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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, for some reason the clutch is not disengaging all the way, i think thats the problem i have with notchy shifting. if i have the clutch pushed in to the floor, and the car is in gear, and i rev the engine, the car jolts forward a few inches. any suggestions?
 

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try bleeding your clutch, but check your fluid first. also your slave cylinder or clutch master could also be going out. all three of those will cause your problems you have. bleed first, if the problem persist then replace the slave AND master at the same time.
 

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well i heard people say that tibs have bad manual transmissions on certain years. your clutch shouldnt need that much adjusting , to where it doesnt disengage one day. but its worth a try to adjust it some. how many miles on your clutch?
 

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phlash said:
there is no adjustment on the 6 spd

I still think it's a clutch issue, but there should still be a pedal adjustment as on the 5spd. Here's the trouble-shoot guide for both.

Clutch pedal free play 6-13 mm (0.24-0.52 in.)
Clutch pedal height 166.9 mm (6.676 in.)
Clutch pedal stroke 2.0L : 145 mm (5.7 in.)
2.7L : 152 mm (6.1 in.)

TROUBLESHOOTING

Clutch slipping

Car will not respond to engine speed during acceleration
Insufficient vehicle speed
Lack of power during uphill driving
Insufficient clutch pedal free play
Clogged hydraulic system
Excessive wear of clutch disc facing
Hardened clutch disc facing, or oil on surface
Damaged pressure plate or flywheel
Weak or broken pressure spring
Adjust
Correct or replace parts
Replace
Replace
Replace
Replace

Difficult gear shifting (gear noise during shifting)
Excessive pedal free play
Hydraulic system fluid leaks, air trapping or clogging
Unusual wear or corrosion of clutch disc spline
Excessive vibration (distortion) of clutch disc
Adjust
Repair or replace parts
Replace
Replace

Clutch noisy
When clutch is not used
Insufficient play of clutch pedal
Adjust

Excessive wear of clutch disc facing
Replace

A noise is heard after clutch is disengaged
Unusual wear and/or damage of release bearing
Replace

A noise is heard after clutch is disengaged
Insuffcient grease on the sliding surface of bearing sleeve
Repair

Improperly installed clutch assembly or bearing
Repair

A noise is heard after clutch is disengaged
Damaged pilot bushing
Replace

Difficult to depress clutch pedal
Insufficient lubrication of clutch pedal
Repair

Insufficient lubrication of the clutch disc spline
Repair

Insufficient lubrication of the clutch release lever shaft
Repair

Insufficient lubrication of front bearing retainer
Repair

Difficult to shift gear or cannot shift at all
Excessive clutch pedal free play excessive
Clutch release cylinder faulty
Clutch disc out of true, runout is excessive or lining broken
Spline on input shaft or clutch disc dirty or burred
Clutch pressure plate faulty
Adjust pedal free play
Repair release cylinder
Inspect clutch disc
Repair as necessary
Replace clutch cover

Clutch slips
Clutch pedal free play insufficient
Clogged hydraulic system
Clutch disc lining oily or worn out
Pressure plate faulty
Release fork binding
Adjust pedal free play
Repair or replace parts
Inspect clutch disc
Replace clutch cover
Inspect release fork

Clutch grabs/chatters
Clutch disc lining oily or worn out
Pressure plate faulty
Clutch diaphragm spring bent
Worn or broken torsion spring
Engine mounts loose
Inspect clutch disc
Replace clutch cover
Replace clutch cover
Replace clutch disc
Repair as necessary

Clutch noisy
Damaged clutch pedal bushing
Loose part inside housing
Release bearing worn or dirty
Release fork or linkage sticks
Replace clutch pedal bushing
Repair as necessary
Replace release bearing
Repair as necessary
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
the clutch is brand new....its got maybe 10-12000 miles on it, its a CM stage 3....most of those miles are highway. i just rolled 100,000 the other night.
 

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well i was gonna say is your flywheel stepped right for the clutch but you say you drove already 10k miles , ill assume its ok. considering ive work on a few cars with disengaging problems , it was always a hydraulic problem, mc or slave, except once when the clutch disk itself was slipping really bad. try pumping your clutch pedal about 5 times before you change gears and if it still has disengaging problems then it could be a internal problem. you should have a shop check this out and fix immediately before you cause and transmission or worser problems
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i have had it at the dealer 3 times for this same problem...they seem to think it shifts fine....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
its also causing im sure my problem with notchy shifting.....
 

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When the dealership replaced my clutch under warranty at 15k, I could barely get it into 1st, and with the clutch pedal all the way to the floor, I would sit at a red light and it would creep away. I went back to the dealer and they said it was fine. The tech speddshifted the sh't out of it cramming it throught the gears. I still called shenannigans and they had me drive a beat to hell trade in that was on the lot and looked like it was in a war zone. It shifted like mine. I told them that doesn't mean sh't except you've got a used car with a fck'd up clutch. The service manager told me your new clutch is under warranty, if it fck's up, oh well. Also, they broke the shaft when removing it which took 11 days to get the part and get it back together instead of the 5 days.

I guess what I'm saying is, even though it was a new clutch, I could barely get into 1st, and it creeped in gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
the notchy shifting is why i replaced my tranny, cables, and clutch/flywheel to begin with


its only today that I happend to rev on accident all the way up, while in gear and noticed the car move a tad, just a tad
 

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Would there be a chance my clutch isnt disengaging all the way since it slips sometimes if I shift it too fast? Why would my pedal adjustment be off though from factory since this grinding issue I have has been going on since the previous owner and he had the stock clutch on it.
 

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I've had the exact same problem. My car has 90k on it.
It's hit and miss, but I find the problem usually happens when I'm creeping along in first gear. When I'm going slow in traffic and I put the clutch in all the way to stop, it sticks in gear. It's also a ***** to get the shifter into neutral. Sometimes, like you, if I rev the engine it starts to creep forward.
I guess that means the clutch is still engaged, so I thought the most obvious thing is, it must be the master or slave cylinder. If I rev it to 3-4k RPM I can pull the shifter out of gear easily. It even sticks in gear sometimes when I leave it in gear to park, which again makes me think it's the master or slave cylinder.
Should I just change both cylinders?
 

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Would this be the same fix for a clutch that is having trouble engaging. seems to happen a lil more often that i cant get it shift into reverse. it loosen up alil after a long drive but for short trips to the store i have trouble still getting into reverse even with pumping the pedal.
 
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