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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've been having some transmission problems, ones that I would think would more have to do with a Hydrolic problem, opposed to the clutch itself. The main problem is that sometimes when I'm idle with the clutch all the way to the floor, the car will still move, and sometimes I have a hard time getting it out of gear (never into gear).

When I took it to the dealer to get checked out, they told me it was the clutch, and nothing else. I'm not sure if this is possible or if they are just trying to dodge warranty work.

Regaurdless the car has 40,000 miles on it, and was owned by a woman in her late 50's before me, so the clutch is getting a little weak and I'd like to replace it.

I was looking at a ClutchMaster Stage 2 or 3 (I do like having a fairly smooth engage still, but I would like something that had a little more performance capablity on it as I want to do some other mods).

I am not sure if I need a new flywheel or not. The dealer when they quoted me a price (of $2020) they quoted it with the flywheel saying that normally when a clutch goes bad so does the stock flywheel. I don't know if I believe this or not. My big concern with the flywheel is that I have a 2003, with a manufacture date of Feb 2002, and I don't want to deal with the fit problems of the Fidanza flywheels. Is there flywheel which I wouldn't have to deal with this, and will be guaranteed a correct fit?

Also, is there any other clutch that anyone would recommend that compares to the clutchmasters, but in a more reasonable price range? (I'm sure most anything would be superior to OEM).
 

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With an 02 date, yours may very well be an HY3. The stock flywheel is a dual mass, and I think around $800. I bought the Fidanza and the CM stage 4 clutch for $836. The stock flywheel does not have a replaceable friction plate, Fidanza does. This explains why most of us get the lightweight flywheel, not just because of the performance benefits, but also the economic value. Ultrarev told me when I bought my HY5, that if my 02/12/03 tib needed a HY3, they would exchange it. If you have the Fidanza installed, the next time you need a clutch done, you just replace the friction plate on the aluminum flywheel and buy a clutch, not the entire setup. Give Ultrarev a call.
 

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How smooth is the engage on the stage 4?
1st grabs and you have to learn how to engage it. There's no drifiting in and out of gear like an oem clutch. If you're stock, a stage 2 may be best, and some get a stage 3. I wouldn't get a stage 4 unless you're FI. Othe than the sudden grab in the other gears, it has shifted smoother (less notchy) than the oem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm going to do some performance mods eventually, Exhaust, Intake, possibly headers, possibly SC.. Depends how money comes in over the summer. Does anyone have an idea how aggressive the S3 is, I've only ever driven stock clutches, so I would probably do a number on the S4..
 

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in the finaly stages of my clutch failing, i couldn't shift into first or reverse unless the car was off. So i would put it in the gear i needed before starting, and when i started the car with the clutch mashed to the ground it would role in either direction as you described. Does it make a high pitch humming noise if you hold the clutch and brake in at the same time while your in gear? And to clear up the other question usualy when your clutch goes it shredds up your flywheel also. The mech said my throwout bearing (bad spelling maybe?) pretty much destoyed the clutch and fw and was the cause of the high pitch humming noise. Whatever you do just order from ultrarev as they are good about taking stuff back if it doesn't fit!
 
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