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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hoping someone might have some insight for me on this one! Some makes sense, some has me stumped!

Scenario:

Two v6 Tibs, 05 SE and an 06 GT.
Resided in Seattle all their lives, both relocated to Tucson, AZ recently.

Great in WA, but following driving them to AZ. Now BOTH have a low pitch whine like they have a supercharger on them which IS the AC compressors. The whine goes up in pitch when RPMs increase. No noise at all with AC disengaged.

Known…

In prep for the desert heat. In the last two years the following was done by my mechanic in Seattle that knows what he’s doing.

Replaced with new on both…

Upgraded Mishimoto radiator. GT is AT, so ext AT cooler added as there’s no integrated AT cooler in the GT.
New hoses, thermostat, both radiator & AC fans replaced
Timing belt, idler pulleys, hyd tensioner, water pump.
Alternator, drive belt, idler pulley, and tensioner.
AC compressor, all AC hoses, new AC condenser

The AC compressor had failed on both just due to age in WA. And they were at interval to replace the water pumps. So because just removing the compressor and water pump requires a fairly big tear down. Parts are cheaper than labor. So on reassembly, I had them replace all the other components on reassembly (they were all 14 years old anyway).

This left me with almost everything replaced in the drive line other than the PS pump, which was good.

Both of them were solid following the work. Almost silent, no drive or timing belt noise. Coolant temps were measured by on board live ODB readings and they held right at 190F in any driving conditions. AC perfect. No problems for the past year or so.

Then both driven to AZ. The temps here are 95-100F, but with the cooling upgrades, they should handle it no problem!

They don’t. Temps now go to 220-230 in 15 min with the AC on and both fans blowing like a hurricane (even when it’s only 85F outside). My GT will even cut the AC by itself when it gets into the 230F range. Both have 70/30 mix with water wetter. Temps read by the ODB show the engine cools down once not driving and just idling again. No trouble codes thrown for overheat or anything.

I suspected the water pumps as the whine. But if I turn on the “alternate radiator”…the heater. Blows hot and temp drops quickly. So coolant flow is good. Drive belts good.

Huh? Made no sense! So finally had time for a closer inspection and discovered the low pitch whine on both are the AC compressors! Belts run silent and smooth with AC off. No coolant leaks at all, water pumps spin freely, as does the alt & pulleys.

The compressors on both are under 3 yrs old. Both new Denso OEM compressors.

On closer inspection, I found they both have metal shavings behind their clutch. But AC function on both remains nominal. Refrigerant level is nominal on both. But of course, the whine is not a good sign.

The big question is given the metal shavings seen. If I replace the bearing in the AC clutches, is that likely the cause of the whine? Or could it still be the compressor bearings? If it’s the compressor, big job, but why waste the labor to just replace the clutch bearing which is a lot of labor as well. But my thought is the shavings are from the clutch bearing and not the compressor itself…. And new clutch bearings are easy to get and cheap. AC is mandatory here in AZ! lol

The second, and just as serious. Cooling! There’s no logical reason for them to heat up like that with the Mishimoto radiators, new water pumps and thermostats, and perfect coolant mix. Even when it hit 100F in Seattle, they had strong cooling and might hit 210-215F, but not for long.

Could there be a correlation between the AC clutches whining (dragging but functional), and the inability to keep them at a temp that’s at least “in range”? They only heat up when driving, they heat up higher with faster driving speeds. But if stopped, they start to cool down again when idling.

Was thinking of replacing both compressors and water pumps. But I’ve yet to come to a diagnostic conclusion to support doing so based on the symptoms. The only behavioral change since all that work was completed is inability to maintain normal coolant temps, and the compressor whine began around the same time. No leaks of any kind, AC still works fine, just whines when engaged.

Anyone have any insight on whether the compressor whine and noted metal shavings behind the AC clutch are just the clutch bearing? Or what could be the cause for the inability to keep things cool when just 2000 mi ago with all new components they would pretty much hold solid at 190F even with the AC on all the time before bringing them to AZ?

All ideas/suggestions/guesses or anything I’ve missed that I should check are welcomed!

Thanks everyone! I always bring the tricky stuff here for the sharp minds and great advice!
 

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Out of experience alone..... first thing I would do is double check which ways the fans are blowing. You would think this is a silly thing to suggest, however, ive installed brand new fans out of the box that were wired backwards and caused the fans to pull from the engine bay and blow out the front of the car.

Not only would you be pulling heat from the engine bay, but the exhaust is right in front of the fan.... so you are essentially blowing hot exhaust air into the radiator and condenser heating both up significantly. Took me days to figure that one out.

Your water pump isnt the problem here. Lets start with the simple stuff first.

The A/C system generates a ton of heat as well. If the system isnt shutting off the compressor at high temps, then you might have a pressure switch problem. But if both cars are doing it.... id tend to focus on the things that have been changed on both.

If you command the a/c off and the noise goes away, then its definitely in the compressor. If you see metal shavings in the clutch area, I wouldnt bother rebuilding it. Just replace the compressor. Either way, it gonna end up coming out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Out of experience alone..... first thing I would do is double check which ways the fans are blowing. You would think this is a silly thing to suggest, however, ive installed brand new fans out of the box that were wired backwards and caused the fans to pull from the engine bay and blow out the front of the car.

Not only would you be pulling heat from the engine bay, but the exhaust is right in front of the fan.... so you are essentially blowing hot exhaust air into the radiator and condenser heating both up significantly. Took me days to figure that one out.

Your water pump isnt the problem here. Lets start with the simple stuff first.

The A/C system generates a ton of heat as well. If the system isnt shutting off the compressor at high temps, then you might have a pressure switch problem. But if both cars are doing it.... id tend to focus on the things that have been changed on both.

If you command the a/c off and the noise goes away, then its definitely in the compressor. If you see metal shavings in the clutch area, I wouldnt bother rebuilding it. Just replace the compressor. Either way, it gonna end up coming out.
Good info, checked it though. Fans are blowing a ton of air in from the front to rear as they should be. Only added heat is the AT cooler as the Mishimoto doesn’t have one integrated. Might relocate it where it can get airflow without being on the front of the radiator. The SE with the 6spd manual isn’t perfect. But it does stay cooler than the GT.

Wondering if the added airflow reduction & added heat of the AT cooler being on the front of the radiator could be it! Pretty sure I can relocate it to get airflow at the bottom of the radiator where it isn’t actually on the front of the radiator itself. That’s easy to do and see how it affects the temp.
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Bought my GT new. Never an issue with cooling & the engine bay is still like new!

Have a compressor on the way. Actually not bad at $210 for a new Denso. Identical to the one it was built with. Wish I knew what shredded them! Only thing that comes to mind is the drive belt was too tight! That’s replaceable though and it’s fixed.

Why neither has good cooling even with the Mishimoto radiators is being elusive as to why!
If I just could firmly diagnose it that would be great! I don’t want to just replace everything and cross my fingers! But it might be the only way. lol

Thanks!
 

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No I wouldnt go replacing everything. Start with what you know is broken. I as well have a mishimoto radiator, and have installed a handful on multiple tibs and have not had these issues.

Ive also had mine on track and other places like the tail of the dragon where the vehicle has sustained prolonged high rpm driving and our temps are perfect.

I dont think the trans cooler is the issue being on the front of the radiator. As long as its got airflow, it should be ok.

The factory temp on the thermostat is 180. We are running 170 degrees on ours. I dont think that is going to matter for your situation though.

What happens when you dont run the a/c?
 

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Metal shavings and whining is not good. Are you certain they used A/C oil properly? I know a guy that struggled for months trying to figure out his A/C and it was because he either over oiled or under oiled his A/C system. The drive belt cannot be overtightened. There is a spring loaded auto tensioner. So unless you installed too short of a belt, there's no way it could be overtight.

If you are running a bit lean it will get up to those temps pretty quick. This happened to me and my temps were up in the 210-230F range. What are your LTFTs showing over OBD2? If they are pushing +20% then your ECU is trying to compensate +20% based on the O2 feedback but isn't high enough to trigger a CEL yet. This could indicate a fueling problem or a faulty MAF sensor reporting less air than is actually entering the engine. Easy fix, replace your MAF sensor with an OEM or OE acceptable brand like Hyundai, Siemens or Delphi brands. All other brands are junk and cause more problems and you'll end up buying the sensor twice.

I agree with Faulcun, try a 170F thermostat. They even make a 150F thermostat which would be an extreme step but also an option for you. You could go one step further and lower your radiator fan trigger temp to 175F and raise the fan duty cycle to improve cooling like what NGM/Fiebruz did with their reflashes. I run a 170F thermostat up here in Seattle and reflashed my ECU with the NGM/Fiebruz fan mods to improve cooling in the summer months. With a Mishimoto clone radiator and OEM fans I was able to keep my temps less than 200F with A/C on that hot 110F day we had in August 2021 while driving out to Cle Elum and Keechelus Lake. I was pleasantly surprised at how well it kept cool with a fully loaded car and 3 people dragging my bumper all the way out there. Shoot me a message if you want more details on a reflash.

Also you may want to pressure test your radiator cap. I used some aftermarket cap that was NOT opening at the pressure it should have and it over pressurized my system. I did overheat a couple of times as a result. If your radiator hoses feel very stiff like they're pressurized, look into an OEM replacement radiator cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No I wouldnt go replacing everything. Start with what you know is broken. I as well have a mishimoto radiator, and have installed a handful on multiple tibs and have not had these issues.

Ive also had mine on track and other places like the tail of the dragon where the vehicle has sustained prolonged high rpm driving and our temps are perfect.

I dont think the trans cooler is the issue being on the front of the radiator. As long as its got airflow, it should be ok.

The factory temp on the thermostat is 180. We are running 170 degrees on ours. I dont think that is going to matter for your situation though.

What happens when you dont run the a/c?
When driving here, had 6 hours in the desert to reach Phoenix. It was 103, so checked my ODB temp and it was 230! Normally turning off the AC should help. But when I did, the temp increased!

But my AT cooler is in front of the AC fan... No idea why it increased. But I was also rolling with about 600lbs of payload (moving things that couldn’t go in a moving pod).

I ended up finding that just to keep it at around 224, I had to run with AC on, but the climate control at 90 degrees with windows down so the heater core would help cool it. And also had to slow to 60Mph. Sucked! Temp would climb if I went any faster, and on even slight inclines the temp would start to increase as well.

But rad fan is good and engages at 210. Now that there’s no big payload in there, I’ll have to see if it still heats up the same without the AC. But ya don’t run with the AC off much around here! 😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Metal shavings and whining is not good. Are you certain they used A/C oil properly? I know a guy that struggled for months trying to figure out his A/C and it was because he either over oiled or under oiled his A/C system. The drive belt cannot be overtightened. There is a spring loaded auto tensioner. So unless you installed too short of a belt, there's no way it could be overtight.

If you are running a bit lean it will get up to those temps pretty quick. This happened to me and my temps were up in the 210-230F range. What are your LTFTs showing over OBD2? If they are pushing +20% then your ECU is trying to compensate +20% based on the O2 feedback but isn't high enough to trigger a CEL yet. This could indicate a fueling problem or a faulty MAF sensor reporting less air than is actually entering the engine. Easy fix, replace your MAF sensor with an OEM or OE acceptable brand like Hyundai, Siemens or Delphi brands. All other brands are junk and cause more problems and you'll end up buying the sensor twice.

I agree with Faulcun, try a 170F thermostat. They even make a 150F thermostat which would be an extreme step but also an option for you. You could go one step further and lower your radiator fan trigger temp to 175F and raise the fan duty cycle to improve cooling like what NGM/Fiebruz did with their reflashes. I run a 170F thermostat up here in Seattle and reflashed my ECU with the NGM/Fiebruz fan mods to improve cooling in the summer months. With a Mishimoto clone radiator and OEM fans I was able to keep my temps less than 200F with A/C on that hot 110F day we had in August 2021 while driving out to Cle Elum and Keechelus Lake. I was pleasantly surprised at how well it kept cool with a fully loaded car and 3 people dragging my bumper all the way out there. Shoot me a message if you want more details on a reflash.

Also you may want to pressure test your radiator cap. I used some aftermarket cap that was NOT opening at the pressure it should have and it over pressurized my system. I did overheat a couple of times as a result. If your radiator hoses feel very stiff like they're pressurized, look into an OEM replacement radiator cap.
I’ll definitely check the ODB data! It logs it all. If it’s just the MAF sensor that would be great.
Radiator cap is the stock Mishimoto one, so it should be good. But will check my hoses too.
The PAG oil is pre-charged, so you just release it before installing the compressor.

It had the factory radiator in during the heatwave in Seattle last year as well as the current compressor. No problems then with temp at all. But a 1500 mi non stop drive can shake things loose or components can fail without being noticed.

The metal shavings look to have came from only the clutch. But might take a closer look.

Thanks for the suggestions! All easy enough to check! 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Surprisingly, yes.

The compressors on both are less than 3 yrs old. Both compressors now whine when engaged. Both are running hot and neither one did before.

Both run hot. But the SE with the 6spd MT doesn’t go up as fast as the GT, but if not driven somewhat “lightly”. The temp goes up to 225 and can go higher. The GT will go to 230 real quick, even at night when it’s maybe 85 degrees outside. But if it hits that, I drop the temp by turning on the heater. And on both the ECU has disengaged the compressor by itself from high temps. But I’ve not just let either one go past about 235 without doing something to lower the temp.

Just checked the GT, and the LTFTs are 0% on bank 1, 3, and 4. Bank 2 is 2.8%. So it would seem the MAF is ok.



Something I did note is the Intake temp can go to 180F if idled for long. But each only heats up when driving. If they get too hot, if I let them idle the coolant temp will drop back to 205-210.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, a little data collecting and I was pretty surprised!

95F outside. Began with a cold start, no AC.

It barely went over 195, so the radiator fan didn’t even trigger for some time.

If I had the AC on from the start, it would be over 210 in 5 minutes! So started capturing data with it at 195 with no AC.

Then I shut down, started again, also with no AC 15 mins later, even cooler and holds temp! But, this time I engaged the AC halfway through. I felt the car lose a LOT of power the moment it engaged, volts went from 13.7 to the 12’s. And within minutes it went from 195 to 220 and would have kept going. But I killed the AC and temp began to drop back down again. Parked 5 mins later and idled for a few minutes and even the radiator fan shut down as the temp dropped.

No sensor issues. But even though that POS compressor functions. It’s pulling so many amps, and puts so much drag on the engine that it’s the cause for overheating! Crazy that it would put that much load on the engine without it seizing or the belt slipping to drive the temp 30 degrees and climbing in just 5 minutes!

But at least now I know I can just have the new compressor put in and the AC recharged, no more whining sound, and it shouldn’t put such a load on the car anymore to drive the coolant temp through the roof!

Top graph is no AC starting at 195. Smooth voltage, temp hit 210, radiator fan kicks in and temp drops immediately and it stays in range just fine.

Bottom graph, you can see the voltage drop when I turned on the compressor. Temp goes up almost immediately, and didn’t drop until I turned off the compressor.

Rectangle Azure Font Water Parallel



Rectangle Slope Parallel Font Pattern

Thanks guys! Another Tib lesson. A failing compressor alone can push it to overheat!
 

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Id say you are right on track about the compressor. So heres the thing, you have two brand new compressors, and they have both failed. The load you are experiencing comes internally as the compressor is difficult to turn which tells me a lack of lubrication. Its like bearings in a motor when they are starved for oil. They get so hot that they begin to seize up. OR there was previously metal debris in the system from the previous unit.

Make sure you FLUSH your a/c system... thoroughly! There are special chemicals for this. Id also change the dryer and expansion valve again, and possibly go a step further and do the condenser too. More than likely there is metal debris throughout the system. If you dont do this, you'll just end up with another failure.

Also double check the oil in the new unit. I know what it says.... but double check anyways. When two failed in the same way... one of two things has happened. Poor manufacturing quality control, or installation error.

For example, when you buy a starter or alternator... they all come with those fancy little papers that say "100% tested and passed! This unit put out this voltage on blah blah day and exceeded our expectations" or something like that. Trust me when i say its all ********. I have had, and will continue to get bad units right out of the box. This is also not a common occurrence for a manufacturer like denso in the first place either. That is one of our shops more trusted brands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ya! Ticks me off. I had my usual guy who has handled anything I’ve needed for the last 10 years do it. I do most of my own work, but AC, timing belt, anything close tolerance or special equipment needed I let him do it!

When the compressor was replaced, the hoses and condenser were replaced as well.

But now that I’ve moved I have a new shop that has good references.

Will be sure to have them flush it out well & replace the condenser again as they’re cheap compared to the compressor.

Could have been worse though so can’t complain.
Thanks!
 

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Might seem like a silly question at this stage since it's already assumed that your AC pumps are creating a higher load on your engine... But which fans are you running for your radiator currently? If you "upgraded" to the Mishimoto slim fans odds are you didn't fabricate a fan shroud to mount them to. The Mishimoto fans only cover about 60% of the radiator without a shroud. I found that the OEM fans with their built in shrouds cool more efficiently than the slim fans without a shroud. That could be a contributing factor.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No, the stock fans held up well & had plenty of power since I bought my GT brand new.

I replaced both with new OEM ones when I put in the Mishimoto even though they still ran ok.
Just makes sense, like the throwout bearing with a new clutch, or hoses & condenser with a new compressor. :)

A mild 94F today. Drove it again with no AC & the drive belt/timing belts are whisper quiet and it never even hit 210 to spin up the radiator fan. No idea how that compressor isn’t seized up yet!
 

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No, the stock fans held up well & had plenty of power since I bought my GT brand new.

I replaced both with new OEM ones when I put in the Mishimoto even though they still ran ok.
Just makes sense, like the throwout bearing with a new clutch, or hoses & condenser with a new compressor. :)

A mild 94F today. Drove it again with no AC & the drive belt/timing belts are whisper quiet and it never even hit 210 to spin up the radiator fan. No idea how that compressor isn’t seized up yet!
In general, once moving about 30mph, ram air from the grill does all cooling, no need for a fan.
 

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Metal shavings you say
Did you replace the expansion valve on the firewall? Anytime I change compressors I change that as well also check the triple switch sensor. It’s the on in front of the car closest to the front valve cover
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i have not! I’ve not even seen those to be involved in a compressor R&R!
Does that have potential to cause compressor failure with metal shavings around the AC clutch?

But…. Did find a great shop here with like 300 five star google reviews going back 4-5 years. And only a few 4 star ones. None under 4. So they had solid references

Had to wait ten days to get my car in. But replacing the compressor ain’t easy. It’s in a really tight spot. And not like I can flush, vac & recharge it myself.

What I brought….

New Denso compressor, new drive belt
new High/Low press hoses
new condenser
PAG oil & seals just in case.
AT gasket & 5 qts of SPIII. (was changed just 7000 mi ago, but drove it from Seattle to Tucson with 8-900lbs of cargo in it pretty hard)
Got all parts from Rock & Amazon for around $360

Left it there all day, all AC components replaced, whole system flushed & recharged.
AT serviced, new gasket & refilled. Got her back and checked out the work, flawless!

Runs silent, no belt noise at all. Ice cold, holds temp again perfectly even when it’s 105F

What did he charge me for all that labor? A flat $350!
I have a new shop I can trust with what’s too much for me to do myself!

Can’t beat that price! That would have been $900 in Seattle! Going to have the same done on my SE. It needs its PS pump, hoses, and rack & pinon replaced as well. Huge job! The PS high pressure hose blew out and it was just patched up for now as the rack is so rusted they were afraid the connector on the rack would snap off if they replaced the hose. So I know I’ll get a good deal having it done there! Glad I needed the AC & found this shop!
 

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i have not! I’ve not even seen those to be involved in a compressor R&R!
Does that have potential to cause compressor failure with metal shavings around the AC clutch?
Make sure you FLUSH your a/c system... thoroughly! There are special chemicals for this. Id also change the dryer and expansion valve again, and possibly go a step further and do the condenser too. More than likely there is metal debris throughout the system. If you dont do this, you'll just end up with another failure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Oh ya, all of that was done by the shop. New condenser, hoses, everything. Then flushed, pulled vac, recharged, leak tested. System is clean & charged, runs great now. Should last a long time. The original system lasted 12 years, so hopefully another 12!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Follow up from my original post. I thought it was finally fixed! But I’ve stumped myself, and two very reputable shops! I am seriously at my wits end with this cooling issue on my 06 GT

I’ve owned it since it had 7 miles on it. With meticulous maint, always early. And I have an Android head unit with an always on Bluetooth LE ODB dongle so I can see and log all sensor data live on my head unit app for complete sensor visibility via ODB.

Timing belt/water pump replaced 15K ago. She lived in Seattle all her life. Not a single issue until moving to AZ 3 mo. ago.

To prepare for the desert, I put in a Mishimoto rad, new thermostat, 70/30 mix of Asian vehicle green coolant, and normal trans/oil change, which I always do at 25K anyway.

After relocating. The only symptom is in just 95 degree weather, or even 80 degrees at night! Running without the AC on, she holds coolant temp, even if I really get on the throttle. But with the AC on, I can’t even get on the throttle. Ever with careful driving and babying it, no hard acceleration. Within 10 mins, the coolant temp hits 237 and I must shut down the AC, then coolant temp immediately drops back to 220 or less. Before relocating, with the stock radiator, she never, ever exceeded 210, even in 95 degree weather in Seattle, the AC was always on, and I’d push her hard on acceleration.

Note: Coolant temp only goes hot after accelerating from a stop, even slowly, or holding speed on cruise with any incline in the road. Totally flat terrain, and it usually holds at 230F with AC on.

If I stop and just remain idling, the temp slowly drops but not below 230F unless AC is off, then it drops quickly to about 220F without AC on.

What I’ve tested & had replaced…

Entire AC system. New Denso compressor, condenser, new discharge/suction lines, expansion valve. AC is good, cold, no leaks. Same behavior.

Switched to cooling system. Replaced parts that were just replaced 10K ago. 180 degree thermostat (actual Hyundai part…), upper/lower hoses, new radiator cap, new coolant temp sensor, new water pump, timing belt/tensioner & idler pulleys. New drive belt, tensioner, idler pulleys. She runs silent at idle again from the work as she always has after a new timing belt & water pump.

Same exact issue! Reverted to a new stock radiator just so the car is all OEM again. Both new electric fans and new coolant expansion bottle. Full flush/refill with 70/30 green coolant. Cooling system burped properly, so no air pockets in cooling system.

Even installed two 12” pusher fans on the front of the AC condenser with a manual switch in the dash. The AC gets cold faster, but same issue!

Sensors…. Rad fan comes on full power at 200F, and both fans engage full power whenever the AC is engaged.

Oddity…. Stupid outside air temp on auto climate control just stuck at 68F recently, but the overheat was occurring when it read proper values. Replaced sensor, no joy, replaced auto climate control unit, same. 68! Never changes. Been looking for some kind of “reset” on the climate control it as some cars have this, but haven’t found one.

Heater immediately blows HOT air when climate control is set at max, 90F. So coolant is circulating well. Good AC when set to max, 62F on climate control.

Sensors read normal. Good MAF reading and normal on others, short term fuel trim on banks 0 & 1 are 0%. Long term bank 0, 0%, bank 1, 2%. No CEL codes ever.

Had an issue with volts, 13.8v with no load, but with AC, and all lights & acc on, at idle in drive, volts would drop to as low as 12.1v. 13.5v again once over 1200 rpms.

Replaced the alternator with new, and with an overdrive pulley as well, did voltage drop tests, .01v drop. But added a 4ga neg ground wire from alt bolt to frame and engine anyway. Added a 4ga pos cable from alt to battery anyway (properly fused). Volts are perfect now, keeps 13.8v at idle with all acc & AC on now.

ATF, coolant, eng oil all new, no leaks whatsoever before or now.

No exhaust leaks or blockages. Tested for blown head gasket with a gas detector on the radiator. 5 mins at temp, zero combustible gas detected…. Even made sure tester was good afterwards. Waved it by the exhaust a few times after testing. Fluid immediately turned yellow. No coolant level drop, no white smoke, performance is solid, coolant still perfect with no indication of any contamination or leak.

Electrical, all fuses good. None have ever blown.

I think I’ve covered everything! Bottom line, there’s nothing remaining to replace!

I really don’t want to go to the Hyundai dealer & tell them everything has been replaced…just friggin find out why it can’t hold temp with the AC on…. But it might be my last option!

So I’m back here hoping the experienced Tib owners might have anything left to suggest that hasn’t been checked or replaced.

The reputable shops here in Tucson are stumped.

Heck, if anyone can identify the cause here. I’d gladly PayPal you a $100 bounty to anyone who can nail this one down! Would be worth every cent!

If anyone has a suggestion here, easy money if you can bag this mystery!

Thanks in advance!
 
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