[MadMike0101]

Your first mistake was trusting Dayco. Your interval is and always will be 60k miles (or 100k kilometers) and not a centimeter more. The 2.0 might be more forgiving with odd brands but we always have recommend either the Gates or Aisin kit due to quality problems with other brands. We've been preaching this for 20 years now. I think your best bet is to eat the $90 USD on a proper Gates kit for peace of mind.

If you have to helicoil it then make sure it's done right. helicoils are stronger than the original base material anyway so that's not necessarily a bad thing. Good luck!

Well I'm way under the mileage I may have put 40,000km on the timing equipment I only mentioned the 125,000km because that's what the warrenty that Dayco offers is but now the car has a whole new issue I'm so tired lol changed alternstor changed belts changed rad fought for few weeks with the timing now i think the bypass security thing I have In it is having issues maybe to do with moisture or water from it being cols and thawing but the little security symbol sometimes doesn't light up and it won't start then after i try a few times the light flashes car starts lol f*** sakes chasing kne problem after another with this thing. But ya I'm about 20,000kms under the change interval for timing equipment .

 

[MadMike0101]

Well I'm way under the mileage I may have put 40,000km on the timing equipment I only mentioned the 125,000km because that's what the warrenty that Dayco offers is but now the car has a whole new issue I'm so tired lol changed alternstor changed belts changed rad fought for few weeks with the timing now i think the bypass security thing I have In it is having issues maybe to do with moisture or water from it being cols and thawing but the little security symbol sometimes doesn't light up and it won't start then after i try a few times the light flashes car starts lol f*** sakes chasing kne problem after another with this thing. But ya I'm about 20,000kms under the change interval for timing equipment .

Scratch that I'm 60,000km under the change interval

 

[MadMike0101]

I'm having an issue now with the key ring light not turning on and the security light doesn't come on to the car is not recognizing s*** anymore it's probably because it's cold and sitting but maybe somebody could explain what the hell all this crap is under my Dash I didn't install any of this it came in the car when I bought it but intermittently I can get it to turn on it because the light will come on and it'll start but then sometimes it won't most times it won't now I guess but I've been fighting so many f** things with this car just wonder if somebody could explain what the hell is crap is that I see under the dash(pictures below)

 

[bonecb9]

It’s an aftermarket car alarm. http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/QG/Autostart/AS-1755v_qg_us_h460s250v100_080418.pdf

 

[chase206]

Dayco is junk. Don't defend your poor purchase. If it's skipping time get it done right with Gates or Aisin kit.

I'm not familiar with that security box. I don't see why you need one since the OEM function of a Canadian BCM already has an immobilizer built into it. Download the install manual and follow the wiring diagrams backwards to bypass it.

 

[The_Evenger]

Yeah, I would remove that security system if you think it might be causing issues, at least until you sort everything out.

I would assume the only wire you'll need to fix is an ignition or starter wire, as they usually cut one of those & run them through a relay so the security system can cut them. other than that, you should be able to just unplug the thing & go. Otherwise you can unplug the module & jump the starter kill relay load-side pins for testing purposes.

 

[MadMike0101]

Dayco is junk. Don't defend your poor purchase. If it's skipping time get it done right with Gates or Aisin kit.

I'm not familiar with that security box. I don't see why you need one since the OEM function of a Canadian BCM already has an immobilizer built into it. Download the install manual and follow the wiring diagrams backwards to bypass it.

Yeah, I would remove that security system if you think it might be causing issues, at least until you sort everything out.

I would assume the only wire you'll need to fix is an ignition or starter wire, as they usually cut one of those & run them through a relay so the security system can cut them. other than that, you should be able to just unplug the thing & go. Otherwise you can unplug the module & jump the starter kill relay load-side pins for testing purposes.

Car cranks but won't start, I paid close attention to the dash and multiple times it would not start but no light was coming up and then once I turn the key to start it and then I seen the little key shaped like flash in the car started that's what leads me to under the dash and chasing wires and I think the box is for a remote start which It did come with a remote starter but the key fob broke like 2 years ago so I just never bothered getting a new one just didn't need an auto start so i said screw it left jt as is, but I don't know what is causing the issue I really don't know the only things I've noticed when the car did start and I drove it the temperature display flickers on and off sometimes and half of the odometer mileage light flickers on and off sometimes and but most times it won't start at all. I'm almost done with this car I have removed the ignition lock tumbler and the antenna wire the battery is disconnected whe I'm doing all this , I'm am inspecting all the wires all the equipment plugins I'm almost ready to pull out the BCM to see if anything's messed up with that but I don't know. As far as the little auto start box I removed that unplugged it and inspected it inside there's a transponder chip so I'm assuming that transponder chip was programmed to the car I don't think that's going to cause me any issues but I don't really know I'm kind of lost now. But most times now when I turn the key the indicator light does not come up at all and the car won't start. (Latest pictures of stuff i removed for inspection below)

 

[MadMike0101]

Removed BCM for inspection and came across some corrosion, now i know no corrosion is ever good but wondering if its enough to mess up things the way it is, wondering if this is my issue does anyone know what runs through CONNECTER BCM HM? (Pictures provided)

 

[Charlie-III]

I don't know, most of my reference notes are at a different place. I will say, you likely have a sunroof with clogged drains, thus it runs down the A pillar and under the dash. Check and clean all 4 drains, has been covered numerous times here. Actually looks like a new post just up for the same issue.

 

[The_Evenger]

Looks like the most corroded pins are:
IMMO ANTENNA 2
EXPORT GND
T/SIG LEFT SW

Any corrosion is bad, personally, I would pull the BCM apart & get a look at the PCB. you might be able to get away with just cleaning the pins, but I'd want to check the full extent of the damage. the immobilizer antenna definitely would be enough to create a no-start.

 

[Charlie-III]

Looks like the most corroded pins are:
IMMO ANTENNA 2
EXPORT GND
T/SIG LEFT SW

Any corrosion is bad, personally, I would pull the BCM apart & get a look at the PCB. you might be able to get away with just cleaning the pins, but I'd want to check the full extent of the damage. the immobilizer antenna definitely would be enough to create a no-start.
View attachment 139272

Also clean off any of the blue/green power you see, that's copper sulfate which can be electrically conductive, AKA...short circuit.

 

[MadMike0101]

Looks like the most corroded pins are:
IMMO ANTENNA 2
EXPORT GND
T/SIG LEFT SW

Any corrosion is bad, personally, I would pull the BCM apart & get a look at the PCB. you might be able to get away with just cleaning the pins, but I'd want to check the full extent of the damage. the immobilizer antenna definitely would be enough to create a no-start.
View attachment 139272

View attachment 139272
[/QUOTE]
I did clean up the pins and whatever i could without causing damage I had the board completely disassembled out of the car the corrosion wasn't too bad on the board it was just all over the pins so I used veryy high get sand paper and cleaned them with contact and electric cleaner all nice an Shiney lol but put it back together and now my key fob doesn't work anymore tried the relearn thing pushing both buttons etc in acc mode nothing so what I'm assuming is since only things I've done were cleaned bcm and removed the aftermarket keyless entry/alarm/autostart system* (all one unit by the way) I'm thinking the fob was programmed to it whenever pervious owner Installed it thus also would explain why my key works in ignition but not in doors or try m because they changed out the lock n key so they could install this bypass module rhag clmes with auto start so twi transponders wouldn't be present in the vehicle cause the system says no keys required. Autostart isn't factory I know that but I have been re wiring an installing the autostart to see if the fob starts working again then I'll know more about its been a mess cads not been driven in a mo th or so I purchased a cheap winter car for now and it's a motor I really don't like but the price and mile!ge was too good it'll get me around for now tell the tiburon lives again.

BTW if you want more detail on the auto start thing it says it's a Forin AS-1755 and the bypass thing it comes with is a PATS KIA 1 Transponder bypass for autostart

 

[MadMike0101]

I don't know, most of my reference notes are at a different place. I will say, you likely have a sunroof with clogged drains, thus it runs down the A pillar and under the dash. Check and clean all 4 drains, has been covered numerous times here. Actually looks like a new post just up for the same issue.

I'm going to check that out soon as it unfreezes in the sunlight lol I don't like tampering with too much when it's in the cold cold weather everything gets so brittle and breaks and knowing me ill end up braking something. we're having f***** up weather where I am going from 8°C/Day -2°C/Night for few says then -8°C/Day -16°C/Night and it's not helping the car at all where i don't have a garage to keep it in car keeps thawing out an freezing every day lol I try and go out and clean up whatever I can during daylight in the sub like dry it all up and keep dehumidifier packages kr whatever in there but it definitely don't help the cars situation at all.

 

[MadMike0101]

I'm going to check that out soon as it unfreezes in the sunlight lol I don't like tampering with too much when it's in the cold cold weather everything gets so brittle and breaks and knowing me ill end up braking something. we're having f***** up weather where I am going from 8°C/Day -2°C/Night for few says then -8°C/Day -16°C/Night and it's not helping the car at all where i don't have a garage to keep it in car keeps thawing out an freezing every day lol I try and go out and clean up whatever I can during daylight in the sub like dry it all up and keep dehumidifier packages kr whatever in there but it definitely don't help the cars situation at all.

The moisture is bad in the back window for sure and even the back seats get damp an wet and also the floor and by the steering column the worst. Car hasn't ran for a month its that bad the floormats wre froze to the damn floor haha , so maybe you're right could be the drainage up there ill check it out.