This is a step-by-step DIY for installing the Front Wilwood Big Brake Kit. This will be similar to how most BBK's are installed, so I'm sure this can be a reference for members with a different BBK.
**Before we begin, please note that I am not responsible for any issues that may arise during or after your time installing this.**
The install was simple and only took a few hours to bleed them and get it all back together. The kit was purchased in this GB from Todd: http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205788
If you have any questions regarding the purchasing of this kit, I'm sure Todd will answer any questions you may have.
Tools Needed
-Ratchet
-17mm Socket
-14mm Socket
-12mm Socket
-11mm 12-point Socket
-5/16 Socket
-7/16 Wrench
-1/2 Wrench
-11/16 Wrench
-Pliers/Channel Locks
-Phillips Head Screwdriver
-11mm Line Wrench
-Wire Brush
-Oil Pan or any other container to catch the brake fluid.
-Plenty of Towels or Paper Towels
-Dremel
-Car Jack
-Jack Stands
Optional Tools
-Impact Gun
-Hammer
-Drill
-Easy-out's
Parts Needed
Everything included in the box will be all you need, but I'll go over it anyways.
-Wilwood Brake Calipers
-Wilwood Hats
-Wilwood Rotors
-Wilwood Caliper Brackets
-Wilwood SS Brake Lines/Brackets/Clips
-Hardware(Bolts, Washers, Shims) and Brake Pads
-Dot 3 Brake Fluid(Any brand will work)
Step 1
Prep your rotors. The rotors need to be bolted to the hats with the 5/16 bolts and washers supplied. There are 16 of these in total. 8 for each rotor. Apply a little red loctite to each bolt and torque to 10-12 ft/lbs.
Step 2
Apply the straight fittings supplied with the brake lines. These fittings will be installed on the rear of the caliper. Remove the sticker covering the threads and apply a little teflon tape before bolting the fitting in.
Step 3
You'll want to make sure the car has been sitting for a little while. Rotors and fluid will be hot. Remove your brake fluid cap from the reservoir to relieve pressure. Get your car on your jack stands and remove the wheels. I hope I don't need to explain this any further, but if I do, let me know.
Step 4
Todd recommends that you leave the line attached to the caliper while you install the new brakes, leaving the caliper hanging. As you can see in this next step, I did it differently. I haven't had any issues, but I'd listen to Todd on this part.
Place your oil pan underneath the caliper. Unbolt the 12mm brake line bolt attached to the rear of the caliper. Continue while the fluid drains out. I couldn't get a very good pic of this.
Step 5
Use your 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two bolts holding the main part of the caliper on.
Step 6
Take your 17mm socket and remove the two bolts holding on the other part of the caliper. Now your caliper and pads should be completely removed.
You can barely see the top bolt in this pic.
Step 7
Use your Phillips head screwdriver to remove the two screws holding on the rotor. Now, on mine, this is where the easy-out's came in handy. One screw came out with no issues on both sides, but the others needed to be drilled out and removed. Once they're removed, the rotor is free. Mine came off with a little force. You may need to use a hammer on yours if they're on there really good.
Step 8
Use your 11mm line wrench to unbolt the brake line. Remove the clip holding this end of the line in and then use your 12mm socket to remove the bolt holding the line to strut assembly. The line will now be free.
**Before we begin, please note that I am not responsible for any issues that may arise during or after your time installing this.**
The install was simple and only took a few hours to bleed them and get it all back together. The kit was purchased in this GB from Todd: http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205788
If you have any questions regarding the purchasing of this kit, I'm sure Todd will answer any questions you may have.
Tools Needed
-Ratchet
-17mm Socket
-14mm Socket
-12mm Socket
-11mm 12-point Socket
-5/16 Socket
-7/16 Wrench
-1/2 Wrench
-11/16 Wrench
-Pliers/Channel Locks
-Phillips Head Screwdriver
-11mm Line Wrench
-Wire Brush
-Oil Pan or any other container to catch the brake fluid.
-Plenty of Towels or Paper Towels
-Dremel
-Car Jack
-Jack Stands
Optional Tools
-Impact Gun
-Hammer
-Drill
-Easy-out's
Parts Needed
Everything included in the box will be all you need, but I'll go over it anyways.
-Wilwood Brake Calipers
-Wilwood Hats
-Wilwood Rotors
-Wilwood Caliper Brackets
-Wilwood SS Brake Lines/Brackets/Clips
-Hardware(Bolts, Washers, Shims) and Brake Pads
-Dot 3 Brake Fluid(Any brand will work)
Step 1
Prep your rotors. The rotors need to be bolted to the hats with the 5/16 bolts and washers supplied. There are 16 of these in total. 8 for each rotor. Apply a little red loctite to each bolt and torque to 10-12 ft/lbs.
Step 2
Apply the straight fittings supplied with the brake lines. These fittings will be installed on the rear of the caliper. Remove the sticker covering the threads and apply a little teflon tape before bolting the fitting in.
Step 3
You'll want to make sure the car has been sitting for a little while. Rotors and fluid will be hot. Remove your brake fluid cap from the reservoir to relieve pressure. Get your car on your jack stands and remove the wheels. I hope I don't need to explain this any further, but if I do, let me know.
Step 4
Todd recommends that you leave the line attached to the caliper while you install the new brakes, leaving the caliper hanging. As you can see in this next step, I did it differently. I haven't had any issues, but I'd listen to Todd on this part.
Place your oil pan underneath the caliper. Unbolt the 12mm brake line bolt attached to the rear of the caliper. Continue while the fluid drains out. I couldn't get a very good pic of this.
Step 5
Use your 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two bolts holding the main part of the caliper on.
Step 6
Take your 17mm socket and remove the two bolts holding on the other part of the caliper. Now your caliper and pads should be completely removed.
You can barely see the top bolt in this pic.
Step 7
Use your Phillips head screwdriver to remove the two screws holding on the rotor. Now, on mine, this is where the easy-out's came in handy. One screw came out with no issues on both sides, but the others needed to be drilled out and removed. Once they're removed, the rotor is free. Mine came off with a little force. You may need to use a hammer on yours if they're on there really good.
Step 8
Use your 11mm line wrench to unbolt the brake line. Remove the clip holding this end of the line in and then use your 12mm socket to remove the bolt holding the line to strut assembly. The line will now be free.