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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m a idiot and probably karma getting me back but bought 03 GT v6 6speed last week for $3k cash. 160k roughly. Seller said motor swapped with same year with 55k within last 25-30k. New clutch at swap with lightweight flywheel. Test drive car for 30+ mins in Seattle. Car ran great. Shifted great. Was stoked to get the car. Left Seattle for 4.5hr drive home. About 3hrs into drive home cruise set 72mph in 6th I hear a pop (like when pops out of gear) car revs out. Car still in 6th gear. Drop to 5th making a grinding/growling ****** noise. I should of stopped but I kept driving. 5th does the same noise/loss of 5th. Drop to 4th and continue onward towards home. 4th gear does the same. Pull over into a town. Me thinking clutch I bleed it off hoping to drive home without clutch. Still growling still no 4/5/6. So I tow it home. Go to diagnose and drain fluid. Not a drop comes out. F*ck I’m thinking trans is toasted. Get penzoil synchromesh And run a quart thru it, spinning tires in neutral to clean out. Lots of metal came out. Nothing excessively large tho. Fill oil to full, bleed clutch, car off it’s hard to find 1&2. 3 grinds like synchros are out but never engages. 1&2 will go in doing a half clutch to fill clutch press. 4/5/6 drops smoothly into gear motor on or off but clutch fully out nothing happens. Reverse is fine no issues going in or out or reversing. Clutch out gear a noise. Clutch in noise goes away. Is my trans toasted? Slave/master? Linkage? Cable stretch/bad end bushings? Just looking to try the easy cheap options before trans swap and clutch install. I’ll try to upload but idk if I’ll figure it out
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I might add I trusted sellers word that he checked the trans fluid level. Everything else was on point and no top off needed. No obvious leaks when I first got car. Still no obvious leaks
 

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If it was truly that dry, I doubt the car would've been able to make it through the 30 minute road test without making obscene noises. A guy I worked with once rebuilt a rear end on a Silverado 1500, forgot to put fluid in and drove about 3 miles before it started howling. I took some fluid out to him and we filled it up on the side of the road, but the brand new bearings were already ruined. So forgive me, but I have to ask: Are you certain you're pulling the drain plug on the transmission?

The rest of what you describe definitely sounds like the transmission is toast. With the engine off, you should be able to shift into all 6 gears and reverse with relative ease. The popping out of gear and grinding when trying to shift points to failed/failing synchros. The grinding and howling would be from dry gears and bearings getting hot and losing clearance. The fact that you can shift into 4/5/6 but there's no power transmission with the clutch engaged indicates the shift linkage being intact, but the teeth on the synchro hub, blocker ring, or dog teeth are completely gone. I would guess you can even shift into those three gears with the engine running, without pressing the clutch pedal.

If you're doing the diagnosis yourself, I might suggest taking it to a shop so that there's a professional on record giving testimony to what happened and what the damage is. However, if you already handed over the cash and signed the title, the previous owner likely won't be inclined to help you out in any way. If you do end up looking for a used transmission, let me know. I wasn't planning on splitting up my engine and transmission, but that was mostly because I didn't expect to be able to sell the transmission on its own.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If it was truly that dry, I doubt the car would've been able to make it through the 30 minute road test without making obscene noises. A guy I worked with once rebuilt a rear end on a Silverado 1500, forgot to put fluid in and drove about 3 miles before it started howling. I took some fluid out to him and we filled it up on the side of the road, but the brand new bearings were already ruined. So forgive me, but I have to ask: Are you certain you're pulling the drain plug on the transmission?

The rest of what you describe definitely sounds like the transmission is toast. With the engine off, you should be able to shift into all 6 gears and reverse with relative ease. The popping out of gear and grinding when trying to shift points to failed/failing synchros. The grinding and howling would be from dry gears and bearings getting hot and losing clearance. The fact that you can shift into 4/5/6 but there's no power transmission with the clutch engaged indicates the shift linkage being intact, but the teeth on the synchro hub, blocker ring, or dog teeth are completely gone. I would guess you can even shift into those three gears with the engine running, without pressing the clutch pedal.

If you're doing the diagnosis yourself, I might suggest taking it to a shop so that there's a professional on record giving testimony to what happened and what the damage is. However, if you already handed over the cash and signed the title, the previous owner likely won't be inclined to help you out in any way. If you do end up looking for a used transmission, let me know. I wasn't planning on splitting up my engine and transmission, but that was mostly because I didn't expect to be able to sell the transmission on its own.
Your right about being able to shift into 4/5/6 engine running. Drops right in no noise no nothing. Sometimes using clutch I’ve got a clank out of 4th being erratic aboutdropping clutch slamming into gear. And yes I’m pulling the right plug. I flushed out as much metal as I could. And I drove the test drive then 3 hours before noises and issues. Went maybe 30 miles once noises started and started losing gears. 509/405/4347 I can send u a vid. And I found 2 transmisson at local u pull. $180 needs pulled or $275 on shelf. I ask if I should drop $50 on slave, cables (used off the trans that needs pulled) and fluid and seeing if it does anything. I mean I have to replace those at some point but also buyin a beater today to daily till I can rip into the tib so it’s getting put on back burner for a month or two
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
If it was truly that dry, I doubt the car would've been able to make it through the 30 minute road test without making obscene noises. A guy I worked with once rebuilt a rear end on a Silverado 1500, forgot to put fluid in and drove about 3 miles before it started howling. I took some fluid out to him and we filled it up on the side of the road, but the brand new bearings were already ruined. So forgive me, but I have to ask: Are you certain you're pulling the drain plug on the transmission?

The rest of what you describe definitely sounds like the transmission is toast. With the engine off, you should be able to shift into all 6 gears and reverse with relative ease. The popping out of gear and grinding when trying to shift points to failed/failing synchros. The grinding and howling would be from dry gears and bearings getting hot and losing clearance. The fact that you can shift into 4/5/6 but there's no power transmission with the clutch engaged indicates the shift linkage being intact, but the teeth on the synchro hub, blocker ring, or dog teeth are completely gone. I would guess you can even shift into those three gears with the engine running, without pressing the clutch pedal.

If you're doing the diagnosis yourself, I might suggest taking it to a shop so that there's a professional on record giving testimony to what happened and what the damage is. However, if you already handed over the cash and signed the title, the previous owner likely won't be inclined to help you out in any way. If you do end up looking for a used transmission, let me know. I wasn't planning on splitting up my engine and transmission, but that was mostly because I didn't expect to be able to sell the transmission on its own.
And since I have flushed and driven the 3-5 miles since I filled trans. No leaks indicating anything crack/hole, bad seals.I think I just roundedoff teeth. Neighbor things it’s a clutch issue not trans. I can do clutch/trans swap/slave/master and fluids for $500 mark down the road
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If it was truly that dry, I doubt the car would've been able to make it through the 30 minute road test without making obscene noises. A guy I worked with once rebuilt a rear end on a Silverado 1500, forgot to put fluid in and drove about 3 miles before it started howling. I took some fluid out to him and we filled it up on the side of the road, but the brand new bearings were already ruined. So forgive me, but I have to ask: Are you certain you're pulling the drain plug on the transmission?

The rest of what you describe definitely sounds like the transmission is toast. With the engine off, you should be able to shift into all 6 gears and reverse with relative ease. The popping out of gear and grinding when trying to shift points to failed/failing synchros. The grinding and howling would be from dry gears and bearings getting hot and losing clearance. The fact that you can shift into 4/5/6 but there's no power transmission with the clutch engaged indicates the shift linkage being intact, but the teeth on the synchro hub, blocker ring, or dog teeth are completely gone. I would guess you can even shift into those three gears with the engine running, without pressing the clutch pedal.

If you're doing the diagnosis yourself, I might suggest taking it to a shop so that there's a professional on record giving testimony to what happened and what the damage is. However, if you already handed over the cash and signed the title, the previous owner likely won't be inclined to help you out in any way. If you do end up looking for a used transmission, let me know. I wasn't planning on splitting up my engine and transmission, but that was mostly because I didn't expect to be able to sell the transmission on its own.
hey man junkyard crushed my transmission I was going to buy. How much u want? Shipping will have to be looked up to 99320. Can message me let’s deal
 

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Update!! My transmission is extra toasted
Holy #%&!

Haven‘t seen a MT that destroyed!
But, eh. If an AT was that crunched it’d be a lot more $$$

I’m no expert, but you will likely have an easier time sourcing a serviceable MT than an AT.

I bought my 2nd Tib, an ‘05 SE with only 100K on it 2 years ago for $3,000, and the first thing I did not knowing it’s history, was timing belt, and replace all fluids with the best there is. Nothing was dry, but at least I knew all was full & fresh. And a snapped timing belt = full rebuild! Well worth the peace of mind.

Hope ya find a decent MT & can swap it out. And with everything already open, a new clutch, slave cylinder, and even flywheel if necessary just makes good sense if you can afford to do it. If I need any “heavy maint“ like that, I replace everything accessible that wears out as it’s just parts, same labor just to pull the MT. And maybe it’s just me. But if I was keeping the car, I’d get a used MT and have it rebuilt by a trusted shop before putting it in. It ain’t cheap, but it’s already out. So once it’s in, I’d know that it’s all new, shifts like new, and if taken care of will likely last the lifetime of the car. Good luck with the restoration! Sucks now, but it’s a great feeling when it’s all done.
 
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