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You'll need a bolt splitter to separate the catback bolts. Even on a creampuff like mine, after over a decade of Seattle weather they get rusty and had to be split.

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Attempted to do exhaust bolts were so rusty they stripped out I gave up lol
Which bolts? If the "spring bolts" for the catback, cut them off and replace, same for further back. Assemble with copper NeverSeize. Don't forget flat washers (both ends of the bolt) to help prevent bending the flanges.
 
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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
The exhaust flange bolts. They just crumbled apart. Not sure what the logic was with using iron bolts in one of the first places to rust on the underbody lol.

I have a guy that's gonna sort it out, he's probably gonna torch the bolts red hot I really don't have the time or energy for a big project right now and I was just rear ended so gonna have to stop by the junk yard there is a black tibby there and jack the front and now rear bumpers lol.
 

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Most bolts on a car are steel unless you get spendy and do titanium.....
 
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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Got the k&n box filter and heat reflective tape today and applied. Wasn't expecting to notice much but Jesus engine felt a ton more responsive I might even Dyno it tonight.

Not placebo either cus I wasn't expecting much maybe a few more ponies the butt Dyno wouldn't even feel.

Old filter wasn't even that dirty either so impressed 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Welp did 3 Dyno runs with perf expert one was 144 whp 146 whp and 147 whp so this one was about in the middle though it was the last run of the three.

So a gain of a couple hp from a good filter and heat wrap seems legit.

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Most bolts on a car are steel unless you get spendy and do titanium.....
I saw your thread btw about stubborn bolts gonna try this weekend. As I am going to leave the exhaust manifold and cat alone I'm going to try not to destroy that flange. I have pb, a propane torch, sockets, fitteds and vise grips I should be able to get those hunk of junk rusty things off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
So spent a good 5 hours last night messing with the exhaust flange. Pb soaker failed, yes I knocked off as much rust as possible. Torch failed. Nothing happened as a result of that. Broke out the sawzall and clipped one nut off. Took a look and the rust has actually fused over the years the flange appears to be welded together due to rust.

My last option here is to take it to a shop have em chop those things off and replace em. I would of done this myself if it didn't include welding back to oem position.

I did have an exhaust repair flange on hand but if I chopped an inch down it would throw off the whole prefab by an inch so I threw in the towel once again.

I did get that Tb spacer on, really noticed nothing from it other than the pedal seeming like it's stuck with gum at the start. Throttle seems a tad more responsive but I have to give it more boot so idk.
 

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You have to loosen the throttle cable a little bit if you add a spacer. If you still have the water hoses hooked up to your throttle body it will negate any effects you might see from it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
You have to loosen the throttle cable a little bit if you add a spacer. If you still have the water hoses hooked up to your throttle body it will negate any effects you might see from it.
Ah okay makes sense, yes I do I suppose I just cap off where the hose comes from. I think pf said earlier that just keeps the TB warm during the winter. I don't really get the mechanisms of that stuff seems like the manifolds would warm the TB up pretty quickly.

I found out the tib was ungaraged for 3 years
in rain and snow. Explains the huge amount of rust. Will have to go over everything on the underbody now. Sigh
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Ironically I had noticed a slight bumpy feeling in the steering wheel 4 days ago. Kept getting worse and worse as I drive the highway to get to work. Took it in yesterday and there was a very bad condition wheel bearing on the passenger side. Got a new hub too. So that set me back a bit.

However I did find a video that is a nice guide unless it's bad advice for porting of the IMs being that I'm good with a Dremel seems simple enough don't understand why he only did the lower but what do you guys think?

 

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He probably did only the lower because the upper is gard to port even though it mainly only needs porting on the last 90 degrees the rest of the upper manifold is already huge and to port that you have to cut the manifold open and weld it back. Also of you do port just port to the diameter of the factory gasket and make sure your porting evenly.
 

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Like rushking19 says, the upper is more difficult to port properly. You get the most gains out of the upper by modifying the 90 degree turn just before it enters the lower intake manifold so cutting one open isn't required. I roughly covered my port job on both upper and lower intakes on the following blog posts. Note that I used flap wheels which take a lot more time to complete. But it's harder to screw up with flap wheels because they take out less material. It is recommended to port the upper to the OEM gasket size, then port the lower to just above the gasket size to ensure you have no turbulence in the transition between the two manifolds.


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49mm is not possible where the upper and lower meet. The separation between runners ranges from 48-50mm so your runner walls would be non-existent!

If you meant 39mm that's about a stage 3 upper and lower. A stage 4 lower would be around 40-41.5mm and you would have to trim you gasket to fit.
 
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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
I guess I didnt take the time to measure I just left like 1mm before the gaskets as shown in that video. No air leaks however went on a 15 minute drive after installation.

I should add the diy made it seem like the fuel rails just pull off easily after the bolts are removed and that was not the case at all lol.
 

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I ported the upper and lower IMs to 49 and slapped them in. Btw what "stage" is 49mm ?

View attachment 138108
As chase said no way its 49mm there's not enough metal and even then there's not enough head port to support that 42mm is like the biggest I'd go thsts where the very opening of my fastco Motorsports lower intake manifold is ported to 42mm and that alone supported 265whp naturally aspirated on their cars. So 49 wouldn't even work at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Yup that was my mistake as shown in that video I just trimmed down a bit to nearly gasket match I'd estimate maybe 1.5-2mm to leave 1mm before the gaskets instead of like 3. Unlike that dude's video I did do the upper as well it had much less to trim however.

Science does support that airflow increases through an opening that is more like this / than like this l. Many articles say when the air has to make a 90degree turn like that it causes major turbulence.

This was the best feeling mod I've done thus far over the intake or the spacer. The old IMs were very dirty especially the lower was coated in oil and had some major casting bubbles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Cf fuel door added obviously a 100hp gain I'll be smoking hellcats from now on.
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I also took a few plastic panels in the trunk off like the seat belt covers on top of the trunk see no reason for those to be protected.

All jokes aside not much progress
 
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