are wrapped and helps keep engine bay temps down.

Stay away from the soft phenolic spacers and opt for the hard compound phenolic spacers. I had to remove my intake spacer because it was too soft and would mushroom out creating a vacuum leak. I kept my TB spacer though.

Another mod that works really well is either a drop vent in the hood or hood hinge spacers. This creates a low pressure zone which draws more air through the engine bay and keeps temps down.
 
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
7HP is alot. I think that's a bit of a stretch. The spacers work great but not 7HP great lol. I ran a spacer on my intake and throttle body with the TB coolant bypass mod. I have an AEM CAI with a high flow K&N filter down behind the fog light. My headers are wrapped and helps keep engine bay temps down.

Stay away from the soft phenolic spacers and opt for the hard compound phenolic spacers. I had to remove my intake spacer because it was too soft and would mushroom out creating a vacuum leak. I kept my TB spacer though.

Another mod that works really well is either a drop vent in the hood or hood hinge spacers. This creates a low pressure zone which draws more air through the engine bay and keeps temps down.
The obx one appears to be a harder compound more metallic looking for half the price that shark one looks like rubber tbh lol.

That is a good point I'm not a car tech by any means but I went to school for HVAC hot air rises cold air falls. So something to let the air escape from the hood isn't a bad idea as all that hot air is looking for somewhere to escape.

A legitimate hood scoop or hood spacers would not be a bad plan at all. I do worry about water getting into the bay with a hood scoop however.
 

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Sorry I glazed over your comment about the ported intake manifolds. For $300 that's a steal if they are taking out 4mm of material from both upper and lower manifolds. Presumably they are gasket matching which means, the gasket is just shy of 40mm and the OEM runner sizes are about 36-37mm. That's a huge improvement of about 23.5% of the cross section area. I ported my own upper and lower and felt great gains from it. Gains from ported intakes will be much greater than the BBTB sold on SFR or Sharkracing for about the same price.

The OBX spacer is the one I bought. As it heats up it gets soft and mushrooms out enough to cause a vacuum leak on the intake manifold. I would recommend the rigid phenolic materials for the upper/lower joining point. The OBX will work great as a replacement for your throttle body gasket though! Just don't use gaskets with the soft TB spacer.

A forward facing scoop will not help you at all. That is old tech used by carbureted or supercharged V8s that simply isn't efficient on modern cars. You will also generate ALOT more drag with a forward facing scoop when compared to the drop vent. While forward facing scoops look cool as hell they just aren't good for anything but drag racing with unlimited torque on a machine that is already as aerodynamic as a brick wall. What you want is a drop vent so the air passing over the hood creates that low pressure zone and draws more air through the front radiator area and up out of the hood. The gains you get from a drop vent far outweigh the losses you get from a forward scoop in my honest opinion.

Personally if my car was garaged year round, I would go with the drop vent but I live in Seattle and that's not the best option for me. I'm going to machine some hood risers/spacers for about a 10-15mm height then remove the rubber weather trim at the rear of the hood.
 
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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
So just an update getting headers and catback installed this weekend. I have the air box with resonator uninstalled so just gonna cut a bigger hole put a less restricted hose than the snorkel dropped down and there is the cai. Thermal wrap for it.

I ordered:

Oem oil filter
Hose air filter wrap
Throttle body spacer

Gonna Dyno stock tonight then with H/E

Then with spacer, cai and wrap.
 

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Before you dyno the car, make sure you drive around some highway miles so that your LTFTs have a chance to settle in with every change you make. With the CAI it will dramatically change your LTFT baseline and could affect your WOT enrichment factor as a result. Monitor your LTFTs and if they rise to +15% or more you may need to try rotating your MAF a few degrees. The angle which the MAF is mounted sometimes matters with the weird bends from the CAI piping.
 
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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Font Screenshot Technology Darkness Software

I did give it a chance to warm up a bit I used perfexpert which by no means is 100% accurate (and neither are traditional dynos). I saw quite a few back to back dynos on youtube from the app then the real thing and they were usually within 10-20 HP.

I'm looking more for a somewhat reliable measurement of the mods and how much they help more than seeing the top whp or hp of the car.

The results were disappointing yet expected previous driver admitted they took zero care of the car I still need new everything on it so 141hp and 123 whp I can live with for the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I realized the road I was on was slightly uphill which effected the numbers. Went to a flatter road, rechecked the weather data and ran again. Got much more favorable numbers but this is why I hate how the car is atm sometimes the car is a beast when I press down the peddle sometimes it's a complete turd.

Font Slope Screenshot Rectangle Darkness
 

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141WHP is what we would expect from a bone stock manual car after power train loss. If the app uses OBD2 to read live data it's going to be delayed by up to 1s so that leaves alot of room for error. If you can, try enabling high speed OBD2 communication if your app allows it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
141WHP is what we would expect from a bone stock manual car after power train loss. If the app uses OBD2 to read live data it's going to be delayed by up to 1s so that leaves alot of room for error. If you can, try enabling high speed OBD2 communication if your app allows it.
About right on the dot then. Have removed the resonator, done very little weight reduction and have a stp high flow air filter so maybe that made up the difference between auto and manual as I have auto.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
141WHP is what we would expect from a bone stock manual car after power train loss. If the app uses OBD2 to read live data it's going to be delayed by up to 1s so that leaves alot of room for error. If you can, try enabling high speed OBD2 communication if your app allows it.
I missed what you said about obd. It uses phone calibration and then very in depth specs like gear ratio, vehicle weight, weather, etc.

When you start it the speedometer is freaky accurate on the app. I was getting weird data in 3rd because I don't have much power there it's all downhill after 2nd so I used 2nd gear.

Probably the way auto is tuned first off only 4 gears and you get to 4th so quickly lol. So I've seen 3rd gear being the go to for dynos on manual but I had to use 2nd.
 

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When doing road testing, do a couple runs each direction and average them out. It negates most road slope and wind errors.
 
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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
When doing road testing, do a couple runs each direction and average them out. It negates most road slope and wind errors.
Right I did a few runs highest was 141.1 whp lowest was 134 whp which like I said above some runs it's a beast and some it doesn't wanna go I've been slowly going through 1st gear then flooring it on 2nd. Like stated above the auto has a very weak 3rd gear the whp are crap on it and it quickly shifts to 4th lol.
 
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