EDIT: I no longer have the Quest kit. I removed it as it was too stiff for my taste on my daily driver. If you want help installing it I will still try to help, but please be specific and include pictures. Please post questions on the boards (suspension wheel forum or this post) so EVERYONE can learn from your question, and so I don't have to keep answering the same question over and over. If you want, PM me with a link to your post and I will go reply to it.
This is actually a pretty easy install, just time consuming. Here I have the Quest suspension, but most of this should apply to any set of full replacement coilovers (TEIN, etc), or just swapping out struts (I4 to GT, whatever). Most of these pictures are of the rears, but the fronts are functionally the same for what we're doing.
Begin by removing the wheel.
Here's the suspension with the wheel off:
(Please note, that is not a great place for a jack stand, I have yet to find a place on the rear of the car besides where you are supposed to put your jack. The spot pictures is where the 'frame' follows, but if I lower my jack with a stand there the body start creeking. I put the stand there purely for safety, not to hold the weight of the car.)
Pointing out everything that needs to be removed:
Remove the clip from the brake line by putting a screwdriver underneath the edge of the clip and tab it away from the strut with a hammer, gently. It is a Jesus clip, so be careful.
Remove the 10mm from the ABS sensor line and move it aside.
Remove the 14mm from the sway bar and pull it out. It is best to jack both side of the car up equally to keep tension off the sway bar. If you only jack one side up, the sway bar will have lots of pressure on it (that's the whole point of it). You will need a 14mm open end wrench, too. Place the open end on the back side of the nut right where the rubber boot is. Push the rubber boot towards the middle of the car to get it out of the way. There is a 14mm hex there. It is hard to get the wrench on it, but I assure you, it is there. You will see once you get it off.
You can remove the two main 17mm bolts now if you like. I did. You may need someone to help you out here in a second...
Here are the three strut insulator bolts coming into the inside. This is the rear. You need to remove the plastic piece where the seat belt comes out of and remove the seat belt pulley (one bolt, cake). The front is far more obvious, so I won't include a picture.
Remove the three 12mm bolts. If you already removed the two 17mm hub bracket bolts, your whole strut assembly will fall out now. It is handy to have someone there to grab it for you, or undo the bolts while you hold it so it doesn't fall down and do something bad, like cut your ABS sensor line.
If you didn't remove the hub bracket bolts, the suspension will fall down and put a lot of pressure (weight of the whole suspension). It might be a good idea to put something underneath the hub to hold it up while you can take the hub bracket bolts off.
Empty wheel well after strut removal:
Here is the whole strut assembly out of the car:
Now it is time to reassemble the new coilover system. For my application I am reusing the strut insulator piece. If you have pillow mounts, the pillow mounts replace the stock strut insulator.
The spring is still loaded, so you need spring compressors so you can take the strut bolt off the top without the strut insulator flying off at high velocity. I picked up a pair at Autozone for about $35.
Spring being compressed. In these pictures the strut insulator is already remove. Compress the spring until the spring is loose in the strut assembly, then undo the strut bolt in the center of the strut insulator.
Then remove the spring, set it aside, and undo the spring compressors
You'll have to adjust the coilovers so the spring perch is low to reassemble them (if it is too high you wont be able to get the top piece on due to spring load). Put the strut bolt back on and you have your coilovers ready to install. Installation is the same as removing the stock assembly. Three 12mm bolts up top, the two 17mm at the bottom, sway bar bolt, ABS, brake line clip. (See above pictures)
Here is the assembly installed.
Again.
Adjusting:
The spring perch needs to be raised now because we had to assemble it with almost no load.
The wrenches you'll need to adjust the perch collar rings:
Measuring the spring preload. The shorter the spring, the more preload it has, or the higher springrate and stiffer the ride. Please note than in this picture I had 9". This is before I started adjusting. 9" is WAY too short! You'll want at least 10", probably closer to 11".
Again.
There is also a damper adjustment on the bottom. For this set, clockwise is tighter, and it clicks in so each side can be matched. With the lowest damper setting (all the way ccw), the car will bounce. With it all the way up, it rides like it has a solid suspension. The damper should at a minimum be turned up enough to keep the car from bouncing, old Cadillac style.
I've found that the loosest 2 settings are way too soft to use. Two clicks CW from all way undone (CCW until it stops clicking) seems to be about the same damping as my stock 2003 GT shocks. Before you install, you may want to adjust all four shocks to feel like your stock shocks. You can find this by pulling the first shock, disassembling it (see above), and pushing on it. Now do the same with your aftermarket damper. Adjust until it feels about the same. With it all the way loose (CCW) it will probably be much easier than your stock shock. With it all the way up it will be nearly impossible for you to push it by hand. I suggest starting so it is about the same as your stock shock. Err on the stiffer side, because you will need to keep the new aftermarket springs in check with a stiffer setting.
Stuff I left out:
I didn't get to specific into reassembling the new coilovers, because this will vary depending on the set. This particular set uses the stock strut insulator. It comes with pieces that mate up perfectly. Some sets come with pillow mounts that replace the stock strut insulator and allow the top of the strut to be slid along a channel either towards or away from the car which changes camber. I do not have that, so all I can do is suggest trying to keep camber at zero.
This is actually a pretty easy install, just time consuming. Here I have the Quest suspension, but most of this should apply to any set of full replacement coilovers (TEIN, etc), or just swapping out struts (I4 to GT, whatever). Most of these pictures are of the rears, but the fronts are functionally the same for what we're doing.
Begin by removing the wheel.
Here's the suspension with the wheel off:
(Please note, that is not a great place for a jack stand, I have yet to find a place on the rear of the car besides where you are supposed to put your jack. The spot pictures is where the 'frame' follows, but if I lower my jack with a stand there the body start creeking. I put the stand there purely for safety, not to hold the weight of the car.)
Pointing out everything that needs to be removed:
Remove the clip from the brake line by putting a screwdriver underneath the edge of the clip and tab it away from the strut with a hammer, gently. It is a Jesus clip, so be careful.
Remove the 10mm from the ABS sensor line and move it aside.
Remove the 14mm from the sway bar and pull it out. It is best to jack both side of the car up equally to keep tension off the sway bar. If you only jack one side up, the sway bar will have lots of pressure on it (that's the whole point of it). You will need a 14mm open end wrench, too. Place the open end on the back side of the nut right where the rubber boot is. Push the rubber boot towards the middle of the car to get it out of the way. There is a 14mm hex there. It is hard to get the wrench on it, but I assure you, it is there. You will see once you get it off.
You can remove the two main 17mm bolts now if you like. I did. You may need someone to help you out here in a second...
Here are the three strut insulator bolts coming into the inside. This is the rear. You need to remove the plastic piece where the seat belt comes out of and remove the seat belt pulley (one bolt, cake). The front is far more obvious, so I won't include a picture.
Remove the three 12mm bolts. If you already removed the two 17mm hub bracket bolts, your whole strut assembly will fall out now. It is handy to have someone there to grab it for you, or undo the bolts while you hold it so it doesn't fall down and do something bad, like cut your ABS sensor line.
If you didn't remove the hub bracket bolts, the suspension will fall down and put a lot of pressure (weight of the whole suspension). It might be a good idea to put something underneath the hub to hold it up while you can take the hub bracket bolts off.
Empty wheel well after strut removal:
Here is the whole strut assembly out of the car:
Now it is time to reassemble the new coilover system. For my application I am reusing the strut insulator piece. If you have pillow mounts, the pillow mounts replace the stock strut insulator.
The spring is still loaded, so you need spring compressors so you can take the strut bolt off the top without the strut insulator flying off at high velocity. I picked up a pair at Autozone for about $35.
Spring being compressed. In these pictures the strut insulator is already remove. Compress the spring until the spring is loose in the strut assembly, then undo the strut bolt in the center of the strut insulator.
Then remove the spring, set it aside, and undo the spring compressors
You'll have to adjust the coilovers so the spring perch is low to reassemble them (if it is too high you wont be able to get the top piece on due to spring load). Put the strut bolt back on and you have your coilovers ready to install. Installation is the same as removing the stock assembly. Three 12mm bolts up top, the two 17mm at the bottom, sway bar bolt, ABS, brake line clip. (See above pictures)
Here is the assembly installed.
Again.
Adjusting:
The spring perch needs to be raised now because we had to assemble it with almost no load.
The wrenches you'll need to adjust the perch collar rings:
Measuring the spring preload. The shorter the spring, the more preload it has, or the higher springrate and stiffer the ride. Please note than in this picture I had 9". This is before I started adjusting. 9" is WAY too short! You'll want at least 10", probably closer to 11".
Again.
There is also a damper adjustment on the bottom. For this set, clockwise is tighter, and it clicks in so each side can be matched. With the lowest damper setting (all the way ccw), the car will bounce. With it all the way up, it rides like it has a solid suspension. The damper should at a minimum be turned up enough to keep the car from bouncing, old Cadillac style.
I've found that the loosest 2 settings are way too soft to use. Two clicks CW from all way undone (CCW until it stops clicking) seems to be about the same damping as my stock 2003 GT shocks. Before you install, you may want to adjust all four shocks to feel like your stock shocks. You can find this by pulling the first shock, disassembling it (see above), and pushing on it. Now do the same with your aftermarket damper. Adjust until it feels about the same. With it all the way loose (CCW) it will probably be much easier than your stock shock. With it all the way up it will be nearly impossible for you to push it by hand. I suggest starting so it is about the same as your stock shock. Err on the stiffer side, because you will need to keep the new aftermarket springs in check with a stiffer setting.
Stuff I left out:
I didn't get to specific into reassembling the new coilovers, because this will vary depending on the set. This particular set uses the stock strut insulator. It comes with pieces that mate up perfectly. Some sets come with pillow mounts that replace the stock strut insulator and allow the top of the strut to be slid along a channel either towards or away from the car which changes camber. I do not have that, so all I can do is suggest trying to keep camber at zero.