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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
k... i'm doing some maintenance to eliminate cause of these codes, symptoms are rough idle and lean condition.

known issues. Slow fill condition, likely purge canister issue related, going to dump out some charcoal and clear any plugged EVAP lines, check the vent valve/solenoid as soon as my mechanic can let me use his lift one of these weekends.

scan tool is showing LTFT 25% both banks. STFTs are favoring slightly lean at 0-6%, o2s b1s1 voltage reading looks ok on the scan tool. o2s b2s1 flat lines and jumps every now and then. definitely going to clean/replace that one WITH A FACTORY O2 Sensor, not going to chance it with a 3rd party.

CHECKED & CLEANED: MAF, IAC

CHECK, CLEAN REPLACING TODAY: air filter, CAI intake tubing, TPS and o2sb2s1 today.

found two unrelated issues and need some help with identification.:nerd2:

what does the harness plug with the green trim near the thermostat housing connect to?
the receptacle housing is cracked and needs replaced.

what is the ground wire for that terminates on the plate next to the coil pack? my insulation is burned off and the copper is exposed on the entire run up to the loom wrap.



resized and compressed pics but drag and drop kept kicking it back.. :surprise:


thanks in advance for any prompt help here!
 

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Green trimmed connector looks like the cam sensor wire on the rear head.
The coilpack ground is just that. If it's toasted, check the big ground braid on the passengers rear of the UIM to firewall. Must be clean connection & snugged up hardware.

Your LTFT's are maxed out, your car is not happy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
thanks chuck! i'm even more unhappy than my car.. it going thru fuel like water right now.doesn't smell rich though

yes green trim connector traces back to bank 1 sensor. does the cam sensor have a pigtail on it? splice a new connector on in lieu of removing entire sensor or is there an intermediary connection here? like a dongle of some sort.



TPS reads 4.7% at idle.. does that sound right?
MAF is reading .01 lb/s at idle. any idea of what the spec range is for the MAF


i'm pretty sure there are no vaccum leaks up top. i can't be for sure on bank 2 headers until i get on the lift and/or can smoke test. i'm at 141,800 original owners miles.. lets take it 250k! :)

did find a cracked housing on my IAC and you can hear a loud hum in KOEO. could this be my rough idle? i'm on a real
tight budget, need to get every last mile out of these sensors after starting the year out with suspension overhaul, that
ended up including replacing valve covers gasket and radiator.

on the coil pack ground wire its been toasted for some years .. this condition existed before the last time i checked and cleaned the main ground. any idea whats involved in replacing the ground lead for the coil pack?
 

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I can't tell if it's a pigtail or part of the sensor. Car is out right now. You could look up the part on RockAuto to check.

TPS usually does not read "0" at rest or 100% at full. Yours looks OK as a value.

Coilpack ground, pretty much any stranded copper wire ~18ga or heavier (lower ga #) would work with ring terminals on it. If the main ground is OK and you don't have misfires, I wouldn't worry right now.

Working on strut replacement ('99 Subaru Impreza) right now, so no time to look up MAF values.
 

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The green cracked connector is attached TO the CPS, there's about 3-4 inches of wire between the sensor itself and the connector. So replacing the CPS would replace the cracked connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Cy, it kinda looks like the bank 2 knock sensor based on dealer diagrams... but you may, in fact, be correct.



i'm seeing about $55ish from lakeland, fl hyundai online. i need to finish my list and PM @lowsonoma for the real deal!

CANT POST LINKS YET but exploded diagrams are always nice along with man off the street dealer prices! :nerd2:

i'm running out of daylight and gotta get her ready to drive .. so its slam it back together and get ready for another week of zhitty idle and bad gas mileage.. theres a reality tv show for ya! :grin2:

thanks again... we'll pickup were we left off next weekend!:dance_bandwagon: have a good one!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The green cracked connector is attached TO the CPS, there's about 3-4 inches of wire between the sensor itself and the connector. So replacing the CPS would replace the cracked connector.
i'm going to say camshaft position sensor.. its up near valve covers.
thanks for the help again Cy!

the knock sensor would be lower on the block
 

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You may find this video of interest for fuel trims since you have access to a scanner...

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Trouble Code: P01166


HO2S-11 Controller Adaptive Test (Bank 1)

Possible Causes:

0
Air leaks after the MAF sensor, or in the EGR or PCV system (no obvious leaks short of smoke test, pcv checked and cleaned

Base engine "mechanical" fault affecting one or more cylinders
( i am WAY overdue for a timing belt replacement... i prolly got 80k on this one ...seriously and im not proud of that either)
Exhaust leaks located in front of the A/FS or HO2S location

Fuel control sensor is out of calibration (i.e., ECT, IAT or MAP) this is my next step I suppose.

Fuel delivery system supplying too little fuel during cruise or idle periods (e.g., faulty fuel pump or dirty, restricted fuel filter)

Fuel injector (one or more) dirty or pressure regulator has failed
bank 2 always lean based on o2s response (sits mostly at 6 drops to 3 rarely).
bank 1 STFT is functional still somewhat lean ranging -3-+6)
STFTs will max out sometimes.. banks independently shoot up and hover around max then return to "current operating range"
after short period of time. ECM signals sometime disappear from display .. ive seen fuel sys 2 disappear from display and only
bank one appears. bank 2 goes open loop drive often.


HO2S is contaminated, deteriorated or it has failed

Vehicle driven low on fuel or until it ran out of fuel



Trouble Code: P01167


HO2S-11 Controller Adaptive Test (Bank 2)

Possible Causes:


Air leaks after the MAF sensor, or in the EGR or PCV system

Base engine "mechanical" fault affecting one or more cylinders

Exhaust leaks located in front of the A/FS or HO2S location

Fuel control sensor is out of calibration (i.e., ECT, IAT or MAP)

Fuel delivery system supplying too little fuel during cruise or idle periods (e.g., faulty fuel pump or dirty, restricted fuel filter)

Fuel injector (one or more) dirty or pressure regulator has failed

HO2S is contaminated, deteriorated or it has failed

Vehicle driven low on fuel or until it ran out of fuel



both identical in possible causes... yes i did run it on fumes more than a few times. i'm not going to deny that
but this definitely tells me i need to check iat, maf and ect being in calibration... whats the easiest way to test the pressure
regulator and fuel pump?


definitely sounds like o2s b2s1 is on its death bed.
fuel delivery issues scare me and i need to be prepared to tackle it if necessary when i move to fix slow fill situation
 

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STFT's are just that, "Short Term", they can jump when you punch the gas or lift off real fast. It's the LTFT's that really give an idea what is going on.

Granted, a "moving STFT" gives a little indication if the O2 sensor is reading something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
STFT's are just that, "Short Term", they can jump when you punch the gas or lift off real fast. It's the LTFT's that really give an idea what is going on.

Granted, a "moving STFT" gives a little indication if the O2 sensor is reading something.
shouldn't the STFT be oscillating? slightly negative slighty positive? indicating is regulating the open time of the fuel injectors?
i recall that the LTFT is supposed to keep the STFT as close to zero as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
i reset the pcm in the process of working on the car sunday, my ltft is at 0. the stft are basically maxed at 31.3. all o2s are at .035 or something like that.. not really moving at all now. stft does drop to 0 and then go back to 31, seems like when i let of the gas, kinda intermittent so i'm not positive.

i tested my purge control with a 9v battery and its opening and closing... gotta put a vacuum on it to make sure its sealing. i read
that you can check the evap system for leaks by pinching off the line to the manifold and watching the STFT to see if it corrects. anyone agree here?

i did have one failure on my obd test modules.. (test $05, ID 09, Mod $11) i believe this is o2 related and has to do with tracking how many times its switched from lean to rich. can anyone confirm?

also, my camshaft sensor did finally throw a code for a minute p340.

p1166 came back as well.

waiting for my mechanic to borrow his friends smoke machine to look for vacuum leaks, before doing anything else.
 

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Have you tried pulling the plug on your maf to let it run on substituted values to see what happens to your stft?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
not yet... MAF is producing values that do respond to throttle, however i'm not sure what the range is... it starts at .01 lb/s with tps at 4.7% idle load is around 18-20% at 800rpm

i am on my second MAF sensor.. i'll give it a shot and see if it makes a difference. i'm pretty convinced i have a vacuum leak somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
good call! values seemed more elevated with the maf disconnected and the fuel trims axctually went negative under throttle. load was not calculated i guess due to maf being disconnected .. however trims were still +31.3 at idle... small vacuum leak somewhere.. and a bad maf.

what kind of voltages should the b#s2 o2s read.. i was actually getting a spread where they were all the same before with the maf plugged in... and i cleaned the bejesus out of it twice... soaked it good with MAF cleaner... however,, i havent cleaned the inside of the intake tube or CAI filter... couldn't get to it with other crap going on. not sure if contamination is going to foul the sensor and cause these problems. this MAF was a remanufactured from cardone via autozone... kicking myself for not paaying the extra 20-25$ and getting the new duralast with the lifetime warranty. but i did get about 4 years of life out of it
 

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shouldn't the STFT be oscillating? slightly negative slighty positive? indicating is regulating the open time of the fuel injectors?
i recall that the LTFT is supposed to keep the STFT as close to zero as possible.
Yes, typically STFT's wander a bit. Example would be to watch "realtime data", bring the revs up to ~3000RPM and drop off the throttle back to "0". Trims should wander as rev's build, then jump a bit when you slam the throttle closed.
Same would happen if you went from idle and stomped the gas to a higher engine speed.

Ideally (assuming parts are working correctly & no leaks or bad gas), LTFT's should stay within +/- 8%, outside that may indicate a developing issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
so i sourced a camshaft position sensor which is called the TDC (top dead center) sensor at autozone. lifetime replacement for $65.

two more damaged connectors (engine mgmt related i think) nearby, one is blue and the other grey... both with cracked housing as well... prolly heat related degredation over the years. any ideas where those go to?

is there a camshaft sensor replacement DIY on here? didnt find one readily.. gonna look again... any links would be appreciated?

no smoke test this weekend, maybe next. getting 20 mpg with stft's pegged. got both 1166 and 1167 back this week. ltft's still never moved off of zero.
 

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Wierd about the ltft. Are you able to collect and post the freeze frame data associated with the codes?

Cam sensor procedure should be something like: remove bolt, twist and pull, clean area and lube new, push in, lastly install bolt. Kinda like many crank sensors just different location. For the i4's anyway, I think the 6's are similar but someone else would need to confirm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
ya.. i'm thinking its not going to hurt to replace the o2s's upstream on both banks at 142k OEMs..

i;ve got software to extract and data from the scanner.. haven't tried it yet. but i went thru plenty of cycles to figure it would have adjusted the ltft's ... never did since i did the wipe last week. (btw, i wiped them again earlier today, now that i think of it... but it would have been at startup when they stored) i'll post next time i get them showing. i've checked and tightened everything obvious on vacuum lines that are readily visible. even chased the line for the evap to the firewall.


tight fight in the area of the cam sensor.. will have to give it a better look over once i have some downtime.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
replaced the MAF sensor just now..

MAF sensor was definitely sluggish and not responding accurately, in comparison to the new scan data.
load at idle is slightly lower around 18% where it seemed pegged at 20.8.. air flow is much quicker in ramping speed.

stft fuel trims are now acting normal-ish (+5 to - 4 steady oscillating) and looking better..... definitely was an issue fixed.

gonna wait to see on the `1167 1166 codes popping back up... based on 02 data i'm getting now, doesn't look like its coming back.. chalked it up to another bad MAF

points to REKO:thumbup: REP +1

think i'll for go the smoke test and concentrate on fixing my slow fill next... and squeeze the cam sensor replacement in there soon.. lol
 
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