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Hey i also have a 07 gt 5-speed manual. Just recently my clutch stopped working. Basicaly when i put it in a gear the car just revs as if it's in neutral. I have reasons to suspect that it's not my clutch thats broken but something else. Considering the fact that it happened in a instant and usually u get signs a clutch is going out like it popping out of gears and grinding. Does anyone know what else it could be?
How does the clutch pedal feel? Any resistence or floppy/won't come back up?

Jack up the front of the car, engine off, put it into gear (any gear), spin one wheel. What happens? (likely the other front wheel should spin opposite rotation).
Now, have someone hold the other wheel, spin the "free one", what happens?
 

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Re: Problem discovered and solved.

Well guys, I've finally got the answer. And it was an expensive one - after sitting in the driveway for a month I finally got my tax returns and therefore enough money to bring my grabby clutch to the local transmission shop. I asked the owner/mechanic to call me when he had the transmission off the car and I'd leave work to head over and see what the problem was with my own eyes (and so I could share with you guys). Well, earlier this week my phone rang at about 11:30 AM after he'd gotten the transaxle off and I went straight over.

Oh man...

First, let me start by asking a simple question... why did Hyundai reinvent the wheel with the design of the clutch in my car? A dual mass flywheel? Seriously?

Yup. Something broke inside the flywheel, causing the entire assembly to float forward & back a few thousandths of an inch, damaging the system and causing the binding/catching of the clutch.





Up close of the damaged and broken section of the flywheel:



As you can see (and what I swore up and down the whole time), I didn't burn up my clutch. Look - lots of meat left:





The pressure plate was fine as well, as was the release bearing. I was surprised to note how the bearing pulls on the spring fingers of the pressure plate instead of pushing like on every other clutch I've ever seen:



I was incensed about this whole thing. Why did Hyundai make such an incredibly complicated system for this car? I mean, really? The clutch/pressure plate/flywheel design has been around - and has functioned perfectly - since about 1910. A flywheel with the springs in it? WHY? Whatever the case, a new flywheel for this car was something like $995.00 not counting the clutch parts! No way - this had to be returned to sanity so we ordered an upgrade to a solid, one-piece flywheel and normal clutch that has the buffer springs on it (the way it should be!).

At the end of the day, it cost me $1,390.00 to have my Tiburon fixed. That included the upgraded clutch/flywheel system and 6 1/2 hours of labor to do the job. My car feels wonderful now, with a normal feeling clutch that engages exactly when and where it should. As the flywheel is about four pounds lighter than the ridiculous original design, I can feel a definite change in how my engine spools up too!

Thanks for all the help you guys have provided along this ride. I'm sure I'll be back with another question sometime... in fact I'll stick around this forum and help where I can. This seems to be a very good place, with a lot of guys who know what they're talking about. Thanks!

-Pilotsteve

Pilotsteve .... I would like the part numbers and manufactures for your entire clutch assembly and throw out bearing. please PM me with the info. As I am on my 3rd clutch and its time for a change at 138k on the odo... At 1500 a pop to fix this pos car im more than frustrated. yep the lifter tick on cold start drives me nuts too. I can't wait for this car to blow up ... Mazda speed 3 coming soon ....
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
Re: Problem discovered and solved.

Pilotsteve .... I would like the part numbers and manufactures for your entire clutch assembly and throw out bearing. please PM me with the info. As I am on my 3rd clutch and its time for a change at 138k on the odo... At 1500 a pop to fix this pos car im more than frustrated. yep the lifter tick on cold start drives me nuts too. I can't wait for this car to blow up ... Mazda speed 3 coming soon ....
I got the parts from the local auto parts store that deals in CarQuest parts. The kit is part number 05-058, cost $724.87, and comes with everything necessary to convert your Tiburon from the asinine dual-mass engineering failure to a normal, lightweight flywheel, clutch disk that has the dampener springs in it (like it should) and a nice meaty pressure plate. Comes with the bolts, release bearing, etc.



Regarding the lifter tick, that's perfectly normal and indeed, should be expected on such a tight-tolerance (and sweet) engine. Just let the engine idle on it's own until the oil pressure builds and bathes the cam/valves/moving parts in oil, and the parts expand a bit from the heat generated by friction and combustion gasses.. The parts will re-mate and the ticking will go away; when it does, you can safely drive your car.

-Pilotsteve
 

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Sir thank you very much I will use that exact kit as soon as I can figure out why all 4 of my O2 sensors are throwing low voltage codes. I hate this car.... 2006 tiburon se 138k forsale 4500 to the first buyer...lol
 

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Good evening friend, new member/first post. I'm sure this has been discussed before and I've tried searching the forum but I haven't found anyone with the same problem I'm having with my 2007 Tiburon GT. It's got the 2.7 liter V6 with five speed manual transmission. Mileage: almost 102,000. My problem started about two weeks ago and is very strange and somewhat unexplainable... the clutch grabs quite violently when starting off in first (and reverse) gear and often will not fully disengage when the clutch pedal is fully pressed to the floor.

Symptom one: It first happened while driving one day; I was in fifth gear and when I needed to slow down, I pressed the clutch only to find the transmission difficult to pull out of gear to downshift. I came out, but I had to pull much harder than usual.

Symptom 2: A few drives later, when accelerating away from full stop about 1/2 through the clutch's release it grabbed very firmly and violently and nearly stalled the car. "Huh?" I thought? Sure enough, the next time I took off from first gear I very gently let the clutch out... it began to engage normally at first but upon further (and thereby firmer) release of the pedal, it suddenly grabs very jerkingly as if I'd just dumped the pedal. It will do this when backing up in reverse as well, and this leads to...

Symptom 3: The clutch will not completely disengage at times even though the pedal is completely pressed to the floor. Only noted in first gear and reverse; the car shifts up and down through the gear range perfectly smoothly during normal driving but when I back into a parking spot and it's time to stop, I'll find the clutch won't disengage even though the pedal is pressed... luckily the brakes are stronger than the engine! Same thing in first... if I drive forward slowly in first, press the clutch the car should glide to a stop but not so - it's still in gear somewhat (clutch can be made to slip with the brakes engaged) until it "breaks free" and releases). I have learned to anticipate this and will either pump the pedal a few times and ease the transmission out of gear into neutral before coming to a full stop. Not enough weirdness yet? Here's...

Symptom 4: Now the pedal doesn't seem to come all the way back up during shifting. I noticed today that after I took off from a stop (with the usual clutch grab in first) that after I shifted into second, the pedal didn't quite "feel right" when I let it out... it felt "mushy" and sure enough, a moment later I could feel a bump in the pedal as it popped out to it's fully raised position. If I press the clutch when the car is stopped or in neutral, this doesn't happen. Only when torque is applied to the transmission will the pedal be sticky on it's release.

Here is what I know for a fact:

There is nothing wrong with the slave or master cylinder. No clutch fluid leaks, full pedal travel. A press of the clutch pedal fully extends the slave cylinder, moving the clutch arm on the transmission it's full range of travel.

The clutch does not slip. I can go up steep hills in fifth gear and floor the engine and there will be no slippage.

The clutch pedal begins to grab very close to the floor (maybe two inches up) and is fully released about an inch from the end of it's travel. There are no unusual noises or smells.

I did not burn up my clutch. I'm not a "noob" in the ways of manual transmissions; it's all I've driven in 23 years of driving. The problem is I just bought this wonderful Tiburon last September with 98,500 miles on it and have no idea how the previous owner treated it... they could've been out there popping wheelies with it for all I know!

If any of these signs and symptoms sound familiar to you or if you've seen this kind of nonsense before, please help me narrow it down. In my heart of hearts, I think I need a new clutch but it doesn't make sense mechanically to me... a bad clutch disk should slip and mine does not. I suspect either my pressure plate is shot and binding or the transmission shaft isn't letting the throwout bearing/clutch disk float back & forth as it should because of warpage/burrs/no lubrication). This could explain the clutch grabbing or getting stuck. Please help...

-Pilotsteve
Im having the same issue with my 2004 Tiburon Gt v6, 6 speed. I tried removing the spri
Good evening friend, new member/first post. I'm sure this has been discussed before and I've tried searching the forum but I haven't found anyone with the same problem I'm having with my 2007 Tiburon GT. It's got the 2.7 liter V6 with five speed manual transmission. Mileage: almost 102,000. My problem started about two weeks ago and is very strange and somewhat unexplainable... the clutch grabs quite violently when starting off in first (and reverse) gear and often will not fully disengage when the clutch pedal is fully pressed to the floor.

Symptom one: It first happened while driving one day; I was in fifth gear and when I needed to slow down, I pressed the clutch only to find the transmission difficult to pull out of gear to downshift. I came out, but I had to pull much harder than usual.

Symptom 2: A few drives later, when accelerating away from full stop about 1/2 through the clutch's release it grabbed very firmly and violently and nearly stalled the car. "Huh?" I thought? Sure enough, the next time I took off from first gear I very gently let the clutch out... it began to engage normally at first but upon further (and thereby firmer) release of the pedal, it suddenly grabs very jerkingly as if I'd just dumped the pedal. It will do this when backing up in reverse as well, and this leads to...

Symptom 3: The clutch will not completely disengage at times even though the pedal is completely pressed to the floor. Only noted in first gear and reverse; the car shifts up and down through the gear range perfectly smoothly during normal driving but when I back into a parking spot and it's time to stop, I'll find the clutch won't disengage even though the pedal is pressed... luckily the brakes are stronger than the engine! Same thing in first... if I drive forward slowly in first, press the clutch the car should glide to a stop but not so - it's still in gear somewhat (clutch can be made to slip with the brakes engaged) until it "breaks free" and releases). I have learned to anticipate this and will either pump the pedal a few times and ease the transmission out of gear into neutral before coming to a full stop. Not enough weirdness yet? Here's...

Symptom 4: Now the pedal doesn't seem to come all the way back up during shifting. I noticed today that after I took off from a stop (with the usual clutch grab in first) that after I shifted into second, the pedal didn't quite "feel right" when I let it out... it felt "mushy" and sure enough, a moment later I could feel a bump in the pedal as it popped out to it's fully raised position. If I press the clutch when the car is stopped or in neutral, this doesn't happen. Only when torque is applied to the transmission will the pedal be sticky on it's release.

Here is what I know for a fact:

There is nothing wrong with the slave or master cylinder. No clutch fluid leaks, full pedal travel. A press of the clutch pedal fully extends the slave cylinder, moving the clutch arm on the transmission it's full range of travel.

The clutch does not slip. I can go up steep hills in fifth gear and floor the engine and there will be no slippage.

The clutch pedal begins to grab very close to the floor (maybe two inches up) and is fully released about an inch from the end of it's travel. There are no unusual noises or smells.

I did not burn up my clutch. I'm not a "noob" in the ways of manual transmissions; it's all I've driven in 23 years of driving. The problem is I just bought this wonderful Tiburon last September with 98,500 miles on it and have no idea how the previous owner treated it... they could've been out there popping wheelies with it for all I know!

If any of these signs and symptoms sound familiar to you or if you've seen this kind of nonsense before, please help me narrow it down. In my heart of hearts, I think I need a new clutch but it doesn't make sense mechanically to me... a bad clutch disk should slip and mine does not. I suspect either my pressure plate is shot and binding or the transmission shaft isn't letting the throwout bearing/clutch disk float back & forth as it should because of warpage/burrs/no lubrication). This could explain the clutch grabbing or getting stuck. Please help...
Well guys I've pretty much parked the car until I can save up the money to get the clutch repaired. The problem is not so much the grabbing anymore, now the most severe problem is the fact that it will not come out of first or reverse gear. A full press of the pedal and full extension of the slave cylinder/throw of the clutch release lever does not disengage the pressure plate. Something is bent or broken in there, likely the springs that engage to the throwout bearing.

Time to order a clutch kit. Any suggestions on a good high-performance and long-lasting pressure plate/clutch disk?

-Pilotsteve
I also am experiencing the same problem with my 2004 Tiburon gt v6, 6 speed. I had the spring removed from the slave clyinder, and bled the line and nothing changed. It also gets stuck in reverse and first gear. I have to turn the engine off to get it out of gear. I assume its the clutch, but it doesn't drag when I shift. I am noticing that some of the other gears are getting hard to shift into but its still only grabbing first gear and reverse. I bought a new clutch for it, which I'm having installed this week. I'll let you know what I find out from the machanic after he looks at it. Might save you some time and money.
 
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