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Re: Brake Pad/Rotor---- 2004 GT front pad issue!

Just did my brakes, fairly easy but had 1 issue. Figured id mention it here. I went with Posi Quiet ceramic pads and the fronts did not fit. I ordered them online from R1 concepts and when trying to put them in, they were a decent size bigger? definetly wouldnt work, despite me calling an them confirming they were the right part # an everything. WEIRD

Checked on there site an theres two options for them
2.7 liter exc 6 speed
2.7 liter 6 speed
^ i dont know the difference or what exc means, but i orded the second one i listed and wasnt for my 04 GT 6 speed :/
So i ended up running to the store an going with Break Best Select Ceramic in the fronts and im gonna return the Posi Quiet Front pads.

If anyone knows anything about that or wants posi quiets MAKE SURE ITS THE RIGHT ONE depending on what exc means...?
I just went through this with Wagner Quiet stop (PN QC1104) from RockAuto. They did NOT put a qualifier (like which trans or trim level) for a 2004 2.7L GT 5MT, front pads.
They were ~5/16" LONGER than the pads I took out.
I double checked what I ordered and it was "correct" from RockAuto.
Since I needed them RIGHT NOW, I bought a different set from a local parts place (for almost twice the cost:frown2:).
They asked which trans I had.
I ended up with Raybestos EHT924H.

Curious, I checked RockAuto and they didn't have those pads listed for a 2004, only 2003 & 2005.:surprise:

I called RockAuto (great customer service by the way....) and explained it to them. They checked what I had done as well as the pads that did work.
They will get back to Raybestos & Wagner about the issue since RA goes by what is submitted to them from each manufacturer.

PS, it wasn't worth shipping the pads back to them, they just gave me a credit.:grin2:

BTW, the "exc" means "except".
 
Re: Brake Pad/Rotor.... issue screwing in rear caliper piston.... FIX

OK, not a Tib (it was a 2009 Mazda 3 with Ford calipers) but very similar to the Tib rears with a screw in piston.

I couldn't get them to screw in (yes, I was pushing). Did a search and found a DIY on a similar year Mazda 3 and they just stated "screw in the piston clockwise" just like us.

What I did was:
1-marked the caliper even with the piston face.
2-unscrewed the piston ~3/4 turn.
3-put a 5/16" ID clear vinyl hose (~1' long) & 10mm box wrench on the bleeder.
4-hose went into an empty drain bottle sitting on a block so the hose was basically horizontal.h
5-opened the bleeder ~1/2 turn and screwed the piston in. This also caused brake fluid to come out the bleeder.
6-snugged up the bleeder, removed hose & wrench, finished assembling the brakes.
7-Done!
8-wished I had tried it 2 hours earlier............:frown2:

BTW, a short spray of silicone spray where the rubber bellows contacts the piston makes the piston spin in the bellows easier. Don't soak it, just a shot so it's wet in one spot.
 
Hey guys just got my tiburon its a 98 fx model and was wondering wats up with the 4 bolts holding on the rotor anybody know bout them i was trying to take off the rotor but ya do i have to take the whole hub off or is there a way around it
 
Can someone fix the pics in the first post for this DIY please ?
Nope, unless you PM the OP (and they reply)....... it's an 8.5+ year old thread, pictures are not permanent........
Likely, the description is enough of a guide......
 
Nope, unless you PM the OP (and they reply)....... it's an 8.5+ year old thread, pictures are not permanent........
Likely, the description is enough of a guide......
Alright well maybe I can get some clarification . In the DIY the OP compressed the piston w/o bleeding the brake however in your previous post you allowed the brake fluid to flow out before compressing . ALSO in some DIY videos state to bleed the fluid to prevent brake fluid going into the master cylinder before compressing while others do not . Does it matter if you do not bleed the brake fluid when you compress the piston to fit the new brake pads ?
 
Alright well maybe I can get some clarification . In the DIY the OP compressed the piston w/o bleeding the brake however in your previous post you allowed the brake fluid to flow out before compressing . ALSO in some DIY videos state to bleed the fluid to prevent brake fluid going into the master cylinder before compressing while others do not . Does it matter if you do not bleed the brake fluid when you compress the piston to fit the new brake pads ?
If you open a brake line or remove the caliper piston, you MUST bleed the brakes.
I usually do a little bleeding at each wheel to get rid of the crud behind the piston (to prevent rust later on).
Opening the bleeder as you compress the piston sorta covers some of this "easy brake bleed" (assuming you haven't opened a line, etc....). It can also make it a little easier to compress the piston (fronts only).
 
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