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Sorry For My Bad English and writing

i have same project .
elantra xd 2005
engine g4gc. (like yours)

new parts :
cp pistons. (like yours)
Pauter con rods (like yours)
turbo GT28 ball bearing
intercooler evo 4
con rods bearing (king racing)

i want 250 WHP @ 13-15 psi
with stock gearbox (without change or after market part for gearbox or clutch)

should i change any part of gearbox or clutch for 250 whp ?
Sorta depends on how you drive! Ease into it, torque is the killer as well as traction.
Doing high revs and dump the clutch....yep, may need to upgrade trans parts as well as drive axles...
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Yeah having been through a number of stock gearboxes myself i would say they are reasonably reliable providing you keep the torque below 350ft/lb and don't go to the drag strip too often.

Clutch wise, i've been running a SMT / XTD 5 puck (sprung) race clutch / lightweight flywheel for years. I had the whole assembly cryogenically treated before installing and that was over 5 years ago now.

For the new setup i've opted for the Clutchmasters twin disc. Sounds like you'll be needing a clutch upgrade though.

What's the part number for con rod bearings you have?
 

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i have adjust ecu and i can limit torque .. thanks for your help 🙏
and yes i think i'll be needing an after market clutch, but i have to burn this first :ِD

con rod bearings : i can't find set of main bearing and con bearing in One package ! just 1 link i find in ebay but price was very high.

and i got these 2 links with lower price
and
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Ok cool, just King standard AM bearings then.

I purchased both from Asvela as they are an authorised distributor for King.

Rod bearings:
CR4235AM

Main bearings:
MB5256AM

Thrust bearings:
21030-23100
 

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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
I've been doing some research into head stud hardware as i want something that can reliability handle 600whp / 500ft-lb torque.

In some respects i feel we're some what limited with the smaller diameter studs unless of course we upgrade to larger diameter studs.

Looking into the 4G63 platform and the Honda world they both use M11 studs and whilst an extra millimetre doesn't sounds much, I think this is the main reason they are able to handle such high cylinder pressures.

With ARP hardware for our engines, we can either get the M10 studs in ARP 8740 or Custom Age 625+ materials.

With the standard ARP 8740 material i feel similar clamping forces can be achieved using the stock head bolts. I've been running a set of OEM bolts, torqued down to 60ft-lb and whilst i haven't had any head gasket issues the OEM washers started to deform and crush the soft aluminium head.

With my new engine, I'm going to try the Custom Age 625+ M10 studs. This should allow me to torque the M10's down to 80ft-lb and I can also apply the same torque to the M12's. With the ARP hardware the washers should be significantly stronger than stock which should prevent them deforming when tightening down.


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Depending on the turbo setup it's often low piston speed, combine with high cylinder pressures for a long duration that puts the head gasket under the most strain.

I think the most important thing here is the tune as while the turbo might be capable of spooling fast enough to produce a large amounts of low end torque, it's ultimately low end torque / peak cylinder pressures that kills a lot of engines.

For example, if you look at the 4G63 rally builds, these engines are capable of producing in excessive to 700lb-ft torque at 4000rpm with around 45psi of boost. They typically run a 9:0:1 - 9.5:1 compression ratio which i find truly amazing. There biggest problem though is sealing the head to the block and keeping things reliable.

With 4G63's these are known to have a lot of flex in the block itself as they have a relativity thin deck to hold them down. It doesn't make since installing larger studs, as the more torque you apply the more you distort the block. A lot of guys actually use steel head spacers with an OEM head gasket on either side to allow the block to flex without comprising the head gasket integrity.

Looking into the Toyota MR2 world (specifically the 2.0L 3SGTE engine) these have cast iron blocks with alumi heads and also have M10 head studs.

On high boost builds it seems quite common to use the CA625+ hardware as they have reported stretching the ARP8740 studs around 500ft/lb TQ.

For the Evo / Honda world they can often get away using ARP 2000 studs as these provide enough clamping force due to the larger diameter studs.

Anyway, i'm not sure how much of this applies to the BETA-II, if anything it just shows a few things to take into consideration when selecting head stud hardware.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
With the catch can setup, i've been running dual catch cans for years which had proved quite effective. With the new engine, due to the larger ring gaps I expect they'll be more blow by...

On the valve cover I've replaced the factory barb and PCV valve with -8 straight through fittings. I've always run an extra check valve inline with the intake manifold hose just intake the PCV valve fails. I'm not sure Hyundai designed these with boost in mind :p

Hopefully upgrading to larger hoses will be enough to adequately vent the crankcase.
135523
 

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Ok cool, just King standard AM bearings then.

Rod bearings:
CR4235AM
Take a look at KING CR4120XP 021 - Big End race bearings for G4JP
With the 021 undersize at the end, it should get you within a half a thousandth on max thickness. The rest of the dimensions line up pretty much perfectly. This isn't something I've tested, but it gets you closer than before. My boosted beta II is just a rough idea so far, too involved in my tragic Volvo obsession right now.

I have found nothing at all for the thrust washer or Main bearings. I really do think that the AM bearings with adequate oiling should be good enough in the Mains for all but circuit racing applications.

The Big End is where I see all the wear in my Volvo 5 pot 2.4L (415.8 awhp @, 26psi) about 60,000 miles, and the XP bearings look great, brand new nearly.

Yours is a great template project, I will be back for more details as time goes on.
Take Care, chronos
 

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Hi, to get the AN Fittings there, did you remove those nipple thingys and drill in a thred or is there allready a thread behind it and I couldnt find it jet?
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
Take a look at KING CR4120XP 021 - Big End race bearings for G4JP
Great stuff, they look perfect. Thank you very much. I've always wondered how people have managed to use big end bearings from the 4G63... It appears they have a couple of different part numbers as the ACL equivalents i previously had were incorrect. These look promising though.

I know a few Volvo guys actually, I had great fun last summer at the Volvo Club track day. Some of these are really fast :)

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
The stock PCV valve has a brass self tapping insert which i removed and just used a stepper drill to bore out then turned a new thread. The 2nd fitting was originally a small barb moulded to the valve cover but i accidentally snapped it off as the chain from the engine hoist got caught around it. Anyway it didn't matter as I've replaced with the -8 fitting. There's plenty of meat on the inside to secure these in place so there's no need to use bulkhead fittings here.
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Discussion Starter #51
On a different note, has anyone had a bad experience with the crank reluctor wheel exploding at high rpm?
 

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Cool Work, will definitively do the same with the an8 Fittings. I hate those Nipple thingys :p
By the way: Do you think, those fit our engine, or willthey only fit the 2.7 Engine?

And last Week I got my lightweight pulley, I ordered dierectly from Alutec Taiwan.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
You know for some reason I thought Alutec was an Australian company, i bet it was cheaper ordering direct from Taiwan.

In not sure on the Fidanza pulleys, it looks like the centre pulley in the photo has the key way like the Beta-II cam pulley. I suspect they are out of stock them as most Fidanza products for the Hyundai have been discontinued.

As an alternative I was looking at the Piper Cam pulley (I'm not 100% sure on fitment though...)

This weekend I've been mocking up the catch can plumbing... I made an aluminium bracket to hold a pair for Chinese Mishimoto catch cans. Even though their not genuine they seem good quality and have the same internal baffle setup as the Mishimotos.

I'm thinking of replacing the PCV barb on the intake manifold with a weld-on AN8 fitting. Then i can use an inline check valve to prevent me pressuring the catch cans.

135555
 

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This looks sooo god! (Y)
If you were able to fit any of those pulleys, please tell us!
I am going to change all my belts in a few months and this would be the perfect time for that.
 
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