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2006 Hyundai Tiburon GT 2.7l v6
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys I've replaced crankshaft position sensor, entire ignition coil, ECU, and BMC and I'm still getting no spark or injector pulse. Using a multi meter I'm getting 8.2-3 volts at the coil connection, no volts at the injectors. Idk what else to do but set it on fire. Please someone tell me what else is there that I can do or what the hell is keeping it from getting spark signal and injection pulse signal....
 

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Can you communicate with the computer with a scan tool? If you replaced all those things, and you still have no spark, then it sounds to me like the ecu may not be turning on. You can verify this two ways. When you cycle the ignition to on, the check engine light should illuminate. If it does not, the ecu may not be turning on. Either way, try to connect with a scan tool. If it fails to connect, again its possible the ecu is not turning on.

Those are quick things to try. If you have communication with the ecu, then we'll move on to some wiring diagnosis.
 

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2006 Hyundai Tiburon GT 2.7l v6
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay here is what it does, when you turn the key on yea the check engine light comes on with both the original and used ECU's but when I put my newer code scanner on it, 7 out of 10 times I just get an ERROR mssg on, or it gives me 0 DTC and a green light on the screen. I've done everything I can think of what the ignition system, new coil assembly, (yes it's grounded) and I've replaced fuel pump, it's pumping 105.5psi, I just replaced the BCM today hoping that was it (it wasn't apparently) idk the kid I bought it from said he drove it home one night then came out the next morning and it wouldn't start, I got to it and seen that there was no spark or injector pulse, I figured crankshaft position sensor but the one from AutoZone didn't work, so I think I'ma order an OEM one. But I'm not sure that's the problem cause with it cause with quite a bit of starting fluid, it'll kick over for just a second like it's getting hard spark on one cylinder, and I tested the compression and got 180psi on 4 cylinders and 150psi on the other two and checked leakdowm and it was perfect. So what else could it be and does this car a 2006 Hyundai Tiburon GT automatic 2.7l V6 idk what else to do.
 

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2006 Hyundai Tiburon GT 2.7l v6
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well when I turn the key on the CEL does come on on the dash but when I try to read any codes my newer scanner that came from AutoZone will say ERROR when trying to read 7 out of 10 times, now my old scanner will read it pretty quickly and I always have 0 detected codes. And sometimes it'll say ERROR and it does it with both ECU's. Thats why after I've replaced almost everything already, like does the new ECU need flashed? Does an 06 have a coded key? There's no key symbol on the dash. Like no security light or anything else like that. Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the pigtail for the coil connector? I'm really stumped here and I've never seen anything like this, does an 06 have an imobilizer????
 

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This may or may not help u but my old 04 used to have a key reader / imobilizer issue. I used to have to take the key out and lock the car with the remote and unlock it again and put the key back in and try crank it again.
Sometimes I’d do this like 5 times before it’d start. It would crank but just wouldn’t start. Then all of a sudden after putting the key in and out a few times it’d just start like nothing was wrong.
It used to drive me bananas 😬
 

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I'm in Newton NC, but only 20 miles from I-485. I need someone else's opinion on it and to look at it.
Aw hell, you are only an hour north of me up 321. Im slammed with work all through this weekend, but ill find some time to take a ride out there this coming week. Send me a pm when you are ready and ill trade info with you.
 

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oh also, im rereading your original post. You said you arent getting voltage at all at the injectors? You should have battery voltage on the Brown/White wire for the injectors. All injectors share the same power source. Goes like this:

Battery (12v) > 30A ECU fuse > Engine Control Relay > 15A INJ fuse > Injectors

Verify that you see battery voltage across the 30A ECU fuse.

Now, from the engine control relay, power also feeds the ignition coil, and a dozen other components. Specifically, you should see battery voltage on the red wire of the ignition coil with ignition key in the ON position.

If you dont see battery voltage, pull the engine control relay, and check the terminals in the fuse block. You should see two terminals showing battery voltage. These terminals are hot at all times regardless of key position.
 

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2006 Hyundai Tiburon GT 2.7l v6
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Aw hell, you are only an hour north of me up 321. Im slammed with work all through this weekend, but ill find some time to take a ride out there this coming week. Send me a pm when you are ready and ill trade info with you.
Alright man hell any advice or someone elses opinion I'll gladly take, give me a text or call at 828-449-9944 my name is Sebastian.
 

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Be careful about posting your number publicly lol

Check out the things i posted above too and let us know what you find. That will make it easier for me to know what diagnostic tools to bring.
 

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Guys I've replaced crankshaft position sensor, entire ignition coil, ECU, and BMC and I'm still getting no spark or injector pulse. Using a multi meter I'm getting 8.2-3 volts at the coil connection, no volts at the injectors. Idk what else to do but set it on fire. Please someone tell me what else is there that I can do or what the hell is keeping it from getting spark signal and injection pulse signal....
Guys I've replaced crankshaft position sensor, entire ignition coil, ECU, and BMC and I'm still getting no spark or injector pulse. Using a multi meter I'm getting 8.2-3 volts at the coil connection, no volts at the injectors. Idk what else to do but set it on fire. Please someone tell me what else is there that I can do or what the hell is keeping it from getting spark signal and injection pulse signal....
Hello Hawks, I am coming in on the end of your posts and you are getting excellent advice from other members. A couple of things crossed my mind regarding your problem. These are;
1. Was the replacement ECU programmed to suit your car and this should have been done when you brought it?
2. Have you used NOID lights to check whether each injector is communicating with the ECU. You can buy a cheap set of these lights from Harbor Freight and they work. A non-working NOID light could also lead to a wiring harness fault or an ECU fault.
I hope that you get it fixed and please let the forum know what the issue was.
Thank you
John
 

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2006 Hyundai Tiburon SE
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1. Was the replacement ECU programmed to suit your car and this should have been done when you brought it?
I reflash/reprogram Tiburon ECUs, as a hobby and to help people in need, so I feel that I can chime in on this with some kind of authority.

In the US you don't need to reprogram the ECU in most cases. Generally speaking all US ECUs are interchangeable as long as they match the transmission type, immobilizer enabled/disabled function and O2 sensor type (1volt vs 5volt) based on manufacture date (mfg date before or after January 31s 2003). The car will still start as long as you have the right engine size and immobilizer enabled/disabled status. However, It will run poorly once closed loop kicks in where the O2 sensor type doesn't match. Even if you have the wrong transmission type it will still start and drive no problem.

As it turns out 99.9% of all US Tiburons are non-IMMO so hawks72511 shouldn't need his ECU programmed unless his state requires VIN matching for state emissions/inspection purposes. IMMO was a factory add-on but very rarely used in the US. Unlike Canada, where it was a legal requirement, 100% of Canadian cars were equipped with the immobilizer. Reprogramming really only applies to cars equipped with immobilizers for years 07-08 that require VIN matching between the BCM and ECU to start the car. IMMO enabled ECUs between 03-06 don't require VIN matching to start the car as long as the IMMO flags are enabled in the ECU configuration.

It's still possible that he bought an IMMO ECU and/or BCM from a Canadian car so that could prevent his car from starting without any indication on the gauge cluster as to why. IMMO works by disabling the 3 ignition channels on the ECU if it cannot detect an IMMO enabled BCM giving the "all ready" signal back to the ECU over the CANBUS. An IMMO enabled BCM has a redundant circuit that kills power to the coils if it cannot communicate with the key cylinder and key fob that matches the BCM. Since his car is most likely a US car without the immobilizer it will be missing the immobilizer fault indicator light on the gauge cluster so it's not easy to diagnose without reading the EEPROM to determine without a doubt that it's a non-IMMO ECU. It will crank forever without firing the coils if he's got either an IMMO ECU or IMMO BCM without the rest of the matching pieces.

If @hawks72511 can take a picture of original and new BCM's and ECU's I may be able to determine if there is a cross compatibility problem. But I believe he claimed that he matched the part numbers exactly so that may be a moot point. Part numbers won't tell us if the ECU is IMMO enabled which is the biggest concern at this point. If he hasn't bought an OEM Hyundai/NTK branded crank sensor he needs to complete that first. If that fails, he should definitely swap his old ECU and BCM into the car to test it and report back with the results.
 

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So heres an update. I checked out the car the other day. It definitely does not have spark or injector pulse.

I found some damage to the wiring harness in the area near the crank/O2 sensor. We repaired that, but turns out it was part of the O2 circuit.

I verified power to the coil and injectors. The ECU is not grounding the circuits, however it is closing the circuit to the engine control relay and allowing power to feed all components. We can also communicate with the ECU. So i believe the ECU is functioning and powered on. It is not throwing any codes.

I verified continuity on the signal wire, and sensor ground for the crank sensor to the pcm. I forgot to check for short to power/ground on those circuits though. I reminded him to double check that and let me know.

He had purchased a second, running vehicle. The crank sensor had a crack in it, but was original, and that vehicle started. He stated that he had swapped that sensor to his vehicle, and still had no luck. I also found that the crank sensor in it was not seated all the way during some of our testing. Seated the sensor, which was aftermarket, and had no luck. We did not try the OE sensor from the other car again as it was late and cold at that point.

I told him to put the second car completely back together again with all of its original parts, verify it still starts, and begin swapping parts into it that are in question to verify they are good. If the vehicle still runs then we know the parts are good for sure. I have not heard from him in a few days though.

So the story is, the previous owner was driving home. The vehicle began to run rough, but made it home. The next morning, it failed to start and has not run since.

i think after verifying some of the components in question are good, Im going to bring a scan tool back over there and look at some live data, specifically rpm.

Edit: You know what.... I just had a thought. I wonder if theres something wrong with the reluctor ring. How do those mount in the 2.7?
 

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2006 Hyundai Tiburon SE
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Edit: You know what.... I just had a thought. I wonder if theres something wrong with the reluctor ring. How do those mount in the 2.7?
It's got 4 set screws that mount it to the crankshaft. It can't slip off like the press on type but I suppose it could break apart in a worse case scenario. But you would likely find glitter in the oil pan if that happened.

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Gear Vehicle
 
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