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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Summer is here and its time to to a full tear down on the tib once again. Doing a turbo upgrade and a standard 100k mile maintenance rebuild. The car has been a daily driver for me for the past couple of years with many clutch problems along the way. Some of you may have seen my other threads about it.... But Upgrading from a PTE6031E (.42 a/r) to a 5858 dual ball bearing (.63 a/r). :)

Reason for the rebuild, again with more clutch problems. I have converted the car to a push style PP and TOB. Well the ACT mb012x pp is a little heavy for the standard TOB, and with 60k miles later the TOB has blown up to chit of pieces... No residue of the bearing was found when separating the tranny. (just little ball bearings everywhere and a bad smell)

New Fidanza fly surface on the way, and maybe a new PP ( got to measure the wear on it)

Another reason for the rebuild.. Compression test yielded 90/145/30/145 psi 1/2/3/4 respectively. Crossing my fingers it wasn't rings or broken pistons... (8.5:1 low comp pistons)

More updates coming soon. Pics of the progress so far.

Empty engine bay with the motor on the stand. And the head got pulled off and sent to the machine shop for valve seating and new seals + shimming. Reason for low compression on cyl 4 and 2.





 

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Get it done buddy! I will be following this thread hope it doesnt get plagued with snags along your way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just to be sure the fidanza fly insert part number is 228501 for a 35mm crank 2.0L!!??

I believe the 2.7L part no is 229001

More updates coming tomorrow when i get my head back, rod bearings, and main bearings. Then painting time! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So after a loooooonnng time now,

I finally got the head back from the machine shop and did a little work on the motor today. Pistons and Crank back in, and also torqued the head down on its new head gasket.









Gonna pick up a new rear strut bar tomorrow from an nt member! And do some painting and more cleaning of parts... Prob mount the valve cover and give the IM a fresh color.

Other things on the list still
- Install new flywheel insert
- Mount the pte5858 dual BB on the manifold in correct orientation
- Reroute vacuum lines and clean up some wiring
- Relocate the Idle control valve
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
small update.. not so good news..

got the mb012x PP in and flywheel insert bolted up. Everything torqued down and ready for mating of the tranny.. to find the next problem... Another damn clutch fork... This has to be like the 4th fork that i have broken... This time in a different spot... Pics below show the damage.





Im not sure if this break is cause the pp is too heavy for the fork. But this could have also broken when the bearing had blown up. Contacting atelier HP to see what they can do for me.






MMM chiney and clean. Still have to paint more bolt heads but waiting till the tranny in connected too.
 

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My fork didn't bend, the top of it snapped off.

I was thinking about my options and in the end I had it welded but I think it's ENTIRELY possible to get a hydraulic one from another Hyundai working.
 

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wouldn't have that problem with an automatic

:u_jelly:
 

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Are you both using the mb-012x pressure plate?

i have one guy running with that same pressure plate and 4 pucks disc and so far after 4+ years no issues
on my own cars with the 225mm disc and pressure plate, same thing no problem
and didn't heard of other peoples with problems

the bent fork looks more like it went out when the bearign failed,
the snapped shatf, this one again still got me confused
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have tried the mb012 and the mb012x. The heavy duty one couldn't hold the power and slipped really bad as soon as boost came in. I switched back to the extreme pp and welded the push rod onto the fork. Didn't have any problems till the bearing blew up. I am running an 02 elantra tranny for the longer gear setup.

I also think that when the bearing blew up it took the fork with it.. Or the fork smacked the PP while rotating after the bearing exploded.

Denis do you happen to have any full kits in stock? I would like to overnight it if you could, so i can get the motor back in the car before the weekend. The half shafts will be ready for pick up tomorrow morning, and when the new fork arrives i will still need to weld the push rod thingy onto the top of it.
 

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I'm glad I got the Valeo XTRM kit while it was still available, holds plenty of power with a pull style setup but now I need to resurface the PP and FW to install a new disc in the off season.
 

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yes this is a push conversion with a act mb012x pp.. There is a hydraulic bearing avail that will work?!?!!!

More info please!!!!

i also welded the top because of the top snapping off the past 3 forks.
I don't know because I didn't test it. But looking at other Hyundai hydraulic bearings like that from the optima, santa fe, or Genesis, you could make it work, It might require a small bracket to mount it since I think the mounting points put the hydraulic connections on the opposite side of where you need to run the lines, but it could work.

Here's mine:




Since being welded and better adjusting my pedal, it's held up much better than before.
 
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