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Tools Needed
a. air gun
b. pneumatic socket set
c. T55 torx bit 3/8th inch drive or 1/2 inch if you can find it. we used a 3/8th inch with a hammer ratchet
d. complete set of 3/8th inch drive sockets
e. complete set of 1/4th inch drive sockets
f. variety of phillips head screwdrivers, and flathead screwdrivers
g. your brother, yea mines a tool !!! haha, nah I couldnt have done this without him, you guys may know him as Dogshark here in the forums







Pre-limin
Things to buy:
3 quarts 75W-90 GL4, we used Valvoline synthetic 75W-90
food
beer of your choice


Disconnect battery

Drain transmission oil


Procedure
I did this one using a shops car chassis lift. Much easier than trying to do it in your driveway with some jacks and jack stands.

First off was the wheels, than the wheel axle nuts.
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Next we supported the engine with a cherry picker, from the passenger side, to each side of the engine.
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remove both lower motor mounts, We first removed the bolts that go through the middles of them, but later realized when trying to remove the tranny, that the mount’s brackets were getting in the way, so We removed the front mounts bracket off the tranny, leaving the mount on the subframe and removed the rear mount completely.

once the motor was secured from dropping we got underneath and took down the sub-frame.
14mm, 19mm,
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now WATCH when dropping the sub-frame, you need to do a few things first!
-from the drivers side, from inside the car, in between the gas pedal and brake on the firewall, there is a 12mm bolt that holds the steering column to the rack and pinion. Loosen and remove the bolt.
I seriously suggest making a mark in the column, where the rack and pinion shaft goes into the steering column, with an exacto knife, or something small that will make a mark on metal, so you know where the rack and pinion goes into the steering shaft. I say this cuz I didn’t do it, and when all was done I couldn’t get the steering wheel straight, the car drived straight, but the wheel was off.
-also at the front of the subframe under the radiator, passenger side, there is a metal line from the power steering pump that goes down from the pump to the subframe and then loops back to the rack and pinion. This is a cooling line, and it must be removed form the sub-frame so that you don’t bend it and brake it and send power steering fluid flying everywhere. I forget how to remove it, because well, I didn’t remove it, and when we lowered the heavy *** sub-frame, it bent, but luckily it didn’t brake, the metal is very malleable, but if you bend it more than 2 or 3 times, Im sure it will split. We just got lucky.

Get all the brackets off that hold wiring to the trannsmission and plugs like the speed sensor
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Remove the cotter pins and washers from the shift cables
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Remove the bracket that holds the shift cables to the Trans, 2 10mm bolts
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remove the 2 bolts for the slave cylinder, and the shift fork lever nut, and take the arm off the nut so that it will allow the Throw-Out Bearing to be pulled out off the shift fork. If you don’t do this, you will have a hell of a time pulling the trans out, and if you do manage to pull the trans out, you will definitely break the pressure plate, so I hope you are not planning on reusing that pressure plate if you do not do this.
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Ok, now with all the little things out of the way, remove all the bolts from the sub-frame. Be careful with the frame, to not drop it on your head, foot, finger, or anything fragile you don’t want to break, this thing weighs about 75 pounds.
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now that the sub-frame bolts are loose, remove the 2 nuts and bolts from the shock absorber 17mm wrench 19mm socket and airgun
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so that you can move the spindle assembly back, WATCH the brake lines. Use a metal coat hanger and cut it up creating a hook about 6 inches long so you can suspend the spindle assembly in a fashion that removes weight from the brake line. DO NOT PULL YOUR BRAKE LINE TOO MUCH, or it will split crack or puncture,

When doing the driver side axle, its pretty simple, just move the spindle back and to the rear, pull the axle out of the spindle, you may need to love tap the axle out from the wheel side, because some axles rust up and get stuck in there. Now with the axle out of the spindle, get a screwdriver, a fairly thick one, and use it to pry the axle out of the tranny, once you get the axle out about an 1/8th of an inch, it should slide the rest of the way out, by hand.
Passenger side: same process here, but after you have suspended the spindle assembly and removed the ABS line (10mm bolt) and brake line (12mm bolt)you will use s screwdriver to pry the axle out of the half shaft. Again same concept, once you get it popped out a little, it should just slide the rest of the way out.
 

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OK, axles, removed, sub-frame, lowered, now get a jack and prep it under the tranny from the passenger side. Raise it up just enough so that’s its touching the bottom of the tranny. Now remove the rear motor mount, that’s the one that’s on the drivers side wheel well, connected to the tranny. We also found, while lowering the tranny that the mount itself need to be taken off the tranny, so that it clears the frame of the car when slide the tranny out of the clutch.
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Loosen all the bolts that hold the trans to the engine, including the starter, the top 4 bolts are a ***** to get at
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leave the very top 2 bolts in until you are ready to pull on the trans to get it out, you can loosen them just to have them ready to take out.


Heres the balancing act part.

While lowering the cherry picker, you lower the engine, and tranny as well, so you will have to lower the jack you have under the trans also.

When you feel comfortable with the angle of the engine, and you think you can slide the trans out of the clutch, give it a pull, it should slide out fairly easy.

BE CAREFUL not to drop it on your feet, the subframe will also kind be in the way, because you did not completely remove it, unless you want to take the rack and pinion off, which I do not suggest.

So with the trans carefully balanced on the jack lower it enough to get it to come off the top of the subframe onto the floor nice and gentley.
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Clutch
Remove the 6 allen head screws I want to say they are a 6mm allen key. The pressure plate will come off revealing the flywheel and its dreaded T55 torx bolts.


Flywheel

What a pain in the ***.
The torx nuts are f’n torqued in there with at least 100lbs of pressure, or so it seemed. These f’n things would not come loose, I spent about an hour just trying to get 8, T55 torx bolts out. I had a 3/8ths drive hammer ratchet, an 18 inch long, 3/8ths rive breaker bar, and a 5 pound sledge. All of which just wouldn’t work right. These T55 bolt heads are very shallow, so you have to be careful not to strip them, DO NOT STRIP THEM !
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So after an hour or more, the torx bolts come loose, and we were able to pull the flywheel off.

NOW THE EASY PART ! INSTALLATION

Just do everything in reverse

When putting in the flywheel, and tightening the torx bits, use a criss cross pattern and make sure they are not loose, check www.hmaservice.com for torque specs if you do not trust your hand, and “feel” for a tight bolt.

Line up, and center, the clutch disc, and install the pressure plate, again making sure the allen bolts are tight, and torqued.

Use some lithium grease on the input shaft, where the throw-out-bearing slides back and forth metal to metal on the input shaft, and a little on the fork where the fork slides on the T.O.B.

Now clean up the inside of the tranny bell housing, looking for anything wrong, cracks, metal shavings, old clutch bits, anything.

Install the tranny, once its seats, and goes in flush against the motor, thread in the bottom bolts, don’t tighten them, then get at least one of the top bolts in, so it doesn’t fall out, and your stuck trying to re-align the trans again.

It took us about an hour to get the trans in, it just wouldn’t align, but then all of a sudden, it slide in.

Tips on getting things back in:

When raising the tranny back in, we used 2 jacks, side by side, so as to get the right angle lower in the front and higher in the back.

You have to align the half shaft as well as the input shaft.

Work it in, jiggle it, don’t be afraid to man-handle it a little to get it in.

Now your gonna have to work the motor mounts back in to position, and that was the biggest pain, next to the Torx bolts on the flywheel.

Using the jacks and the cherry picker, you’ll get it.

Next is the axles, get them back in, make sure they seat well into the tranny on the driver side, and the half shaft on the passenger side, NOTE: on the half shaft side, there is a grease pack seal make sure its seated properly.

Now get the struts bolted back to the spindles.

Remember the brake line and ABS line on the passeger side.

Now with the back motor mount in, that’s the one on the driver side (the transmission mount) and the axles and spindles back in, get the sup frame back in.

Tip: We used the 2 jacks that we used raising and lowering the tranny to raise the subframe also we used a 5 foot long piece of 2x4 wood to pry between the frame of the car, and the subframe to get it re-align on the back bolts. When raising the subframe make sure the rack and pinion shaft goes into the steering column shaft, don’t worry about lining it up you will be able to do that last, with that bolt in you can turn the shaft kinda of semi stripping the teeth, but don’t worry its not enough to damage to rack and pinion shaft.

Get the bolts to the bottom of the subframe in, and check everything twice !!

lastly put in some new tranmission gear oil

notice the fill and drain bolts, watch out for the washer, dont loose it.
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If theres anything Im forgetting please add it in.

Also, Im sure others have done this totally different, add you hints and tips also !!

I don’t claim that this was the only way or the easiest, but it was my way ! and it worked just fine for me.

Good luck on your DIY clutch !


Thanks to Phil over at Ripp modds for the help over the phone !

And thanks to my brother for putting up with me yelling at him and demanding tools like a surgeon demanding a scalpel.

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This is another DIY for the clutch contributed by "Mista D"

Just thought I'd post here, so more people can find it. I pulled the engine to do my clutch, so thats what the write up is for. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/685016/8
 

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Re: DIY Clutch and flywheel GK 6 speed transmission

Nice...

Did you strip any bolts in the process? I stripped the trans mount bolts and cracked off some of the aluminum from the transmission casing. What a POS. lol

I would suggest everyone replace the driveshafts seals going into the trans case. You don't want to pull those driveshafts back out if it starts leaking. A little prevention goes a long way and spares a lot of grief.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: DIY Clutch and flywheel GK 6 speed transmission

thanks mang. no, didnt strip any bolts, got lucky I suppose, nah what am i saying, you dont need luck when you got skill !! LOL, just playing !!

yea, if you happen to rip a seal, and not notice, you will notice when your trans stop shifting due to lack of trans gear oil. LOL
 

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Re: Clutch diy link inside

Right on Mista D. THANKS MAN! I Just got my stage 3 clutch in. I am on my way to buy a cherry picker. Can one person just work on this or do I need other pair of hands?

Na I did everything by myself. It would help to have someone assist you, but it can be done alone. Get ready to be dirty tired and sore! Good luck. let me know if you need anything. Im going on vacation but ill still have email access. [email protected]
 

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Re: Clutch diy link inside

Right on Mista D. THANKS MAN! I Just got my stage 3 clutch in. I am on my way to buy a cherry picker. Can one person just work on this or do I need other pair of hands?
Your definitely gonna want two sets of hands when your pulling the motor out. One to jack it up, while one other person guides it out and keeps it steady. I'm about to install my CM stage 3 also, Mista D makes it pretty straight forward.
 

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Re: Clutch diy link inside

Your definitely gonna want two sets of hands when your pulling the motor out. One to jack it up, while one other person guides it out and keeps it steady. I'm about to install my CM stage 3 also, Mista D makes it pretty straight forward.
Hey, good luck with that man. I just a cherry picker for this work. So I think I will start this project next weekend.

Question! Would it be easier to just to lower the motor down instead of taking it out of the car? If you take it out of the car you need to unbolt a lot of things such as my s/c and etc. When just lowering the motor under the car you done have to unbolt a lot and keep the s/c in place.

I don't really know that is why I am asking. I read Different threads and they are diff. style. But they are all straight forward.

So what do you think guys? Anyone? Mista D? THANKS!
 

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Re: Clutch diy link inside

I'd say if you can raise the car up high enough to lower the entire subframe, thats what the hyundai shop manual recommends. I don't have a lift, so a cherry picker and stands are my only option.

Goodluck, and maybe take a few pictures and make a little write up to add to this rarely documented process.
 

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Re: Clutch diy link inside

Anyone got a write up for doing the clutch install on a V6 by lowering the tranny instead of pulling the engine? i got access to a lift and want to do it that way cause i heard it was easier but i need to look at a write up tio be 100% confident
 

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Re: Clutch diy link inside

Anyone got a write up for doing the clutch install on a V6 by lowering the tranny instead of pulling the engine? i got access to a lift and want to do it that way cause i heard it was easier but i need to look at a write up tio be 100% confident
Well, thats what I am going to do. I am going to lower the tranny. But I have another quetion. Do you need a lift to do this?

I plan on putting the car just high enough on stands, lower the motor with the cherry picker and work under the car with a cart roller for me to move around under. I am gona try to get the car up over 2 feet atleast. Maybe 2 1/2 or three fit above the ground.

....?????
 

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Re: Clutch diy link inside

Seems like more work to me. If your going to disconnect everything to lower it all done, might as well just pull it all out. I mean, the way I see it, pulling only the engine out the top means that you don't have to disconnect the axles and remove the transmission completely, which is unnecessary work imo. Mista D's method just seems the easiest.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Re: DIY Clutch and flywheel GK 6 speed transmission

This is great. THANKS MANG! I just got my stage 3 clutch. I am on my way to buy a cherry picker.
Question. Do I need an extra pair of hands or can I do this on my own?
yea you can do it yourself, if your a big guy. but moving that tranny around, sometimes wears you out trying to get it back in was a pain !

but ive done an 4cyl. tranny by myself 2wice ! haha and that tranny was not much bigger than the 4cyl auto that i took out !
 

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Re: DIY Clutch and flywheel GK 6 speed transmission

yea you can do it yourself, if your a big guy. but moving that tranny around, sometimes wears you out trying to get it back in was a pain !

but ive done an 4cyl. tranny by myself 2wice ! haha and that tranny was not much bigger than the 4cyl auto that i took out !
Sweet. Thanks! Im a strong guy. 2 times olympian FTFW! lol
 

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DIY Project CLUTCH & Flywheel stage 3

1st off I want to thank loneshark for his DIY clutch. Without his DIY I would not be doing this on my own and saving over $500.

Here is todays project progress so far. Light ran out and we were starving. I will continue and hopefully finish tomorrow. I am having a lot of fun doing this. It's a big project for me and gutsy to do this on my own. I haven't ran into any problems and broke anything so far. HAHA! knock on wood.







I stopped after removing the wheel axles. A lot of things were unbolted like sub frame, slave cylinder, shift fork, axle were removed out of the spindle and aout of the tranny.



Will hopefully finish tomorrow. WISH ME LUCK!
 

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Re: Project CLUTCH & Flywheel stage 3. DIY

so i take it you dropped the tranny then? i think i am gonna tackle this project this winter! let me knwo how it turns out.
 
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