wondering if it's a bad idea to run reground cams with stock intake manifolds? probably P&P will help, but is stg. 4 IM just considered as a "required" part to install with cams?
wondering if anyone knows from experience... I can guess that it is required/recommended because the manifold needs to move even more air for the cams, but would the stock IM still allow the cams to be effective and worthwhile?
Yup Malogus had cams before stg. 4. He actually said when he added the stg. 4 he made more low end torque and little top end power because of his cam profile.
Cams don't really need any other mods. But if you have a high degree cam its better to have a higher flowing head/IM, just like you don't need headers/exhaust to get an intake
Where do you guys get cams for these cars? I wanna know whats available.
And what are the specs of the current cams?
These are considered mild cams. It was $375 to have a set of stock cams reground by Crower, I found a set of stock cams for $125 so it was a total cost of $500.
No you don't. The cams I have incorporate a separation change into the regrind. No cam sprocket needed. EDIT: I see you meant duration, not separation/overlap. I still found cam gears to be more of a shiny appearance item. Mine has shown minimal results.
Yeah<head smack>ya know.........I really need to look at what I type before I just go sendin it out there:3_usehead .But the gears were just to insure that I dont start setting missfire codes from the lopiness, and yeah are'nt they all shiney and Shyte:3_chubby:
how does the car run after cams any dino specs so i know what cams to get. 370 with 116 sep i bet sound good but will the stock comp handle or even with a neo. will i need a custom comp
I have the same cams as Malogus and my car runs great. It's a little lopey at idle but it's actually very nice sounding. I've had no drivability issues and no CEL at all. Just alot more power.:3_yes:
I beleive the grinds malogus has would be your best bet unless ya wanna do the mods I've done......I had NGM do alot of custom headwork on my motor because of the amount of nitrous and stuff that I'm running. Malogus has a car that is by N/A standards very freekin fast and very dependable everyday daily driver, where as mine I suspect is going to be somewhat of a gas hog when all is said and done, I'm not sure yet , as I'm not done putting it together yet. But , I'm gettin closer
I'm so sorry to bring up a three year old thread...But If i get P&P'd IM's, heads, DC sport headers, Borla exhaust, and Injen intake, all that would cost me 2-4k right? And If i get my cams reground by crower, that's another 550-600. buy cam gears and retard them 4 degrees and buy an AEM F/IC to adjust the AFR, would I touch 210whp with correct tuning? This is my DD. I drive 50 miles a day for school. But the cams shouldn't have an adverse effect on the engine correct? All these mods, done correctly, should yield better mileage and more power correct? I should be able to run mid to high 14s? My car is an 08GT Auto..I have the bankroll to fix up the car in case it damages something but I just want to know that nothing would break down in the future. I have 8k miles on the car right now, I need 80k miles before I do a manual trans/ engine swap and boost it. I just need it to survive 72k miles with the mods I plan on using.
but ill be nice and answer your question... the I/H/E setup should only cost you a little over 1k, and then however much your P&P job is, and the FIC, and cam gears($140) and regrind. you can easily get that price well below 4K. and with a good tune it can be just as reliable as stock. but honestly, i dont think you will be seeing 210whp with just that, but you might see 200 with a great tune.
go look at Deshark and magolus' (if you can find it) old threads and see what kind of work it took for them to reach the 210whp threshold.
Thanks Mo, 200whp is still pretty decent for me. I mean its a good 60whp jump from where I'm at now. For a 2,800lbs car that's good N/A power! But would it damage the engine if it was on there for excessive mileage?
naw. it can be just as reliable as stock with the right tune,
and if you're serious about doing this and you want to keep it when you go FI in the future, you might want to look into getting a valve job as well w/ some stiffer valve springs.
oh yeah and one more thing.. if your saying it has to last another 70k miles cuz you want to keep your warranty till then i have to warn you that your looking at voiding your warranty if you want to do these mods.. just saying..
some dealerships are cool with IHE, and some arent cool.. and i doubt you are going to find a dealership that wont void it with cams. an FIC etc.. good luck with that..
With those mod's kiss the 10/100k goodbye. Anything that alters the internals on the engine auto void the warrenty. I/H/E Only void it if the damage to the engine can be linked to the upgrades.
Yea..I really don't care about the warranty, I just need transportation. plus, how can they verify if you put cams in? If its mild enough you won't notice a difference (sound wise). But if you do notice a problem revert to stock?
You'll be fine, I daily drive my tiburon and have put almost 20k miles on my setup already. As for the warranty, it all depends on your dealership and who you know... I still get warranty at my dealership for certain things, and the mechanics there can barely drive my car... usually I have to bring it onto a lift.
Thanks everyone. I'm super excited for running 13s and theres more to come. Stock clutch is definitely struggling and holding us back. I can feel it slipping off the line and slamming second gear. We should be done in like 2 or 3 weeks with amazing results.
Says deshark
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