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Discussion Starter #21
@Faulcun couldnt I just get a light probe and touch to the low beam plug to confirm if I’m getting power through the assembly?
 

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Ok I understand a bit better now. So yes, we want to test wires now but we do NOT want to have the ballasts connected or anything.

This would be best done with a volt meter and not a test light. You really need to see proper battery voltages here.

Disconnect the black and red wires from that black connecter in picture 3.

Connect the factory harness to the plug on the headlight housing. Command the low beams on.

Place your black lead on the negative battery terminal, touch your red lead to each pin in the black connector and figure out which is power (supposed to be the red one). If you have power, it should show battery voltage within .5v (compare by placing the red lead on the battery positive terminal)

If you dont have power on either pin, we'll sort that problem out after.

Next, place your red lead on the battery positive terminal, and touch the black lead to each pin and look for it to show battery voltage again... this is checking your ground circuit.

Let me know what you come up with.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Ok I understand a bit better now. So yes, we want to test wires now but we do NOT want to have the ballasts connected or anything.

This would be best done with a volt meter and not a test light. You really need to see proper battery voltages here.

Disconnect the black and red wires from that black connecter in picture 3.

Connect the factory harness to the plug on the headlight housing. Command the low beams on.

Place your black lead on the negative battery terminal, touch your red lead to each pin in the black connector and figure out which is power (supposed to be the red one). If you have power, it should show battery voltage within .5v (compare by placing the red lead on the battery positive terminal)

If you dont have power on either pin, we'll sort that problem out after.

Next, place your red lead on the battery positive terminal, and touch the black lead to each pin and look for it to show battery voltage again... this is checking your ground circuit.

Let me know what you come up with.
What would I set this to?
 

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Your Black lead goes in the COM port.

Your Red lead goes in the middle port.

Set the dial on 20 in the upper left corner.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Your Black lead goes in the COM port.

Your Red lead goes in the middle port.

Set the dial on 20 in the upper left corner.
Ok so I was able to test tonight. I set it to 20 in the top left and had black lead in com and red lead in the middle. I touched the black lead to negative and at first got nothing when touching each pin with the red lead. I then put the red lead on the positive and touched the black lead to each pin and got a reading. I pulled the assembly out and tried looking at the pins and took a small flathead screwdriver and tried bending the pins a little. I was thinking maybe the connection wasn’t tight. I then tried it a second time. Black lead to negative and red to the pins and I got one side to read 14.06. Touching the other pin usually got nothing but occasionally I would get a spike when moving around. Same when testing the red lead to positive and touching the ground to each pin I got one side to read 14.06. I plugged everything back in and the low beam still won’t work. I know the ballast is good as I took the passenger headlamp assembly and hooked it up to the driver side and was able to get the low beam to light. I also tested the bulb by swapping it into the passenger assembly and getting it to work as well. At this point I’m not sure what’s wrong.
 

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Ok so I was able to test tonight. I set it to 20 in the top left and had black lead in com and red lead in the middle. I touched the black lead to negative and at first got nothing when touching each pin with the red lead. I then put the red lead on the positive and touched the black lead to each pin and got a reading. I pulled the assembly out and tried looking at the pins and took a small flathead screwdriver and tried bending the pins a little. I was thinking maybe the connection wasn’t tight. I then tried it a second time. Black lead to negative and red to the pins and I got one side to read 14.06. Touching the other pin usually got nothing but occasionally I would get a spike when moving around. Same when testing the red lead to positive and touching the ground to each pin I got one side to read 14.06. I plugged everything back in and the low beam still won’t work. I know the ballast is good as I took the passenger headlamp assembly and hooked it up to the driver side and was able to get the low beam to light. I also tested the bulb by swapping it into the passenger assembly and getting it to work as well. At this point I’m not sure what’s wrong.

Ok we're making progress. So what we need to do is make sure we have good connection while we're testing. When you see voltage sometimes, and sometimes not, this could be caused by two things. Either not making good connection with your lead, OR there is a bad connection in the wires inside the assembly like you are suspecting. We need to test for both of those things.

First of all, when your black lead is on battery negative, which color wire is showing battery voltage? That is your power wire.

What i like to do in this case is use a short piece of wire to stick into the pin that will stay and use an alligator clip to hold the other end, or just use your fingers to hold the lead on the wire. Make sure your other lead is secured to which ever battery post you are running the test from.

Double check your reading, make sure you are seeing the correct voltage. With your free hand, wiggle the wires a bit in different ways and look for the voltage to disappear.

Repeat this test on both pins and lets see if we can identify which wire might have the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Ok we're making progress. So what we need to do is make sure we have good connection while we're testing. When you see voltage sometimes, and sometimes not, this could be caused by two things. Either not making good connection with your lead, OR there is a bad connection in the wires inside the assembly like you are suspecting. We need to test for both of those things.

First of all, when your black lead is on battery negative, which color wire is showing battery voltage? That is your power wire.

What i like to do in this case is use a short piece of wire to stick into the pin that will stay and use an alligator clip to hold the other end, or just use your fingers to hold the lead on the wire. Make sure your other lead is secured to which ever battery post you are running the test from.

Double check your reading, make sure you are seeing the correct voltage. With your free hand, wiggle the wires a bit in different ways and look for the voltage to disappear.

Repeat this test on both pins and lets see if we can identify which wire might have the problem.
I retested everything today. The power wire is the black wire and the ground is the red wire. This just has to do with the way SFR hooked it up. I got a reading of around 13.90 with the power wire and around 13.46 with the ground wire. The ground wire seemed to bounce around a little bit but I was still able to get a reading. Am I supposed to get a reading when the black lead is on negative terminal and red is touching ground wire of low beam and vice versa with red wire? I get a small reading when I do.
 

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The power wire is the black wire and the ground is the red wire. This just has to do with the way SFR hooked it up
Thats perfectly ok. Not how I personally would have done it, but thats ok as long as we know whats what.

I got a reading of around 13.90 with the power wire and around 13.46 with the ground wire.
Great! thats exactly what we want to see.

Am I supposed to get a reading when the black lead is on negative terminal and red is touching ground wire of low beam and vice versa with red wire?
Nope. Your volt meter detects flowing power, among other things. If you go from positive to positive, or negative to negative, you should see extremely little to nothing. If you do, then there is a serious problem somewhere or the test is being performed incorrectly.

What about the wiggle test? Did you get any voltages to drop off while wiggling the harness?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thats perfectly ok. Not how I personally would have done it, but thats ok as long as we know whats what.



Great! thats exactly what we want to see.



Nope. Your volt meter detects flowing power, among other things. If you go from positive to positive, or negative to negative, you should see extremely little to nothing. If you do, then there is a serious problem somewhere or the test is being performed incorrectly.

What about the wiggle test? Did you get any voltages to drop off while wiggling the harness?
It was very difficult to hold a lead on the battery and one on part of the pin and then wiggle. I guess if it was a wire problem it’s the ground wire as that was the only one that gave me any real fluctuation. Although even if it was loose why is the bulb not lighting at all?
 

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It was very difficult to hold a lead on the battery and one on part of the pin and then wiggle. I guess if it was a wire problem it’s the ground wire as that was the only one that gave me any real fluctuation. Although even if it was loose why is the bulb not lighting at all?
HIDs have to have constant supply of consistent voltage. If there is intermittent supply, then they more than likely will not turn on.

You can secure your lead to a battery post any number of ways. If you dont have alligator clips, you can do it by lightly applying vice grips, electrical tape, or even a hose clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
HIDs have to have constant supply of consistent voltage. If there is intermittent supply, then they more than likely will not turn on.

You can secure your lead to a battery post any number of ways. If you dont have alligator clips, you can do it by lightly applying vice grips, electrical tape, or even a hose clamp.
So I still don’t have this worked out yet. To test the hid bulb would I do the same thing with the leads on the battery terminal and I touch one wire at a time? If correct what reading should I see?
 

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So I still don’t have this worked out yet. To test the hid bulb would I do the same thing with the leads on the battery terminal and I touch one wire at a time? If correct what reading should I see?
If you swapped bulbs to the other side and they worked, then the bulb isnt the problem.

If you swapped balasts to the other side and it worked, then thats not the problem.

If you swapped headlight assembly to that side and it worked, then its not your vehicle harness.

I believe the issue here is going to be in your signal wires to the balast in your headlamp. Something has started to work loose making intermittent connection. If you follow my instructions exactly, you should be able to find the issue. Im only a few hours from you in Georgia. If youd like to swing by one day id be happy to look at it for you
 

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Discussion Starter #33
If you swapped bulbs to the other side and they worked, then the bulb isnt the problem.

If you swapped balasts to the other side and it worked, then thats not the problem.

If you swapped headlight assembly to that side and it worked, then its not your vehicle harness.

I believe the issue here is going to be in your signal wires to the balast in your headlamp. Something has started to work loose making intermittent connection. If you follow my instructions exactly, you should be able to find the issue. Im only a few hours from you in Georgia. If youd like to swing by one day id be happy to look at it for you
I need to update my info. I unfortunately don’t live in Georgia anymore. I know nothing with wiring or electrical work. There is no way to fix this without baking it and opening the headlight correct? If that’s the case I’ll just buy new ones prewired.
 

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No, you dont need to open the headlight. Im pretty sure they didnt either.

Take a look at the plug socket in the headlight. there should be a way to remove it. If you get it loose, the rest of the harness should come with it. At this point I would redo all the connections.

What state are you in now?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
No, you dont need to open the headlight. Im pretty sure they didnt either.

Take a look at the plug socket in the headlight. there should be a way to remove it. If you get it loose, the rest of the harness should come with it. At this point I would redo all the connections.

What state are you in now?
I live in CT now. I always thought they opened them up but maybe your right. I think I assumed that because of the sealant around the tabs but maybe that’s normal.
EA26819F-C3DA-46A3-829D-62FBD256C671.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Ok I got the plug out. None of the connections appear loose and the only one that they tampered with is with the splice connectors. Do I need to redo all three connection or should I just get new splice connectors and redo it? Is there a way to test which of the three is the problem?
B0828168-A8B4-4EF1-84BF-B4FD28AC2DEE.jpeg
 

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Those red splice connectors are trash if they are what i think they are. pop the little top open and see if it looks like this
135992


If so, whoever used those at that company needs to be slapped. Twice. Once the slapping is complete, cut those off and redo the connections with these

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...DyI7hTNUZxZX3OMDsxsaAmHzEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Watch this video on how to do this correctly. You CAN use a lighter, you just need to be gentle with the heat. Dont keep it in one place. Keep moving over it evenly, working your way from the center outward. Also, fix your wire order. Put red to red, and the black to yellow. Once you've completed the wire repair, test your lights again. Would also be a good idea to check the other headlight assembly for that crap too.

 

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Ok I got the plug out. None of the connections appear loose and the only one that they tampered with is with the splice connectors. Do I need to redo all three connection or should I just get new splice connectors and redo it? Is there a way to test which of the three is the problem?
View attachment 135990
Ewwww.....which end of CT? I am NE NJ (about where the NY thruway hits the NJ border...check zip 07456). Couple beers, we can do this, good excuse to meet up.
 
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Discussion Starter #39
@Faulcun ya I believe it’s the same. I’ll replace them with the butt connectors.
F4E032ED-A35C-4402-BEE7-FDCB051F6DE5.jpeg


Ewwww.....which end of CT? I am NE NJ (about where the NY thruway hits the NJ border...check zip 07456). Couple beers, we can do this, good excuse to meet up.
Great idea. Ya you are about an 1 hour 45 min away. So not too bad. After I replace the connectors if it still doesn’t work then I may have to make the commute.
 

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@Faulcun ya I believe it’s the same. I’ll replace them with the butt connectors.
View attachment 135993



Great idea. Ya you are about an 1 hour 45 min away. So not too bad. After I replace the connectors if it still doesn’t work then I may have to make the commute.
Oh yeah.... thats terrible. Hey to be honest, Youd be money ahead to just meet up with charlie, that way you dont have to spend money on extra tools. You'll spend more on the tools than you will on gas.

You've done an excellent job so far! But if the connectors dont work, its gonna take somebody with the experience to isolate the problem. Theres only so much we can do to help over the internet. And wiring issues are the hardest sometimes to communicate about.
 
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