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You were right my feet froze up bad lol.

I've searched and found multiple answers, what is the socket needed for the head bolts? Look like a torx or something of that sort.
I know about cold feet in winter.

Head bolts, a "star" looking head? Use a 12 point socket, I wanna say 15mm? I mostly use 6 point sockets for better grip but some head bolts are 12 point. Torx and Allen's are 6 point. Some cheap hardware and furniture stuff is square (4 point).
 
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You were right my feet froze up bad lol.

I've searched and found multiple answers, what is the socket needed for the head bolts? Look like a torx or something of that sort.
Should be a 10mm 12 point socket if my memory serves me correctly. They are torque to yield so you need both a torque wrench and a degree wheel to properly torque them down. Do NOT re-use TTY head bolts.

Yup they are like a hex more so, 15mm seems about right. I have a 3ft breaker bar from work so either the bolt will go or the socket will go lol.
Those allen key'd bolts are for accessing either water or oil passages. Do not remove them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
Should be a 10mm 12 point socket if my memory serves me correctly. They are torque to yield so you need both a torque wrench and a degree wheel to properly torque them down. Do NOT re-use TTY head bolts.



Those allen key'd bolts are for accessing either water or oil passages. Do not remove them.
Yeah I was talking about the bolts. Awesome and yeah I said in my post I'm buying new ones and a torque wrench.

Right now just disassembling
 

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Make sure you get a replacement radiator fan, that thing is screwed.
Agreed, that is likely a junkyard item for cheap. Bring almost any 12VDC battery and some small test leads to power it up to make sure it works. A quick spin by hand lets you see if the bearings are decent.
 
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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Btw...on the topic people talk about a/c delete...that compressor is HEAVY. Talking a good 60-70 pounds, still have to take off the rest of the lines too which won't weigh much but probably close to 100 pounds all together...
 

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Btw...on the topic people talk about a/c delete...that compressor is HEAVY. Talking a good 60-70 pounds, still have to take off the rest of the lines too which won't weigh much but probably close to 100 pounds all together...
Be sure you want to delete it though. Mine didn't work so I deleted the compressor, lines and condenser was a bit of weight probably like 60 to 70 ish pounds all together saved . But then again no ac
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
Be sure you want to delete it though. Mine didn't work so I deleted the compressor, lines and condenser was a bit of weight probably like 60 to 70 ish pounds all together saved . But then again no ac
Yeah mine never worked either. It's just a pain moving it outta the way. Engine bay is already crowded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
Basically just waiting till I have time to snag a space heater to continue work on the tib.

Here's my handy work on the Camry. New manifold, battery and belt.

Fusion started making a squeaky belt noise when running heat so looks like a belt needs replaced there. Unfortunately fusions have a drive belt that needs removed first, so makes it a bit more of a hassle.

Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
Was a decent enough day to do some more wrenching got the top timing belt cover off, power steering pump off and belt tensioner off. Having trouble locating the bottom timing belt cover bolt got the top and left one off I'll find the right one soon I know it's by that pulley.

Btw the ps pump is unbolted I'm just looking into getting it all the way off without spilling ps fluid everywhere lol.

Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive tire

Automotive lighting Flash photography Art Automotive design Automotive tire
 

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
Pull the power steering pump up near the strut tower. Like so but put something down to try not and scratch the paint.
I see you just bent it back and set it down on the tower good move. I was worried about the line breaking been running into extremely stiff hoses, that definitely need replaced regardless if they can hardly bend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
Make sure you get a replacement radiator fan, that thing is screwed.
Btw there was a "ridge", you said you couldn't get over to drop the upper oil pan was that the exhaust? Where it's bolted to the oil pan? Because besides that I'm not seeing anything obstructing if I get the rest of the bell housing bolts out ATM.

I got all the smaller inside bolts out, one bell housing bolt is being a pain. Turns out to be a 14mm bolt, I only have 9/16ths which is a tad to big so getting that tonight to try to get it the rest of the way out.
 

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Btw there was a "ridge", you said you couldn't get over to drop the upper oil pan was that the exhaust? Where it's bolted to the oil pan? Because besides that I'm not seeing anything obstructing if I get the rest of the bell housing bolts out ATM.

I got all the smaller inside bolts out, one bell housing bolt is being a pain. Turns out to be a 14mm bolt, I only have 9/16ths which is a tad to big so getting that tonight to try to get it the rest of the way out.
No, the exhaust was off when I was trying to remove it. My issue is the upper oil pan has some kind of a protrusion that goes around the rear main seal bracket that I couldn't get to clear the flywheel. The flywheel has a recess for it but I found it too small to get the upper oil pan out as it got stuck on the rear main seal bracket. maybe it's just an issue with my single mass flywheel... not sure. I'd be very interested if you can get yours out without pulling the flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
Yeah we will see those bell house bolts are extremely rusty. Basically every gasket and seal I've came across so far needed replaced. The lower oil pan gasket was rock hard. With all bolts off took a good amount of prying as it was fused on lol.
 
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