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Aftermarket(Wilwood) Front Big Brake Kit Install

DIY: 
18K views 45 replies 12 participants last post by  Tomhappyapril 
#1 · (Edited)
This is a step-by-step DIY for installing the Front Wilwood Big Brake Kit. This will be similar to how most BBK's are installed, so I'm sure this can be a reference for members with a different BBK.

**Before we begin, please note that I am not responsible for any issues that may arise during or after your time installing this.**

The install was simple and only took a few hours to bleed them and get it all back together. The kit was purchased in this GB from Todd: http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205788
If you have any questions regarding the purchasing of this kit, I'm sure Todd will answer any questions you may have.

Tools Needed
-Ratchet
-17mm Socket
-14mm Socket
-12mm Socket
-11mm 12-point Socket
-5/16 Socket
-7/16 Wrench
-1/2 Wrench
-11/16 Wrench
-Pliers/Channel Locks
-Phillips Head Screwdriver
-11mm Line Wrench
-Wire Brush
-Oil Pan or any other container to catch the brake fluid.
-Plenty of Towels or Paper Towels
-Dremel
-Car Jack
-Jack Stands

Optional Tools
-Impact Gun
-Hammer
-Drill
-Easy-out's

Parts Needed
Everything included in the box will be all you need, but I'll go over it anyways.

-Wilwood Brake Calipers



-Wilwood Hats



-Wilwood Rotors


-Wilwood Caliper Brackets


-Wilwood SS Brake Lines/Brackets/Clips


-Hardware(Bolts, Washers, Shims) and Brake Pads


-Dot 3 Brake Fluid(Any brand will work)


Step 1
Prep your rotors. The rotors need to be bolted to the hats with the 5/16 bolts and washers supplied. There are 16 of these in total. 8 for each rotor. Apply a little red loctite to each bolt and torque to 10-12 ft/lbs.



Step 2
Apply the straight fittings supplied with the brake lines. These fittings will be installed on the rear of the caliper. Remove the sticker covering the threads and apply a little teflon tape before bolting the fitting in.


Step 3
You'll want to make sure the car has been sitting for a little while. Rotors and fluid will be hot. Remove your brake fluid cap from the reservoir to relieve pressure. Get your car on your jack stands and remove the wheels. I hope I don't need to explain this any further, but if I do, let me know.


Step 4
Todd recommends that you leave the line attached to the caliper while you install the new brakes, leaving the caliper hanging. As you can see in this next step, I did it differently. I haven't had any issues, but I'd listen to Todd on this part.

Place your oil pan underneath the caliper. Unbolt the 12mm brake line bolt attached to the rear of the caliper. Continue while the fluid drains out. I couldn't get a very good pic of this.


Step 5
Use your 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two bolts holding the main part of the caliper on.


Step 6
Take your 17mm socket and remove the two bolts holding on the other part of the caliper. Now your caliper and pads should be completely removed.
You can barely see the top bolt in this pic.



Step 7
Use your Phillips head screwdriver to remove the two screws holding on the rotor. Now, on mine, this is where the easy-out's came in handy. One screw came out with no issues on both sides, but the others needed to be drilled out and removed. Once they're removed, the rotor is free. Mine came off with a little force. You may need to use a hammer on yours if they're on there really good.



Step 8
Use your 11mm line wrench to unbolt the brake line. Remove the clip holding this end of the line in and then use your 12mm socket to remove the bolt holding the line to strut assembly. The line will now be free.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Re: DIY: Aftermarket(Wilwood) Big Brake Kit Install

Step 9
You'll need to cut the bottom portion of the dust shields. I used my dremel, but any other tool for cutting will be fine. (It is recommended that you remove the dust shield completely. I obviously didn't do this, but do as you see fit.)


Step 10
Take the 7/16 bolts and washers and attach the caliper brackets to the mounting points on the spindle. You'll need to place a shim on the other side of each bolt when doing this as well. Please your instructions provided for a better reference.



Step 11
Use your wire brush to clean the hub and spindle. This will ensure that the hat will sit properly in place. Place your rotors on the spindle. The hats have many holes, but only the 5 for the lugs will be utilized. You wont need to screw these on. Now if you have a couple bolts that will fit your lugs, bolt these on finger-tight. I didn't so I just used my lug nuts and a wrench for the spacing. This is simply done to hold the rotor in place while you install the caliper and pads.

You can see how I did it in this pic. I only used one nut.


Step 12
Now you will install the caliper. There are shims and spacers that go on before putting the caliper on. I used 3 shims per mounting point. And it's bolted on with the two 12-point 11mm self locking nuts and washers. Bolt these to a snug fit. Please use the instructions again as a better reference.



Step 13
Take the pads and pad shims provided. Apply the shims to the back of the pads. With the pad retainer removed, slide the pads in the caliper. Line the holes up on the pads with the caliper so the retainer can be put back on.



Step 14
Take your brake line and attach the bracket to the center moving mount using one of the clips. Use another clip to secure the M10 fitting end to the body bracket. Bolt the hardline to the new line using the 11mm line wrench. Don't use teflon(Initially made that mistake). Route the line the same way the stock line was routed. Bolt the 90 degree fitting on the other end to the straight fitting. Again, don't use teflon. Both ends should be bolted to a snug fit. For the center mount bracket, I laid the stock line out next to the new line and lined them up. Made things a lot easier. Then I just bolted it back onto the strut assembly with the 12mm bolt.


You can kind of see how it should be routed behind the coilover.


Step 15
Remove the nut holding the rotor on, check to make sure all bolts and nuts are tight. Proceed to doing the same steps on the other side.

Step 16
Once both sides have been completely installed, fill your brake fluid reservoir and put the cap back on. Continue to bleed your brakes. You will need to do your rear calipers and the top 2 nipples on each front caliper(outside nipple, then inside nipple). Start with the caliper that is furthest away from the master cylinder. Should be passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. Once they are bleed, check your fluid level again to ensure there's enough. (If you need help with this part, shoot me a PM or Google it. I've always used the old-fashioned way of pumping them up, then bleeding, but there are other methods. That part is up to you.)

Step 17
Bolt your wheels backs on, lower your car back on the ground, and now you need to make sure your lines aren't interfering with anything. Turn your wheels completely from right to left. If there is interference, adjust accordingly.

Step 18
Test your brakes. Back out slowly. The pedal should feel fairly stiff. Turn your wheel completely from right to left, ensuring braking is working throughout the full wheel motion. If all feels well, then take it out at a fairly low speed(15-20mph). I went by a school parking lot to bed them.
Here's how I did mine:
1. From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
2. Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 10-15 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.
3. The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
4. After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need only a few minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.
5. If full race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction PFC01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10 mph.

After a couple days, you'll want to go back and make sure all bolts are still tight and everything is in line. You'll also want to do one more light bleed per upper bleeder only.

Step 19
You're done! Enjoy your new BBK.




Here are some extra pics. Just to show the differences in the old and new:




Overall Review

Awesome product! Easy install, great fit, and very professional service from Todd. Price was killer and I'm already loving the new brakes.

Any questions or suggestions in order to make this DIY better for the community are always welcome. Please let me know if I forgot something or need to explain something further.

Thanks,

-Generalduke-
 
#7 ·
Re: DIY: Aftermarket(Wilwood) Big Brake Kit Install

Thanks for the writeup.

One quick question, you keep mentioning "included instructions"... I didn't get any?
 
#9 ·
Re: DIY: Aftermarket(Wilwood) Big Brake Kit Install

Thanks for the writeup.

One quick question, you keep mentioning "included instructions"... I didn't get any?
There should have been a packet with multiple wilwood decals and instructions from TCE. If you need them, I can scan them onto my mac or I'm sure Todd can send you a PDF.
 
#10 ·
Re: DIY: Aftermarket(Wilwood) Big Brake Kit Install

Yea the decals were there but no instructions! If you could scan them and email them to me I'd appreciate it.

I'll PM you my email.
 
#12 ·
Re: DIY: Aftermarket(Wilwood) Big Brake Kit Install

Did you end up using the reducers stapled to the relocation bracket hardware?
 
#14 ·
Re: DIY: Aftermarket(Wilwood) Big Brake Kit Install

Ok.

Also, I picked up a 3/8" 12pt socket while I was at the auto parts getting stuff for the 'hoe today, and... It doesn't fit?



I ended up getting an 11mm 12pt.



inb4breeechanpostingGeneraldukeisaLIAR
 
#15 ·
Re: DIY: Aftermarket(Wilwood) Big Brake Kit Install

11 mm worked like mine?!?! LUKE! YOU REPRESENTER OF MISGUIDED INFORMATION! YOU ****ING REPRESENTER OF MISGUIDED INFORMATION!! Brakes look great, how are they holding up to the wintry weather?
 
#16 ·
Re: DIY: Aftermarket(Wilwood) Big Brake Kit Install

11 mm worked like mine?!?! LUKE! YOU REPRESENTER OF MISGUIDED INFORMATION! YOU ****ING REPRESENTER OF MISGUIDED INFORMATION!! Brakes look great, how are they holding up to the wintry weather?
Revised. I couldn't recall the sizes when I made the DIY. I went back to the instructions to see what they were. Sorry for the mistake. Brakes are holding up great. It's not my DD, but I've taken it out quite a bit lately. All is well.
 
#17 ·
Re: DIY: Aftermarket(Wilwood) Big Brake Kit Install

I bought a new socket, 7/16 I believe. It's overall size is smaller than the 11mm I bought (3/8" drive instead of 1/2") so it can fit in the hole on the caliper where the nut goes.
 
#18 ·
Re: DIY: Aftermarket(Wilwood) Big Brake Kit Install

I bought a new socket, 7/16 I believe. It's overall size is smaller than the 11mm I bought (3/8" drive instead of 1/2") so it can fit in the hole on the caliper where the nut goes.
LOL, I wish I would have just looked at the damn socket now.
 
#19 ·
Re: DIY: Aftermarket(Wilwood) Big Brake Kit Install

Hahaha it's all good man! I know the guys at the place so I just traded them the 11 they gave me for a 7/16 deep socket. :)
 
#20 ·
Re: DIY: Aftermarket(Wilwood) Big Brake Kit Install

well ****. I installed the brakes today, the fitting on the SS lines are wrong. They are a cone connecting to the stock hard line, which is also a cone. I didn't even look and tried installing it, and stripped the hard line nut. ****. ****. I am trying to call TCE and have them send me new lines with the correct fittings.. I don't even know what to do about the stripped hard line fitting. I guess I'll have to buy a whole new hard line from the driver side to the ABS module.
 
#22 ·
Re: DIY: Aftermarket(Wilwood) Big Brake Kit Install

Received your email last evening. The hoses for you car are M10-10 bubble flare to -3AN 90 degree for the caliper. These are the only hoses to ever be shipped on this or the former kits from some years ago. If you'll email me an image of the hose ends you have I'll be happy to verify them as that. If you need something different than this I have no idea what it is and would need more information.
 
#23 ·
Re: DIY: Aftermarket(Wilwood) Big Brake Kit Install

The image I received from breeecham indicates a set of hoses with the improper IF or inverted flare fitting on them. I'm at a loss as to why or how but wan to make certain nobody else has these by mistake also. I currently have two more sets of hoses on the shelf with the correct ends on them. Not sure if my supplier had a manufacturing issue or if somehow this one kit got the wrong hose set.

Please look at both hoses and see that they are concave or like the image on the right. If they have a raised center point inside the barrel that will be incorrect.




If already installed on your car I would not remove them to inspect. If they were going to give you a problem it would have done so by now. Even if the conical shape is incorrect and installed they have seated to the hose and should be left alone.
 
#24 ·
Re: DIY: Aftermarket(Wilwood) Big Brake Kit Install

Todd certainly took care of the problem quickly, the hoses were sent out the day after reporting the mismatch to him! What fantastic customer service, I was also able to file off the cross threaded portion of my hardline and it sealed up fine~
 
#25 ·
Re: DIY: Aftermarket(Wilwood) Big Brake Kit Install

Nice! So you got the new hoses already?
 
#27 ·
Re: DIY: Aftermarket(Wilwood) Big Brake Kit Install

Very nice! :D
 
#28 ·
Re: DIY: Aftermarket(Wilwood) Big Brake Kit Install

drove it for the first time, pedal feels so fantastic, firm and responsive. I have to get used to the slightly increased bite. Saving up for the rear kit :)
 
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