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ok guys im pricing around nitrous kits for the tibby and i know this is kinda newbish but this is a whole realm i have yet to explore...lots o' questions and here we go lol...

Ok I'm looking at getting a wet zex kit...I want a direct port but what r ya gonna do

It comes with 55,75,100, and 125 hp jets. I've read up to 50 is safe with a dry kit but whats safe on stock internals with a wet kit? It comes with the bottle, the brackets, bottle gauge, the control box, wiring, switch, jets, all braided hoses, and the fogger. Should I get a warmer? (I live in Florida, the coldest temps we see are high 30s for maybe a couple days in winter). I'm also going to get a purge kit to make sure its running efficiently. My current mods are intake and exhaust. I'm getting headers, a stg 4 IM and an SAFC-II or MAFterburner soon. Will it be ok to run on stock ECU settings? I've decided F my warranty I want to beat up on punks in SRT4s lol...
 

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you could run up to 100 and with a fuelpump and a piggyback, maybe up to 125
 

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i ran 125 wetshot without headers for well over a year , no problems , stock fuelpump, stock injectors, no fuel tuner at all , stock timing , blah blah blah

just get 2 step colder NGK "V" groove plugs and leter rip. i also seen 150 ran the same way but ill say thats pushing it

all in all i ran the wet kit for 2 1/2 years untill going with the supercharger

i had underdrive pulley CAI headers greddy catback spec stage 3 clutch and with the 125 shot i made 314HP and 348 TQ to the ground

go for it you will love it but you have to get a clutch upgrade before to long
 

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spray that ****.
Chase
 

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remember each car is different... there are a lot of people that are skeptical about spraying 100 shot+ on stock internals...it may not blow, but it'll definitely wear the engine down quicker, and you'll need to replace the spark plugs every bottle or two (depending on the size)... Me personally, i think the most i'll do is a 75 shot... I think with i/h/e ims, pulleys, and a tune plus a 75 shot, you';ll be spankin a lot of people already (that's the set-up i'm going for).
 

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viva_brasil said:
remember each car is different... there are a lot of people that are skeptical about spraying 100 shot+ on stock internals...it may not blow, but it'll definitely wear the engine down quicker, and you'll need to replace the spark plugs every bottle or two (depending on the size)... Me personally, i think the most i'll do is a 75 shot... I think with i/h/e ims, pulleys, and a tune plus a 75 shot, you';ll be spankin a lot of people already (that's the set-up i'm going for).
Same here...

Do dyno shops tune for nitrous applications? I would want everything to be on the up-and-up before I sprayed nitrous. Piece of mind goes a long way in my book and a 100+ shot does not sound too safe to me...
 

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Well i sprayed my car alot.................ALOT and i puleed my motor apart not long ago since i got a built block and my block looked great , i had the heads checked so i could sell them and they was perfect.

as long as you run a wet kit anyone will be safe, if i didnt have such traction problems i would have done more than 125 without thinking twice, im 30 years old and have been spraying my cars since i was 18 and never had any problems at all , just do it safe with the wet shot

there was a stock V6 block dyno at 400 to the ground and as long as the airfuels are good i dont see why you cant get close to that on the bottle.

the way i look at it is a turbo or supercharger is constantly putting where on your car all the time and N2O is only when you turn it on.

a motor has a breaking point and as long as you dont surpass that wether it be with N2O , turbo , or SC then your fine.

i will add that i wouldnt go over 125 without a MSD to pull some of the timing back
 

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nextgeneration has a knocksensor/retarder that should work with nitrous. look in that forum. i think the guys using these are running high boost and nitrous.
 

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125 dry shot, and for that bolt on +75 shot post, you still wont be pulling SRT-4s or other cars as the like.
my setup pulls evos from a 30 and up.
its all about the tuning, i have over a G in electronics tuning material alone.
Chase
 

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i got a quick question ... also a newb question since i dont got any experience with nitrous

do you just press a button and a pre-programed amount comes out? or do you have to like control how long you want the spray to last?

always been curious about that
 

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ok ,basically, warm the bottle to pre desired PSI,
purge, leave warmer on.
stage press button, nitrous comes in for how ever long the botton is held, when you let off, the nitrous is killed, the amount of flow is determined by the jet.
CHase
 

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ShrkByt05 said:
ok ,basically, warm the bottle to pre desired PSI,
purge, leave warmer on.
stage press button, nitrous comes in for how ever long the botton is held, when you let off, the nitrous is killed, the amount of flow is determined by the jet.
CHase
yea, you pull out the bottle, and shake it vigorously and then replace. lol, i wouldnt know, i have never run a n2o setup before.
 

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well most kits come with a mechanism that only engages the nitrous at wide open throttle (WOT). So basically you have a switch, when you want nitrous you flip it, and it will only engage when your foot is to the floor (WOT). You can also get a rev range "window" limiter, which will limit at what rpms the nitrous engages. You can also limit it to certain gears.
The push-button engage is very fast and furious like... i don't think you should be running that set-up unless you really know what you're doing since engaging nitrous at anything other than wide open throttle can damage the engine.
The whole bottle heating and purge kit also isn't necessary. purge kits are said to help by clearing out air in the lines, etc. etc. but it's such a minimal effect, and by no means is it "required" to run nitrous.

now for my question: should i run the nitrous before getting a tune? i'll have colder plugs (thinking about getting the ones ZEX sells for nitrous applications) and a wet kit with intake and exhaust. Is a tune necessary to run it *safely*?
Also, how do you physically go about changing a kit from a 55 shot to a 75 shot? i know you change the jets, but how do you actually do that?
 

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viva_brasil said:
well most kits come with a mechanism that only engages the nitrous at wide open throttle (WOT). So basically you have a switch, when you want nitrous you flip it, and it will only engage when your foot is to the floor (WOT). You can also get a rev range "window" limiter, which will limit at what rpms the nitrous engages. You can also limit it to certain gears.
The push-button engage is very fast and furious like... i don't think you should be running that set-up unless you really know what you're doing since engaging nitrous at anything other than wide open throttle can damage the engine.
The whole bottle heating and purge kit also isn't necessary. purge kits are said to help by clearing out air in the lines, etc. etc. but it's such a minimal effect, and by no means is it "required" to run nitrous.

now for my question: should i run the nitrous before getting a tune? i'll have colder plugs (thinking about getting the ones ZEX sells for nitrous applications) and a wet kit with intake and exhaust. Is a tune necessary to run it *safely*?
Also, how do you physically go about changing a kit from a 55 shot to a 75 shot? i know you change the jets, but how do you actually do that?
The jets are in the AN line that connect to the solenoid box. Different combinations of fuel / nitrous jets... net the size shot...

For anyone looking to purchase a nice kit.. you should check out www.dynotunenitrous.com...

I'm getting ready to purchase my kit from them.. A lot of my buddies run their kits over in the LS1 crowd, and it's top notch stuff.
 

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dynotune is VERY good, i would have gone with them if i hav known about it when i bought my NX kit, still NX is the shnit.
im running a DT bottle warmer and it outperformes the NX one by alot.
Chase
 
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