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Well guys I've pretty much parked the car until I can save up the money to get the clutch repaired. The problem is not so much the grabbing anymore, now the most severe problem is the fact that it will not come out of first or reverse gear. A full press of the pedal and full extension of the slave cylinder/throw of the clutch release lever does not disengage the pressure plate. Something is bent or broken in there, likely the springs that engage to the throwout bearing.

Time to order a clutch kit. Any suggestions on a good high-performance and long-lasting pressure plate/clutch disk?

-Pilotsteve
Clutchmasters Stage 1 is my 2 cents. It's popular, and for good reason. Will51 can get you hooked up on here.
 

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Clutchmasters Stage 1 is my 2 cents. It's popular, and for good reason. Will51 can get you hooked up on here.
+1 on contacting Will51.

Could also be a bad/failing TO bearing arm. Since it's inside the trans, no real way to see it until it's apart. It's come up a few times before recently (wish I could remember who it was...... maybe the thread sorta like, "1.5 years and 3 clutch kits later"??, you would know it when you see the title).

Does the trans shift fine with the engine off?? If so, then there is likely some issue with the clutch/clutch hydraulics.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
+1 on contacting Will51.

Does the trans shift fine with the engine off?? If so, then there is likely some issue with the clutch/clutch hydraulics.
Thanks, Charlie and SwizzleTib. I doubt it's the bearing arm... this just reeks of bent or broken pressure plate springs or jammed guide pins if we really think about it. What else would cause the binding on takeoff AND failure to release? I'll definitely look Will51 up and see what he can do.

I stopped by a local transmission shop and got a quote on the job. Estimated 5.1 hours of labor (~$420) and he's fine with me bringing my own clutch for him to put in. I will keep up with this post, and include pictures if possible of what this problem actually turns out to be. We will all learn something here because this is a very strange and unusual problem I've never experienced before.

I've had to do clutch jobs in the past on previous vehicles. My '86 Subaru XT started slipping at 214,000 miles, and the slave cylinder blew out in my old Ford Ranger at 168,000. Ford put the slave cylinder inside the transmission with that lame design, so it had to come off to be fixed and while we were at it we did the clutch... which ended up being in perfect condition and didn't even need to be changed at all. The clutch disk was only .002" thinner than the brand new one going in.

Doggone it... why did this happen? I drive my Tiburon like a Pepe... I don't think I've ever hit 4,500 RPM, never jerk or launch when accelerating or beat the transmission in any way. One thing I do while driving it that might be considered out of the norm is I put the tranny into neutral and let the car glide down long downhills. I save tons of fuel this way (I get over 28 MPG with my 2.7 V6) and have done this with every manual vehicle I've ever owned all my life. Ain't no way I'm hurting anything by doing that, so I just don't get it.

Theories, anyone?

-Pilotsteve
 

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It might also be a warped flywheel which might cause failure after a while on the pressure plate. My wifes 2.7 tib has a similar problem, since day one. I first thought I was the motor mounts since they were pretty worn out, but it wasn't. So my best bet is to replace the clutch as well as the flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Every day clutch, Ronan. One that'll last for the rest of the life of the car, I want one that's good for 1,000,000 miles. I don't romp on this car all. I want it to last for 25 years!

Ha ha just kidding! Obviously I drive the car the way that it's designed to be driven, but it's not like I'm overly hard on it.

-Pilotsteve
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I forgot to reply to an earlier question... Yes, when the engine is off the transmission can be smoothly shifted through all of the gears.

-Pilotsteve
 

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I am interested to find out what the issue turns out to be. In 2003 I had my clutch redone for the uneven grab of the flywheel as it was warped. My only symptom was the jerky takeoffs. At first they were very slight but by the end it was very noticeable. There was a massive TSB and they ended up replacing almost every component in there...I will have to look for the service record.

The symptom you describe sounds like bad hydraulics to me, however the broken/bent components on the flywheel could also be the culprit....please keep with this thread and let us know what you turn up with your mechanic. :iam:

Scott
 

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+1 on contacting Will51.

Could also be a bad/failing TO bearing arm. Since it's inside the trans, no real way to see it until it's apart. It's come up a few times before recently (wish I could remember who it was...... maybe the thread sorta like, "1.5 years and 3 clutch kits later"??, you would know it when you see the title).

Does the trans shift fine with the engine off?? If so, then there is likely some issue with the clutch/clutch hydraulics.
Found what I was looking for...... http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=247074&highlight=arm

There is one or more similar threads floating around as well.

PS, trans shifting fine "engine off" leads me to believe clutch hydraulics and/or bent TO bearing fork/arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Thanks for the useful tips guys. I'll be getting my tax returns before long and as soon as I do it's going to the garage to have the transmission pulled. Whatever the problem is, it will only be detected once the parts are on the table and we have a look inside.

Smokin, a warped flywheel should cause vibration, would it not? There is no vibration at all, and it doesn't explain the symptoms fully. Also, why would the car be fine for over 100,000 miles and then suddenly develop a warped flywheel? I have never been hard on it and certainly never got it hot from slipping the clutch or other nefarious deeds. I will keep closely in touch with the garage when it's on the lift and take lots of pictures when the transmission comes off. This boggles the mind, because as I've said before I drive my Tiburon like Grandpa Jones... How did it break? Hmmm.

-Pilotsteve
 

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The only time I would detect vibration was on takeoffs from a stop. If I remember correctly, near the end the clutch felt like the pedal wasn't fully dis-engaging, which I believe is what caused the flywheel to warp over time.

The dealership was forced to replace the full clutch assy. along with

I am still interested just to see what the components look like, & where the failure occured.

Scott
 

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Hey fellas I have a quandary that i need help solving. I came from driving a 2000 bmw 323i and i put 200k miles on it and never had ANY issues with the clutch. I am driving a 03 tib gt v6 5 spd 104k miles on it. this is my first time replacing a clutch on this car. the clutch is only grabbing and the very end before i let go, I have a feeling I am in need of a new clutch and all. My quesion to you is what brand of clutch and flywheel should I go with? what have you put on your cars and your opinion on them. I need something for daily driving and a little fun with a mostly stock tib.
 

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Hey fellas i am in need of a new clutch and flywheel. Im trying to decide what is the best route to go. Money is not a issue. I am planning to replace everying clutch, pressure plate, flywheel. Its a daily driver and I would like to have some fun with it from time to time. What was your route and opinion on it if you could. 2003 tib gt v6 104k.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Problem discovered and solved.

Well guys, I've finally got the answer. And it was an expensive one - after sitting in the driveway for a month I finally got my tax returns and therefore enough money to bring my grabby clutch to the local transmission shop. I asked the owner/mechanic to call me when he had the transmission off the car and I'd leave work to head over and see what the problem was with my own eyes (and so I could share with you guys). Well, earlier this week my phone rang at about 11:30 AM after he'd gotten the transaxle off and I went straight over.

Oh man...

First, let me start by asking a simple question... why did Hyundai reinvent the wheel with the design of the clutch in my car? A dual mass flywheel? Seriously?

Yup. Something broke inside the flywheel, causing the entire assembly to float forward & back a few thousandths of an inch, damaging the system and causing the binding/catching of the clutch.





Up close of the damaged and broken section of the flywheel:



As you can see (and what I swore up and down the whole time), I didn't burn up my clutch. Look - lots of meat left:





The pressure plate was fine as well, as was the release bearing. I was surprised to note how the bearing pulls on the spring fingers of the pressure plate instead of pushing like on every other clutch I've ever seen:



I was incensed about this whole thing. Why did Hyundai make such an incredibly complicated system for this car? I mean, really? The clutch/pressure plate/flywheel design has been around - and has functioned perfectly - since about 1910. A flywheel with the springs in it? WHY? Whatever the case, a new flywheel for this car was something like $995.00 not counting the clutch parts! No way - this had to be returned to sanity so we ordered an upgrade to a solid, one-piece flywheel and normal clutch that has the buffer springs on it (the way it should be!).

At the end of the day, it cost me $1,390.00 to have my Tiburon fixed. That included the upgraded clutch/flywheel system and 6 1/2 hours of labor to do the job. My car feels wonderful now, with a normal feeling clutch that engages exactly when and where it should. As the flywheel is about four pounds lighter than the ridiculous original design, I can feel a definite change in how my engine spools up too!

Thanks for all the help you guys have provided along this ride. I'm sure I'll be back with another question sometime... in fact I'll stick around this forum and help where I can. This seems to be a very good place, with a lot of guys who know what they're talking about. Thanks!

-Pilotsteve
 

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The Tib is not the only car with a pull style clutch, some Subaru's (WRX is one, mine is a push style) have it as well. There are others out there a well.

Dual mass flywheel is to provide some vibration damping as well as reduce shock loads to the trans.
Sometimes what seems like a good idea in theory does not work out in practice.

Glad it's finally working for you, sorry it cost a chunk of change.
 

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Sheared just like mine was!!!!

I had a feeling this was the problem, only difference was mine was horridly warped from the continued friction when stopped & in gear. I am sure it was a mess in there, mine had filings everywhere when I went to see it.

I am sorry for the loss of $, but I am happy you got a higher-quality assembly along with a lighter flywheel..in fact, I am a little jealous lol...enjoy!!!

Scott
 

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Don't know if I'm stirring up an old thread or not, but here I go. I am a mechanic full time and let me tell you about how stupid this clutch set up can be. It really is backwards when compared to a traditional clutch system, it pulls the release bearing instead of pushing or applying like a normal clutch.

On that note, I just went through 4, I repeat 4 clutch kits in search of correct parts and workmanship that was acceptable, one of which was an open box and parts were screwed anyways, so I guess 3. I own an 2003 Tuscani v6, 6 speed.

You literally have to install the clutch and pray that everything went together okay, otherwise as I soon came to realize, everything goes to Shi*.

First clutch went in, and I position the gearbox back into place, only to notice that when applying the clutch fork release lever, the bearing did not snap into place. attempt after attempt, finally the release bearing snapped on one of it's ears that hold it onto the clutch fork.

Lots of swearing and screaming "oh god, god why?" the gearbox was taken out once again. Upon very, and I mean very close inspection, I realized that where the snap ring is positioned, on the pressure plate, the little metal tabs holding it in place, on the retaining collar, so I've called it, were not correctly folded and allowed for some play, which in turn let the snap ring sag and be out of alignment with the release bearing. After I applied too much pressure the fork forced the bearing forward and the ear broke off.

So I then ordered another kit, and finally found one I was satisfied with. I applied maybe 5 lbs of pressure this time and the release bearing snapped into place, pretty much on its own.

These clutch kits were AMS Automotive (Rhinopac). I chose these kit based on availability and recommendation. Let's just say I will be avoiding these kits from here on in.

In the meantime of all this, I had prior engine/gearbox noise that I did not fully diagnose since it was hard to pinpoint. And this is where my post relates to yours.

I probably drove for about 1,500Kms before cluing in that there was a gearbox problem, I thought that my 3rd gear synchro was going bad because the clutch acted just as yours did. What I found was that the bearing can actually separate itself from its crimped outer casing after it has worn itself out. So even though everything feels normal some times, full release of the clutch no longer happens because in essence, the bearing doesn't have full pull on the pressure plate because it is bent/separated. I also started by replacing the slave cylinder but as I soon found out while driving to work, I pushed the clutch pedal in, and I heard a pop and the clutch pedal hit the floor with no return to it. The bearing had finally fallen completely apart.

Hope this helps anyone who runs into the thread again. All the best of luck with this piece of ......
 

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Hey i also have a 07 gt 5-speed manual. Just recently my clutch stopped working. Basicaly when i put it in a gear the car just revs as if it's in neutral. I have reasons to suspect that it's not my clutch thats broken but something else. Considering the fact that it happened in a instant and usually u get signs a clutch is going out like it popping out of gears and grinding. Does anyone know what else it could be?
 
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