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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
you don't need to remove the pump. the bolts that go through the pan into the pump are accessed through the lower oil pan
I'll take a picture in a bit to show you guys. These bolts appear to go through to upper oil case. It won't even move as is with all inner bolts removed and all bell housing bolts removed besides one stud that snapped but that would BARELY be holding on.
 

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I'm not sure what I'm looking at in that picture, other than the starter... but all I can tell you is you need to remove the pan before you can remove the pump, I had to replace my oil pump last winter so I'm pretty sure of this. but I've been wrong before when I was really confident so ¯\(ツ)

I'm 99% sure it was just a bunch of bolts from the bottom and a few through the bell housing of the transmission. + 2 8/10mm bolts on the bottom near the bell housing. & don't forget the ones through the lower oil pan.

and I think the starter probably needs to be removed too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #167 ·
I'm not sure what I'm looking at in that picture, other than the starter... but all I can tell you is you need to remove the pan before you can remove the pump, I had to replace my oil pump last winter so I'm pretty sure of this. but I've been wrong before when I was really confident so ¯\(ツ)

I'm 99% sure it was just a bunch of bolts from the bottom and a few through the bell housing of the transmission. + 2 8/10mm bolts on the bottom near the bell housing. & don't forget the ones through the lower oil pan.
Including the 22mm as well right? I have literally everything else but that atm
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
And yeah my mistake I meant the starter I was mixing it up with oil pump since it's kinda attached but now I can see the flexplate nothing wrong with it besides being rusty and old lol
Automotive lighting Cloud Automotive design Automotive exterior Vehicle door
 

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Discussion Starter · #169 ·
Well now I see what you are talking about. I have everything off, maybe 1/4 of an inch of a broken stud holding it on and it's tight I can get it to shake a bit and come undone with a pry bar but it snaps back to shape after.

Really have no clue what could be holding it other than 1/4 of a broken stud which is so rusty it should of given out
 

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You might be able to get the stud out if you can get a needle nose locking pliers on it & heat up the area around it. I'm still not confident you could get the pan off even with the broken off bolt out. there isn't really anything else holding it on if it's flopping around, at that point it's just held in there by the flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #171 ·
Now that I have more education on this matter, I can sawzall that broken bit down the middle. That was the plan anyways just making sure not to go any farther than the stud aka sawing into the bell.

Get a jack under the tranny, loosen the tranny mount on the driver's side. Jack up the tranny a bit and the lip should come out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #172 ·
Going to test this theory tonight, only one guy said he did it. I'll have to get some sort of force on that upper oil pan and push towards passenger side, before that get all the seal loose.

Theoretically it will work because the fw lip will be raised enough to give the upper room to move.

If it works this will be a method where you DONT have to remove the entire engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #175 ·
Wait so you are going true dual?
Yessir, with rail style exhausts. Gonna have to be somewhat far from the side skirts because of heat.

Might have to run em down the middle then split. Won't have to fab hangers I can take a strip of sheet metal, wrap around and drill into frame as desired.

Really seems like it would maximize air flow. Each 3 cylinders can pump out as much as they want without being piled into the other in the middle.

I'm thinking 2 inch pipe will suffice. Won't need anything crazy big if 2.5 is about where they are together.
 

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Yessir, with rail style exhausts. Gonna have to be somewhat far from the side skirts because of heat.

Might have to run em down the middle then split. Won't have to fab hangers I can take a strip of sheet metal, wrap around and drill into frame as desired.

Really seems like it would maximize air flow. Each 3 cylinders can pump out as much as they want without being piled into the other in the middle.

I'm thinking 2 inch pipe will suffice. Won't need anything crazy big if 2.5 is about where they are together.
I highly recommend an x pipe or h pipe at least, you don't want to completely separate the exhaust banks. You loose scavenging plus it can give the exhaust and uneven sound. Just an recommendation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #177 ·
Maybe even 1.75. To keep the pressure high since they are split. No mufflers but resonators on both because no resonator sound is just hard on people's ears.

Will def be a weight loss even with "more pipe", because even the AM mufflers weigh a ton as does 2.5" pipe. Shorter path for both as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
I highly recommend an x pipe or h pipe at least, you don't want to completely separate the exhaust banks. You loose scavenging plus it can give the exhaust and uneven sound. Just an recommendation.
I guess even with smaller pipes to try to keep pressure up, one would be slightly shorter than the other giving the air less distance to travel thus giving the firewall bank an advantage and making the airflow a bit uneven.

Really first things first anyways crankshaft.
 

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I guess even with smaller pipes to try to keep pressure up, one would be slightly shorter than the other giving the air less distance to travel thus giving the firewall bank an advantage and making the airflow a bit uneven.

Really first things first anyways crankshaft.
An smaller pipe won't do that and it's not about pressure it's about exhaust scavenging and the sound. With them both separated completely with no x pipe it may end up sounding like two 3 cylinder engines running. Since the exhaust for each banks are completely separated. 2 inch piping will do just fine .
 
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