[MadMike0101]

I recently had an issue with the car the alternator bearing in the pulley seized but I immediately had the car stopped and pulled into a parking lot cause the lights vame on indicating alternator had stoppwd working (obviously because the belt snapped off from spinning on seized pulley)and inspected it I had I got a towed home and when I inspected everything I found that the pulley was seized the belt had broken and the radiator must have built up pressure due to the water pump not circulating the coolant so it cracks the plastic top of the radiator now the car still ran and started fine so I replaced the alternator the belt and the radiator fresh coolant and all the car ran I burped the air out of the system and when it was done I took the car off the jackstands and I shut the car off I topped up the oil it needed like barley any but i like to keep it on mark at all times lol and topped with the coolant and then I went to start the car again like 5 - 10 minutes later and it will not start just cranks I checked everything in the car so far I'm not getting any spark as far as I can tell from doing a spark test there's no spark going to the ignition coil but I had the fuel pump kicks on and primes you can smell gas up in the front by the plugs when checked so I really don't know what to do i had done research on the matterbI had replaced the crankshaft and camshaft sensors last year and they've been working ever since so I'm not 100% convinced that it's those I have the plugs are good still and new wires and doesn't make sence the car literally ran for half an hour as I was burping air out of the car and then won't start back up I've also tried spraying starter spray into the intake no luck its been about a week now no start I'm wondering what the happened or hopefully it's not an immobilizer issue but I'm thinking if the immobilizer wouldn't let the car crank would it?

Car Details:
2008 Tiburon GS/Sport Package
I4 2.0 4-speec automatic
Canadian Tiburon

Any help or information would be greatly appreciated because I do most of work myself cuz I can't afford to send it to a garage so I'm here troubleshooting everything myself

 

[chase206]

So these are the important facts:

Alternator seized, broke main drive belt & radiator broke. Replaced components but now engine won't fire. Ignition lacks spark. Is a Canadian car so immobilizer may be related.

General info:
Your belt broke so it's possible that one of your engine harnesses was damaged from the belt flopping around in the engine bay. Inspect all your harnesses for damage and peel back the protection to see if the wires show bare copper where the belt may have made contact. If you shorted anything check your SNSR fuse and replace as needed.

Immobilizer info:
The immobilizer can kill spark if it's not active. If the immobilizer isn't working you should have an immobilizer light on your gauge cluster to indicate that. If you have a spare immobilizer key, try the spare key to see if there is any change. Otherwise a common problem with the Immobilizer is a faulty antenna in the ignition switch or the BCM itself. If you want to delete the immobilizer you need a US BCM and ECU from another automatic 07-08 2.0 car. Only caveat is you lose your keyless entry until it can be reprogrammed to match your remote FOBs. Unfortunately for you, having the IMMO reprogrammed with a newer IMMO BCM costs more than a US BCM/ECU so in most cases the Canadian owners do the delete instead.

ECU Info:
With key-on/engine-off condition your CEL indicator should light up. This indicates that the gauge cluster is communicating with your ECU but does not necessarily mean you have a stored DTC. If this light is not active, your ECU is at fault. Replace with 07/08 of same transmission type. Reprogramming the VIN may be required on an 08 ECU so you could try reverting to an earlier automatic ECU from another IMMO enabled 05-06 car. In my testing on IMMO enabled 2.7L cars I found that in 2008 VIN checking was enabled for some reason. This is likely the case for the 2.0 as well.

Sensor info:
Buy OEM sensors only (Or alternatives that we recommend). I'm sure you've seen that several times in your research but even then people still ignore the warning and rush to the local parts store for the cheapest sensor on the shelf. If you can't find an OEM genuine Hyundai sensor we can provide you with an OEM acceptable alternative that is known to work. Don't be afraid to ask before you buy so we can set you straight. If you bought anything other than OEM Hyundai, Siemens or NTK for your crank angle sensor... Throw it out immediately and try again. The crank sensor is a very common problem when lack of spark occurs. Unfortunately local parts store sell junk and rarely stock quality parts we need for our cars. Without a clean crank signal the ECU doesn't know when to fire the ignition coils.

 

[MadMike0101]

So these are the important facts:

Alternator seized, broke main drive belt & radiator broke. Replaced components but now engine won't fire. Ignition lacks spark. Is a Canadian car so immobilizer may be related.

General info:
Your belt broke so it's possible that one of your engine harnesses was damaged from the belt flopping around in the engine bay. Inspect all your harnesses for damage and peel back the protection to see if the wires show bare copper where the belt may have made contact. If you shorted anything check your SNSR fuse and replace as needed.

Immobilizer info:
The immobilizer can kill spark if it's not active. If the immobilizer isn't working you should have an immobilizer light on your gauge cluster to indicate that. If you have a spare immobilizer key, try the spare key to see if there is any change. Otherwise a common problem with the Immobilizer is a faulty antenna in the ignition switch or the BCM itself. If you want to delete the immobilizer you need a US BCM and ECU from another automatic 07-08 2.0 car. Only caveat is you lose your keyless entry until it can be reprogrammed to match your remote FOBs. Unfortunately for you, having the IMMO reprogrammed with a newer IMMO BCM costs more than a US BCM/ECU so in most cases the Canadian owners do the delete instead.

ECU Info:
With key-on/engine-off condition your CEL indicator should light up. This indicates that the gauge cluster is communicating with your ECU but does not necessarily mean you have a stored DTC. If this light is not active, your ECU is at fault. Replace with 07/08 of same transmission type. Reprogramming the VIN may be required on an 08 ECU so you could try reverting to an earlier automatic ECU from another IMMO enabled 05-06 car. In my testing on IMMO enabled 2.7L cars I found that in 2008 VIN checking was enabled for some reason. This is likely the case for the 2.0 as well.

Sensor info:
Buy OEM sensors only (Or alternatives that we recommend). I'm sure you've seen that several times in your research but even then people still ignore the warning and rush to the local parts store for the cheapest sensor on the shelf. If you can't find an OEM genuine Hyundai sensor we can provide you with an OEM acceptable alternative that is known to work. Don't be afraid to ask before you buy so we can set you straight. If you bought anything other than OEM Hyundai, Siemens or NTK for your crank angle sensor... Throw it out immediately and try again. The crank sensor is a very common problem when lack of spark occurs. Unfortunately local parts store sell junk and rarely stock quality parts we need for our cars. Without a clean crank signal the ECU doesn't know when to fire the ignition coils.

Thank you for your quick response im gunna go into more detail I was writing in a hurry earlier.

So I went over all the basics and I checked all my fuses fuses are fine the belt didn't break break it was seized up on the thing so they're on the bearing of the pulley so late it was half torn but by the time that I got out to inspect it and grab it broke in my hand so I didn't flop around or anything in the end of day I don't have any check engine lights I don't think it's a BCM issue and I kind of leaning away from it being an immobilized issue because my windows work there's no light on the dash if everything works everything except starting that's it and as far as I can tell I tried grounding out a spark plug but the wire and I didn't see any Spark but I can smell fuel so I know there's fuel you can hear the fuel pump kick on it I literally had the car running and it was just on a jack stands and I topped up all the fluids dropped it off the jack stands and then it wouldn't start out of nowhere and so far what I've done was I'm going through the car right now with a multimeter checking all of my harnesses checking my sensors and the crank sensors and stuff they seem to be working as far as I can tell they've been working this whole time for almost a year now so it's just weird how something just boom it ran for half an hour try to start a 5 minutes later dead although I had to boost it a few times cuz the battery has been weak so I don't think that's the issue though cuz it was still it was still starting with a jump and I think it would still start with a jump obviously I've tried my other key the other key doesn't work my key fob works everything works the light around the ring and the key doesn't come on anymore but I'm not sure it might have burnt it a long time ago but I'm not sure but strangely enough when I took this off there's a weird wire I got to follow up to see where it goes but it's wrapped around my keyhole It must have been there since I bought the car 3 years ago I don't know what the hell is for but I'll find out too I'm not sure what the hell is going on I'm really lost with this

 

[MadMike0101]

So these are the important facts:

Alternator seized, broke main drive belt & radiator broke. Replaced components but now engine won't fire. Ignition lacks spark. Is a Canadian car so immobilizer may be related.

General info:
Your belt broke so it's possible that one of your engine harnesses was damaged from the belt flopping around in the engine bay. Inspect all your harnesses for damage and peel back the protection to see if the wires show bare copper where the belt may have made contact. If you shorted anything check your SNSR fuse and replace as needed.

Immobilizer info:
The immobilizer can kill spark if it's not active. If the immobilizer isn't working you should have an immobilizer light on your gauge cluster to indicate that. If you have a spare immobilizer key, try the spare key to see if there is any change. Otherwise a common problem with the Immobilizer is a faulty antenna in the ignition switch or the BCM itself. If you want to delete the immobilizer you need a US BCM and ECU from another automatic 07-08 2.0 car. Only caveat is you lose your keyless entry until it can be reprogrammed to match your remote FOBs. Unfortunately for you, having the IMMO reprogrammed with a newer IMMO BCM costs more than a US BCM/ECU so in most cases the Canadian owners do the delete instead.

ECU Info:
With key-on/engine-off condition your CEL indicator should light up. This indicates that the gauge cluster is communicating with your ECU but does not necessarily mean you have a stored DTC. If this light is not active, your ECU is at fault. Replace with 07/08 of same transmission type. Reprogramming the VIN may be required on an 08 ECU so you could try reverting to an earlier automatic ECU from another IMMO enabled 05-06 car. In my testing on IMMO enabled 2.7L cars I found that in 2008 VIN checking was enabled for some reason. This is likely the case for the 2.0 as well.

Sensor info:
Buy OEM sensors only (Or alternatives that we recommend). I'm sure you've seen that several times in your research but even then people still ignore the warning and rush to the local parts store for the cheapest sensor on the shelf. If you can't find an OEM genuine Hyundai sensor we can provide you with an OEM acceptable alternative that is known to work. Don't be afraid to ask before you buy so we can set you straight. If you bought anything other than OEM Hyundai, Siemens or NTK for your crank angle sensor... Throw it out immediately and try again. The crank sensor is a very common problem when lack of spark occurs. Unfortunately local parts store sell junk and rarely stock quality parts we need for our cars. Without a clean crank signal the ECU doesn't know when to fire the ignition coils.

Also I should add that when I replace the components I replaced the radiator replace the alternator and the belt the car was running I ran the car it was running fine I had to burp the air out of the coolant system right and then I shut it off and 5 minutes later wouldn't start up ⤴ also yes when I do when I turn the key on the on position I do have a check the check engine light is on but I tried plugging a code reader to it and it says I have no codes but as far as as lights that are on I have airbag light battery light check engine light and e-brake light that's what it's on when I have the key on the on position but not starting.

 

[The_Evenger]

Could you PLEASE use some punctuation? I can't read that run-on sentence from hell.

 

[chase206]

Something died, fried or became disconnected in the process of burping your coolant system.

Lack of spark is almost always the crank sensor. Nothing else would prevent spark unless all your coils or your ECU coil outputs were toast. If you find that you have no spark across all three coils (check for spark across 2, 4 and 6 since they each share a coil with 1, 3 and 5) then I would run with the assumption your crank angle sensor is at fault.

Did you run the engine long enough to reach operating temperature while idling on jack stands? Do you have tube headers or OEM catafolds? If you have tube headers and you haven't protected your crank angle sensor with either header wrap or a fireproof sleeve, it's likely that the heat soak in the engine bay killed your crank sensor. Heat from headers are a crank angle sensor killer. I hear it all the time from the guys in the Facebook groups that don't wrap their headers or their sensor. They kill sensors every 6 months like clockwork. I took the extra precaution and wrapped my headers AND sleeved my crank angle sensor wires. I managed to squeeze 14 years and 130k miles out of my original sensor. My old original sensor is still good but I changed it out with my last round of major maintenance for peace of mind.

At any point did you disconnect your firewall-to-intake ground or the small ground leading to the ignition coils? Make sure your grounds are solid otherwise you can draw too much current through the smaller grounds via the ECU and it's other sensor grounds. Something to consider while you're tracing out trouble in your harnesses.

 

[MadMike0101]

Something died, fried or became disconnected in the process of burping your coolant system.

Lack of spark is almost always the crank sensor. Nothing else would prevent spark unless all your coils or your ECU coil outputs were toast. If you find that you have no spark across all three coils (check for spark across 2, 4 and 6 since they each share a coil with 1, 3 and 5) then I would run with the assumption your crank angle sensor is at fault.

Did you run the engine long enough to reach operating temperature while idling on jack stands? Do you have tube headers or OEM catafolds? If you have tube headers and you haven't protected your crank angle sensor with either header wrap or a fireproof sleeve, it's likely that the heat soak in the engine bay killed your crank sensor. Heat from headers are a crank angle sensor killer. I hear it all the time from the guys in the Facebook groups that don't wrap their headers or their sensor. They kill sensors every 6 months like clockwork. I took the extra precaution and wrapped my headers AND sleeved my crank angle sensor wires. I managed to squeeze 14 years and 130k miles out of my original sensor. My old original sensor is still good but I changed it out with my last round of major maintenance for peace of mind.

At any point did you disconnect your firewall-to-intake ground or the small ground leading to the ignition coils? Make sure your grounds are solid otherwise you can draw too much current through the smaller grounds via the ECU and it's other sensor grounds. Something to consider while you're tracing out trouble in your harnesses.

My car has 2 litter 4 cyl only 1,2,3,4 and it's stock basically no headers nothing like that and yes when on jack stands u dan the car to temp cause I was burping air from coolant system I had just installed so ran for bout 20 minutes or so I've been checking crank sensors with multimeter seems to work but which is crank and sensor the one by the top cam gear or the one down by transmission?

 

[chase206]

Oh sorry I forget that the 2.0 exists sometimes. The same applies to the 2.0. Test at the very least cyl 1 and 2 to make sure you've lost spark across both coils. I believe the coils are paired 1+4 and 2+3 for wasted spark.

I don't believe you can fully test the crank angle or cam position sensor with a multimeter. For that you need an oscilloscope to read the signal. It is an alternating signal that should look like a sawtooth wave. Example crank signal in blue, example cam signal in red:

The crank angle sensor is down low and the cam position sensor is up high. Due to the wasted spark ignition system that we have, the crank signal is all you need for ignition to work. The cam position sensor only provides TDC for the intake stroke so the ECU can determine when to start sequential injection at cyl #1. If the cam signal is lost it will still fall back to a batch injection mode.

 

[MadMike0101]

Something died, fried or became disconnected in the process of burping your coolant system.

Lack of spark is almost always the crank sensor. Nothing else would prevent spark unless all your coils or your ECU coil outputs were toast. If you find that you have no spark across all three coils (check for spark across 2, 4 and 6 since they each share a coil with 1, 3 and 5) then I would run with the assumption your crank angle sensor is at fault.

Did you run the engine long enough to reach operating temperature while idling on jack stands? Do you have tube headers or OEM catafolds? If you have tube headers and you haven't protected your crank angle sensor with either header wrap or a fireproof sleeve, it's likely that the heat soak in the engine bay killed your crank sensor. Heat from headers are a crank angle sensor killer. I hear it all the time from the guys in the Facebook groups that don't wrap their headers or their sensor. They kill sensors every 6 months like clockwork. I took the extra precaution and wrapped my headers AND sleeved my crank angle sensor wires. I managed to squeeze 14 years and 130k miles out of my original sensor. My old original sensor is still good but I changed it out with my last round of major maintenance for peace of mind.

At any point did you disconnect your firewall-to-intake ground or the small ground leading to the ignition coils? Make sure your grounds are solid otherwise you can draw too much current through the smaller grounds via the ECU and it's other sensor grounds. Something to consider while you're tracing out trouble in your harnesses.

I also don't bieve I disconnected thst ground km not 100% sure where that is either ill have to look up a schematic an check

Oh sorry I forget that the 2.0 exists sometimes. The same applies to the 2.0. Test at the very least cyl 1 and 2 to make sure you've lost spark across both coils. I believe the coils are paired 1+4 and 2+3 for wasted spark.

I don't believe you can fully test the crank angle or cam position sensor with a multimeter. For that you need an oscilloscope to read the signal. It is an alternating signal that should look like a sawtooth wave. Example crank signal in blue, example cam signal in red:

View attachment 139204


The crank angle sensor is down low and the cam position sensor is up high. Due to the wasted spark ignition system that we have, the crank signal is all you need for ignition to work. The cam position sensor only provides TDC for the intake stroke so the ECU can determine when to start sequential injection at cyl #1. If the cam signal is lost it will still fall back to a batch injection mode.

Ok I wasnt sure the difference between the two and there relation to starting. Today I took my volt meter with key forward, and tested the harnesses leading to cam and crankshaft sensors . As far as I can tell they're fine reads show 12.6V or whatever on power and something like between 4.5 and 5 volts to signal and ground is good i checked resistance between the pins on the sensors I forget what it read but it seemed fine as well ohms, also checked coil pack harness volts are fine going to the harnesses. It's very hard to work on for long because it's getting colder n colder and dark around 430 or 5pm here and like between -10°C(14°F) and -15°C(5°F) outside i freeze trting to do anything i envy those with a garage .I'm going going double check if I'm getting spark 100 % tomorrow and also may be taking timing lowercase off make sure 100% timings not messed up i had the upper cover off tk examine for any visual damages or issues belts fine tensioner looks good but looks can be deceiving I replaced the whole deal last year tensioner, belt, water pump and just for the hell of it both crank and cam sensors all just for maintenance there was knmy a P03 something code cant remember l. A lot of things are new on this car I went kinda replacement trigger happy and bought new whatever beings I got the car second hand 3 years ago, I knew if i was going to keep it, it'd be good to do routine maintence to the car so I know when and how everything went on.

 

[MadMike0101]

⁰

Can someone confirm that my assumption is correct. I believe these are the timing marks and I believe the crankshaft is off a few teeth? Are these the correct timing marks? I changed the belt, tensioner, water pump and pulley not even 30K km ago could it possibly be because the car was running while jacked up or the alternator seizing cause it to dandoy jump? The belt is fine, good Shape.

 

[Charlie-III]

Timing marks on the belt only line up on install......it will take MANY crank revolutions to have them line up again.
Looks like the crank mark is off a tooth since I "believe" the mark is on the rear cover a tooth clockwise in the picture.
It's possible you were on the ragged edge of correct timing, but now you're not. I will say a tooth or 2 off will usually let it start and run, but crappy.

 

[MadMike0101]

Timing marks on the belt only line up on install......it will take MANY crank revolutions to have them line up again.
Looks like the crank mark is off a tooth since I "believe" the mark is on the rear cover a tooth clockwise in the picture.
It's possible you were on the ragged edge of correct timing, but now you're not. I will say a tooth or 2 off will usually let it start and run, but crappy.

There the white dot is the timing mark i made when i nstalled i just forgot where the timing marks was on the engine block for the crank the top is marked too but it's the only issue I've found so far. So im going to correct it and attempt a start i also for the hell of it took my battery back for free replacement under warrenty and got a brand new one I've tested all my sensors an they all check out with volt meter and I have learned thst the immo in this car has been overridden already there is a bypass kit in this car the security light has never showed up in the car for the 3 years I've had it. Also noticed the box to the bypass module that's how I figured out its overridden. So I'm gunna re do the timing and see what happens i guess I'm lost at what else it'd be.

 

[MadMike0101]

Timing marks on the belt only line up on install......it will take MANY crank revolutions to have them line up again.
Looks like the crank mark is off a tooth since I "believe" the mark is on the rear cover a tooth clockwise in the picture.
It's possible you were on the ragged edge of correct timing, but now you're not. I will say a tooth or 2 off will usually let it start and run, but crappy.

Also in the photo is the rear cover still over it I didn't notice any marks on it

 

[Charlie-III]

Also in the photo is the rear cover still over it I didn't notice any marks on it

To the left of the right green arrow, looks like a lump on the cover that may be the timing mark. Maybe it's just oily dirt.

 

[MadMike0101]

To the left of the right green arrow, looks like a lump on the cover that may be the timing mark. Maybe it's just oily dirt.

Its running so far I don't know if it's going to do it again but I re-adjusted timing and bolted everything back to spec and the car started I drove it around s for about am hour it seems alright but fingers crossed

 

[MadMike0101]

Car ran good all night came home turned it off and now sounds like it's off time again somethings going on in there I'm assuming it's either belt stretched which I'm told they don't stretch like normal belts they just break or idler or tensioner but they feel and look and sound fine when I had then off in my hands I'm fighting a never ending battle I think lol

 

[chase206]

I believe the 2.0 has a manual tensioner rather than an automatic tensioner. Make sure it's tight per the spec on the service manual.

DIY: - 2.0L Timing Belt Replacement.

Disclaimer: You don't want to do this. If it's your first time you should know that it will take ten hours of fiddly work, and that paying someone to do this means you don't have to worry about blowing something up when you drive your car. But you're stubborn and motivated and going to do it...

www.newtiburon.com

Install the new pulleys where the old ones were. First the idler pulley, and second the tensioning pulley. Tension can be set by using an Allen wrench to hold the pulley in a rotated position while tightening the main bolt. The angle will be similar to the previously set angle, but not necessarily the same. By the numbers: You want to lock down the tensioner to the block with 35-40 foot-pounds, and you want the belt to be tight enough that it flexes 1/8" to 1/4" when you pull on it with 5 pounds of force.

If your belt is skipping time you need to find out why. If you haven't replaced the whole timing belt and water pump loop in a while, it may be time to do it again with a complete Gates or Aisin kit:

More Information for GATES TCKWP284

www.rockauto.com

More Information for AISIN TKK002

www.rockauto.com

 

[MadMike0101]

I believe the 2.0 has a manual tensioner rather than an automatic tensioner. Make sure it's tight per the spec on the service manual.

DIY: - 2.0L Timing Belt Replacement.

Disclaimer: You don't want to do this. If it's your first time you should know that it will take ten hours of fiddly work, and that paying someone to do this means you don't have to worry about blowing something up when you drive your car. But you're stubborn and motivated and going to do it...

www.newtiburon.com

If your belt is skipping time you need to find out why. If you haven't replaced the whole timing belt and water pump loop in a while, it may be time to do it again with a complete Gates or Aisin kit:

More Information for GATES TCKWP284

www.rockauto.com

More Information for AISIN TKK002

www.rockauto.com

I installed timing belt, water pump, idler pulley and tensioner and all the accessories belts in one kit like 35,000 - 40,000km ago its guaranteed for 125,000km warrenty is a DAYCO kit I've been fighting with it for the past few days I think a serious issue issue is going on which might take time so I'm thinking on just filing warrenty getting a whole new kit bit prob have to wait 2 weeks for it tk come gotta send the current kit back first leaving me with nothing; stupid, to install once I figure out what I'm gunna do with this ffs I don't wanna get into putting helicoils and **** if you know what rhat is gjen you'll know what's going on lol.

 

[chase206]

Your first mistake was trusting Dayco. Your interval is and always will be 60k miles (or 100k kilometers) and not a centimeter more. The 2.0 might be more forgiving with odd brands but we always have recommend either the Gates or Aisin kit due to quality problems with other brands. We've been preaching this for 20 years now. I think your best bet is to eat the $90 USD on a proper Gates kit for peace of mind.

If you have to helicoil it then make sure it's done right. helicoils are stronger than the original base material anyway so that's not necessarily a bad thing. Good luck!

 

[Charlie-III]

Ummmm......timing belts have a miles AND a time limit. It can only have a few hundred miles but 10 years and fail.