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Re: DIY: 2.7L 6 Speed Clutch and Flywheel

i grabbed a t55 socket from sears the neighbors air compressor and 1/2 gun and went to town on them they came out easy and fast but im having problems puttin the tranny back in for some reason i cant get my release bearing to click into the pressure plate
 

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Re: DIY: 2.7L 6 Speed Clutch and Flywheel

not the worst DIY ever, but hardly complete. the power steering cooling line is held on by 4 ( i think) 10mm bolts, two accessible from in front of the radiator, and two on the engine side of the subframe.

also, no mention is made of the driveshaft carrier bearing, 2X 14mm bolts.
 

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Re: DIY: 2.7L 6 Speed Clutch and Flywheel

Qustion: I installed a Stg3 clutch and a lightweight chromoly flywheel. Had exessive chatter for 800 miles then the clutch fried. Opened up the inspection plate and the rivets that held the pucks came out. So we stuck a camera in there to find that the clutch was completely fried. Guy at a local tranny shop said that I abused the clutch. I've been driving manuals for over 15 years and never fried a clutch. I was waiting till 1000 miles to start to go hard. Did I do something wrong? The guy who installed it swore up and down that he did nothing wrong... Help!!!
 

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Re: DIY: 2.7L 6 Speed Clutch and Flywheel

which side of the clutch disk is the fly wheel side im putting mine now and have no idea plz help
 

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Re: DIY: 2.7L 6 Speed Clutch and Flywheel

just wanna say thanks for this DIY it helped to finish the job, but here's my advice DO NOT DO IT YOURSELF; it's extremely hard job that takes a lot of time. BTW we didn't remove the transmission completely; we just moved it to the side to make enough space.

P.S. SPEC clutch is SUXXX!. We had the fitment issue and ended up shaving it to make it fit; hopefully it won't die anytime soon.
 

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Re: DIY: 2.7L 6 Speed Clutch and Flywheel

Hmm... I've been running strong on my Fidanza and 6puck STG 3 SPEC setup for about 1500 mi so far. Had to shave and everything too.. weird!
 

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Just wanted to thank you for the guide. I wouldn't have been able to replace my clutch without, and I didn't have to money to have a shop do it. So again thank you.
 

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Re: DIY: 2.7L 6 Speed Clutch and Flywheel

Hmm... I've been running strong on my Fidanza and 6puck STG 3 SPEC setup for about 1500 mi so far. Had to shave and everything too.. weird!
20k miles, still good,
 

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I can't lower the subframe. I have removed 2 front bolts and loosened 2 on rear. Sub frame has lowered itself about 15 cm and I can't lower it more. Something is holding it on rear. What it could be? Everything is loose stabilizer bar, subframe, steering column inside a car but if I try to lower it something is knocking at rear. Did I forget about something?
 

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I can't lower the subframe. I have removed 2 front bolts and loosened 2 on rear. Sub frame has lowered itself about 15 cm and I can't lower it more. Something is holding it on rear. What it could be? Everything is loose stabilizer bar, subframe, steering column inside a car but if I try to lower it something is knocking at rear. Did I forget about something?
I see you haven't posted back about your problem so i figure chances are you sorted it out. Just in case the job is still on hold here's my 2 cents: There are three bolts on each side at the rear of the subframe - one 19mm and two 14mm bolts. If you only removed the 19s at the rear, the subframe will hang up on the plate stll being held in place by the 14s.

The picture uploaded upside down of the natural perspective (sorry), but you get the idea. This plate needs to come off for the subframe to come down.
 

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Re: Clutch diy link inside

I am having trouble taking out the flywheel, that sucker is on there tight and the flywheel turns. If I can have the flywheel lock and not get it to turn, it be easier. So that's where I stand right now.

How do I lock the flywheel and not make it turn while I am trying to loosen the hex t55 screws?

Please help. THANKS!
pry bar on flywheel teeth
 

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oops. didnt read how old this thread was.
Bumping/replying to threads over ~1 month old is frowned upon on this forum except:

Stickies
DIY's
For sale/WTB

Thus no issue with you bumping this with new info or questions.
 

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ok i have a 2003 Tibby GT 2.7L 5 speed and i am having issues with the re-installation steps. i got my Transmission on most of the way but i have like 2 inchs of gap and NOTHING i do can get the son of a gun to slide the rest of the way on. its lined up correctly and all. im at a total loss and this 2day job has become as of tonight a 2 week job, im pissed tired and at a loss here.
 

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ok i have a 2003 Tibby GT 2.7L 5 speed and i am having issues with the re-installation steps. i got my Transmission on most of the way but i have like 2 inchs of gap and NOTHING i do can get the son of a gun to slide the rest of the way on. its lined up correctly and all. im at a total loss and this 2day job has become as of tonight a 2 week job, im pissed tired and at a loss here.
There are many things to get snagged on.And 2" makes me think something is in the way and the input shaft is not getting into the clutch disk.

Try this:
1. Make sure the TOB and fork are pushed all the way to the back of the bell
2. Using the clutch disk alignment tool, make sure the disk is perfectly centered between the flywheel and clutch cover
3. Also try and align the splines with the input shaft using the disk alignment tool
4. Make sure the alignment pins and holes that are on the bell housing/crankcase mating surface are clean (You can put a little lube too if it makes you feel better.)
5. When starting to insert the input shaft, keep paying attention to how the splines are aligned. If you did not get it first try, I rotate the transmission a bit in either direction, attempting to align the splines
6. You will align the bell housing/crankcase pins after the input shaft has been inserted correctly.

Feel free to PM if you need some other guidance.

Good luck, you'll get it!
 
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