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How much boost were u running for 400hp. I have the same Kinugawa turbo except a 16G. I put a kit together back in 2014, I had it on an RD1 with a low 5 psi setup untuned but ended up taking it off a few months later.
The kit has been sitting in a box for the last 5 years ?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
How much boost were u running for 400hp. I have the same Kinugawa turbo except a 16G. I put a kit together back in 2014, I had it on an RD1 with a low 5 psi setup untuned but ended up taking it off a few months later.
The kit has been sitting in a box for the last 5 years ?
I was running between 19-24psi on the Kinugawa 20G, pretty awesome little turbo for the price :)

Unfortunately the hunt for some kind of aftermarket performance bearings hasn't been very successful...

I've spoken to pretty much every supplier I can find online but they've all told me they can only supply standard aluminum bearings from ACL, King, Clevite or Mahle.

So the question is... Do i really need tri-metal bearings? Would you consider King or ACL better than OEM? How durable are aluminium bearings at 8000rpm?

Has anyone had experience with these?
 

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Hey man, cool work!
I think i bought your last big brake kit before the D2.
I too have a D2 now :)
Do you ever plan on getting somthing for the rear brakes?
Funny thing that we have the same engine and I have the same plans as you do :p
greetings from germany
 

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Hi guys,

I'm in the process of building a fresh 2.0L G4GC Beta-II with forged internals after recently throwing a rod in a rather explosive manner :p

My previous configuration was a stock Beta-II pushing around 400whp using a decompression plate to lower the compression to 8.5:1, the engine was otherwise completely stock and unopened.

I originally turbocharged the car back in October 2012 with a Kinugawa TD05H-20G and Jattus tubular / equal length manifold. This setup has proven to be a beast on the street, it's also been also fairly reliable. I like to take the car on circuit track days every 2-3 months so I can put myself and the car through its paces.

New Engine Components:
  • Pauter X-Beam Rods
  • CP Pistons, 9:1, standard 82mm bore
  • ARP Main studs
  • ARP Head studs
  • ARP 2000 rod bolts
  • Brian Crower valve springs, retainers and locks
  • ClutchMasters 7.25” Twin Disc
  • ARP Flywheel bolts
Transmission:
  • Stock GJ93 Gearbox
  • Custom gear set from Elite Racing (1st gear is straight cut, 2-5th are helical)
  • Gears manufactured from aviation grade S156 material
  • Hardened and REM finished so should be much stronger than stock
  • Larger input shaft / spline (24.9mm, 23 tooth) same as the Mitsubishi Evo 9
  • Quaife LSD (QDH8B with Mitsubishi Speedo Gear MD717879)
  • Push-clutch conversion with throw-out bearing, clutch fork and retainer from Atelier HP
  • Standard bearings and synchro’s with temperature sensor boss welded on
Missing parts:
  • Race Bearings (rods and mains) – I can’t find the part numbers for ACL or King bearings
  • Camshafts – I can’t find any off-the-shelf products (considering a custom re-grind)
  • Lightweight Crank Pulley – ordered an Alutec pulley from Australia
Electronics Package:
  • Link G4+ Thunder ECU
  • Coil-on-plug conversion for sequential injection (Toyota coils)
  • Injector Dynamic 850cc injectors (stock fuel rail)
  • Walbro 190LPH fuel pump (stock lines)
  • E-Throttle conversion with Bosch throttle body and pedal
  • MAC 4 port boost solenoid
  • Multiple EGT probes (pre / post turbo)
  • Dedicated LSU4.9 wideband + AEM Failsafe gauge
  • OEM knock, cam, crank, ECT sensors
  • OEM CVVT, 2 wire oil valve on the intake side
  • Motec fuel pressure, oil pressure and gearbox oil temp sensors
  • Launch control, traction control, flat foot shift, downshift blip and all that good stuff
I don't suppose anyone has the part numbers from ACL or King etc, I'm really keen on upgrading the bearings as i doubt the OEM bearings can handle 500-600whp?
Do you still have the part number for the valve springs? I would like to do that change to my engine. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Hey Lukass,

With the rear brakes i've upgraded to 313mm drilled and grooved discs with Ferodo DS2500 pads.

I initially upgraded just for appearance as the OEM rear discs looked way too small in comparison to the 356x32mm D2's on the front.

Saying that they seem work a treat on track :)
The brake bias seems well balanced with this combo and I've had no issues with brake fade despite the skinny / solid 313x11mm discs.

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Revolution Brakes - Rear Disc Upgrade
313mm X 11mm solid cross drilled Rotors
Designed to run with your stock calipers (not included)
High Performance Street Pads
10-X Adapters with all necessary hardware
SS Braided Flex Hoses
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Fyi...The discs are actually from Honda Pilot although they have been machined to fit the Coupe's larger centre hub reg :)
 

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Discussion Starter #27
With regards to Valve Springs.. I'm planning on using Brian Crower's 4G63 kit...

I haven't completed the head assembly just yet so i'm unable to confirm fitment...

Brian Crower Valve Springs
4G63 VALVE SPRING KIT - BC1100

Single coil valve springs without titanium retainers
15% more pressure than factory spring
Purchased from torqen.uk
 

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Discussion Starter #28
After a 14 month wait I've also received one of these...

Alutec Lightweight Billet Pulley
Hyundai Tiburon GK - G4GC 2.0 DOHC 16v VVT (Beta-II) MY01-08
Constructed out of grade 7075-T6 aerospace aluminium
Factory balanced and counter-weighted for direct bolt-on with factory belt positioning.
These units do not require any belt changes as it’s an oem sized pulley
This unit only weighs 855 grams and is the lightest unit on the market
The OEM crank pulley weighs roughly 4 pounds / 1814g

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Many thanks to David @ RPW Oz for his time and effort in making these one off parts.
 

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Thanks for those Infos, those are really good input and its good to know, that there are still companies, that sell parts for the tib!
Please tell us if you know about the fitment of the valve springs!
Why did it take 14months to get a pulley?
Is that company not relieable?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I'm afraid i haven't finished the head assembly just yet. I'm currently waiting on the machine shop then i need to get the head off to the porting guy.

With RPW as it was a custom order for the Hyundai pulleys they wanted to wait for a large batch before ordering from Alutec.

Top notch company, i would highly recommend :)
 

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Ah, okay thanks, I understood.
wow, those look really fucked... but hey,it's stock 350hp :p
Please let me know, which parts u use to geht this thing finally on the street!
Going to buy the same parts maybe :)
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Thanks for the link, that's what i ended up going for actually :)

It's a shame I can't get hold of some performance bearings though, King can only supply in the AM material.

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Discussion Starter #37
Mainly just beautification work really...

I've decided to switch from Toyota coils to big beefy R35 coils. I've also shaved off the support clips from the old plug wires and painted in grey wrinkle.
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Next steps, i need to figure out the PCV system as my old setup wasn't really up to the job.

I have AN8 fittings ready to install in the valve cover and also a couple of good quality baffled catch cans.

I also need to figure out how to mount the coil packs... I'll post more on this later as they are not a direct fit like the Toyota coils.
 

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Sorry For My Bad English and writing

i have same project .
elantra xd 2005
engine g4gc. (like yours)

new parts :
cp pistons. (like yours)
Pauter con rods (like yours)
turbo GT28 ball bearing
intercooler evo 4
con rods bearing (king racing)

i want 250 WHP @ 13-15 psi
with stock gearbox (without change or after market part for gearbox or clutch)

should i change any part of gearbox or clutch for 250 whp ?
 
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